Tools Needed[/font]
JackJack Stands
2 Wheel Chocks
New Rack and Pinion that includes inner tie rods
2 new outer tie rod ends
Drain Pan to catch Power Steering Fluid
7/8 socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts
15mm socket and ratchet to remove the splash shield bolts
18mm socket and ratchet to remove the outer tie rod nuts
19mm socket and ratchet to install the new outer tie rod nuts
22mm wrench to loosen the jam nut on the tie rod
Hammer
Screwdriver (Flat Head)
Safety Glasses
Shop Light
Marking Pen to mark the relationship of the steering shaft to the steering gear
Pickle fork to remove the outer tie rods
Rope or bungee cord to secure the steering wheel
Power Steering fluid
18mm line wrech to remove the power steering lines
7/16 socket and ratchet to remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft
Channel Locks to hold the washer nut on the stabilizer bar link
13mm socket and ratchet to loosen the stabilizer bar link bolt
10mm wrench for the stabilizer bar bracket bolts
15/16 socket and ratchet AND a 15/16 open end wrench to remove the rack and pinion bolts
13mm wrench to remove the rack and pinion ground strap
Torque wrench to torque all bolts to specifications
Pliers to bend the cotter pins on the outer tie rods
8mm socket and ratchet to tighten the grease fittings on the outer tie rods
Grease Gun Step by Step Procedure
1) Apply Emergency Brake
2) Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires
3) Remove Center Cap on wheel to access lug nuts.
4) Break loose the 6 lugs on BOTH front tires by loosening 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
5) Jack up vehicle.
6) Position jack stands on frame.
7) Lower vehicle on jackstands. NEVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK.
8) Remove all 6 lugnuts on both front wheels.
9) Remove both wheels and slide these under the vehicle.
10) Remove the splash shield by removing the 5 bolts securing it.
11) Pop the hood and mark the relationship of the steering gear and the steering shaft.
12) Tie the steerign wheel up using a bungee cord or rope. Do not let the steering wheel freely turn as it can damge components in the steering column.
13) Use a 7/16" socket and ratchet and remove the pinch bolt on the steering shaft.
14) Slide the steering shafft off the steering gear.
15) On the passenger side, using a 22mm wrench loosen the jam nut a couple turns so that its no longer tight the outer tie rod
16 ) On the passenger side, use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
17) Use a pickle fork and hammer to knock the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
18) When removing the outer tie rod, count (and keep track of) the number of turns it takes to remove it.
19) Move to the drivers side and using a 22mm wrench break loose the jam nut. Loosen it a couple turns so that its no longer tight the outer tie rod.
20) On the drivers side, use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
21) Use a pickle fork and hammer to knock the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
22) When removing the outer tie rod from the drivers side, also count (and keep track of) the number of turns it takes to remove it.
23) Position a catch pan underneath the steering gear to catch any fluid that drains after the lines are disconnected.
24) Use the 18mm line wrench to remove the power steering lines from the steering gear and tuck out of the way.
25) Loosen the stabilier bar by positioning channel locks on the washer type nut located on top and holding it. Then use the 13mm socket and ratchet to turn the bolt on the bottom. It just needs to be loose enough to drop the stabilizer bar down to access the rack and pinion bolts. This needs to be done on the drivers side and passneger side.
26) Once those are loose, use the 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar brackets.
27) Once the brackets are removed, you should be able to drop the stabilizer bar down.
28) Use the 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the grounding strap from the rack and pinion to the cross member.
29) Using the 15/16 wrench and the 15/16 socket and ratchet, loosen the nuts and remove the bolts securing the rack and pinion to the cross member.
30) Slide the rack and pinion down to the floor.
31) Remove the grounding strap from the old rack and pinion and transfer it to the new one.
32) Remove the dust cover / caps from the new rack and pinion.
33) Take the new O-Rings that came with the new rack and pinion and replace the old ones on both power steering lines on the vehicle.
34) Slide the new rack and pinion under the vehicle, properly position it and re-install the bolts and washers / nuts. Tighten and torque both to 136 ft. lbs
35) Re-install grounding strap back to crossmember.
36) Put the stabilizer bar back into place and secure and tighten the bracket bolts. Torque to 24 ft. lbs.
37) Tighten the stabilizer bar link bolts on the driver and passenger sides. Torque to 48 ft. lbs
38) Connect the power steering lines to the new rack and pinion.
39) Tighten using the 18mm line wrench.
40) Reinstall the steering shaft to the steering gear.
41) Re-install the pinch bolt and torque to 33 ft lbs.
42) Remove the jam nuts on the old rack and pinion and install in the new one.
43) Install the new outer tie rod ends by turning the same amount of turn it took to remove the old one.
44) Tighten the jam nut.
45) Place the outer tie rod end through the knuckle and install the nut on the bottom. The nut for the new tie rod is a 19mm. Torque to 33 ft. lbs.
46) Install the new cotter pin and use pliers to bend the ends.
47) Install the grease fitting on the outer tie rod and tighten using an 8mm socket and ratchet.
48) Using the 22mm wrench, tighten the jam nut.
49) Move to the drivers side and reinstall the jam nut if havent already.
50) Install the new drivers side outer tie rod ends by turning the same amount of turn it took to remove the old one.
51) Tighten the jam nut.
