Technical Car Experts Answers everything you need: choke is not working on Nissan King Cab?

It is possible to have a carb kit installed on this model:---

Here is the disassembly, cleaning and inspection and assembly procedures. In case you want try installing the kit your self. In the diagram the fuel cut sol. is number 25 (anti-dieseling sol.) If the engine runs good after replacing the sol. I do not recomend rebuilding the carb.

Disassembly

Fig. 2 DFP-342/384 carburetor exploded view.

Disconnect accelerator pump and choke connecting rods, returns springs and vacuum break hose, then remove springs and hose, Fig. 2.
Remove air vent cover and screws securing choke chamber to main body.
Remove choke chamber and gasket, taking care not to damage air/fuel solenoid harness.
Remove accelerator pump levers, springs and washers from choke chamber, noting installation position for assembly. Further disassembly of choke chamber is not required unless choke components must be repaired or replaced.
Disconnect actuating link, then remove secondary throttle diaphragm capsule, bracket and throttle switches as an assembly.
Remove fast idle cam, secondary throttle lock-out levers and springs, noting installation position for assembly.
Remove screws securing throttle chamber to body, then the throttle chamber and gasket.
Remove accelerator pump and choke links from throttle levers, noting position for assembly.
Remove concealment plug, turn idle mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated recording number of turns necessary, then remove mixture adjusting screw and spring. Further disassembly of throttle chamber is not required unless component replacement is necessary.
Remove anti-dieseling solenoid and BCDD assembly from carburetor body.
Remove screws securing accelerator pump piston retainer, piston assembly and spring.
Remove fuel inlet bolt, filter screen, and the needle valve and seat assembly.
Remove screws securing float bowl cover retainer, retainer and cover, and the float.
Remove air/fuel mixture solenoid assembly.
Remove main jet well plug retainer and the plugs.
Record calibration valve and installation position, then remove metering jets and air bleeds, taking care not to damage or distort calibrated orifices and keeping components in order for assembly.
Remove accelerator pump discharge ball plug, spring, weight and discharge check ball.

Cleaning & Inspection

Clean components with suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air noting the following:

1. Do not immerse accelerator pump, vacuum diaphragms, composition float, electrical components (including mixture solenoid) or plastic bushings in solvent as they will be damaged.
2. Do not pass drills or wires through calibrated orifices as they will be damaged.
3. Ensure that solvent and all foreign material is removed from carburetor passages and that sealing surfaces are free from old gasket material.

Inspect components and replace any that are damaged, distorted or excessively worn.
Check choke and throttle shafts for looseness and free operation, and repair or replace as needed.
Inspect idle mixture needle and replace if damaged or grooved.
Inspect float and replace if damaged or saturated with fuel.
Inspect accelerator pump and vacuum diaphragms and replace if damaged or hardened.

Assembly

Reverse disassembly procedure to complete assembly, ensuring that calibrated components are installed in proper position, Fig. 2. Use new gaskets, seals and sealing washers, and perform adjustments, as outlined, during assembly. Prior to installation ensure that all linkages, levers and return springs are properly installed and adjusted. Install idle mixture screw in position recorded during disassembly, adjust mixture as outlined in appropriate tune up section, then install new concealment plug.

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Look over the whole igniton setup

plugs , wires , cap , rotor, coil pack
also fuel filter is cheap too.

check the electric choke first then pull a plug from each side .

should be a blue wire connected to the carb...

if thats fine and making good contact and clean then fine

open up the air cleaner and make sure once the car is started you will see a flap open up slowly after it warms up with out you hitting the gas .

Your choke flap should be almost closed when engine is cold. Then the flap will swing open as the engine warms to operating temp. With the motor off, you should be able to push the flap open and closed with your finger and feel some spring tension pulling it closed again. The choke spring is located under a factory sealed black cap (labeled choke coil cover in the photo) at the back of the carb. (My choke spring is broken, so my choke flap stays open all the time and my choke doesn't work). See photos. The 2nd photo shows a blue wire coming off the choke spring cover. That wire is what makes the choke spring move. Check to be sure it's still hooked up and not broken somewhere.

vac leak somewhere or somethin not hooked up right

More pictures for carb:---

1. When the motor is cold, pump the gas pedal a few times. That will release the fast idle cam and allow the choke to fully close.
2. Remove the air cleaner cover. The choke flap should be in the closed position. Push down on the choke flap with your finger. It should spring back against your finger. If it does that, then you know the choke spring is GOOD.
3. Start the motor and run it until you have it at full operating temperature. Stop the motor. IF the choke flap is OPEN, then the choke is working fine and you don't need to test the BLUE wire.
4. If the choke flap is still closed, then you need to check the blue wire with a tester.

This is what the choke flap looks like when closed.

Zoom in (real dimensions: 798 x 765)