Toyota Sienna: Isolating Rear AC lines?

This problem is very much noticed on many Toyota vehicles.After some years of usage the Rear Side A/C lines gets rusted and gets cracked.Replacing the lines is only option to get complete cooling.The cost to replace is A/C line assembly is approx $1500 including labor charges.
But there is no guarantee that this same problem will not reoccur after some years.

Mostly the problem is noticed on the lines going back from the front unit to the rear unit.


THE LINES TO THE REAR HAVE BEEN AN ISSUE EVEN THROUGH THE Present latest MODEL YEAR.

It is a corrosion issue and the muffler on this year has a tendency to rubber on the low side line and wear a hole in it. The fitting at the rear cooler unit is an issue also. The front can not be isolated by any conventional means. In theory you can just run the front which many repair techs will recommend.And that is correct. This would require someone that can weld aluminum efficiently. Up on the lines where they branch off from the front would have to be cut and crimped then welded over at the seam that was crimped. There would be no side affect it would just have to be charged with a little less Freon.So the line dont gets over-pressurized by ample of Freon.

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2002 Toyota Sienna: Wipers and Passenger side Power window stopped working?

Wipers started a bit then stopped working and Passenger side window stopped working at same time.
But all other windows work properly.

This types of problem many a times makes the car owner to think,that problem is same for both the faults.
But its not the same.

It can be faulty fuse or issue with Motor.
To remove the fuse out needle nose are fine. The fuse holder is under the hood fuse box.
The pivot on the wiper motor for the rear is known to freeze. There is also a circuit breaker built into the rear motor that can get burned. Pull the motor and check the shaft. The 25 amp wiper fuse is the only fuse for the rear wiper.
The front window is not related to wiper not operating.The windows work off of the 30 amp power fuse and feeds all the windows not just the right front window. If the other windows work it is not a fuse issue and more then likely is a bad window motor. The fuse box has a lock tab to depress and the lid pops off.

So for both the cases the issue is most probably the faulty motor.The Wiper operating motor and power window motor.

Getting this parts checked and inspecting before directly replacing will help.
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1999 Lexus LX470: DTC C1252 and C1256 Code Detected?

C1252 Code indicates Faulty Hydro-Boost pump and Code C1256 points towards accumulator pressure low.

These do not normally fail. Based on CODE description however it does sound like the accumulator has failed. When the pump runs continuous it means that is not building pressure so that it shuts off. The pump should cycle on to pressure up the system then cycle back off. It's a long shot but you could possibly have the technician flush the brake system by using the active testing scan tool to operate the pump and push fluid out all four wheels cylinders. If it will not consistently bleed hydraulic pressure while active testing with the tech view scan tool or similar scan tool then you're looking at a bad accumulator pump assembly.

Unfortunately your options are limited here. This code sets whenever electric pump in the Hydro system runs longer than it is designed to or supposed to. Its advisable to get this parts tested/ inspected with proper Professional  mechanic so the correct diagnosis can be done to confirm the problem.The parts cost is  heavy in such cases.The cost can go approx $4000 for replacing whole ABS cannister, computer and motors.
You might consider trying to find a used one otherwise you're at the mercy of Lexus and other high dollar pump assembly. It comes with the new accumulator computer and pump motor. Due to the complexity of this component none of the parts are available separate and they're not re-buildable.

This details will help you to understand the problem.So you follow the correct path in getting the parts checked, before getting this problem solved.

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2008 Toyota Tacoma: ABS causes Brake pedal fade?

Soft or Spongy Brake Pedal when ABS not getting Activated.
Many Toyota Vehicle owners and other car owners having ABS system in the car have complained and noticed this problem.

Basically what happens in this problem,that Normal braking is perfect on Smooth pavement and brick roads.But on rough roads such as wash board type roads the Brake pedal gets soft and Driver has to apply complete/ more pressure to stop the vehicle.

On basis to Toyota Tacoma Truck vehicle models i will say that,These trucks are so light in the rear when on a bumpy road and applying the brakes the ABS will activate prematurely. Are you feeling the abs actuator motor come in and pulse the pedal. If this is the case there is not much you can do about it short of putting weight in the bed or disable the abs to see if this is what is going on.

