Sunday, October 6, 2013

User Manual for Casio Illuminator Watches?

Casio Illumination manual

Here is a direct link to the ONLINE USER'S MANUAL for the CASIO ILLUMINATOR module number 2329:http://ftp.casio.co.jp/pub/world_manual/wat/en/qw2329.pdf

You may need ADOBE READER installed on your computer to read PDF documents, although many computers already have this type of utility pre-installed.

You can download this free at WWW.ADOBE.COM if necessary. Click on the DOWNLOAD ADOBE READER button on right side of the ADOBE home page when you get there, then follow the onscreen instructions to install the software on your computer.

Citroen, Saxo Keyfob Resyncing

Remote Key fob Re-syncing procedure .
The details works for following cars:---

CITROEN / Saxo 1.4i / 02/1996 - 09/2003 / Squareback/hatchback limousine

PROBLEM: Immobilizer fob has stopped working.

In these cases the engine will not turn ON.

If it is an immobilizer problem, then a reset or a new key, will have to be brought from dealer, or someone with the Citroen scan tool

You would have to reprogram the immobilizer or a get a new key (and program it).

Its very simple:--

Remote alarm/central locking 
System operation  
 Pressing remote control lock button locks the vehicle and
activates the alarm.
 Pressing remote control unlock button unlocks the vehicle
and deactivates the alarm.


 Key battery replaced.
 If buttons operated repeatedly while vehicle out of range and system
becomes inoperative.

How  to program
 Unlock the vehicle using the key.
 Within 30 seconds: Press key lock button twice .
 Synchronization procedure complete.
 Confirm synchronization has been successful by locking and unlocking
 Repeat above procedure to synchronize any remaining keys.

Programming  is required
 Key added or replaced.
 System malfunction.
 Replacement keys can only be programmed using diagnostic equipment.

Battery replacement  Immobilizer  
 Key added or replaced.
 System malfunction.
 Immobilizer can only be programmed using diagnostic equipment.

These details will help.

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I hear Rattling coming from the driver's side wheel area

What To Check When Rattling noise is heard while driving at low speed and Bumps

Problem noticed on  99 Chrysler 300M that is almost at 200K miles on its original engine and transmission. The engine is in great shape, still purrs like a kitten and barely burns any oil (1/2 quart every 6 months of heavy driving).
Now for few months, I've been hearing and feeling a rattling coming from the driver's side wheel area, mostly while driving at lower speeds or going over bumps.

Got It to the mechanic............
I thought was a suspension issue, turned out to be looseness of my transmission's output/stub shaft, according to a mechanic. The wheel bearings were replaced and supposedly, everything else checks out. The Garage mechanic also said the long CV axle looks like it's in good shape.

The Possible way to fix the issue is to replace or rebuild the transmission, since it will have to come out completely.

Is there any other alternative to repair the problem or to save the repair cost?

As per my inspection the looseness and rattling feels like it is at where the CV axle connects to the output shaft. The output shaft itself does not feel like it is loose inside the gearbox.
I almost suspect the inner connection of my CV axle is worn or the threads of the output shaft may very well be worn.
Is there any kind of coating that can be added to restore the output shafts threads, without having to replace the entire output shaft assembly?  PLEASE SUGGEST SOME EASY SOLUTION?


As per problem described you mentioned that the noise was coming from the left side of the car, is that also the side that mechanic at car garage said there is a problem with the shaft on?

Basic Stub Shaft Assembly:
The left stub shaft runs from the differential on the right side of the trans, though the bellhousing and out to the left side. There is a support bearing at the left side of the case with a large snap ring that holds it in. This shaft takes less than an hour to replace if there is in fact something wrong with it. To check the shaft splines and the bearing you can pop the CV shaft off of it and inspect it.

The right side stub shaft is the one that everyone seems to believe is loose on these and it's a matter of knowing what is normal. Due to the way the trans is designed it's normal to have up and down movement if you grab the inner CV joint and move it.
The excessive movement can be there or its the actual system with that much free movement.This isn't to say you aren't seeing excessive movement, but some movement there is normal and it will be more than you feel on the left side.

To confirm the problem you can  pop the CV shaft off and have a look at the splines. If the splines are ok and there is truly enough movement then the trans would have to come out and the differential disassembled to replace the shaft. As per my knowledge replacing or rebuilding the entire transmission isn't necessary.

If there was excessive movement there then you should see the axle seal leaking and I would expect some vibration on acceleration. If you're feeling and hearing a rattle over bumps I highly doubt it is related to the stub shaft and CV shaft.

One more important thing,get second opinion from another car garage mechanic who is bit professional.
The stub shaft on the left side wouldn't require removal of the transmission at all to replace it. The shop either isn't experienced with this or they weren't wanting to work on your car anymore!They are ignoring the problem.

