how to replace clutch slave cylinder on 2002 Mitsubishi lancer?

Slave Cylinder

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove necessary under hood components in order to gain access to the clutch release cylinder.
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle, then remove the hydraulic line and allow the system to drain.
   
   WARNING

   Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from the system should be discarded. Also, do not allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
   
   
4. Remove the bolts and pull the cylinder from the transaxle housing. On some 1.5L engines, instead of a pushrod bearing against the clutch arm, a clevis pin and yoke is used. Simply remove the circlip, pull out the clevis pin and remove the cylinder.
5. The installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
6. Lubricate all pivot points with grease.
7. Bleed the system using DOT 3 brake fluid.

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Ok here is the list of materials and tools needed:
- Clutch secondary/slave cylinder repair kit - get yourself the original mitsu and spare yourself the extra labor from getting the non-original parts
- 12 mm socket or 12mm box wrench - 1/2" drive will do but its better to have 3/8" drive because the socket/ratchet will hit the fan shroud for 1/2." I don't have 3/8" so I opted to use the box wrench
- 10 mm box wrench for bleeding. This is the only thing I got, but if you have a 10mm flare wrench the better.
- Torque wrench
- lots of rags (preferably white) and old toothbrush
- cotton buds
- biggest syringe available (optional)
- DOT3 brake fluid - get a liter
- High temp grease
- A friend of companion for bleeding
- Eye protection
- Catch container for bleeding - I just use plain party cups for this.

As an added bonus, I'll also show how to replace your fluid and clean the reservoir. Chances are, you already have a black fluid when you have leaks since rubber tends to dissolve within the enclosed system.

NOTES
- It is mandatory to repack the shift fork connection to the pushrod with high temp grease when disassembled.
- Always wear eye protection.
- Brake fluid is very corrosive. Protect your painted surfaces. When brake fluid comes into contact, wipe out the surface and flush with water ASAP!
- NEVER use any other fluid (water, brake cleaner, carb cleaner, alcohol etc...) to clean the system. ALWAYS use fresh brake fluid - nothing else!

Let's begin:
1 - Remove the 2 12mm bolts below where the cylinder attaches itself to the tranny and set it aside for reuse.
2 - Pull the assembly out of the original position being careful no the bend the clutch piping
3 - Place a cover below the part where the assembly is to catch some leaking fluid.
4 - Pull the rubber boot starting from the end of the cylinder. If you do have leaks, its possible to have fluid gushing out.
5 - Separate the push rod from the old rubber boot
6 - Carefully pull the piston, piston cup and the conical spring. Don't get the spring bent or damaged or else you clutch will remain disengaged forever.
7 - Separate the spring from the piston. It is just clipped on the protruded end of the piston.
8 - Throw away the old rubber boot, piston and piston cup. Use everthing in the kit.

9 - Gently clean the pushrod and the spring with new brake fluid. A toothbrush may help here. Also clean the inside of the cylinder with a clean rag and brake fluid.
10 - Using the new piston/piston cup, clip the small end of conical spring to the protruding end of the piston. Wet this with a fresh brake fluid from the bottle. Wet the inside of the cylinder with brake fluid.
11 - Push the piston back to the cylinder conical spring first. Extra effor may be needed to slightly compress the piston cup.
12 - Insert the push rod to the new rubber boot. Take note of the notch on one end. This serves as a sort of lock for the small end of the boot.
13 - Pack the shift fork with grease. Add a little more on the end of the push rod.
14 - Insert the pushrod to the release fork and bolt in the cylinder assembly. If you do have a torque wrench or when space permits, torque the 12 mm bolts to 19 Nm or 14 ft. lbs.

Bleeding Preparation/Cleaning:
1 - I did it the old fashioned way. I have my brother in law press and depress the clutch pedal, while I stayed outside to open/close the bleeder.
2 - Open your clutch reservoir and remove the old fluid. There are two approaches. One is to use a syringe and suck out the old fluid. Next is to use a clean absorbent cloth and have the fluid out of the reservoir.
3 - Wipe out the insde with a clean cloth dabbed in fresh brake fluid. If you happen to see dirt or grime on the small portions of the cylinder, use dry cotton buds to get the black goop out. Also clean the reservoir cap.
4 - When everthing is clean, top up the reservoir. You can exceed the MAX line at this time.
5 - When all is set, remove the cap and insert your 10mm socket or 10mm flare wrench (prefered).
6 - Loosen the bleeder and return it back to a tightened state. Take note: tightened NOT torqued.
7 - Have a catch placed near the bleeder.