52) Place the drivers side outer tie rod end through the knuckle and install the nut on the bottom. The nut for the new tie rod is a 19mm. Torque to 33 ft. lbs.
53) Install the new cotter pin and use pliers to bend the ends.
54) Install the grease fitting on the outer tie rod and tighten using an 8mm socket and ratchet.
55) Using the 22mm wrench, tighten the jam nut.
56) Add grease to the outer tie rod grease fittings.
57) Re-Install the splash shield with the 5 bolts.
58) Install both front wheels, tighten the lug nuts, and lower the vehicle to the ground
59) Torque the lug nuts to 140 ft lbs.
60) Remove the wheel chocks.
61) Add fresh power steering fluid to the full mark.
62) Crank the vehice and let if run for a few minutes while you remove the rope securing the steering wheel.
63) Recheck the power steering fluid and make sure its still at the full mark.
64) To bleed the power steering system, Turn the steering wheel back and forth without hitting the stops.
JackJack Stands
2 Wheel Chocks
New Rack and Pinion that includes inner tie rods
2 new outer tie rod ends
Drain Pan to catch Power Steering Fluid
7/8 socket and ratchet to remove the lug nuts
15mm socket and ratchet to remove the splash shield bolts
18mm socket and ratchet to remove the outer tie rod nuts
19mm socket and ratchet to install the new outer tie rod nuts
22mm wrench to loosen the jam nut on the tie rod
Hammer
Screwdriver (Flat Head)
Safety Glasses
Shop Light
Marking Pen to mark the relationship of the steering shaft to the steering gear
Pickle fork to remove the outer tie rods
Rope or bungee cord to secure the steering wheel
Power Steering fluid
18mm line wrech to remove the power steering lines
7/16 socket and ratchet to remove the pinch bolt from the steering shaft
Channel Locks to hold the washer nut on the stabilizer bar link
13mm socket and ratchet to loosen the stabilizer bar link bolt
10mm wrench for the stabilizer bar bracket bolts
15/16 socket and ratchet AND a 15/16 open end wrench to remove the rack and pinion bolts
13mm wrench to remove the rack and pinion ground strap
Torque wrench to torque all bolts to specifications
Pliers to bend the cotter pins on the outer tie rods
8mm socket and ratchet to tighten the grease fittings on the outer tie rods
Grease Gun Step by Step Procedure
1) Apply Emergency Brake
2) Place wheel chocks behind both rear tires
3) Remove Center Cap on wheel to access lug nuts.
4) Break loose the 6 lugs on BOTH front tires by loosening 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
5) Jack up vehicle.
6) Position jack stands on frame.
7) Lower vehicle on jackstands. NEVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE ONLY SUPPORTED BY A JACK.
8) Remove all 6 lugnuts on both front wheels.
9) Remove both wheels and slide these under the vehicle.
10) Remove the splash shield by removing the 5 bolts securing it.
11) Pop the hood and mark the relationship of the steering gear and the steering shaft.
12) Tie the steerign wheel up using a bungee cord or rope. Do not let the steering wheel freely turn as it can damge components in the steering column.
13) Use a 7/16" socket and ratchet and remove the pinch bolt on the steering shaft.
14) Slide the steering shafft off the steering gear.
15) On the passenger side, using a 22mm wrench loosen the jam nut a couple turns so that its no longer tight the outer tie rod
16 ) On the passenger side, use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
17) Use a pickle fork and hammer to knock the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
18) When removing the outer tie rod, count (and keep track of) the number of turns it takes to remove it.
19) Move to the drivers side and using a 22mm wrench break loose the jam nut. Loosen it a couple turns so that its no longer tight the outer tie rod.
20) On the drivers side, use an 18mm socket and ratchet to remove the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
21) Use a pickle fork and hammer to knock the outer tie rod from the knuckle.
22) When removing the outer tie rod from the drivers side, also count (and keep track of) the number of turns it takes to remove it.
23) Position a catch pan underneath the steering gear to catch any fluid that drains after the lines are disconnected.
24) Use the 18mm line wrench to remove the power steering lines from the steering gear and tuck out of the way.
25) Loosen the stabilier bar by positioning channel locks on the washer type nut located on top and holding it. Then use the 13mm socket and ratchet to turn the bolt on the bottom. It just needs to be loose enough to drop the stabilizer bar down to access the rack and pinion bolts. This needs to be done on the drivers side and passneger side.
26) Once those are loose, use the 10mm socket and ratchet to loosen and remove the bolts securing the stabilizer bar brackets.
27) Once the brackets are removed, you should be able to drop the stabilizer bar down.
28) Use the 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the grounding strap from the rack and pinion to the cross member.
29) Using the 15/16 wrench and the 15/16 socket and ratchet, loosen the nuts and remove the bolts securing the rack and pinion to the cross member.
30) Slide the rack and pinion down to the floor.
31) Remove the grounding strap from the old rack and pinion and transfer it to the new one.
32) Remove the dust cover / caps from the new rack and pinion.
33) Take the new O-Rings that came with the new rack and pinion and replace the old ones on both power steering lines on the vehicle.
34) Slide the new rack and pinion under the vehicle, properly position it and re-install the bolts and washers / nuts. Tighten and torque both to 136 ft. lbs
35) Re-install grounding strap back to crossmember.
