how to adjust the clutch pedal on ford escort?

The ford escort had an automatic adjuster on the clutch pedal which gave heaps of trouble due to the teeth on the plastic pawl and ratchet failing,it sounds like that you need a new adjuster.----------

Its automatic and consists of a large spring loaded plastic half gear wheel thing with a couple of plastic ratchet holders.
They are a real pain as they are located on the clutch peddle, so the only way to work on them us upside down laying on the front seat.The best advice I can give you is to inspect them to see if there is any damage to the teeth on the half round gear, if there is buy a complete set from your local ford dealership. It should cost no more than £30 for the complete set.

The clutch cable linkage is supposed to be self-adjusting, so if the clutch is barely engaging and/or slipping, it sounds to me like you need a new clutch (they don't last forever).

Even so, I'd try adjusting the clutch

The adjust mechanism consists of a spring loaded ratchet quadrant attached to the clutch cable. To aadjsut the cable, grasp clutch pedal and pull upward, then slowly depress clutch pedal. If a click is heard during the procedure, an adjustment was necessary and has been accomplished. This procedure should be performed at least every 5000 miles.
If there is no click, the cable is as tight as it needs to be -- so any slippage would be in the clutch itself.

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Replacing a clutch is not a simple job and involves many steps. If you do not have any experience doing this kind of job, I would strongly recommend taking your car to a repair shop or a Ford dealer and having them replace it for you.

If you want to do it yourself, here's the basic procedure:
Replacing a Clutch:

1. Remove transaxle (engine must be supported from above with fender braces or an engine puller).
2. Loosen pressure plate cover attaching bolts around clutch cover.
3. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc from flywheel.
4. Position the new clutch disc and pressure plate onto flywheel with flatter side of clutch disc facing toward flywheel. Use a pilot tool to center the clutch disc on the flywheel.
5. Ensure three dowel pins on flywheel are aligned with dowel pins on pressure plate.
6. Tighten the bolts on the clutch cover evenly in a star pattern so as not to distort the clutch. Then final tighten the bolts to 12-24 ft lbs (17-32 Nm) .
7. Remove alignment tool, then install transaxle and perform initial clutch adjustment.

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For more help related to car problems, click the link below:---

http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/06/car-troubleshooting-guide.html

how to remove fuel sending unit on Suzuki Forenza?

Often, the variable resistor or a mechanical components of the sending unit will wear out, providing inaccurate to the fuel

Relieve the fuel system pressure

• Remove the fuel pump relay and start the engine until the engine stalls. To locate the fuel pump relay and learn the correct procedure to relieve the fuel system pressure, consult your vehicle service manual.

• Replace the fuel pump relay.

• Detach the ground battery cable using a wrench.

• Empty the fuel tank through the tank filler neck using a hand siphon pump and a fuel container.

Remove the Fuel Sending Unit

• Raise the rear of your car using a floor jack and support it on 2 jack stands. Some vehicle models provide access to the fuel-sending unit through an access door located on the floor, underneath the rear seat. To find out if you have access to the sending unit through the floor, consult your vehicle service manual.

• Place the floor jack underneath the gas tank to support it.

• Remove the tank straps' mounting bolts using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.

• Lower the tank a few inches and disconnect the fuel lines and hoses. Press the lock tabs on the hose plastic connectors and detach the lines and hoses form the fuel-sending assembly fittings.

• Unplug the fuel pump electrical connector.

• Lower the fuel tank to the floor.

• Disconnect the fuel-sending unit from the tank by unscrewing the cam lock holding the sending unit assembly to the tank. Use a drift punch and hammer to turn the lock counterclockwise. Some sending unit assemblies come equipped with a retaining ring, which can be unscrewed with a spanner wrench.

• Lift the fuel sending unit assembly off the fuel tank and discard the rubber seal.

• Remove the fuel pump from the old fuel sending unit.

Install the Fuel Sending Unit

• Install the fuel pump on the new fuel sending unit.

• Set the new fuel sending unit assembly on the fuel tank along with a new rubber seal. Make sure the sending unit's long arm points toward the rear of the fuel tank.

• Secure the sending unit assembly by turning the cam lock or retaining ring clockwise. Use the drift punch and hammer or spanner wrench, depending on your vehicle model.

