Ignition Lock Cylinder
REPLACEMENT
1971-75 Models
- Remove the ignition switch.
- Put the key in the lock and turn it to the ON position.
- Insert a heavy paper clip wire or something similar through the release hole in the side of the switch. Push in the retaining ring until the lock cylinder can be pulled out.
- To install the new lock cylinder, line up the tang on the cylinder with the slot in the case and push the cylinder in.
- Replace the switch.
- Disconnect the battery ground cable.
- Remove the turn signal switch as described earlier in this section. You don't have to remove the switch completely, just set it aside.
- Insert the key. Position the key as follows.1976-83: With manual transmission, put it in the ON position; with automatic, put it in OFF/LOCK.1984-86: Two detent positions, clockwise, beyond OFF/LOCK.
- Working through the slot next to the turn signal switch mounting boss, use a thin screwdriver to release the lock cylinder.
- To install, insert the key in the new lock cylinder. Hold the sleeve and turn the key clockwise until it stops. Align the cylinder retaining tab with the housing slot and insert the cylinder. Push the cylinder in, rotate to engage, then push in until the retaining tab engages the housing groove.
- Complete the procedure in the reverse of removal.
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Ignition Switch
REPLACEMENT
See Figure 1
1971-75 Models- Disconnect the battery ground cable.
- On models through 1972, unscrew the nut from the front of the instrument panel and remove the switch. Some early production Utility models had a switch held in place by a bezel and tension spring, rather than a threaded bezel.
- On 1973-75 models, reach behind the panel and press the switch in against the spring. Turn the bezel counterclockwise to release.
- Lower the switch and detach the wiring.
- Reverse the procedure for installation.
1976-86 Models
The ignition switch is on top of the lower part of the steering column, inside the vehicle.
- Put the key in the lock and turn to the OFF/UNLOCKED position.
- Disconnect the battery ground cable.
- Detach the wire connectors at the switch.
- Remove the switch screws.
- Disconnect the actuating rod from the switch and remove the switch.
- Move the switch slider all the way down the column. Move it back toward the steering wheel two clicks to the center OFF/UNLOCKED position.
- Engage the column actuating rod in the switch slider and fasten the switch down.
- Connect the wire connectors, then the battery ground cable.
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Tie Rod End
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
1971 Models- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Remove the cotter pin and nut and disconnect the right tie rod section from the bell crank.
- Remove the cotter pins and nuts, and, using a puller or separator, disconnect the outer ends from the knuckles.
- Where applicable, the left and right tie rod sections can now be separated.
- The tie rod ends can be removed by loosening the clamps and unscrewing the ends. Before unscrewing the ends, note the exact number of threads visible, as an installation reference.
- All seals that show any sign of wear should be replaced. New tie rod ends should be installed if the old ones show any play or roughness of movement.
- Install the new tie rod ends, leaving the exact number of threads exposed, as previously noted. Torque all nuts to 38-42 ft. lbs.
1972-79 Models
- Remove the cotter pins and retaining nuts at both ends of the tie rod and from the end of the connecting rod where it attaches to the tie rod.
- Remove the nut attaching the steering damper push rod to the tie rod bracket and move the damper aside.
- Remove the tie rod ends from the steering arms and connecting rod with a puller.
- Count the number of threads showing on the tie rod before removing the ends, as a guide to installation.
- Loosen the adjusting tube clamp bolts and unthread the ends.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Torque the connecting rod-to-tie rod nut to 70 ft. lbs.
- Adjust toe-in, if necessary.
1980-86 Models
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Remove the cotter pins and nuts attaching the tie rod to the knuckles.
- Remove the steering damper to tie rod nut and move the damper aside.
- Using a separator, remove the tie rod from the knuckles.
- The tie rod ends can be removed from the tie rod by loosening the clamp and unscrewing them. Before unscrewing them, note the exact number of threads visible for installation reference.
- Install the new ends leaving the correct number of threads visible. Torque the clamp bolts to 12 ft. lbs.
- Connect the tie rod to the knuckles and torque the nuts to 50 ft. lbs. Install new cotter pins.
- Connect the steering damper and torque the nut to 22 ft. lbs.
Steering Column
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
All Models
- Disconnect the battery ground.
- Remove the column cover plate at the floorboards.
- Remove the column-to-dash lower bezel.
- On models with automatic transmission, disconnect the shift rod at the column. On models with air conditioning, it will be necessary to remove the left side air conditioning duct.
- Remove the column-to-dash bracket and lower the column.
Later models have breakaway capsules in the bracket. Remove the bracket and put it in a safe place to avoid damage to the capsules.
- Disconnect any wiring attached to column components.
- Remove the steering column-to-gear shaft coupling and pull the column out of the Jeep.
- On models with energy absorbing columns, it is extremely important that only specified fasteners be used. Fasteners which are not of the exact length or hardness may impair the energy absorbing action of the column. Bolts securing the column mounting bracket to the dash must be torqued exactly.
- Connect the column to the gear shaft and tighten the coupling pinch bolt to 45 ft. lbs.
- Connect all wiring. If you have Cruise Command, connect the white wire first, then the black one.
- Install the toe plates, but don't fully tighten the fasteners.
- Install the bracket on the column and torque the bolts to 20 ft. lbs.
- Align the bracket and dash and loosely install the mounting bolts.
- While applying a constant upward pressure on the column, torque the bracket-to-dash bolts to 20 ft. lbs.
- Torque the toe plate bolts to 10 ft. lbs.
- Install the bezel.
- Connect the transmission linkage and check its operation.
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