Try this:----
If you're able to slide under the car with a flashlight  take a closer look at where the shaft goes into the trans. You'll see that the bearing goes into a bore in the trans, the bearing is roughly three inches in diameter. Around the outside of the bore is a snap ring, this is what holds the entire stub shaft in.

To remove the shaft:
First remove the tire and then the strut clevis bolts. This will let the top of the steering knuckle swing outward enough to get the CV shaft off of the stub shaft.

Knock the shaft off of the stub shaft and then the snap ring can be removed.

Then only you can pull the stub shaft out. There is a special tool that can be used with a slide hammer than grabs the shaft by the retainer ring groove on the end. Due to age and corrosion I've seen some of these stick pretty bad my personal experience and sometimes you have to use a hammer and punch or air hammer to get the shaft out. Another method if replacing the shaft would be to weld a large slide hammer directly to the stub shaft if it gets to that point.

If it comes apart correctly then the entire shaft and bearing can be replaced in less than an hour.

How To remove Transaxle?

Click here for Transaxle Removal & Installation

Click here for Automatic Transaxle Replacement

Click here for Cv-joints Overhaul/removal/installation

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Truck Window Will Not Roll Up

Power Window Will Not Go Up

The automatic window on our  truck rolled down but will not roll up

Power Window not moving up has many possible issues:---

First make sure that the fuses and relays are all OK. Next to check whether other windows move up-down. If they do then the problem is with that particular window only.
Possibilities are:---

1) Jammed Motor.
A jammed motor can sometimes be enticed to work by holding the window switch in the up mode while slamming the door. 

2) A Dirty Window control switch.
To confirm this you will have to take the door panel off and check to see what is binding the lift mechanism. Many such motors have a thermal cutout when they cant close the window they tend to overheat and then disconnect - cutout. It may be that it is opened.

Also try cleaning the switch connections with some CONTACT cleaner or tuner cleaner from Radio shack or somewhere and spray INTO the switches while moving the switches.

3) Pinched or Cut Wires.
It is also possible that one of the control wires fell off .Or wires got pinched and cut while open -close movement of door.

Try these:---

With the switch pressed for the window to go up, can you hear the window motor running?

If no then,it sounds like a switch problem, the powers and grounds run through the master switch to the other door switches, if one of the switches goes bad your concern will happen, the rear door switch is the same as the passenger door switch, so you can swap out the switch and put the window up.the trim covers just pull up and they will pop off, If by chance the switch is not the problem, take a rubber mallet and smack the bottom of the door about center while pressing the switch for the window to go up, sometimes the window motor will get stuck in a position and it needs to be jarred loose.

On such problems the most common failure for the drivers window is the main window switch. Try lifting the window switch really hard and see if the window goes up. If it does then you most likely need a master window switch. 

If the window does not go up by pressing the window switch up hard, then the door panel would need to be removed and voltage would need to be checked at the power window motor, then also inspect window regulator to see if the cable is not broken or guide is damaged.

If the window switch is already replaced and still the power window will not roll up then,its suggested verify power to the switch , use a multi meter if you have one. The master switch gets power at the LB/BK wire. If there is power check for a good ground at the black wire. You can overlay the ground , run a wire to good ground and stick it into the master switch at the black wire spot. Like back probing the ground side of the switch. You may have a broken ground wire in the harness where it flexes in the door jam.

Ok What if Driver side Window Is Working But Passenger Side Window Not Working?

First try and check this:

Will it not go up at all? Or just automatically? Does it make any noise when you hit the up switch.

If no movement and no noise is heard then,get in the truck, key on, engine off and close the doors. Now turn on the interior lights and see if the lights slightly dim when you hit the up button. If so you have a bad window motor in that door and will need to replace it.

This will help.

Climate control will not turn OFF

Buick LeSabre Climate control will not turn OFF

When the blower motor will not shut off, even with the ignition off and/or only works on the highest setting, this is most commonly a sign of a faulty Blower Motor Control Module. It's located under the hood, towards the rear of the engine compartment, mounted to the blower motor housing (see image below). Inspect the wire harness and electrical connector for any loose, broken, melted or damaged wires. If the visual inspection checks ok, suspect a faulty Module.

Buick blower motor module

Other possibility can be faulty relay:---

If the relay is your problem with the fan staying on it is located here:

HVAC module for buick

The two on the right are the cooling fan relays

The wiring diagram the fan motors is below

1995 buick fan motor wiring diagram

For the manual system pull the blower motor relay and see if that turns the fan off. If it does replace that one. The relay is about $13 list but it will be less at a parts store.

If you have levers it is manual if you have a display you set to a temperature and the system keeps that temp it is automatic.