Other Option is that ,You are experiencing premature ABS activation and your hearing the actuator pump activate and you can feel the brake pedal flutter.

But if this is not the case then i will say ,
The ABS is going to activate on any car that is on wash board type roads due to the tire being in a non contact situation with the road even if for a split second and if the brakes are being applied that one or more wheels will have a tendency to stop or slow faster then the rest of the wheels and the computer interprets this as sliding or skidding and will active the abs system. I get this complaint a fair amount when customers life on old brick roads. If there are no codes triggering the computer and the normal braking action is good with no pedal fade there is not much your going to be able to do with the wash board type problem. The only other thing that I have seen is if the rear shocks get bouncy which if they are the Bilstein shocks it will aggravate the problem even more on wash board type roads.


TO understand about how the ABS causes pedal fade.OR Why the ABS causes Soft Pedal.
Read the further details with more explanation:-----


When any of the wheel speed sensors detect a rotational deviation or different from the others it causes the actuator assembly to activate the pump motor which generates brake fluid pressure to the other wheels causing the wheels to brake which in turn causes a slight pedal fade for pulsation in the actual brake pedal itself. If you are not feeling this pulsation occurring or any buzzing from the actuator motor when this situation is occurring then it is not related to the ABS or actuator motor activation. Bumpy roads or washboard type roads should have no effect on the brake pedal travel unless the ABS is prematurely coming on. If you're feeling a soft or spongy pedal and the ABS is not activating then you have a hydraulic pressure problem. This possibly could be something intermittent in the master cylinder. However to correctly diagnose the problem you or your mechanic has to measure pedal pressure or distance traveled or fade. The bottom line is you need to determine whether not the ABS system is activating when you're noticing this problem.

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Toyota Camry: Premature ABS Actuation?

The Brake Feeling like it grabs then grinds and this problem goes on repeating.

In this cases first inspect the master cylinder and confirm that its not the problem.
Generally getting premature ABS actuation. Normally this is caused by one of the wheel speed sensor speed rings. These rings are attached to each drive axle or the backside of each wheel bearing. Typically what happens is the little grooves you get cracked or get damaged due to rust or corrosion. This causes an erratic signal to be sent to the ABS computer which thinks that you're sliding on ice and prematurely activates the ABS system. The only way to detect this is to monitor all four wheel speed sensors on an oscilloscope and watch the pattern for anomalies. If there are no codes it's unlikely anything in the ABS control unit or the wheel speed sensors themselves.

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2006 Toyota Sienna: How to replace Rear Spark Plugs?

Replacing spark plugs on toyota sienna.The Rear Spark plugs are behind the Intake plenum.Getting hands there is bit difficult.
You have two options here. The first one is to just remove the throttle body from the plastic intake manifold. This will give you a little more access to reach in and under the intake manifold itself. It still is tight but can be done. In order to remove the intake manifold to replace the spark plugs the wiper motor panel assembly and upper cowling has to be removed before the intake manifold will come off.
The plastic manifold itself has three brackets on the backside by the firewall which are very tight tolerances to unbolt then you have the obvious bolts along the top of the manifold that hold the manifold to the lower aluminum housing.

The throttle body comes off in two sections the first one is held on by either three or 4 -10 mm bolts then the second section is held on with about four to five 12 mm bolts. Given the age typically these rubber gaskets can be reused. The intake manifold is slightly different but basically the same when it comes to the throttle body configuration depending on whether you have the 3.3 L or the 3.5 L engine. In 2006 depending on your production you could have either engine.

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2008 Toyota Highlander: Symptoms after Jumper Cables Crossed?

This is not Advisable.The Jumper cable crossed will cause lots of shorting issues.Tracing the exact problem takes lots of time in some cases.
Basically in some cases,you will see that vehicle will drive only in idle but will give no response on throttle.

The first thing that gets affected by this is,it normally just blows fuses. The large 120 amp ALT fuse.
If there is no throttle response more than likely you also popped the 10 amp or possibly 15 amp ETCS fuse look in the fuse box under the hood and locate this fuse. This is the main power feed for the drive by wire throttle motor. If there's no throttle response most of time of the time you will find that this fuse is blown.

