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Showing posts with label camry. Show all posts
Showing posts with label camry. Show all posts

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Toyota Camry: Premature ABS Actuation?

The Brake Feeling like it grabs then grinds and this problem goes on repeating.

In this cases first inspect the master cylinder and confirm that its not the problem.
Generally getting premature ABS actuation. Normally this is caused by one of the wheel speed sensor speed rings. These rings are attached to each drive axle or the backside of each wheel bearing. Typically what happens is the little grooves you get cracked or get damaged due to rust or corrosion. This causes an erratic signal to be sent to the ABS computer which thinks that you're sliding on ice and prematurely activates the ABS system. The only way to detect this is to monitor all four wheel speed sensors on an oscilloscope and watch the pattern for anomalies. If there are no codes it's unlikely anything in the ABS control unit or the wheel speed sensors themselves.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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2003 Toyota Camry: Spongy hard brake pedal?

Spongy Hard Bare pedal while brakes are applied or while Stopping at signals.

This types of problem are indication of inspecting brake related parts and complete brake System.

The Parts like  front brakes,pad kit, shim kit, disc brakes,brake rotors,calipers, etc.

But if you dont notice any lack of braking efficiency or high speed pulsation while driving then,
I will say, You can make just about any brake pedal feel a little spongy if you continue to pump or work the brake pedal.

You probably could get by with just doing a rear caliper service which would include freeing up the caliper slides and pins. This is the weakest point on four-wheel disc brakes on the particular car that you have. This will cause the slightly spongy brake pedal.

As far as replacing the rotors and pads that probably does not need to be done. And calipers rarely ever fail. Most of these brake repair places and local mechanics get paid on commission of the parts therefore they sell a lot of calipers unnecessarily.May be they suggest all the customers who visit this garage places.

Even Though if you get "severe corrosion of the rotors" and "glazed pads" i will say its  not a problem.A proper servicing and inspection to this parts is required.

Normally severe corrosion will cause brake pedal pulsation especially at highway speeds. There's always going to be a certain amount of glazing or glazed pads. Normally I don't recommend replacing rotors unless you're looking at 25% by surface area damaged or gone due to corrosion. The outer edges up to about 1/4 inch in from the outer diameter of the rotor will always corrode in the rust belt due to the salt used on the road. This is actually fairly normal. The biggest problem that we find is usually related to the rear caliper pins and slide freezing up due to the salt water getting in and affecting the calipers ability to retract correctly and work smoothly which can as I mentioned before cause a slight spongy pedal feeling.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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1998 Toyota Camry: Heater Controls Not Working?

When the interior fan is turned ON, it doesn't blow in the center console vents or the floor.
This heater control problems needs basic troubleshooting,to confirm the problem.

As far as the heater controls the only thing that goes wrong is the cable either pops off or the mechanism up by the driver side accelerator pedal area goes bad.

Check the mechanism on the left side of the heater control box which is located behind the carpeting area just up and to the right from the accelerator pedal. As you move the position lever if you have the control cable style you will see the mechanism move as the cable moves. If you have the electric motor actuator style controls see if the actuator makes any noise or tries to move the controls. If you have the cable style system the cable is known to pop off or the mechanism basically comes off track.
If its Actuator Style and Actuator is not functioning right,then Actuator motor has to be replaced.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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1998 Toyota Camry: Gear Shift Illumination bulb is out?

On this model there are manual controls and slides.
In this problem first check the fuse or the problem can be rheostat. BUT


If the rest of the illumination bulbs in the instrument panel are working normally then it is not a fuse. All of the illumination bulbs including the dials and the glovebox are all controlled on the rheostat illumination circuit. In order to remove the illumination bulb under the shifter mechanism you need to remove the back half of the consul box area. This is done by opening the armrest remove the small piece of carpeting/cloth that covers the two bolts that hold the back half down. Then use a screwdriver or plastic prybar and pop the black plastic trim that surrounds the shifter mechanism and holds the cigarette lighter or auxiliary plug by prying up on the edges and it will release the pop clips and work your way around towards the front and pull it out. This will expose two Phillips screws on the front side of the back half of the consul box. This then will allow you to remove the rear section. The light bulb socket can be accessed by using your fingers to manipulate the light socket by turning it left and pulling down to gain access to the bulb. It is a tight fit but that's the procedure to do this task.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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Saturday, April 28, 2012