Here is the correct diagram for a manual system

Climate control fan wiring diagram

There is a relay on your system that will shut off the blower but that is not the problem. The component that failed is the blower power module which is located here next to the blower motor on the firewall:

blower motor module

buick blower motor controlling module

It is $124 at Advance auto parts

This is the speed controller for the blower motor. First check the 10A red fuse (#11) in the underdash relay panel on the passenger side for the blower motor that is located here.

If fuse 11 is good or if you replace it and the fan continues to malfunction you will have to replace the blower power module.

buick relay diagram

This details will help.

Temperature gauge will go up to hot

Vehicles Temperature needle gets to hot mark very quickly

First thing here is " Do you really notice engine overheating?'
Or its just the temperature needle getting to hot and engine is normal to run.

On that case the temperature unit needs to be inspected.

The most common possibilities for such  problems are:---

  • Low coolant.Check the level of coolant.
  • Electric cooling fan not working.Faulty fan motor.Or fan motor wire cut in between.
  • A bad radiator fan switch.
  • Thermostat not opening.
  • A worn out waterpump.
  • Fan belt is broken.
  • Radiator clogged and needs cleaning or replacement.

May be its worn out thermostat or issue with water pump.

If the engine is really getting overheat so quickly then the problem lies with faulty headgasket.

Or clog in radiator itself.

The first thing to do is to make sure the colling fan runs when the engine temp is above 222 F with the a/c off. The engine control module (ECM) controls the relay for the fan. When the temp exceeds 222 f then the fan is commanded on until the engine temp decrease below 212 f. If the fan is not coming on then that would be a problem to check into first. The ECM also commands the engine cooling fan on when the a/c is on and vehicle speed is below 70 mph. So if the cooling fan comes on when the a/c is on but not when idling then we need to look at the engine coolant temp sensor input, or possibly the ECM itself. If the engine has a cylinder head gasket failure usually they do just the opposite, run hot at highway speeds and cool down at idle.
Also it can be faulty fan motor assembly or fan motor wires are cut and not letting fan to come on.

If waterpump and thermostat are already replaced and still you notice the problem then,When you installed the thermostat and water pump did you bleed the cooling system of air. When you do any kind of work on the cooling system air gets in it and must be bled out. Another thing can be problem with  lower intake gasket leaking which could cause an over heating condition. There is a coolant bypass line that bolts on top of the water pump at the top is a bleeder screw you can warm up the vehicle and open then close until coolant flows out it. Some times the air pocket can be very stubborn to get out.

This will help.

Dodge Journey Fuse Box Details

Dodge Journey Brake Light Fuse Box Details

For Fuse Box Diagram Under Glovebox CLICK HERE

Cavity M1 is for the 3rd brake lite and M37 is for the other brake lites. If the fuses are good then ck the bulbs.

See the Fuse Box details mentioned below:---

dodge brake light fuse

dodge fusebox details

fusebox diagram for dodge journey

 To reset the electronic controls for my climate control & multimedia center

Try pulling the fuses for the HVAC and DVD for 5 minutes.

For 2009 Dodge Wiring Details:----
Follow the wiring chart mentioned below:---

 POWER UNLOCK USE LOCK WIRE (-) thru a 100 Ohm Resistor, SEE NOTE #2 

Dodge Journey fuse box diagram

2009 To 2012 Dodge Journey fuse box diagram

It is a little hard to get to, it is behind the glovebox and you need to remove the panel under the glovebox.

Fusebox Diagram as follows:

Interior Fusebox diagram for dodge

Fuse box diagram for dodge journey

For Further Dodge Journey Fuse Box details CLICK HERE:

2005 Chrysler 300 overheats

Chrysler Overheats

Unfortunately, it sounds like you may have a blown head gasket and you’ll likely need to take it in to get it repaired or at least do the test yourself.

About your vehicle.

The first thing that you want to do is check the cooling system for any exhaust gases. There is a tester for that, that you can gt from Autozone for about $20. It comes with instructions, but there is a blue fluid that is used in it, if the fluid turns yellow, that is exhaust gases.

Part Number:

Suppose If you get any exhaust gases in the cooling system, that will cause more pressure than desired and will allow the engine to burn coolant and/or heat the coolant up too high. Most times not filling the crankcase with coolant either.
If there are, then there would be an internal engine problem, like a head gasket or head.
Of course, you will want to make sure that the system is full, the coolant is circulating, and the cooling fan(s) are working as well as the pressure cap holding pressure.

Another issue can be water pump worn out or thermostat issue.But if its already replaced and new,Air in the cooling system. Needs to be burped by leaving cap off so it doesn't build up pressure, drive slowly around your neighborhood and take a supply of coolant w/you. Stop periodically and add coolant. When it finally stops accepting coolant fill the reservoir to the line, again drive slowly and recheck coolant level.

Also, is it possible you reversed the thermostat so it is blocking coolant rather than opening and letting coolant circulate?