Typically when these are jumped backwards like this it only blows fuses it rarely does any damage to engine control computer's.. Replace it see how it drives then check for any other components that are not operating and inspect the rest of the fuses.
If you notice any other problem after that,then in most cases the check engine light will come ON steady.Whenever the check engine light illuminates by default the vehicle skid control light comes on also.

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2003 Toyota Camry: Spongy hard brake pedal?

Spongy Hard Bare pedal while brakes are applied or while Stopping at signals.

This types of problem are indication of inspecting brake related parts and complete brake System.

The Parts like  front brakes,pad kit, shim kit, disc brakes,brake rotors,calipers, etc.

But if you dont notice any lack of braking efficiency or high speed pulsation while driving then,
I will say, You can make just about any brake pedal feel a little spongy if you continue to pump or work the brake pedal.

You probably could get by with just doing a rear caliper service which would include freeing up the caliper slides and pins. This is the weakest point on four-wheel disc brakes on the particular car that you have. This will cause the slightly spongy brake pedal.

As far as replacing the rotors and pads that probably does not need to be done. And calipers rarely ever fail. Most of these brake repair places and local mechanics get paid on commission of the parts therefore they sell a lot of calipers unnecessarily.May be they suggest all the customers who visit this garage places.

Even Though if you get "severe corrosion of the rotors" and "glazed pads" i will say its  not a problem.A proper servicing and inspection to this parts is required.

Normally severe corrosion will cause brake pedal pulsation especially at highway speeds. There's always going to be a certain amount of glazing or glazed pads. Normally I don't recommend replacing rotors unless you're looking at 25% by surface area damaged or gone due to corrosion. The outer edges up to about 1/4 inch in from the outer diameter of the rotor will always corrode in the rust belt due to the salt used on the road. This is actually fairly normal. The biggest problem that we find is usually related to the rear caliper pins and slide freezing up due to the salt water getting in and affecting the calipers ability to retract correctly and work smoothly which can as I mentioned before cause a slight spongy pedal feeling.

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1998 Toyota Camry: Heater Controls Not Working?

When the interior fan is turned ON, it doesn't blow in the center console vents or the floor.
This heater control problems needs basic troubleshooting,to confirm the problem.

As far as the heater controls the only thing that goes wrong is the cable either pops off or the mechanism up by the driver side accelerator pedal area goes bad.

Check the mechanism on the left side of the heater control box which is located behind the carpeting area just up and to the right from the accelerator pedal. As you move the position lever if you have the control cable style you will see the mechanism move as the cable moves. If you have the electric motor actuator style controls see if the actuator makes any noise or tries to move the controls. If you have the cable style system the cable is known to pop off or the mechanism basically comes off track.
If its Actuator Style and Actuator is not functioning right,then Actuator motor has to be replaced.

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1998 Toyota Camry: Gear Shift Illumination bulb is out?

On this model there are manual controls and slides.
In this problem first check the fuse or the problem can be rheostat. BUT


If the rest of the illumination bulbs in the instrument panel are working normally then it is not a fuse. All of the illumination bulbs including the dials and the glovebox are all controlled on the rheostat illumination circuit. In order to remove the illumination bulb under the shifter mechanism you need to remove the back half of the consul box area. This is done by opening the armrest remove the small piece of carpeting/cloth that covers the two bolts that hold the back half down. Then use a screwdriver or plastic prybar and pop the black plastic trim that surrounds the shifter mechanism and holds the cigarette lighter or auxiliary plug by prying up on the edges and it will release the pop clips and work your way around towards the front and pull it out. This will expose two Phillips screws on the front side of the back half of the consul box. This then will allow you to remove the rear section. The light bulb socket can be accessed by using your fingers to manipulate the light socket by turning it left and pulling down to gain access to the bulb. It is a tight fit but that's the procedure to do this task.

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2009 Lexus ES350: Shifter illumination bulb not Working?

If the Shifter Illumination bulb is not working,then it has to be replace.Automatic Shifter Light Bulb Replacement is necessary.