• Raise the fuel tank a few inches using the floor jack and plug the fuel pump electrical connector.

• Attach the fuel lines and hoses to the fuel sending unit assembly.

• Raise the fuel tank in place and install the tank straps' mounting bolts.

• Lower the vehicle and refill the fuel tank.

• Attach the ground battery cable using a wrench.

• Start the engine and check for leaks.

how to disassemble Rowenta steam iron?

The plastic molded part into which the water is poured pulls out, and beneath it is the screw.

First make sure it is not plugged in.

Next remove the back plate, there is a single torx style screw. Once it is removed the rear plate will pop off if you pry gently on alternate sides.

Once the back is off you will see a black plug with two heavy grey wires (power wires) and a smaller red, black, and blue wire. The entire plug assembly will slide out to the rear with a little pulling. It exposes two leads from the base plate, freeing up the base plate for later removal.

There is a small white plug leading to two white wires at the top of the transparent box that holds the electronics. It also comes out to the rear with some gentle pulling. One this is released it will allow the base plate to be separated.

Now you can remove the base plate by removing the stainless cover at the front of the iron - it pops off. This exposes another torx screw.

The other two screws that hold the bases plate are at the rear of the bottom of the iron. When they are removed the iron base plate will separate from the plastic body.

Finally, to remove the transparent electronics box you must first lift out the temperature control. It lifts our with gentle pressure, but when it comes out a small spring and indexing pointer can pop out of the plastic arm that remains below the dial. Do not lose this part.

Once the dial is removed the plastic box containing the electronics will slide out of the iron to the rear.

Be very slow, gentle and do it with lots of patience.

Putting it back together assumes you have been careful and paid attention as it came apart -

Apart from the obvious two rear screws which you access by removing the plate on the power cord side, there is a "hidden" front screw just at the front of the lower part of the handle/body.
You can access that screw by pulling out (towards the front of the iron) the piece of plastic which is used as the water inlet to the tank.
That piece stays in place using an O-ring at the bottom side and a slot/grove on its top.
Once the front screw has been removed, everything else becomes obvious.

how to replace the front wheel hub bearings on Isuzu trooper 4 w/d

Remove the drive flange (6 bolts), circlip, washer and undo locking tab by removing 3 screws. Then you get access to the main hub nut which you have to remove with tool.

The bearings fall under Auto Hub removal since the hubs must be removed to change the wheel bearings. They do not give you bearing race R & R but you will need to use a punch to hammer the bearing races out of the hubs and a seal driver to install the new races if you plan to replace the races which is required with new bearings. Here is the procedure for Auto hub removal.

AUTOMATIC LOCKING HUB

Removal

1.Raise and support vehicle. Remove wheel and brake caliper. Wire
caliper aside. Remove 6 bolts and locking hub cover.
2.Remove snap ring and shim. Remove hub flange. Remove lock screw
and washer. Using Hub Nut Wrench (J-36827), remove hub nut.
Remove outer bearing with hub and rotor assembly. Mark hub and
rotor relation if they are to be separated.

Installation

1.Ensure hub flange, lock washer and axle splines are clean.
Install hub and rotor assembly with bearings. Install hub nut
with chamfered edge facing outward. Tighten hub nut to 21 ft.
lbs. (29 N.m), and then loosen.
2.While using spring scale, tighten hub nut to obtain proper
bearing preload. See WHEEL BEARING PRELOAD table. Install lock
washer so hole in washer aligns with screw hole in hub nut.
Install lock screw.
3.Apply thread lock compound to joining faces of hub flange and
install onto hub. Install snap ring and shim. Using dial
indicator, measure clearance between hub body and snap ring .
4.If clearance is not 0-.012" (0-.30 mm), adjust using selective
shims. Shims available are: .008" (.20 mm), .012" (.30 mm),
.020" (.50 mm) and .039" (1.10 mm). Install hub cover and
tighten to specification. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .

WHEEL BEARING PRELOAD
Application Lbs. (kg)
New Bearing & New Oil Seal 4.4-5.5 (2.0-2.5)
Used Bearing & New Oil Seal 2.6-4.0 (1.2-1.8)

weed eater string fell off?