2010 Toyota Camry: Disable Passenger Side AirBag?

Disable Passenger side AIRBAG.
There is no way to disable the passenger side airbag in this particular vehicle. Once the weight limit has been met in the seat this seat system and airbag automatically activate. If you are to try and disable the weight limit switches or anything in the airbag system it will shut the entire airbag system down.
There is one possible option but it would require a fair amount of work. If you could make some type of support that held you up off of the seat frame assembly this would keep the weight activation signal from occurring and the airbag would not activate. It would show (off) on the instrument panel.
But Airbag is safety option.Its always advisable to keep this safety activated,instead of disabling it.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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1994 Toyota Camry: Coolant Leak?

Coolant leaking has multiple possibilities.
First inspect the radiator.The pipes/tubes from which coolant passes, Also confirm that there is no coolant getting mix with engine oil or transmission oil.
It can be worn out or faulty Radiator cap.Due to which pressure gets released.And coolant leaking from radiator cap.
Also make sure that there are no leaks getting to the ground anywhere? Is the carpeting getting wet with coolant in side the vehicle?
Properly check this basic possibilities.In most of cases this possibilities cause coolant leak.

If all options have been exhausted to find an external leak from any of the hoses or radiator when 13 up to 15 pounds of pressure were put on the system this only leaves two possible options.
The first one being under the intake manifold is a coolant pipe that is known to leak from the seals. Over time the coolant leaks out but is never enough to push out over and come down onto the ground it usually evaporates creating a crust build up under the intake.
The second possible option is that the head gaskets are starting to leak slowly and the coolant is being burned and sent out the exhaust. This is a small amount and generally you will never see any excessive steam from the tailpipe. Eventually it will start to leak to the point where it will start to overheat. Given the age and probable high mileage unfortunately you're probably looking at leaking head gaskets.
This is not an oil mixing with water type of head gasket leak typically this engine leaks between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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2003 Toyota Camry: Headlights Work Intermittently?

Headlights works fine someday and then will not work sometimes.
In this type of cases,the weakest link is the headlight bulbs. If they are partially burned they could come and go intermittently. The next weakest link would be the headlight relay. It is uncommon to see the headlight switch itself fail on this vehicle. I checked and there are no technical service bulletins addressing any common failure issues in the headlight system. My recommendation would be to try two brand-new bulbs, high beam or low being depending on which one you're dealing with. Also try swapping the relay.Beside the headlight relay,there are same configuration relay.Interchange that replay with head light relay and see if that helps.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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Friday, April 27, 2012

1997 Toyota Camry: Erratic Idle and Intermittent engine stalling?

Intermittant stalling when Vehicle stops at Signal/red light.
This problems are very much noticed on many car brands.

There are few weak parts that can cause the problems.


Idler control valve,EGR valve,spark plugs and wires, ect.
Please go for Original Toyota or branded parts instead of cheap / local non branded parts.They dont match original parts quality and dont last long or many a times they dont get detected by cars computer system.So same problem is noticed even after you replace the parts.

The two most common issues for this problem are idle air control motor or IAC and the EGR valve. Both of these are very common failures that affect engine idle.
There is one more item that will cause erratic and intermittent engine stalling. This is the EFI water temperature sensor. It is very difficult to catch these when they are erratic or act up. Usually one of the follow-up signs is that the vehicle will crank for a slightly longer than normal. When it starts back up.
What happens is sporadically the EFI water temperature sensor will Spike a high-voltage around 2 to 3 V and the computer sees this as a an extremely cold engine and runs the injection time very rich for a few split seconds and will stall the engine. A lot of times this will not set a malfunction code for the engine control computer EFI water temp sensor.
The actual sensor cost is about $60. In these types of cases the labor to try and diagnose or catch this failure will out weigh the actual cost of just replacing with a new Toyota sensor. If it doesn't work you're only out $60. One of the other possibilities is the ignition coils. I have seen failures on the igniter side of the ignition coil on the IGT or IGF circuit and it will cause the engine quit running momentarily. This however 90% of the times will set a P 1300 series code.