Iterative Bleeding Process:
1 - Press pedal down to the floor.
2 - Open bleeder.
3 - Close bleeder.
4 - Depress pedal fully.
5 - When reservoir is down to MIN, refill.
6 - Repeat to step 1 untill brake fluid comes out clean with high pressure squirts.
7 - Torque up the bleeder to 11Nm or 8 ft. lbs. to prevent leaks and thread damage.

It took use more than an hour to fully clean/bleed the system because I had a squid like fluid plus I rushed to the nearest auto supply to purchase a liter of fluid. I just bought a quarter of a liter prior to the activity. That's why I mentioned have plenty of fluid. It's cheap anyway.

For push type of clutch release cylinders, I found it a time saver to push back the release fork towards the secondary cylinder and holding it for around 3 seconds and watch the reservoir bubble out the excess air inside. I did this 5 times. This also helps push the conical spring to its proper seat inside the cylinder.

Chances are you also have dirt/grime sticking outside the body of the reservoir and cap which cannot be removed with soap and water by scrubbing. Remember the last clean squirts you got during bleeding? Don't discard it yet, get a clean rag and dab it in. Use this to wipe out the master cylinder area and have your handy toothbrush scrub the dirt and grime out. When you are satisfied with the cleanliness, flush it out with water and wipe it off.

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Master Cylinder

Removal & Installation

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove necessary under hood components in order to gain access to the clutch master cylinder.
3. Place a suitable drain pan under the vehicle to catch the fluid once the line is disconnected, or place a rag or shop towel under the fluid line of the master cylinder.
4. Loosen the line at the cylinder and allow the fluid to drain.
   
   WARNING

   Clean, high quality brake fluid is essential to the safe and proper operation of the brake system. You should always buy the highest quality brake fluid that is available. If the brake fluid becomes contaminated, drain and flush the system, then refill the master cylinder with new fluid. Never reuse any brake fluid. Any brake fluid that is removed from the system should be discarded. Also, do not allow any brake fluid to come in contact with a painted surface; it will damage the paint.
   
   
5. Remove the clevis pin retainer at the clutch pedal and remove the washer and clevis pin.
6. Remove the 2 nuts and pull the cylinder from the firewall. A seal should be between the mounting flange and firewall. This seal should be replaced.
7. The installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
8. Lubricate all pivot points with grease.
9. Bleed the system at the slave cylinder using DOT 3 brake fluid and check the adjustment of the clutch pedal.

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Understanding The Clutch

The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

The purpose of the clutch is to disconnect and connect engine power at the transaxle. A vehicle at rest requires a lot of engine torque to get all that weight moving. An internal combustion engine does not develop a high starting torque (unlike steam engines) so it must be allowed to operate without any load until it builds up enough torque to move the vehicle. Torque increases with engine rpm. The clutch allows the engine to build up torque by physically disconnecting the engine from the transaxle, relieving the engine of any load or resistance.

The transfer of engine power to the transaxle (the load) must be smooth and gradual; if it weren't, drive line components would wear out or break quickly. This gradual power transfer is made possible by gradually releasing the clutch pedal. The clutch disc and pressure plate are the connecting link between the engine and transaxle. When the clutch pedal is released, the disc and plate contact each other (the clutch is engaged) physically joining the engine and transaxle. When the pedal is pushed inward, the disc and plate separate (the clutch is disengaged) disconnecting the engine from the transaxle.

Most clutches utilize a single plate, dry friction disc with a diaphragm-style spring pressure plate. The clutch disc has a splined hub which attaches the disc to the input shaft. The disc has friction material where it contacts the flywheel and pressure plate. Torsion springs on the disc help absorb engine torque pulses. The pressure plate applies pressure to the clutch disc, holding it tight against the surface of the flywheel. The clutch operating mechanism consists of a release bearing, fork and cylinder assembly.

The release fork and actuating linkage transfer pedal motion to the release bearing. In the engaged position (pedal released) the diaphragm spring holds the pressure plate against the clutch disc, so engine torque is transmitted to the input shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the release bearing pushes the diaphragm spring center toward the flywheel. The diaphragm spring pivots the fulcrum, relieving the load on the pressure plate. Steel spring straps riveted to the clutch cover lift the pressure plate from the clutch disc, disengaging the engine drive from the transaxle and enabling the gears to be changed.

The clutch is operating properly if:

It will stall the engine when released with the vehicle held stationary.