36) Put the stabilizer bar back into place and secure and tighten the bracket bolts. Torque to 24 ft. lbs.
37) Tighten the stabilizer bar link bolts on the driver and passenger sides. Torque to 48 ft. lbs
38) Connect the power steering lines to the new rack and pinion.
39) Tighten using the 18mm line wrench.
40) Reinstall the steering shaft to the steering gear.
41) Re-install the pinch bolt and torque to 33 ft lbs.
42) Remove the jam nuts on the old rack and pinion and install in the new one.
43) Install the new outer tie rod ends by turning the same amount of turn it took to remove the old one.
44) Tighten the jam nut.
45) Place the outer tie rod end through the knuckle and install the nut on the bottom. The nut for the new tie rod is a 19mm. Torque to 33 ft. lbs.
46) Install the new cotter pin and use pliers to bend the ends.
47) Install the grease fitting on the outer tie rod and tighten using an 8mm socket and ratchet.
48) Using the 22mm wrench, tighten the jam nut.
49) Move to the drivers side and reinstall the jam nut if havent already.
50) Install the new drivers side outer tie rod ends by turning the same amount of turn it took to remove the old one.
51) Tighten the jam nut.
52) Place the drivers side outer tie rod end through the knuckle and install the nut on the bottom. The nut for the new tie rod is a 19mm. Torque to 33 ft. lbs.
53) Install the new cotter pin and use pliers to bend the ends.
54) Install the grease fitting on the outer tie rod and tighten using an 8mm socket and ratchet.
55) Using the 22mm wrench, tighten the jam nut.
56) Add grease to the outer tie rod grease fittings.
57) Re-Install the splash shield with the 5 bolts.
58) Install both front wheels, tighten the lug nuts, and lower the vehicle to the ground
59) Torque the lug nuts to 140 ft lbs.
60) Remove the wheel chocks.
61) Add fresh power steering fluid to the full mark.
62) Crank the vehice and let if run for a few minutes while you remove the rope securing the steering wheel.
63) Recheck the power steering fluid and make sure its still at the full mark.
64) To bleed the power steering system, Turn the steering wheel back and forth without hitting the stops.
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When installing the new rear end and it's not rechecked and adjusted, your new rear end will have the same problem as your old one had.
When setting the pinion position, many of the service manuals required a final pinion position check by using gauges that verified the dimension from the center line of the differential carrier (center line of ring gear) to the face of the pinion (button). This surface (button) is not used on all new gears for verifying the pinion position. The service tools will be used to establish the proper amount of shims required prior to installing the pinion gear. The final pinion position will be verified by using the GEAR CONTACT PATTERN METHOD.
The TOE of the gear tooth is the portion of the tooth surface at the end towards the center. The HEEL of the gear tooth is the portion of the tooth surface at the outer end. The TOP LAND of a gear tooth is the surface of the top of the tooth. Every gear has a characteristic pattern. When making pinion position changes, shims should be changed in the range of .002 inch (.05 mm) to .004 inch (.10 mm) until correct pattern has been obtained.
When a change is backlash is required, backlash shims should be changed in the range of 1 1/2 times the amount of backlash required to bring the gears into specification. For example, if the backlash needed to be changed by .004 inch (.10 mm), the shim pack should be changed by .006 inch (.15mm) as a starting point. The actual amount of backlash change obtained will vary depending upon the ratio and gear size.
High backlash is corrected by moving the ring gear closer to the pinion. Low backlash is corrected by moving the ring gear away from the pinion. These corrections are made by switching shims from one side of the differential case to the other.
When making changes, note that two variables are involved. Example: If you have the backlash set correctly to specifications and you change the pinion position shim, you may have to readjust the backlash to the correct specification before checking the pattern.
(1) Paint ring gear teeth with a marking compound to both the drive and coast side.
(2) Rotate ring gear one complete revolution in both directions while load is being applied with a large screwdriver or simular tool between the carrier casting and differential case flange.
Normal or desirable pattern. The drive pattern should be centered on the tooth. The coast pattern should be centered on the tooth, but may be slightly toward the toe. There should be some clearance between the pattern and the top of the tooth.
PATTERN MOVEMENTS
(1) Decreasing backlash moves the ring gear closer to the pinion.
- Drive pattern (convex side of gear) moves slightly lower and toward the toe.
- Coast pattern (concave side of gear) moves lower and toward the toe.
(2) Increasing backlash moves the ring gear away from the pinion.
- Drive pattern moves slightly higher and toward the heel.
- Coast pattern moves higher and towards the heel.
(3) Thicker pinion position shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion closer to the ring gear.
- Drive pattern moves deeper on the tooth (flank contact) and slightly toward the toe.
- Coast pattern moves deeper on the tooth and toward the heel.
(4) Thinner pinion position shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion further from the ring gear.
- Drive pattern moves toward the top of the tooth (face contact) and toward the heel.
- Coast pattern moves toward the top of the tooth and slightly toward the toe.
Ring and Pinion Installation Instructions
1. Remove the old gear set and thoroughly clean both the ring gear carrier and rear end housing with solvent. After cleaning, air dry all parts.
