Sock, nail, or rag caught between tubs.
Pump is faulty.
Poor belt tension.
Motor fault.
Transmission got faulty.
If the motor spins fine w/o the belts on then your machine motor is ok. The pump pulley should turn easily by hand. It's not easy to do w/o out a spanner wrench (It can be loosened w/ a hammer and screw driver), but you need to get the inner tub out. Remove the agitator to get started. I find stuff in between tubs a lot. Belt tention is adjusted by moving pump. If all that's ok you may have a bad tranny.
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The disassembly procedure:---
The top cap of the agitator can be pried off to expose the nut that holds the agitator in place (1/2in).
Loosen bolt and pull. It may take some effort they get stuck sometimes. Remove the Two phillip head screws at the bottom front to remove front panel. Remove the 3/8in bolts (2) 1 in each top front corner and remove bleach hose from top. Pivot top back out of your way. Remove tub ring. Remove bell (metal dome) to expose tub nut. Once you get that off the inner tub is free. It's rarely easy.The tub nut is a reverse thread.
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For more help.Refer the repair guide as follows:----
It doesn't spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt.
If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
The motor coupler may be broken. Many washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
The drive motor may be defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
The transmission may not be shifting properly. Older washers have a transmission with an electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
The spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call a qualified appliance repair technician.