The shift lever can be moved freely between 1st and reverse gears when the vehicle is stationary and the clutch disengaged.

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CLUTCH Adjustments

Cable

NOTE

The following adjustment is for the cable actuated clutch system on the Mirage. The Hydraulic systems on all other models are self-adjusting.

Fig. Clutch pedal height (A) measurement-Mirage

1. Measure the clutch pedal height (measurement A). The specification is 6.38-6.50 in. (162-165mm).

NOTE

The clutch pedal height is not adjustable. If not within specifications, part replacement is required.

1. Depress clutch pedal several times and check the pedal free-play (measurement B).
2. If measurement is not 0.67-0.87 in. (17-22mm), adjustment is required.
3. To adjust, turn the outer cable adjusting nut, located at the firewall, until free-play is within range.
4. Depress the clutch pedal several times and recheck the measurement.

Pedal Height

NOTE

The following adjustment is for cable actuated clutch systems. Hydraulic systems are self-adjusting.

1. Measure the clutch pedal height from the face of the pedal pad to the firewall. The desired distances are as follows:

Mirage-6.61-6.8 in. (168-171mm)

Galant -6.93-7.17 in. (176-182mm)

1. Measure the clutch pedal clevis pin play at the face of the pedal pad. The standard values are as follows:

Mirage-0.04-0.12 in. (1-3mm)

Galant-0.04-0.12 in. (1-3mm)

1. If the clutch pedal height or clevis pin play are not within the standard values, adjust as follows:

For vehicles without cruise control, turn and adjust the bolt so the pedal height is the standard value, then tighten the locknut.

For vehicles with the auto-cruise control system, detach the clutch switch connector and turn the switch to obtain the standard clutch pedal height. Then, lock with the locknut.

1. Turn the pushrod to adjust the clutch pedal clevis pin play to agree with the standard value and secure the pushrod with the locknut.

NOTE

When adjusting the clutch pedal height or the clutch pedal clevis pin play, be careful not to push the pushrod toward the master cylinder.

1. Check that when the clutch pedal is depressed all the way, the interlock switch switches over from ON to OFF.

Pedal Height & Free-Play

1. Turn back the carpet under the clutch pedal.
2. On Eclipse, measure the clutch pedal height, specification should be 6.67 inches for 5 speed transaxle and 7.02 inches for 6 speed transaxle. Measure the clutch pedal clevis pin play, specification should be 0.04-0.12 inch.
3. On Lancer, measure the clutch pedal height, specification should be 8.11-8.26. Measure the clutch pedal clevis pin play, specification should be 0.04-0.12 inch.
   
   
   

   

   Fig. Clutch pedal height (A) measurement-Lancer

4. If the clutch pedal height is not with specification, loosen the locknut and adjust the pedal height to specification using the adjusting bolt or pushrod.
   
   NOTE

   Do not push the clutch master cylinder push rod at this time.
   
   
5. If the clutch pedal play is not within specification, loosen the locking nut and move the push rod to adjust it to specification.
6. After adjustment, confirm that the clutch pedal free play and the distance between the clutch pedal and the floorboard when the clutch is disengaged is within specification (-C- 0.2-0.5 inch, -D- 2.83 inches or more for Eclipse and -C- 0.16-0.51 inch, -D- 4.1 inches or more for Lancer)
   
   NOTE

   If the measured free play and distance do not agree with specification, it is probably due to air in the system, faulty clutch master cylinder or clutch. Correct as required.
   
   
   
   
   

   

   Fig. Clutch adjustment measurement locations for measurement -C- and -D--Eclipse and Lancer

7. Reinstall the carpet.

1. Measure the clutch pedal height (measurement A). The specification is 6.38-6.50 in. (162-165mm).
   
   NOTE

   The clutch pedal height is not adjustable. If not within specifications, part replacement is required.
   
   
2. Depress clutch pedal several times and check the pedal free-play (measurement B).
3. If measurement is not 0.67-0.87 in. (17-22mm), adjustment is required.
4. To adjust turn the outer cable adjusting nut, located at the firewall, until free-play is within range.
5. Depress clutch pedal several times and recheck measurement.

Lancer Evolution

1. Turn back the carpet under the clutch pedal.
2. Measure the clutch pedal height, specification should be 8.0-8.1 inches. Measure the clutch pedal clevis pin play, specification should be 0.04-0.12 inch.
   
   
   

   

   Fig. Clutch pedal height (A) measurement-Evolution

3. If the clutch pedal height is not with specification, loosen the locknut and adjust the pedal height to specification using the adjusting bolt or pushrod.
   