The technique for loading string into a weed eater will depend on the type of head the machine uses. Some weed eaters have a cap covering the spool that holds the string. Another type of weed eater uses a fixed line of string. Before loading your weed eater, determine the type of head and then obtain the correct type of string.

Screw Cap Weed Eaters

• Unscrew the cap that is located on the end of the weed eater head.Pull off the guide ring that is sitting over the spool, and pull out the spool.Remove the old string from the spool. Open the new package of weed eater string and cut off a 25-foot length with a utility knife.Place one end of the string into the opening of the spool. Insert the string into the spool and leave a 4-inch to 6-inch length of string hanging from the center.Set the spool back into the head of the weed eater and set the guide ring back over the spool.Screw the cap back on the head of the weed eater.

Fixed-Line Weed Eaters

• Push the old string through each of the two holes in the weed eater's head, toward the center of the head, and remove the old string.Insert one end of the new fixed-line string into one of the holes, pushing it through from the inside of the weed eater head, going outward. Push the string out to a length of 4 to 6 inches.Insert the other end of the string into the other hole on the head of the weed eater, again pushing it through from the inside, going outward. Push the string out to a length of 4 to 6 inches.

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how to replace camshaft sensor on daewoo nubira?

The camshaft sensor is located behind your drive belt that is connected to your alternator. In the interior area of this belt you'll see a couple of bolts which cover this sensor. You have to loosen these and I believe there is a belt cover which you must unclip in the area above the sensor cover. At this point you will not be able to get to the sensor. You must unbolt the two bolts on this that hold your engine. Don't worry the weight of the engine will keep itself in place. Now place a hydraulic jack under the engine, with a piece of wood on the part that is to make contact with the engine. Jack the engine up so that the tension is released in the area where you are to remove the sensor. You'll need a pair of needle nosed pliers to remove it, and don't forget which way it will go back in(which way was it taken out?)

To order camshaft sensor click this link below:--

http://www.familycar.com/autoparts/daewoo/nubira/camshaft_position_sensor.html

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One of the user mentioned its procedure of replacing camshaft sensor.Read as follows:--

First remove breather box. remove spark plug cover(top of engine two allen screws).see cam pos sen. wire clip at front of engine facing down, dont try to remove yet. clips are at the top sides of timing belt cover. from under the car remove plastic covers where you may find them on the pulley side and passenger side wheel well. using socket wrench relieve tension on torsion wheel(smallest pulley your s-belt crosses) by pushing up. release s-belt and remove(you may want to draw a quick diagram of how your belt is ran before removing). now remove the bolts from the timing belt cover.(when i did this i was also changing my harmonic balancer or crank pulley,if it is in the way of bolts remove the four bolts with a allen wrench,loosen it with the s-belt still on and car in fifth gear if standard to keep crank from turning. next place a long board or plank under the engine (across trans-housing,oil pan, as little on the oil pan as possible . place a jack at the center of the board and gently raise the engine. this relieves pressure from the top engine mount. remove the engine mount entirely. remove all screws from timing belt cover. remove cover. you will see two camshft gears at the top of the engine just below them you will see one star head screw(can usually be removed with an alle n wrench). it hold the cam pos sensor in place, remove then pull sensor out the top of the motor. sometimes they're a little bit stuck down in there. just pry a little but dont pull on wires! once removed disconnect wire replace, and rebuild.

The timing belt diagram.

The sensor is on the front of the cylinder head .

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• The Nubira is a car model introduced by the company Daewoo. The passenger car, for models produced between 1999 to 2002, experienced at least two recalls per model, including those for melting sensors and cracking hoses.

1999

• Two recalls were published for the 1999 Daewoo Nubira. The two recalls were intended to replace camshaft position sensors that had the potential to melt and lead to the melting of their surrounding components.

2000

• The 2000 Daewoo Nubira was also recalled twice for melting camshaft position sensors. A third recall states that the front brake hoses could develop cracks and eventually cause leakage and brake failure.

2001

• The 2001 Daewoo Nubira experienced two recalls for melting camshaft position sensors, and one recall for front brake hose cracking.

2002

• Similar to the 2000 and 2001 models, the 2002 Daewoo Nubira was recalled for melting camshaft position sensors on two separate occasions. The 2002 was also recalled for brake hose cracking in the front of the vehicle on one occasion.