You could have air in the system. There is a bleeder right near the thermostat housing. You may want to open that bleeder when it is cold, start it and try to get any residual air out of the system by working with that bleeder. The bubbling you see may just be due to the coolant boiling. The lower hose not getting warm at all indicates the thermostat is not opening and there is no circulation.

 Some of the symptoms suggest a leaking head gasket. Look for bubbles in the overflow reservoir. If the coolant is cold, you know it's not overheating.

Do not remove the thermostat. In some cases, that will cause overheating because the coolant won't stay in the radiator long enough to cool. More commonly, the engine won't reach operating temperature. Parts won't fit right leading to rapid engine wear, and the fuel system will not go into "closed loop" and fuel mileage will go way down.

The pressure cap simply allows system temperature to go above 212 degrees without causing the water in the coolant to boil. It doesn't CAUSE the temperature to rise.

If Overheating is not repaired on time it can cause many other issue.Also vehicle no start problem can occur.

Engine overheating can cause severe internal damage. Did the engine turn over and not fire, or not turn over at all, as in the engine is locked.

There are a couple of possibilities, the most likely is that your overheating caused damage to the cylinder walls which is now causing low compression, resulting in a no start condition. It is also possible that some other component failed at the same time as the overheating, and that component is causing the no start, i.e., a bad crank sensor or something of that nature. If you let the engine overheat to the point that it began shutting off, then it is extremely likely that you have internal engine damage.

ALSO OVERHEATING CAN BE DUE TO fan not running as the rotating fan assembly is now severely out of balance. This in turn would probably cause the fan motor/bearings to fail, or blow a fuse. If they are damaged/blown then naturally your engine will start to overheat, unless you get air moving over the radiator element by driving it at moderate speed.

Dodge ram ecm connector no start


ECM is vehicles brain.That controls the electrical system of vehicle.It also excepts the signals from sensors and commands the electrical parts to operate at their respective time period.This is how your vehicle starts and stops.

05 dodge ram 3500 5.9 diesel no gauges,no start,no communication with ecm with the key on i can unplug the blue connector to ipm or the c1 connector of pcm then plug back in and everything will power up and work fine until key is turned off for a short period of time then it wont power up until one of the connectors is unplugged i have checked power and grounds to and from ign switch,ipm,ecm everything seems to be in order. when i have no power i have no 5v ref on c2-33,c1-41,c1-54,c1-27 but then i have battery voltage on c2-23,c1-25.

Try this solution:
Disconnect the electronic fan clutch connector and check if ECM response returns and the engine starts. Replace the fan clutch assembly if normal operation returns with the fan clutch disconnected.

i tried it three times works every time thanks a million.

dodge ram 5.9 turn over but wont start new wires an plugs new stater and crank sensor new ecm and coil.

When you turn the ignition to the run position can you hear the fuel pump in the fuel tank run for a couple of seconds and then turn off?

that tells me that the PCM is powering up and is probably ok. Now have you checked for spark at one of the spark plugs while cranking the engine.

With the test light test the voltage at coli.
let's see if you are getting the 12 volt feed to the coil from the ASD relay. Disconnect the coil 2 way connector, ground the test lead clip to a good ground and then probe both terminals in the connector while some one else turns on the ignition. The light should power up for a couple of seconds and then go off. You should see this on one of the terminals.

I want to see if the PCM is seeing the crank and cam sensor signals when the engine is cranking. Do the test for ASD voltage at the coil connector again (test light clip on negative, and probe in the green/orange wire) you said that you did get power there for a couple of seconds after turning on the ignition. Now check that while cranking the engine. The light should come back on if the PCM sees a valid cam and crank signal.

If no light is coming this tells me the PCM for some reason is not seeing a cam and/or crank sensor signal, or the signals are out of sync (timing chain jumped). Let's try this: Crank the engine for at least 15 seconds and then check codes If the crank or cam sensor is not sending a signal then the PCM should  set a code. 


boosted the dodge ram diesel 6 speed ,then thinking is would check the alternator i disconnected the battery's it stop and wont start at all. all it does is blow fuse 42 PCM.

Exact Color of the wire is red.its a 30 amp fuse.

Fuse 42 feeds the solid red wire leaving the TIPM at pin 1 of connector 3 and goes straight to the ECM. If the fuse is blowing but doesn't blow with this wire removed then it's either shorted to ground or the ECM has failed. All you'll need to do is unplug the ECM and reinstall the wire to the TIPM connector, if the fuse doesn't blow then you know the problem is in the ECM and it will need to be replaced. Removing the battery cable with the engine running would have created a voltage spike from the charging system and would be expected to cause modules to fail, so I expect that the ECM is going to be the problem and not the wiring.
Please note ECM is called as car's computer module.