   NOTE

   Do not push the clutch master cylinder push rod at this time.
   
   
4. If the clutch pedal play is not within specification, loosen the locking nut and move the push rod to adjust it to specification.
5. After adjustment, confirm that the clutch pedal free play and the distance between the clutch pedal and the floorboard when the clutch is disengaged is within specification (-C- 0.16-0.51 inch, -D- 4.5).
   
   NOTE

   If the measured free play and distance do not agree with specification, it is probably due to air in the system, faulty clutch master cylinder or clutch. Correct as required.
   
   
   
   
   

   

   Fig. Clutch adjustment measurement locations for measurement -C--Evolution

   
   
   
   

   

   Fig. Clutch adjustment measurement locations for measurement -D--Evolution

6. Reinstall the carpet.
   

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Driven Disc & Pressure Plate

Removal & Installation

Fig. Use the alignment dowel to center the disc on the flywheel-Mirage

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions at the beginning of this section.
2. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   Negative battery cable

   Transaxle assembly from the vehicle

   Pressure plate attaching bolts, pressure plate and clutch disc. If the pressure plate is to be reused, loosen the bolts in a diagonal pattern, 1 or 2 turns at a time. This will prevent warping the clutch cover assembly.

   Return clip and the pressure plate release bearing. Do not use solvent to clean the bearing.
   
   
3. Inspect the clutch release fork and fulcrum for damage or wear. If necessary, remove the release fork and unthread the fulcrum from the transaxle.
4. Carefully inspect the condition of the clutch components and replace any worn or damaged parts.

To install:

1. Inspect the flywheel for heat damage or cracks. Resurface or replace the flywheel as required.
2. Install the fulcrum and tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). Install the release fork. Apply a coating of multi-purpose grease to the point of contact with the fulcrum and the point of contact with the release bearing. Apply a coating of multi-purpose grease to the end of the release cylinder pushrod and the pushrod hole in the release fork.
3. Apply multi-purpose grease to the clutch release bearing. Pack the bearing inner surface and the groove with grease. Do not apply grease to the resin portion of the bearing. Place the bearing in position and install the return clip.
4. Using the proper alignment tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel. Install the pressure plate assembly. Install the retainer bolts and tighten a little at a time, in a diagonal sequence. Tighten them to a final torque of 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Remove the aligning tool.
5. Install the transaxle assembly.
6. Check for proper clutch operation.







Fig. Exploded view of clutch assembly-Eclipse shown

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
4. Remove the transaxle assembly from the vehicle.
5. Remove the pressure plate attaching bolts. If the pressure plate is to be reused, loosen the bolts in succession, one or two turns at a time to prevent warping the cover flange.
6. Remove the pressure plate release bearing assembly and the clutch disc. Do not use solvent to clean the bearing.
7. Inspect the condition of the clutch components and replace any worn parts.

To install:

1. Inspect the flywheel for heat damage or cracks. Resurface or replace the flywheel as required.
2. Using the proper alignment tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel. Install the pressure plate assembly and tighten the pressure plate bolts evenly to 11-15 ft. lbs. (15-21 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.
3. Apply a light coat of high temperature grease to the clutch fork at the ball pivot and where the fork contacts the bearing. Also a little bit of grease can be applied to end of the release cylinder pushrod and to the pushrod hole on the fork. Apply a light coat of grease on the transaxle input shaft splines.
4. Install a new clutch release bearing. Pack its inner surface with high temperature grease.
5. Install the transaxle assembly.
6. Lower the vehicle and connect the negative battery cable.
7. Check the clutch for proper operation.

CAUTION

The clutch driven disc may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be a cancer causing agent. Never clean clutch surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any clutch surface! When cleaning clutch surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.

Fig. Loosen and remove the clutch and pressure plate bolts evenly, a little at a time . . .

Fig. . . . then carefully removing the clutch and pressure plate assembly from the flywheel

Fig. Check across the flywheel surface, it should be flat

Fig. If necessary, lock the flywheel in place and remove the retaining bolts . . .