This details will help you.
Thanks.


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1992 Toyota Camry: A/C Control light Flashing and A/C not Blowing Cold?

No Cold AC and AC button Flashes.

The Air conditioner is not blowing cold air and the AC control light flashes.
The ac light flashes because the compressor is not spinning and the rotation sensor is not detecting or matching the engine RPM. This can be caused by anything from a bad clutch coil on the compressor to a broken wire going to the magnetic clutch or even a bad sensor in the compressor. Start with checking the belt tension then check the connector at the compressor.

For the Connector i will say,there is only one connector to the compressor and it has the clutch wire and the sensor. This is located to the front side of the compressor.

1992 car models basically have Manually operated Air Conditioner Systems.

Because A/C will not run unless you turn it on by pressing the ON button, and switching from heat to cool in other words it don"t come on by temperture changes.

So on that basis i will provide the wiring details.It can be loose or shorted or make be unplugged wire to the connector or it can be faulty AC control relay too.
Read the details mentioned below:----

At the connector at the compressor pin number 4 is a black wire with t a white tracer. This is the power feed from the MG/CLT or magnetic clutch relay int he fuse box under the hood on the drivers side. MAke sure the relay clicks on and then B/W wire is getting 12 volts. Then try to swap it with another relay with the same configuration.This will help to confirm ,if relay is the issue.

Try this Test Procedure.
Disconnect the connector and check for 12 volts at the black/white wire with the relay still in place. You should get 12  volts from b/w wire and light should not blink .Now connect connector back up and see if light A/C button light blinks or not.
If yes then Relay is the issue.

This details will help you.
Thanks.


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2006 Toyota Camry: Noisy Control Arms?

The Control Arms Makes Noise.This is noticed due to dry rot and cracking of the bushings.

Before replacing the Arm directly,its advisable to inspect ,Is the arm broken loose and banging against the cradle or is it just cracked?

If its Broken,then replacing the control arm is only option.
But if its just cracked then there is still good life for control Arm.

Unfortunately this is a common problem that occurs due to the Vehicle age and road conditions. The rubber cracks and eventually breaks loose. Some places offer a bushing replacement but most have to have the arm replaced. Their estimate is way to high. The flat rate book for labor time quotes like 7 hours. It wants you to pull the engine cradle done to replace the arms. Normal time to do this is 5 hours max for both sides. The cradle does not have to be removed. Make sure the labor time is in order. It will still not affect if the rubber bushings is broken or separated more then 50% of the way around. If they are just cracked save your money and keep driving there is allot of life left yet. This is not a safety issue. Even if the rubber breaks all the way through it will just make a banging noise over bumps. It would still be safe to drive even then.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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2006 Toyota Camry: Noisy Control Arms?

The Control Arms Makes Noise.This is noticed due to dry rot and cracking of the bushings.

Before replacing the Arm directly,its advisable to inspect ,Is the arm broken loose and banging against the cradle or is it just cracked?

If its Broken,then replacing the control arm is only option.
But if its just cracked then there is still good life for control Arm.

Unfortunately this is a common problem that occurs due to the Vehicle age and road conditions. The rubber cracks and eventually breaks loose. Some places offer a bushing replacement but most have to have the arm replaced. Their estimate is way to high. The flat rate book for labor time quotes like 7 hours. It wants you to pull the engine cradle done to replace the arms. Normal time to do this is 5 hours max for both sides. The cradle does not have to be removed. Make sure the labor time is in order. It will still not affect if the rubber bushings is broken or separated more then 50% of the way around. If they are just cracked save your money and keep driving there is allot of life left yet. This is not a safety issue. Even if the rubber breaks all the way through it will just make a banging noise over bumps. It would still be safe to drive even then.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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