The ECM is the large square module mounted to the left side of the engine block. It has two 60-way electrical connectors that are bolted on. Just unplug these two connectors, make sure the wire is installed back in the TIPM connector, throw in a new fuse and see if it blows.

A new ECM will run about $1,760 at a dealer, cheaper if you can find an aftermarket re-manufactured unit through a parts store. You could install it, once it's installed then it will need to be programmed with a dealer scan tool before the truck will run.
This will help.

My Vehicle Starts After Wiggling The Electrical ECM Computer Connector ......... Read More

No Bus On Display Of Dodge Ram

ECM Connector Problem

"NO BUS" means that the communication system between the computers has stopped working.

Hi I have a 2000 Ram 1500 that had the same problem.
In the Electrical Power Distribution Center ( The fusebox located in the engine compartment )There is one big connector with a screw down through it that loosens or tightens the connection.

This problem is noticed by many dodge vehicle owners. For some unknown  reason that connector stop making good contact with at least one or 2 of the pins.What has to be done is take that off, clean it up, and put it back on and everything will work fine.

What is suggested is clean it better with contact cleaner and coat it with some dielectric grease and see if it stands the test of time. This specific problem generally seems to be some kind of electrical contact problem and not the Computer or any other major part.

I had the same "no bus" all gauges dead on my 2000 ram 1500. After looking at all the different answer posted I tried all of them and this one that worked. 
I tried disconnecting the main plug held down by a screw in the fuse box on the engine compartment. I disconnected, blew the plug and the connect with compressed air, plug it back in tighten the screw and my truck is fine again. Everything works as it should.

Hope this helps others too facing this same problem.

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Engine Will Not Start,Starter Turns ON

Starter spinning but the engine will not Crank

There are few possibilities that can cause the problems:---

The starter drive on your starter is faulty.

The starter drive is not engaging the flywheel to crank the engine.

The flywheel issue.The flywheel has some cracked or broken teeth that stops the starter from engaging.

Understand the starter system of the vehicle:---

On some starter the solenoid is mounted on top of the starter. 

Now When the ignition key is turned to ON, the solenoid paths current to the starter motor and at the same time pulls a lever that forwards the drive gear mechanism out so it will engage the flywheel and crank the engine. 

But when solenoid is weak or damaged, it may not be strong enough to overcome the spring tension that retracts the drive gear. So the starter spins but doesn't crank the engine. In your case this might be happening and that is what causing the problem.

On other type of starter assembly the solenoid is mounted remotely. In this starters when the starter motor starts to spin, it ratchets out so the drive gear will engage the flywheel and crank the engine. In this case if the drive mechanism is damaged or hung up, the motor may spin but not crank the engine.

In any case the starter motor has to be removed out to inspect the starter.


This are due to few possible reasons.
What exactly any working engine needs to start?

Engine requires sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So whenever an engine is not able to start, any of the following is not performing.

If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem. 

If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression.

When the engine cranks ordinarily but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition can be checked with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground. 
No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors.

car make a whistling noise

Why car make a whistling noise

There are reasons for why car makes whistling noise.

On some cases car makes whistling noise while start up.On some cases it makes whistling noise while accelerating. On some cars it starts making noise after driven for some time.

Check for vacuum leaks.Wheel bearing.

Check window seals.If the seal is loose,cracked worn out then it will let air enter the vehicle which causes whistling noise at high speed.

When the alternator is overworking it can produce a whistling noise that can vary with engine speed. 

Exhaust leak issue.A plugged exhaust - Muffler or Cat, most likely.

A fan or power steering belt slipping. Tip a bit of water on the belt while the engine's running and see if the noise stops.

Most of the cases causes of a whistling sound would be a vacuum leak, or sticking idle control system.
If the engine idles abnormally high when you first crank it up, then the malfunction is definitely in the idle system.
If the whistling gets louder or changes pitch with increase in RPM, then it is a belt. I t may even stop altogether, and start back when you come to a slowdown, too.

To deal with fan belt making noise issue its suggested to use  a scotchbrite pad, and 'clean' the pulleys with it.

A worn out timing belt tensioner causing this.

Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Ford Fuel pump relay and cooling fan relay

Troubleshooting Ford Relay

Fuel Pump Relay And Cooling Fan Relay

Its suggested to go through Troubleshooting Part 1.
For fuel pump and cooling fan relay Part 1 Click Here

Here are the rest of the wiring schematics for the PCM

Worked on it last night. Using a test light at the two power wires at the PCM 71 97, I had a bright light. I used the Green screw on a Ground bus for the ground. Didn't get actual Voltage at the PCM but check voltage at the IRCM and it was 12V+. Reseated as many of the Ground I could find. Except the one under the dash.
The Rad Fan fuse 10A in the covered holder on the pass. side, next to the Rad. Support was very corroded. I cleaned it up and replaced the fuse. It must be working,because the Fan Still Runs. Also now the Fuel Pump isn't working at all. I tried a new IRCM. The fan now doesn't come on, and still nothing, still no fuel pump.
Check all the fuses, PD box #13 20A which is the fuel pump it's okay.
Where do I go from here?
Just to make sure you know the fuel pump only runs about 2 secs when you turn the key on until the vehicle starts.
If it is not running for 2 secs when you turn the key on pull up the schematic page I sent you for the pump(024-2).When you have power on B which is the same wire that feeds pin 71/97 on the PCM,see the schematic page labeled (024-1) and the PCM grounds pin 18 LB/O wire this creates a magnetic field which then pulls the switch side closed so power from fuse 13 can go to pin 5 the PK/BK wire to the inertia switch and then to the pump.

Okay, I've checked the relay function inside the IRCM. I connected a ground lead to the bolt of the ground for the IRCM. Put my Fluke inline on Continuity check/ diode. Connected to the Pin 18 of the IRCM. When I turn on the Key, nothing. Doesn't go to ground like it should. I disconnected the IRCM and jumpered from Pin 5 for the pump to Pin 11, which is both sides of the Contacts of the Relay. The Fuel Pump does run and I have 40 PSI at the Shreder Valve.

Let me make sure I have understood what you have checked.You have power on 71/97,You have double checked the grounds to the PCM pins 33,25,24,76,51,77,and 103.
When you turn the key to run position the PCM is not providing a ground pin 18 LB/O wire for the coil side of the fuel pump relay at the ICRM? Have you also checked it at pin 80(see page 024-2) of the PCM just to make sure you are not fighting a bad wire?
If you have power on pin 71/97 and also 55 and all of your grounds are good at the PCM then take and ground pin 80 with the key on and everything connected and see if the pump runs.If so your problem is the PCM itself.

Power on pins 71 and 97. Also at 55 when key is on. I haven't checked the pin 80. I'll ground it and see what happens. I will do this with key on at the PCM.
. I DO KNOW that at the IRCM if I ground that wire the pump runs, so if it doesn't run when grounded at the PCM then it's wiring issue, more than likely. Since the pump ran when it first wouldn't start, now doesn't. Makes me believe it's something like wiring.
I unmounted the Power Dist. Box and Checked the Power to all fuses and outputs on them. Everything was okay. Reseated All connectors around the PDB, grounds, power etc.
I have 12V at the MAF Sensor, Ignition Module, IRCM and the PCM.
I have checked the Grounds at the Battery, at the Grnd.Buses at the Rad. Support for the battery and the IRCM, Data Link, and the PCM case, PCM bus and the two black wires mounted at the passanger kick panel.
ONLY Ground I can't find is the one behind the dash.
I found a Black 4" square Connector block under the dash, it has about 6 multiple color connectors going to it. Do you know the location of the Ground Bus at the dash? I know that you sent me a picture of the location, but I can't find it unless it's behind something, such as the above mentioned Black 4" block.
I've tried an Ignition Switch, IRCM, and a PCM, still the same thing.
Can the Igniton Module keep the Fuel Pump from running? If I check for spark at the coil packs, with the problems I'm having, will it still show spark? Someone said it would.

It sounds like you are putting the cart before the horse here so to speak. Remember what I told you if the PCM does not power up this is what it will do. Just to verify disconnect the connector on the PCM and turn the switch on and see if you see anything different than what you have now.
What I suggest you do since you have verified power to the PCM then take your test light or voltmeter which ever one you are using.Hook it to a power source then test each of the grounds I listed previously at the PCM connector itself. If they are good it will show 12V.
If you ground pin 80 with the key on and the pump runs then this further verifies that the PCM is not powering up.
If all the grounds at the PCM connector check good there is no need tracing them back.
If all the grounds and powers are good at the PCM then the PCM is bad.

Last night I checked all the grounds at the PCM. The 7 u listed. Using the 12Volts from the interior lights power. Everything was fine, even the case was grounded. I shorted the Blue/ Orange wire Pin 80 I believe,and the Fuel Pump runs.
Just for the heck of it I hooked my OBDII scaner to the Data Link and turned on the key, it tried to read the codes, said didn't have any, so I'm assuming that it was seening the computer. No codes, obviously, cause I've had the battery disconnected.
Does the Ignition Module have anything to do with the Computer NOT turning on the Fuel Pump? I have 12V at the ICM when the key is on, and also at the MAF.

What is the cooling fan doing now?
If the PCM is powering up cooling fan should be off and the fuel pump should run about 2 seconds then shut off until engine actually starts.It should do this every time you cycle the key from off to on.
You do not have a chip installed on the back PCM.I was just working with a guy on here with the exact problem and he had a super chip installed,when he removed it problem was solved.
Same as original problem.
No modifications, to PCM.