2. Always verify that you have the correct gear ratio that you have purchased. This can be checked by dividing ring gear tooth count by the pinion tooth count. e.g. (Ring gear tooth count 41 T, pinion gear Tooth count 11 T, 41divided by 11 = 3.73:1.
3. Many differential cases have many thousands of miles of service. Check all threads in the case for ware. It may be necessary to chase the treads to clean and align threads.
4. Check side bearing adjusters as they are often warped and out of shape making ring and pinion settings difficult. Replace as necessary.
5. Check ring gear back face for flatness. Generally after heat treating there may be a degree of taper. This may be rectified by lapping gear on sand paper on a glass flat plate. This will give you more even and uniform pattern when setting up you new gear set.
6. Careful attention should be give to blueprinting your rear end. Accurate clearancing will lead to a longer life for your unit.
7. All new parts should be thoroughly cleaned before assembly and checked for damage.
8. Examine the ring gear mounting surface for nicks or burrs which might prevent a flush mounting of the newly installed ring gear. Ring/Pinion tooth depth variations can result from a ring gear that is "cocked" on its mounting surface. If a ring gear spacer is to be used, also check it for surface imperfections. Nicks or burrs can be removed by using block-backed grit paper ora small file. Following material removal rewash in solvent and air dry. Mounting ring gear. Loctite ring gear bolts and torque to factory specifications.
9. All ring gear and pinions have been "Lapped" in sets and should never be mixed with another ring gear or pinion. Check to see serial numbers are the same on the ring gear and pinion.
10. Each gear ring gear and pinion is prerun and marked on the pinion face with its proper depth setting called the "Checking Distance". This dimension is from the face of the pinion to the axle center-line. A setting tool must be used to measure the checking distance. Pinion depth is adjustable by adding or subtracting shim thickness. Stay +/-.002 of the pinion dimension.
11. Once pinion depth is achieved using a new crush collar or preload shim pack set pinion bearing preload to 15 inch-pounds rotating torque with used bearings, and 25 inch pounds with new bearings. Once preload is set install the seal and loctite pinion nut.
12. Once the pinion gear is installed, position ring gear and carrier into housing to check backlash. Motive Gear and Motive Gear Performance ring gear and pinions are developed to be run at .008" to .012" back-lash for street gear sets.
13. Adjustments for backlash is done by spanner rings in the housing or shim packs behind the carrier bearing cups (GM) or cones (Dana). Always be sure carrier bearings are preloaded. The carrier should not fall out of the housing, but should have to be "tapped" in during final installation. Replace bearing caps and torque to factory specifications.
14. You are now ready to verify the tooth contact pattern. A gear marking compound should be used. Paint gear teeth with compound in several spots and rotate ring gear several revolutions. A tooth contact pattern will appear and should be similar to the pattern shown in. If the pattern is not in the approximate position shown, reset pinion depth and backlash to correct pattern. Pinion shims usually must be moved in .003 of an inch increments to notice a pattern change. If a pattern is heavy toe subtract shims, If a pattern is heavy heel add shims.
15. Fill the case with required amount of GL6 Torco 85W-140W with additive gear lube, and maintain the proper level at all times. Proper maintenance is a must to protect your safety and the working life of you gear set.
Torque Specifications
Ring Gear Bolts
3/8" x 7/8" RH 55-60 FT#
3/8" x 3/4" RH 45-50 FT#
3/8" ALL LH 45-50 FT#
7/16" ALL 60-65 FT#
1/2" ALL 100-110 FT#
Carrier Cap Bolts
7/16" (5/8" head) 60-65 FT #
1/2" (3/4" head) 80-85 FT #
When setting the pinion position, many of the service manuals required a final pinion position check by using gauges that verified the dimension from the center line of the differential carrier (center line of ring gear) to the face of the pinion (button). This surface (button) is not used on all new gears for verifying the pinion position. The service tools will be used to establish the proper amount of shims required prior to installing the pinion gear. The final pinion position will be verified by using the GEAR CONTACT PATTERN METHOD.
The TOE of the gear tooth is the portion of the tooth surface at the end towards the center. The HEEL of the gear tooth is the portion of the tooth surface at the outer end. The TOP LAND of a gear tooth is the surface of the top of the tooth. Every gear has a characteristic pattern. When making pinion position changes, shims should be changed in the range of .002 inch (.05 mm) to .004 inch (.10 mm) until correct pattern has been obtained.
When a change is backlash is required, backlash shims should be changed in the range of 1 1/2 times the amount of backlash required to bring the gears into specification. For example, if the backlash needed to be changed by .004 inch (.10 mm), the shim pack should be changed by .006 inch (.15mm) as a starting point. The actual amount of backlash change obtained will vary depending upon the ratio and gear size.
High backlash is corrected by moving the ring gear closer to the pinion. Low backlash is corrected by moving the ring gear away from the pinion. These corrections are made by switching shims from one side of the differential case to the other.
When making changes, note that two variables are involved. Example: If you have the backlash set correctly to specifications and you change the pinion position shim, you may have to readjust the backlash to the correct specification before checking the pattern.
(1) Paint ring gear teeth with a marking compound to both the drive and coast side.
(2) Rotate ring gear one complete revolution in both directions while load is being applied with a large screwdriver or simular tool between the carrier casting and differential case flange.
