How to replace timing belts on a 1985 1200 cc Honda Goldwing?

The procedure as follows:---

NOTE:
Any reference to Right means 'right' as seen from sitting on the bike
NOT as you see it on the pictures

Any reference to Left means 'left' as seen from sitting on the bike
NOT as you see it on the pictures

The [T-1] mark means the T mark on the crank
under witch you'll find a [F] and the number [1 ]

a 12 mm ring spanner with a decent 'offset' (more on that later)


...and maybe a set of 'tension rollers'
part # 14510-371-008
(they are about 60$ a piece (!!!))


Oh yeah; you need to remove the radiator...well not strictly,
but I wouldn't want to do this job without removing it...no way!


Remove front covers:

...remove spark plugs (you don't wonna turn the engine with the plugs in position.-)

...remove generator bolt cap

so you can get in there with your offset 12mm rings spanner.(This is where it needs to be offset)

This is the way the engine/crank will be turned during this procedure.



...remove timing mark cap

...remove spark plugs (you don't wonna turn the engine with the plugs in position.-)

...remove generator bolt cap

so you can get in there with your offset 12mm rings spanner.(This is where it needs to be offset)

This is the way the engine/crank will be turned during this procedure.



...remove timing mark cap...remove spark plugs (you don't wonna turn the engine with the plugs in position.-)

...remove generator bolt cap

so you can get in there with your offset 12mm rings spanner.(This is where it needs to be offset)

This is the way the engine/crank will be turned during this procedure.



...remove timing mark cap

turn engine as described above until the T-1 mark aligns with
engine block marks (it looks a little 'out' on the photo. It's the angle)

AND (this is important)
the pulley marks aligns with the marks on the engine cover
like here on LEFT side (seen from sitting on bike..remember)


and

RIGHT side

mark this position on the central pulley and engine block



...now release the tentioner bolts (*)

and remove the belt(*)

when you do that(*)
the right pulley (photo-left)
will 'wander/turn' out of position
when you remove the belt,
as it is 'riding' on cam 'slope'
(witch is under the influence of the valve springs).

and keep it in position:

put the new belt loosely over the pulley and

...holding the pulley in the CORRECT POSITION (marks aligned)
'strip' a spanner to the frame,

do not use the spanner to turn the pulley. Use your hands
...then 'lock' it with the spanner.
(make absolutely sure you did not turn (release) the bolt)

release left tensioner bolts


..remove belt

..put on new belt

Check the tensioners or 'tension roller'.
You may think they are 'fine' : they 'roll' and don't make funny sounds?
You wont know until you've had a set of new rollers in your hands:
They should be real 'tight' as a set of new roller bearings...witch I think
they are, in fact.
If they appear 'dry' or make any sounds; re-new and get rid of that high pitched whining sound associated with 'dry' rollers.

..this is how they go in left side (photo-right)



and the spring attaches

pulleys in correct position (both crank pulley and cam pulley)
...belt tight at the bottom
...tension roller loosely attached
(let the spring do the tension. On photo it is not on yet...ooops)


..check crank marks again

and check cam pulley marks again

attach right tension roller
(goes on like this)


and put on new belt

...check marks again

and re-re check crank marks


Now the new belts are on and tensioner roller bolts are not yet
tightened.

Now for 'adjusting' the belt tension:

LEFT side: (right photo-side)



NOTE: the spring pressure automatically positions the tensioner
...so no 'extra' pressure' on the tensioner before tightening the
tensioner back plate bolts!!!


..easy! But how about the RIGHT side with that cam pulley
being forced into a roll by the cam lobe.

"To tension the right hand..[snip]..the engine should be turned
through 360 degrees and the little arrows on the
cam-wheels should then face inwards...

this is by the way, with the engine once more
positioned at "T1".(*) You then do the same trick with
the tensioner (and the spanner as per Honda) locking
it up after the spring has done its job"

it takes 2 revolutions of the crank shaft
for each revolution of the cam shaft.


Now: re-check everything..all marks


Turn the engine by hand a few times

just to make sure the valves and pistons don't hit each other in case a mistake was made.




..and re-check



Do yourself (or future owners) a favor and mark down the
time and km/miles for the belt replacement



Check/re-adjust valve clearance
and check/re-adjust ignition timing

New belts CAN move the ignition timing a much as a few degrees

1/8" to 3/16" belt slack is just about right with the crank is at T1 and the left pulley at the UP position. After the left belt is adjusted you then spin the engine 360 degrees to get the UP mark on the right pulley facing downward then adjust the belt tension to the above mentioned slack.

That measurement is taken at the center point between the two pulleys and you just use two fingers to lightly flex the belt up and down.