You have a bad PCM unless you have a chip installed on it and in that case remove the chip.

I've tried a new PCM. It's doing the same thing. Is it possible that something else is influencing the PCM not to run? Possible a bad PCM? Does the Ignition Control Module or the Crank Position Sensor possibly have anything to do with a signal not getting to the computer?
That should not effect the cooling fan and the fuel pump,but try and unhook the ignition module then cycle the key and see what they do(cooling fan and fuel pump).
Where did you get the PCM was it programmed to the car? Or was it a used one of of a like vehicle?

Picked up the PCM from Advance Auto, Cardone brand. 78-6137 part number. It's one that is programmed for the Calibration sticker on my door jam. Calibration 5-18B-R00.
If the PCM you got was brand new then it is blank and has to be programmed to the vehicle. If your local dealer has the adapter cable they can program it off of the car but if they don't they will need the vehicle.Here is a TSB about programming it off of the car.
Publication Date: FEBRUARY 19, 1999

1994-1999 MUSTANG
1996-1997 PROBE
1996-1998 MARK VIII
LIGHT TRUCK:1994-1997 F SUPER DUTY, F-250 HD, F-350
1996-1997 AEROSTAR
1996-1999 EXPLORER, F-150, F-250 LD
1998-1999 NAVIGATOR
This TSB article is being republished in its entirety to update the affected vehicles and to include an Application Chart for the affected vehicles.


The Federal Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has mandated that all aftermarket service centers shall be able to either reprogram Powertrain Control Modules (PCMs) or obtain reasonably priced, timely PCM programming services at dealerships. Ford has released an out-of-vehicle EEC V reprogramming cable to support this requirement. Also, PCMs are reprogrammable to update calibration levels or to reprogram a common hardware type to a new calibration in order to fill a service need without ordering a new PCM.


Refer to the Application Chart in this article to use the new 15- to 104-Pin Flash Cable to handle all necessary out-of-vehicle programming of EEC V modules in the vehicles listed. This may allow added flexibility in servicing aftermarket and fleet accounts as well as provide the ability to have modules updated to new calibrations through the Parts Department instead of ordering new parts.
Currently, EEC V modules must be installed in a vehicle to reprogram a new calibration in the module. An aftermarket service center may bring a module to a dealership for a calibration update or may request an updated calibration be installed to a new service part. The EPA regulations require "reasonably priced, timely service" be provided by the dealer. The new 15- to 104-Pin Flash Cable works with the New Generation Star (NGS) Tester to provide the capability to reprogram a calibration on a PCM out of the vehicle.
The 15- to 104-Pin Flash Cable connects between the NGS Tester and PCM 104-pin connector. The proper calibration must be downloaded to the Data Transfer Card through Service Bay Technical System (SBTS). Once the card is inserted into the NGS Tester and the cable is connected, follow the calibration download instructions displayed on the NGS screen.
The 15- to 104-Pin Flash Cable (007-00587) can be ordered from Rotunda by calling 1-800-ROTUNDA.
Model YearsVehicleEngine
1995-99Crown VictoriaAll
1997-99Econoline4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L, 6.8L
1996Econoline4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L, 7.5L
1995-99Econoline7.3L DIT
1997-99F-Series4.2L, 4.6L, 5.4L
1996-97F-Series5.8L, 7.5L
1996F-Series4.9L, 5.0L
1994-99F-Series7.3L DIT
1995-99Grand MarquisAll
1996-98Mark VIIIAll
1995-99Town CarAll






Information Only

I am told and have looked at the Cardone site, that this box should be preprogrammed. Not that it means much.
Almost forgot, I'll check the removal of the Ignition Module Connector when I get home tonight. I was told, not sure about it being true statement, that the PIP? signal is from the ICM. If that's true, maybe it's not seeing the Crankshaft Sensor signal and not telling the ICM/ PCM to run the next step in the start up. JUST hear say!
This is weird then.
The PCM powering up is the only thing I have ever seen or am aware of to cause the concerns you have. Usually if something on the red wire circuit that hooks to pins 71/97 was shorting it can cause this,I have seen heated O2 sensors do this,however it should show up on pin 71/97 when you do a voltage check(you should have a lower voltage than 12V like maybe 6V or so).
You can try unhooking everything that is feed from this circuit one at a time and see,like the MAF,ignition module,heated O2 sensors,Trans connector,DPFE sensor.
To tell if the PCM is seeing the crankshaft sensor see what the CEL(check engine light) does.It should come on when you turn switch to on position,then go out while cranking.

I do know that I've had an O2 sensor error that has to do with the up stream sensor lean bank 1. I hadn't fixed it. I'll recheck voltages at the 71/97 red wires to see what the voltages are. Can I disconnect the two upstream O2's at the same time and try to start it? MAF was new about a year ago. What is DPFE Sensor?