Normal or desirable pattern. The drive pattern should be centered on the tooth. The coast pattern should be centered on the tooth, but may be slightly toward the toe. There should be some clearance between the pattern and the top of the tooth.
PATTERN MOVEMENTS
(1) Decreasing backlash moves the ring gear closer to the pinion.
- Drive pattern (convex side of gear) moves slightly lower and toward the toe.
- Coast pattern (concave side of gear) moves lower and toward the toe.
(2) Increasing backlash moves the ring gear away from the pinion.
- Drive pattern moves slightly higher and toward the heel.
- Coast pattern moves higher and towards the heel.
(3) Thicker pinion position shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion closer to the ring gear.
- Drive pattern moves deeper on the tooth (flank contact) and slightly toward the toe.
- Coast pattern moves deeper on the tooth and toward the heel.
(4) Thinner pinion position shim with the backlash constant moves the pinion further from the ring gear.
- Drive pattern moves toward the top of the tooth (face contact) and toward the heel.
- Coast pattern moves toward the top of the tooth and slightly toward the toe.
Ring and Pinion Installation Instructions
1. Remove the old gear set and thoroughly clean both the ring gear carrier and rear end housing with solvent. After cleaning, air dry all parts.
2. Always verify that you have the correct gear ratio that you have purchased. This can be checked by dividing ring gear tooth count by the pinion tooth count. e.g. (Ring gear tooth count 41 T, pinion gear Tooth count 11 T, 41divided by 11 = 3.73:1.
3. Many differential cases have many thousands of miles of service. Check all threads in the case for ware. It may be necessary to chase the treads to clean and align threads.
4. Check side bearing adjusters as they are often warped and out of shape making ring and pinion settings difficult. Replace as necessary.
5. Check ring gear back face for flatness. Generally after heat treating there may be a degree of taper. This may be rectified by lapping gear on sand paper on a glass flat plate. This will give you more even and uniform pattern when setting up you new gear set.
6. Careful attention should be give to blueprinting your rear end. Accurate clearancing will lead to a longer life for your unit.
7. All new parts should be thoroughly cleaned before assembly and checked for damage.
8. Examine the ring gear mounting surface for nicks or burrs which might prevent a flush mounting of the newly installed ring gear. Ring/Pinion tooth depth variations can result from a ring gear that is "cocked" on its mounting surface. If a ring gear spacer is to be used, also check it for surface imperfections. Nicks or burrs can be removed by using block-backed grit paper ora small file. Following material removal rewash in solvent and air dry. Mounting ring gear. Loctite ring gear bolts and torque to factory specifications.
9. All ring gear and pinions have been "Lapped" in sets and should never be mixed with another ring gear or pinion. Check to see serial numbers are the same on the ring gear and pinion.
10. Each gear ring gear and pinion is prerun and marked on the pinion face with its proper depth setting called the "Checking Distance". This dimension is from the face of the pinion to the axle center-line. A setting tool must be used to measure the checking distance. Pinion depth is adjustable by adding or subtracting shim thickness. Stay +/-.002 of the pinion dimension.
11. Once pinion depth is achieved using a new crush collar or preload shim pack set pinion bearing preload to 15 inch-pounds rotating torque with used bearings, and 25 inch pounds with new bearings. Once preload is set install the seal and loctite pinion nut.
12. Once the pinion gear is installed, position ring gear and carrier into housing to check backlash. Motive Gear and Motive Gear Performance ring gear and pinions are developed to be run at .008" to .012" back-lash for street gear sets.
13. Adjustments for backlash is done by spanner rings in the housing or shim packs behind the carrier bearing cups (GM) or cones (Dana). Always be sure carrier bearings are preloaded. The carrier should not fall out of the housing, but should have to be "tapped" in during final installation. Replace bearing caps and torque to factory specifications.
14. You are now ready to verify the tooth contact pattern. A gear marking compound should be used. Paint gear teeth with compound in several spots and rotate ring gear several revolutions. A tooth contact pattern will appear and should be similar to the pattern shown in. If the pattern is not in the approximate position shown, reset pinion depth and backlash to correct pattern. Pinion shims usually must be moved in .003 of an inch increments to notice a pattern change. If a pattern is heavy toe subtract shims, If a pattern is heavy heel add shims.
15. Fill the case with required amount of GL6 Torco 85W-140W with additive gear lube, and maintain the proper level at all times. Proper maintenance is a must to protect your safety and the working life of you gear set.
Torque Specifications
Ring Gear Bolts
3/8" x 7/8" RH 55-60 FT#
3/8" x 3/4" RH 45-50 FT#
3/8" ALL LH 45-50 FT#
7/16" ALL 60-65 FT#
1/2" ALL 100-110 FT#
Carrier Cap Bolts
7/16" (5/8" head) 60-65 FT #
1/2" (3/4" head) 80-85 FT #
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To remove the c clips you need to remove the lock bolt from the pin in the spider gears and pull the pin and the gears out of the carrier. You can then push the axle to the center of the truck and remove the clips.
Pull the cover, remove the pinion shaft bolt (don't strip or break it!!) and pull the pinion shaft from the pinion gears, push the axle to the center and remove the c clip
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Axle Housing
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Raise and support the rear end on jackstands.
- For the 9 3 / 4 in. ring gear and the 10 1 / 2 in. ring gear axles, place jackstands under the frame side rails for support.
