It appears as though to replace the thermistor the unit will have to be
removed. I don't know where the board is but most every thing is
accessible at the outside panel.
I believe you said you had the same refrig as mine. Dometic RM2652? If so,
you don't have to pull out the refer. Here is how I did it: Cut the
connector of the old thermister off near the board (making sure it's the
right one of course). Using a small piece of strong tape (I used duct tape
cut into a small strip), tape the end of the old cut-off wire to the head of
the new thermister being very careful not to make large bulge. Go inside
the RV and gently pull the thermister from the inside of the refrigerator
out. If you feel any resistance, stop and pull it back out from the access
side while looking with a flash light to see what it might be hanging on.
Mine went through the second time after repositioning the wire on the access
panel side. I did have to give it one pull a little harder at the very end
as it came through the wall of the refrig (this is why you want it to be as
thin of a tape bond as possible). The repercussions of it breaking is having
to pull back the refrig. If you can't get it through, re-solder the
connector and wait until you have time to pull back the refrig.
Is the lead between the board and thermistor a wire or is it a tube. On my wiring diagram it appears to be two white wires at the board end connectors P-2, both wires numbered 9,the way they are circled indicates they are in a sheath, The thermistor is item U. But the wires or tubes shows that they plug in to the control board. When I would wire commercial buildings and have to pull wire through conduits we would use a slick soap like stuff, would that help when pulling the wire through the refrig wall.
-----------
It's two white wires with shething over it. The connector, wire, and
thermister comes perfabbed if you buy a new one. All you have to do is plug
it into the board (no soldering required). The only reason you need to cut
off the old connector is because the connector will not fit through the
thermister hole in the refrig wall.
On my wiring diagram it
Slick soap sounds like a good idea. Yeah, that likely would help. I didn't
put anything on the wires when I pulled it though.
The first time I had trouble with mine, it was still within the
manufacture's warranty but not the coach warranty. I new it was the spark
module and needed it fixed before a trip that day. I just went down and
bought the module for 40 bucks and installed it myself on my way out of
town. Problem solved and I didn't have to leave it at the shop for a day. I
probably would have had them fix it for the thermister/cooling issue though
but it was definitely outside of the warranty at that time so I did it
myself..
thermister comes perfabbed if you buy a new one. All you have to do is plug
it into the board (no soldering required). The only reason you need to cut
off the old connector is because the connector will not fit through the
thermister hole in the refrig wall.
On my wiring diagram it
appears to be two white wires at the board end connectors P-2, both wires
numbered 9,the way they are circled indicates they are in a sheath, The
thermistor is item U. But the wires or tubes shows that they plug in to
the control board. When I would wire commercial buildings and have to pull
wire through conduits we would use a slick soap like stuff, would that
help when pulling the wire through the refrig wall.
Slick soap sounds like a good idea. Yeah, that likely would help. I didn't
put anything on the wires when I pulled it though.
I think this thing is still under warranty I'll check with the dealer
where I have to get the parts, they are the same people that sold me the
RV. According to my paperwork they are warrantied for three years I sure
would hate to have to hook up and tow it over there. The parts department
manager is aware that I am full time in it.
The first time I had trouble with mine, it was still within the
manufacture's warranty but not the coach warranty. I new it was the spark
module and needed it fixed before a trip that day. I just went down and
bought the module for 40 bucks and installed it myself on my way out of
town. Problem solved and I didn't have to leave it at the shop for a day. I
probably would have had them fix it for the thermister/cooling issue though
but it was definitely outside of the warranty at that time so I did it
myself..
----------
I just came back from the dealer and they said I could go home and get the 5er this morning and they would fix it immediately. But there is a storm brewing so I scheduled it in on Wednesday morning. They said it would take no more than an hour. They said it probably was the thermistor.
---------
Before you invest in a lot of replacement parts let's check one thing. Does the fins in the refrigerator have a glob of ice on them? if so, defrost it where there is no ice at all on it. Make sure the thermistor is being held close to the fin on the right side. Make sure a coke can or something has not pushed the thermistor lead wire out of place.
This advice is based on personal experience four hours old.
For three days I noticed things becoming colder, set a thermometer on the top shelf, it dropped to +18. Performed the above task and turned refrig back on, temperature has been holding at 37deg on the top shelf. Might have a fix in progress.
This advice is based on personal experience four hours old.
For three days I noticed things becoming colder, set a thermometer on the top shelf, it dropped to +18. Performed the above task and turned refrig back on, temperature has been holding at 37deg on the top shelf. Might have a fix in progress.
Fix is not to assured. Found out the placement of the thermistor is so critical, it must be bent in such a manner that it is as close to the fin as possible.