Concentrate on the cooling fan. Look at the schematics I sent you and trace the circuits back from pins 71/97 and everything that hooks to the circuit disconnect them one at a time and then cycle the ignition switch on and see if the cooling fan stops running and you hear the fuel pump run.It should start when this happens.
Here is the DPFE sensor it is called the EGR pressure sensor in this pic.
ItemPart NumberDescription
1N61037-S2Bolt (2 Req'd)
29J460EGR Pressure Sensor
49J459EGR Vacuum Regulator Control
69J432Transducer Mounting Bracket
79D761EGR Pressure Sensor Hoses
A-Tighten to 5-7 Nm (40-61 Lb-In)
B-Tighten to 8-12 Nm (71-106 Lb-In)

I finally got the Pump to run! I did some disconnecting of things, and found that when I disconnect the C161 large connector on pass. fender that feeds the engine and trany. The pump ran, the Data Link let my OBDII read again and I heard the clicks behind the dash like I used to hear. Fan stopped running too. I hooked it back up and it had the same thing. Disconnected and pump etc again.
Now it won't start, but that's partly due to the coils being in that wiring. Next I will start disconnecting each sensor and checking each one. I am going to replace the 2 Upstream O2's because I've been having P1131. Lean bank one, I think? 200k on the car and I've never changed those 2 sensors.
Sounds like you are on the trail now.
Yes P1131 is bank one(passenger side).
Make sure you also trace the wiring back from O2 sensors to the C161 connector also make sure you do not have the harness touching exhaust somewhere and check it for chaffing near any sharp edges like the wiring harness holders that hold the harness in place.
Replacing the uppers at this mileage would be a good idea.
This afternoon I changed both up stream O2's and tried the key, still the same thing. I pulled each engine connector one at a time and after about an Hour+ I found a EGR Pressure Sensor at the back of the motor with a REF and HI stamped on it. When I finally got it unplugged the Fuel Pump ran and the Fan didn't! I needed to remove the Throttle Body and Curve piece to clean out the EGR passage anyway, so I removed it and will be locating one tomorrow.
It was the last thing I unplugged. I unplugged everything one at a time, and almost missed it since it's mounted on a plate behind the Throttle Body Adapter.
Was it melted? If it was you will need to check for an exhaust restriction.To do this you will need to plug a vacuum pressure gage into the hoses that go to the DPFE and take a pressure reading.You should have 1 PSI or less at idle and 3 to 4 PSI at wide open throttle.If you have to much exhaust pressure then you have an exhaust restriction most likely a stopped up cat.

No it wasn't melted. Didn't look bad at all. I did get the EGR Passage cleaned out. Very full of Carbon. How does the EGR Pressure Sensor work anyway? It has three 3 wires. I take it it has 12V on it.

It has a reference voltage to it and a ground and the other wire is signal return.It measures exhaust back pressure. The 5V reference voltage is supplied and then depending on the voltage that returns this tells the PCM the amount of back pressure.
It is like an adjustable resistor that adjust to pressure.

I looked up the part. It shows a BWD Black Plastic unit. Mines Aluminum, that could be why it's not melted. should I ck as stated above? The car wasn't running bad, it was running great no loss of power or anything. So I don't think the Cats are bad.

Yes the replacement will be black.They don't make the metal ones any longer.Had to much interference from them on the newer models,kept setting camshaft position sensor codes.
I would still check it just to be save if you have a vacuum/pressure test gage.
Will do!

Sounds like you are on the homeward stretch now.
Where do the two hose go? I was told they go to the tube off the exhaust manifold on the passengers side to the EGR. What is inside the tube for the hoses? It will be almost impossible for me to connect a vaccum gauge to this Switch without putting the car back together. Can I check each of the hoses with a vaccum hand pump with a gauge. This would also show up a leak in the tube, correct?
Yes they go into the exhaust stream.You will check this after you get the engine running just to make sure that this did not cause the DPFE to fail. You need a vacuum/pressure gage because you are reading pressure and not vacuum.
Cleaned the EGR passage in the intake. Checked the EGR with a vaccum pump to see if it moved. Moved very easily, only a couple small pumps and I hear it open. It opened and closed every time. I put a small amount of Carb cleaner in the hole to see if it leaked. Stood for several minutes so the EGR is seating okay.
Put a very low air pressure to the two lines to the DPEF and both flowed air. One side is more restricted than the other, but I was told that was normal. Don't think any holes in lines. Took the old DPFE apart. only a small amount of carbon dust, nothing looked like it had been hot. It was shorted accross the 3 pins. Red seals inside not burnt but cracked and leaking.
I got the car back together, except the pass. side O2, and water. I'll finish that tonight and try and start it.