Disconnect the ignitor at that point. Install the new ignitor exactly as you found the existing coil. Replace each part in reverse order. Plug in the appliance and turn it on. The burner now should work.
Be advise that some new replacement ignitors do not come with quick disconnect ends. In this case, it's okay to cut off the quick disconnect from the old ignitor and attach it to the new ignitor.
Simply clip off the wires several inches above the disconnect on the old ignitor, attach to the wires of the new ignitor and wire nut the two ends together. Repeat the process to attach the other set of wires and wire nut them together. There is no postive nor negative {polarity} to be concerned with.
Glow ignitors are fragile & they break easily. Handle and install the new ignitor carefully. Glowing hot surface ignitors are a non returnable and non refundable electric componet.
Oven would not work but the broiler did
The oven had been working intermittently for a while and after repeated threats of starvation from my spouse I finally took a look even though it was summer and the grill was working fine. The Igniter would glow red when the oven was turned on but the gas would not flow to it no matter what the temperature setting. I searched online and found this site that explained it was possible for the igniter to glow but if it was not drawing the correct amperage (because its resistance was too high) then the main brain would not allow the gas valve to open. So I took a look at the broiler and it had the same igniter. I measure the resistance of both of them and the oven igniters resistance was higher (don't rememeber the reading) then I moved the Igniter from the broiler to the oven and the oven worked from there it was just a matter of ordering the part. End of story except for I am still doing all the cooking on the barbecue outside.
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USER 2:---
Oven would'nt light
In most cases if your oven won't light or takes a long time to light you may have a bad igniter even if it glows. To check the igniter use a voltmeter to check for 120 A/C volts going to the igniter and3.5 A/C volts going between the ingniter and the gas valve. My bad ingniter glowed but had only only 3.0 A/C volts going to the gas valve for the oven. The new igniter took only 45 minutes to install and supply's 3.6 A/C volts to the gas valve and the oven works fine.
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USER 3:---
Oven failed to light
My son replaced the broiler igniter this spring, so I had a clue as to what was required. This was even easier and since I had back surgery recently & my husband was out of town that was a giant plus!
I unplugged the oven, removed the oven door, found the release latch and removed the oven floor. I then removed the 2 screws that held the igniter in place (I received this stove used and the igniter had evidently been replaced before as it was the same shorter version included in the kit). I pulled the igniter out then removed some insulation and tugged the connector out of the oven floor. I disconnected the igniter and plugged the new one in. I then replaced the connector in the floor, attached the igniter with the screws, replaced the insulation and did a test run (plugged in the oven & turned it on). That was successful so I put the floor back in and put the door back on.
Ta-Dah!
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Also click this link below to order the part:---