Fig. . . . then remove the flywheel from the crankshaft in order replace it or have it machined

Fig. Upon installation, it is usually a good idea to apply a threadlocking compound to the flywheel bolts

Fig. Check the pressure plate for excessive wear

Fig. Be sure that the flywheel surface is clean, before installing the clutch

Fig. Typical clutch alignment tool, note how the splines match the transaxle's input shaft

Fig. Use the clutch alignment tool to align the clutch disc during assembly

Fig. Pressure plate-to-flywheel bolt holes should align

Fig. You may want to use a threadlocking compound on the clutch assembly bolts

Fig. Be sure to use a torque wrench to tighten all bolts

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
3. Remove the transaxle assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the procedure earlier in this section.
4. Remove the pressure plate attaching bolts, pressure plate and clutch disc. If the pressure plate is to be reused, loosen the bolts in a diagonal pattern, 1 or 2 turns at a time. This will prevent warping the clutch cover assembly.
5. Remove the return clip and the pressure plate release bearing. Do not use solvent to clean the bearing.
6. Inspect the clutch release fork and fulcrum for damage or wear. If necessary, remove the release fork and unthread the fulcrum from the transaxle.
7. Carefully inspect the condition of the clutch components and replace any worn or damaged parts.

To install:

1. Inspect the flywheel for heat damage or cracks. Resurface or replace the flywheel as required.
2. Install the fulcrum and tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
3. Install the release fork.
4. Apply a coating of multi-purpose grease to the point of contact with the fulcrum and the point of contact with the release bearing.
5. Apply a coating of multi-purpose grease to the end of the release cylinder pushrod and the pushrod hole in the release fork.
6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the clutch release bearing. Pack the bearing inner surface and the groove with grease. Do not apply grease to the resin portion of the bearing.
7. Place the bearing in position and install the return clip.
8. Using the proper alignment tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel.
9. Install the pressure plate assembly.
10. Install the retainer bolts and tighten a little at a time, in a diagonal sequence. Tighten them to a final torque of 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Remove the aligning tool.
11. Install the transaxle assembly.
12. Check for proper clutch operation.

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   Negative battery cable

   Transaxle assembly from the vehicle

   Pressure plate attaching bolts, pressure plate and clutch disc. If the pressure plate is to be reused, loosen the bolts in a diagonal pattern, 1 or 2 turns at a time. This will prevent warping the clutch cover assembly.

   Return clip and the pressure plate release bearing. Do not use solvent to clean the bearing.
   
   
2. Inspect the clutch release fork and fulcrum for damage or wear. If necessary, remove the release fork and unthread the fulcrum from the transaxle.
3. Carefully inspect the condition of the clutch components and replace any worn or damaged parts.

To install:

1. Inspect the flywheel for heat damage or cracks. Resurface or replace the flywheel as required.
2. Install the fulcrum and tighten to 25 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). Install the release fork. Apply a coating of multi-purpose grease to the point of contact with the fulcrum and the point of contact with the release bearing. Apply a coating of multi-purpose grease to the end of the release cylinder pushrod and the pushrod hole in the release fork.
3. Apply multi-purpose grease to the clutch release bearing. Pack the bearing inner surface and the groove with grease. Do not apply grease to the resin portion of the bearing. Place the bearing in position and install the return clip.
4. Using the proper alignment tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel. Install the pressure plate assembly. Install the retainer bolts and tighten a little at a time, in a diagonal sequence. Tighten them to a final torque of 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Remove the aligning tool.
5. Install the transaxle assembly.
6. Check for proper clutch operation.

1. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   
   Negative battery cable

   Transaxle assembly from the vehicle

   Clutch fluid line bracket, insulator and washer

   Clutch fluid line

   Clutch slave (release) cylinder

   Boot

   Clutch cover (pressure plate) attaching bolts, cover plate and clutch disc. If the pressure plate is to be reused, loosen the bolts in a diagonal pattern, 1 or 2 turns at a time. This will prevent warping the clutch cover assembly.
   
   
2. Carefully inspect the condition of the clutch components and replace any worn or damaged parts.

To install:

Fig. Clutch assembly and related components-Lancer shown

1. Inspect the flywheel for heat damage or cracks. Resurface or replace the flywheel as required.
2. Apply multi-purpose grease to the clutch release bearing. Pack the bearing inner surface and the groove with grease. Do not apply grease to the resin portion of the bearing. Place the bearing in position and install the return clip.
3. Using the proper alignment tool, install the clutch disc to the flywheel. Install the clutch cover (pressure plate) assembly. Install the retainer bolts and tighten a little at a time, in a diagonal sequence. Tighten them to a final torque of 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm). Remove the aligning tool.
4. Install or connect the following:
   
   
   Boot

   Clutch line, washer, insulator and bracket

   Transaxle assembly
   
   
5. Check for proper clutch operation.

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