- Drain the lubricant from the axle housing and remove the driveshaft.
- Remove the wheel, the brake drum or hub and the drum assembly.
- Disconnect the parking brake cable from the lever and at the brake flange plate.
- Disconnect the hydraulic brake lines from the connectors.
- Disconnect the shock absorbers from the axle brackets.
- Remove the vent hose from the axle vent fitting (if used).
- Disconnect the height sensing and brake proportional valve linkage (if used).
- If used, remove the stabilizer shaft.
- Support the axle assembly with a hydraulic jack.
- Remove the nuts and washers from the U-bolts.
- Remove the U-bolts, spring plates and spacers from the axle assembly.
- Lower the jack and remove the axle assembly.
- Raise the axle assembly into position.
- Install the U-bolts, spring plates and spacers.
- Install the nuts and washers on the U-bolts. Tighten the nuts as follows:R series-bolts facing up: 125 ft. lbs. (170 Nm)R series-bolts facing down: 147 ft. lbs. (200 Nm)C/K series-100 and 200 models: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)C/K series-300 models without dual rear wheels or 7.4L engine: 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)C/K series-300 models with dual rear wheels or 7.4L engine without dual rear wheels: 109 ft. lbs. (148 Nm)C/K series-3500 heavy duty models: 207 ft. lbs. (280 Nm)
- Install the stabilizer shaft.
- Connect the height sensing and brake proportional valve linkage.
- Install the vent hose at the axle vent fitting.
- Connect the shock absorbers at the axle brackets.
- Connect the hydraulic brake lines.
- Connect the parking brake cable.
- Install the wheels.
- Install the driveshaft.
- Fill the axle housing.
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Axle Shaft, Bearing, and Seal
EXCEPT LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL
See Figures 1 through 6
Fig. Fig. 1: Remove the differential pinion shaft lockscrew
Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the pinion shaft
Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the C-lock from the inner (button) end of the shaft
- Support the axle on jackstands.
- Remove the wheels and brake drums.
- Clean off the differential cover area, loosen the cover to drain the lubricant, and remove the cover.
- Turn the differential until you can reach the differential pinion shaft lockscrew. Remove the lockscrew and the pinion shaft.
- Push in on the axle end. Remove the C-lock from the inner (button) end of the shaft.
- Remove the shaft, being careful of the oil seal.
- You can pry the oil seal out of the housing by placing the inner end of the axle shaft behind the steel case of the seal, then prying it out carefully.
- A puller or a slide hammer is required to remove the bearing from the housing.
- Pack the new or reused bearing with wheel bearing grease and lubricate the cavity between the seal lips with the same grease.
- The bearing has to be driven into the housing. Don't use a drift, you might cock the bearing in its bore. Use a piece of pipe or a large socket instead. Drive only on the outer bearing race. In a similar manner, drive the seal in flush with the end of the tube.
- Slide the shaft into place, turning it slowly until the splines are engaged with the differential. Be careful of the oil seal.
- Install the C-lock on the inner axle end. Pull the shaft out so that the C-lock seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear.
- Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and the pinion gears, aligning the lockscrew hole. Install the lockscrew.
- Install the cover with a new gasket and tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern.
- Fill the axle with lubricant.
- Replace the brake drums and wheels.
Fig. Fig. 4: Remove the axle shaft from the vehicle
Fig. Fig. 5: Use a puller to remove the oil seal
Fig. Fig. 6: Install the oil seal using a seal installer
See Figures 7 and 8
This axle uses a thrust block on the differential pinion shaft.
- Support the axle on jackstands.
- Remove the wheels and brake drums.
- Clean off the differential cover area, loosen the cover to drain the lubricant, and remove the cover.
Fig. Fig. 7: Positioning the case for the best clearance-semi-floating axle w/locking differential
Fig. Fig. 8: Aligning the lock-semi-floating axle w/locking differential
- Rotate the differential case so that you can remove the lockscrew and support the pinion shaft so it can't fall into the housing. Remove the differential pinion shaft lockscrew.
- Carefully pull the pinion shaft partway out and rotate the differential case until the shaft touches the housing at the top.
- Use a screwdriver to position the C-lock with its open end directly inward. You can't push in the axle shaft till you do this.
- Push the axle shaft in and remove the C-lock.
- Remove the shaft, being careful of the oil seal.
- You can pry the oil seal out of the housing by placing the inner end of the axle shaft behind the steel case of the seal, then prying it out carefully.
- A puller or a slide hammer is required to remove the bearing from the housing.
- Pack the new or reused bearing with wheel bearing grease and lubricate the cavity between the seal lips with the same grease.
- The bearing has to be driven into the housing. Don't use a drift, you might cock the bearing in its bore. Use a piece of pipe or a large socket instead. Drive only on the outer bearing race. In a similar manner, drive the seal in flush with the end of the tube.
- Slide the shaft into place, turning it slowly until the splines are engaged with the differential. Be careful of the oil seal.
- Keep the pinion shaft partway out of the differential case while installing the C-lock on the axle shaft. Put the C-lock on the axle shaft and carefully pull out on the axle shaft until the C-lock is clear of the thrust block.
- Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and the pinion gears, aligning the lockscrew hole. Install the lockscrew.
- Install the cover with a new gasket and tighten the bolts evenly in a criss-cross pattern.