The cneter console has to be removed. See the diagram shown below for the bolt locations. The rear vent assembly just pops off. Some times you can get the bulb out once you pop the trim up from around the shifter assembly.




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2001 Toyota 4Runner: Vehicle started skipping Badly?

The Vehicle started Skipping and Check engine light comes ON.
In getting the computer  scanned,most of time Vehicle misfire cores are retrieved.
The Error code P0303 and P1135 are retrieved in some cases.

First try basics to clear the code.
That is remove the negative battery terminal and clear the codes do they come back right away.

In many other cases the Drivers have mentioned that vehicle misfire when engine is idling it sputters and has no take off power.

On all that basis i suggest you few helpful troubleshooting tips and procedure to be tried.


The first thing you can try is to swap one of the coil packs with another cylinder to see if the misfire follows. Usually when a coil pack fails you will get two misfire codes because one coil pack controls two cylinders. If you still get the P0303 then the misfire is isolated to cylinder number three which is the middle bank on the passenger side. At this point you would need to do a compression test to confirm that you have at least 150 psi in each cylinder.
The next thing to test and check is the injector. You could possibly swap the injectors from cylinder three to cylinder one to see if the misfire follows, if you do not have the test equipment to do a balance test on the injectors or flow test.


NOW,Regarding the code 1135 this refers to the air fuel ratio sensor heater which is only used in the California specification vehicle in 2001. There is a heater element built into the air fuel ratio sensor. The air fuel ratio sensor is not the same as an oxygen sensor they are a lot more expensive and will not interchange.

The P1135 is a low current malfunction on the AFR heater circuit of bank 1 sensor 1. Ideally you need to test the voltage at the computer Pin HTAF it should read 12 volts. With in a minute or two the voltage should drop to 0 to 2 volts when the computer turns the ground circuit on to energize the circuit and heat up the sensor. Then it will toggle between 5 to 10 volts depending on the heater circuit demand. If the voltage is not 12 volts then you need to check the voltage at the sensor. If the computer never drops the voltage then the driver is bad in the computer. In most of cases the AFR sensor is bad but in some rare cases I have seen them take out the computer also. If you decide to change the air fuel ratio sensor yourself if the sensor cracks loose then gets very tight as if it is frozen into the pipe do not force it. Use some brake fluid and squirt brake fluid on the threads at the base of the sensor and on the pipe. Let it soak for little bit then work the sensor back and forth and it will come right out. This is a little secret trick I use, yes I did say brake fluid.

The error code P1135 has nothing to do with the skipping problem.

If you have a scan tool or the ability to monitor the air fuel ratio sensor voltage it will actually be working. Without the air fuel ratio sensor heater working as the code indicates it just takes longer for the air fuel ratio sensor to come online to send the computer into closed loop operations. If the air fuel ratio sensor was not working at all you also would have an additional code showing a range or performance problem. This normally will be followed by a lean condition code or a rich condition code depending on how the sensor was biased.

The AFR sensor itself is not too difficult to replace. Normally you can buy a good DENSO air fuel ratio sensor for about $170 in the aftermarket. Make sure you use a DENSO and not a Bosch sensor. If you want a factory sensor go to  http://www.metrotoyotapartsnow.com/  for wholesale prices. The aftermarket DENSO is the exact same sensor that Toyota uses.

This all details will help you to trace/ inspect and confirm the problem.
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2002 Toyota RAV4: Started Skipping and Stuck in gears?

The Toyota Started Skipping badly and Transmission gets stuck up in gears.

This problem is noticed by many other Toyota vehicle users.

In most of this cases steady Check engine light will come on DASH.

This is a common problem. The ECU has been changed and they extended the warranty period on them to cover this before it destroys the transmission. The transmissions are on a 3 month back order if it gets damaged.

Please Note:--It is not an extended warranty policy. It is a factory warranty extension. It has to be done at any Toyota dealer.
If the Check engine light is not coming on,then also ask the Toyota dealership to look into the faulty.
It is true that they can not get codes unless the light comes on but they can do the repair ie the computer replacement based on the numbers on the computer and the VIN range.