- Fill the axle with lubricant.
- Replace the brake drums and wheels.
Full-Floating Axles
See Figures 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15
The procedures are the same for locking and non-locking axles.
The best way to remove the bearings from the wheel hub is with an arbor press. Use of a press reduces the chances of damaging the bearing races, cocking the bearing in its bore, or scoring the hub walls. A local machine shop is probably equipped with the tools to remove and install bearings and seals. However, if one is not available, the hammer and drift method outlined can be used.
- Support the axles on jackstands.
- Remove the wheels.
- Remove the bolts and lock washers that attach the axle shaft flange to the hub.
Fig. Fig. 9: Exploded view of the axle, hub and drum assembly-full-floating axle, 93/4 and 101/2 in.
Fig. Fig. 10: Removing the bearing adjusting nut-full-floating axle, 93/4 and 101/2 in.
Fig. Fig. 11: Removing the bearing outer cup-full-floating axle, 93/4 and 101/2 in.
Fig. Fig. 12: Tightening the adjusting nut-full-floating axle, 93/4 and 101/2 in.
Fig. Fig. 13: Exploded view of the axle and hub assembly-full-floating axle, 12 in.
Fig. Fig. 14: Removing the axle shaft-full-floating axle, 12 in.
Fig. Fig. 15: Removing the wheel bearing nut-full-floating axle, 12 in.
- Rap on the flange with a soft faced hammer to loosen the shaft. Grip the rib on the end of the flange with a pair of locking pliers and twist to start shaft removal. Remove the shaft from the axle tube.
- The hub and drum assembly must be removed to remove the bearings and oil seals. You will need a large socket to remove and later adjust the bearing adjustment nut. There are also special tools available.
- Disengage the tang of the locknut retainer from the slot or slat of the locknut, then remove the locknut from the housing tube.
- Disengage the tang of the retainer from the slot or flat of the adjusting nut and remove the retainer from the housing tube.
- Remove the adjusting nut from the housing tube.
- Remove the thrust washer from the housing tube.
- Pull the hub and drum straight off the axle housing.
- Remove the oil seal and discard.
- Use a hammer and a long drift to knock the inner bearing, cup, and oil seal from the hub assembly.
- Remove the outer bearing snapring with a pair of pliers. It may be necessary to tap the bearing outer race away from the retaining ring slightly by tapping on the ring to remove the ring.
- Drive the outer bearing from the hub with a hammer and drift.
- Place the outer bearing into the hub. The larger outside diameter of the bearing should face the outer end of the hub. Drive the bearing into the hub using a washer that will cover both the inner and outer races of the bearing. Place a socket on top of this washer, then drive the bearing into place with a series of light taps. If available, an arbor press should be used for this job.
- Drive the bearing past the snapring groove, and install the snapring. Then, turning the hub assembly over, drive the bearing back against the snapring. Protect the bearing by placing a washer on top of it. You can use the thrust washer that fits between the bearing and the adjusting nut for the job.
- Place the inner bearing into the hub. The thick edge should be toward the shoulder in the hub. Press the bearing into the hub until it seats against the shoulder, using a washer and socket as outlined earlier. Make certain that the bearing is not cocked and that it is fully seated on the shoulder.
- Pack the cavity between the oil seal lips with wheel bearing grease, and position it in the hub bore. Carefully press it into place on top of the inner bearing.
- Pack the wheel bearings with grease, and lightly coat the inside diameter of the hub bearing contact surface and the outside diameter of the axle housing tube.
- Make sure that the inner bearing, oil seal, axle housing oil deflector, and outer bearing are properly positioned. Install the hub and drum assembly on the axle housing, being careful so as not to damage the oil seal or dislocate other internal components.
- Install the thrust washer so that the tang on the inside diameter of the washer is in the keyway on the axle housing.
- Install the adjusting nut. Tighten to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm) while rotating the hub. Back off the nut 1 / 4 turn and retighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm) on models with the 11 inch ring gear and 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) on models with the 10 1 / 2 inch ring gear.
- Install the tanged retainer against the inner adjusting nut. Align the adjusting nut so that the short tang of the retainer will engage the nearest slot on the adjusting nut.
- Install the outer locknut and tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm). Bend the long tang of the retainer into the slot of the outer nut. This method of adjustment should provide 0.001-0.010 in. (0.0254-0.254mm) end-play.
- Place a new gasket over the axle shaft and position the axle shaft in the housing so that the shaft splines enter the differential side gear. Position the gasket so that the holes are in alignment, and install the flange-to-hub attaching bolts. Tighten to 115 ft. lbs. (156 Nm) on models with the 10 1 / 2inch ring gear and tighten the axle cap bolts on models with the 11 inch ring gear to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
To prevent lubricant from leaking through the flange holes, apply a non-hardening sealer to the bolt threads. Use the sealer sparingly.
- Replace the wheels
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Pinion Seal
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Semi-Floating Axles
See Figures 1 through 5
- Raise and support the truck on jackstands. It would help to have the front end slightly higher than the rear to avoid fluid loss.
- Matchmark and remove the driveshaft.
- Release the parking brake.
- Remove the rear wheels. Rotate the rear wheels by hand to make sure that there is absolutely no brake drag. If there is brake drag, remove the drums.
- Using a torque wrench on the pinion nut, record the force needed to rotate the pinion.
Fig. Fig. 1: Measuring the pinion rotating torque-semi-floating axles
Fig. Fig. 2: Scribed marks-semi-floating axles
Fig. Fig. 3: Removing the drive pinion nut-semi-floating axles
Fig. Fig. 4: Removing the drive pinion flange-semi-floating axles
Fig. Fig. 5: Installing the pinion seal-semi-floating axles
- Matchmark the pinion shaft, nut and flange. Count the number of exposed threads on the pinion shaft.
- Install a holding tool on the pinion. A very large adjustable wrench will do, or, if one is not available, put the drums back on and set the parking brake as tightly as possible.
- Remove the pinion nut.
- Slide the flange off of the pinion. A puller may be necessary.
- Centerpunch the oil seal to distort it and pry it out of the bore. Be careful to avoid scratching the bore.
- Pack the cavity between the lips of the seal with lithium-based chassis lube.
- Position the seal in the bore and carefully drive it into place. A seal installer is VERY helpful in doing this.
- Pack the cavity between the end of the pinion splines and the pinion flange with Permatex No.2® sealer, or equivalent non-hardening sealer.
- Place the flange on the pinion and push it on as far as it will go.
- Install the pinion washer and nut on the shaft and force the pinion into place by turning the nut.
WARNING
Never hammer the flange into place!
- Tighten the nut until the exact number of threads previously noted appear and the matchmarks align.
- Measure the rotating torque of the pinion under the same circumstances as before. Compare the two readings. As necessary, tighten the pinion nut in VERY small increments until the torque necessary to rotate the pinion is 3 inch lbs. (0.35 Nm) higher than the originally recorded torque.
- Install the driveshaft.
Full-Floating Axles
- Raise and support the truck on jackstands. It would help to have the front end slightly higher than the rear to avoid fluid loss.
- Matchmark and remove the driveshaft.
- Matchmark the pinion shaft, nut and flange. Count the number of exposed threads on the pinion shaft.
- Install a holding tool on the pinion. A very large adjustable wrench will do, or, if one is not available, set the parking brake as tightly as possible.
- Remove the pinion nut.
- Slide the flange off of the pinion. A puller may be necessary.
- Centerpunch the oil seal to distort it and pry it out of the bore. Be careful to avoid scratching the bore.
- Pack the cavity between the lips of the seal with lithium-based chassis lube.
- Position the seal in the bore and carefully drive it into place. A seal installer is VERY helpful in doing this.
- Place the flange on the pinion and push it on as far as it will go.
WARNING
Never hammer the flange into place!
- Install the pinion washer and nut on the shaft and force the pinion into place by turning the nut.
- On models with the 11 inch ring gear, tighten the nut to 440-500 ft. lbs. (596-678 Nm).
- On models with the 10 1 / 2 inch ring gear Tighten the nut until the exact number of threads previously noted appear and the matchmarks align.
- Install the driveshaft.
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FRONT Axle Shaft
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 and 2
Fig. Fig. 1: Front axle shaft assembly
Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the front axle shaft assembly
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Remove the wheel.
- Remove the locking hub.
- Remove the hub and bearing assembly. Refer to the procedures in this section.
- Remove the nuts and remove the caliper mounting bracket and splash shield.
- Tap the end of the spindle with a plastic mallet to break it loose from the knuckle. If tapping won't break it loose, you'll have to do the following:
- Thread the bearing locknut part way onto the spindle.
- Position a 2 or 3-jawed pull with the jaws grabbing the locknut and the screw bearing in the end of the axle shaft.
- Tighten the puller until the spindle breaks free. It will be very helpful to spray Liquid Wrench®, WD-40® or similar solvent around the spindle mating area and around the bolt holes. As the puller is tightened, tap the spindle with the plastic mallet. This often helps break the spindle loose.
- Pull out the axle shaft assembly.
- Place the spacer and a new seal on the axle shaft.
The spacer's chamfer points towards the oil deflector.
- Pack the spindle bearing with wheel bearing grease.
- Slide the axle shaft into the housing. When installing the axle shaft, turn the shaft slowly to align the splines with the differential.
- Place the spindle on the knuckle. Be sure the seal and oil deflector are in place.
- Install the caliper bracket and splash shield.
- Using new washers, install the nuts and tighten them to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
- Install the hub and rotor assembly. Adjust the wheel bearings.
- Install the locking hubs.
- Install the caliper and then install the wheel.
- Remove the axle shaft.
- Squeeze the ends of the trunnion bearings in a vise to relieve the load on the snaprings. Remove the snaprings.
- Support the yoke in a vise and drive on one end of the trunnion bearing with a brass drift enough to drive the opposite bearing from the yoke.
- Support the other side of the yoke and drive the other bearing out.
- Remove the trunnion.
- Clean and check all parts. You can buy U-joint repair kits to replace all the worn parts.
- Lubricate the bearings with wheel bearing grease.
- Replace the trunnion and press the bearings into the yoke and over the trunnion hubs far enough to install the lock rings.
- Hold the trunnion in one hand and tap the yoke lightly to seat the bearings against the lock rings.
- The axle slingers can be pressed off the shaft.
Always replace the slingers if the spindle seals are replaced.
- Replace the shaft.
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