This details will help.
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Toyota Avalon: Toyota XM satelite radio interface kit Connection?

satellite install new Toyota XM satellite radio interface kit the radio has to be pulled out.
Basically the installing instructions comes with the kit.

To install this interface kit specifically the radio has to be pulled out there's no way to reach the back of the radio. The control panel with the vents and the heater control buttons is simply held in with five pop clips and two claw type clips along the outer edges by the vents and side and the bottom. On most Toyota car models vent and control panel that covers the radio is behind the two pieces to the left and to the right or whether the centerpiece covers the dash panel pieces to the left and the right you will find out as soon as you pop it free you may have to remove those two panels by this ignition lock cylinder and over by the glovebox also.

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2010 Toyota Camry: Disable Passenger Side AirBag?

Disable Passenger side AIRBAG.
There is no way to disable the passenger side airbag in this particular vehicle. Once the weight limit has been met in the seat this seat system and airbag automatically activate. If you are to try and disable the weight limit switches or anything in the airbag system it will shut the entire airbag system down.
There is one possible option but it would require a fair amount of work. If you could make some type of support that held you up off of the seat frame assembly this would keep the weight activation signal from occurring and the airbag would not activate. It would show (off) on the instrument panel.
But Airbag is safety option.Its always advisable to keep this safety activated,instead of disabling it.

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2006 Toyota Sequoia: Replace FOG Light Bulb?

The foglights in the bumper are pretty inaccessible.But there is a procedure,following it will help to complete this task.

In order to change this bulb you need to gain access to the back of the assembly. This is done by removing the plastic under shielding held in by 10 mm screws and possibly a couple of clips. This will pull down then you can easily get to the back of the assembly. The light assembly itself has a couple of different styles one has a rubber boot that covers the back of the assembly that has to be popped off and the other simply has a socket that the bulb pushes into once the socket is turned and removed. The boot style has a metal spring clip that holds the bulb into the assembly.

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Lexus ES300: Replace AC Compressor?

The Air conditioner stopped working.Inspection and testing shows Compressor is short.

Replacing the compressor is not very hard.But a proper knowledgeable person can do it.

Provided the filter dryer did not disintegrate or break apart anything that was in the compressor should have been caught in the filter/dryer. Replacing the compressor and dryer should be all that you need. The expansion valve at this point should not be needed. Make sure that you replace any O-rings with new ones that are designed for this system. Make sure that you add a few ounces of refrigeration oil into the dryer and into the compressor. Lubricates all O-rings with refrigeration oil before putting them on. If this is a used compressor a lot of times it oil has leaked out of it.
Just get the O rings wet with the oil before assembling.Put the O-ring on then put a few drops on the O-ring all the way around. The O-rings have to be wet with oil or they will not slide in and could potentially tear. When adding be couple of ounces of refrigeration oil to the components just pour it into either of the openings usually about 1 to 2 ounces in each component will suffice.

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1994 Toyota Camry: Coolant Leak?

Coolant leaking has multiple possibilities.
First inspect the radiator.The pipes/tubes from which coolant passes, Also confirm that there is no coolant getting mix with engine oil or transmission oil.
It can be worn out or faulty Radiator cap.Due to which pressure gets released.And coolant leaking from radiator cap.
Also make sure that there are no leaks getting to the ground anywhere? Is the carpeting getting wet with coolant in side the vehicle?
Properly check this basic possibilities.In most of cases this possibilities cause coolant leak.

If all options have been exhausted to find an external leak from any of the hoses or radiator when 13 up to 15 pounds of pressure were put on the system this only leaves two possible options.
The first one being under the intake manifold is a coolant pipe that is known to leak from the seals. Over time the coolant leaks out but is never enough to push out over and come down onto the ground it usually evaporates creating a crust build up under the intake.
The second possible option is that the head gaskets are starting to leak slowly and the coolant is being burned and sent out the exhaust. This is a small amount and generally you will never see any excessive steam from the tailpipe. Eventually it will start to leak to the point where it will start to overheat. Given the age and probable high mileage unfortunately you're probably looking at leaking head gaskets.
This is not an oil mixing with water type of head gasket leak typically this engine leaks between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket.

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