rear seat headreast popped up on mercedes clk500?

There is a instruction mentioned in manual, with proper diagrams. Please click the link below and read and follow instructions:---

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/73bbchevy/2010-03-07_173957_209rollbar.pdf

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How to remove door hinges on kitchenaid electric double oven?

All the images are quite big, so you will not see complete image.To see complete image follow this procedure.

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

This is the exact picture of the hinge:---

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Open the KitchenAid oven door fully. Push each hinge latch down toward the door with your finger. The hinge latch is the lever in the middle of each door hinge.

Close the door as far as possible. The hinge lever prevents the door from closing all the way.

Place your hands on each side of the oven door. Lift up on the door while pushing the door toward the oven. This disengages the door hinges from the oven. Pull the door completely away from the oven.

how to remove seat from Suzuki GSX-R 600?

Click this link directly:----

http://www.speedohealer.com/your_pics/gsxr600_01/sh_install_gsxr600_01.pdf

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Yamaha FZ 400 voltage checking diagram?

Please read this.The diagram is very big in size.So you will not see it full.to see big view and full diagram.Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

how to fill transmission fluid in 2006 Honda Accord?

For Honda accord automatic

1)3/8 racket (the drain plug is a square shape that the ratchet fits right into no sockets needed)
2)A new drain plug washer p/n 90471-px4-000
3)4 quarts of transmission fluid (ATF-Z1) p/n 08200-9001
4)torque wrench
5)3/8 extension
6)drain pan

Warm car up till the radiator fan comes on,than turn off and look under the front of the car you will see the bottom of the transmission on the right side (towards the passanger side) you will see the bolt going in on the side (the one with the square box shape)loosen with the 3/8rachet and than put your drain pan under and use the 3/8 extension on it to remove the bolt so you dont get oil on yourself.clean off the drain plug and remove and install a new drain plug washer (flat side of the washer goes towards transmission case the bevel goes towards the drain plug)
install drain bolt and tighten to 36 ft lbs.Refill transmission thought the dip stick to the upper mark (go slow and take your time you can always add more but its hard to remove if over filled)
Make sure you install the fill dip stick into the groove on the fill tube.Start engine and check for any leaks.Take for a ride around the block and recheck the level.

Very simple task, similar to changing your oil but less messy because there is no filter to remove.

Here are the tools that you need:



2 quarts Amsoil Syncromesh Transmission Fluid
Rachet set (I believe the fill plug was 18mm)
Suction pump
Drain pan
30mins time
Level ground

Step 1: Jack up the car on the driver side
Step 2: Loosen the fill plug first. Why? Because if you drained the trans and cant break the fill plug loose, you are screwed.

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

Step 3: Place pan under the drain hole and let it drain.
Step 4: Put the drain plug back in.
Step 5: Using the suction pump, suck up the amsoil fluid and squeeze into the fill hole.

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

Step 6: Repeat step 5 until fluid is dripping out of the hole. (~1.6 Quarts)
Step 7: Put the fill plug back and tighten the two bolts.
Step 8: Clean up, you are done!

Took around 30mins to complete.

Error code p0172 and p0174 on ford vehicle?

P0172 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description

System Too Rich (Bank 1)

What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 1 detected a rich condition (too little oxygen in the exhaust). The Bank 1 is the side of the engine that has cylinder #1.

Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a misfire.

Causes

A code P0172 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
• There could be a vacuum leak.
• There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem

Possible Solutions

Possible solutions include:

• Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
• Cleanthe MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
• Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches
• Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail
• Check the fuel injectors, they may be dirty. Use fuel injector cleaner or get them professionally cleaned/replaced.
• Check for an exhaust leak before the first oxygen sensor (this is unlikely to cause the problem, but it is possible).------------

P0174 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description

System Too Lean (Bank 2)

What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 2 detected a lean condition (too much oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 2 is generally the side of the engine that doesn't have cylinder #1.

Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a lack of power, detonation (spark knock), and/or a hesitation/surge on acceleration.

Causes

A code P0174 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

• The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filter can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled. There is also an issue with some vehicles where the MAF sensors leak the silicone potting material used to protect the circuitry.
• There could be a vacuum leak downstream of the MAF sensor.

Possible Solutions

Possible solutions include:

• In the vast majority of cases, simply cleaning the MAF sensor does the trick. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling
• Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary
• Check for a dirty fuel filter and proper fuel pressure.

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A Ford P0171 is a LEAN code for cylinder bank 1, and P0174 is a LEAN code for cylinder bank 2. These codes commonly occur on many ford vehicles, and are set when the power-train control module (PCM) sees the air/fuel mixture is running too lean (too much air, not enough fuel).

When the check engine Light comes on, either one of these codes, or both, may be found when a code reader or scan tool is plugged into the vehicle diagnostic connector. IF the vehicle is driven long enough, typically both codes will be set.

A P0171 lean code for bank 1 is the cylinder bank on the RIGHT (passenger) side of the engine on Ford vehicles with a V6 or V8 engine and rear-wheel drive.

A P0174 lean code for bank 2 is the cylinder bank on the LEFT (driver) side of the engine on Ford vehicles with a transverse-mounted V6 engine and front-wheel drive. This code is not set on four cylinder engine (no bank 2).

WHAT A LEAN CODE MEANS

A lean fuel condition may exist if the engine is sucking in too much air and/or the fuel systems is not delivering enough fuel. If bad enough, a lean fuel condition may cause lean misfire, a rough idle, hesitation or stumble when accelerating, and/or poor engine performance.

Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor that is not reading airflow accurately, an EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow (because the EGR differential pressure sensor that monitors EGR flow is faulty and is under-reporting EGR flow).

If the problem is not enough fuel, the underling cause may be a weak fuel pump , restricted fuel filter, leaky fuel pressure regulator or dirty fuel injectors.

DIRTY MAF SENSOR

One of the most common causes of Ford P0171 and P0174 lean codes is a dirty mass airflow (MAF) sensor. The MAF sensor is located in the air inlet tube
just ahead of the throttle body . The MAF sensor should be protected from outside dust and debris by the air filter, but sometimes the air filter doesn't fit real tight inside the housing and allows unfiltered air into the engine. Dirt can stick to the MAF sensor wire and form a coating that slows the response of the sensor to changes in airflow. The MAF sensor can also be contaminated by fuel vapors that back up through the intake manifold and throttle body when the engine is shut off. The vapors can leave a waxy coating on the sensor wire. This causes the MAF sensor to under report airflow, which in turn misleads the powertrain control module (PCM) so it doesn't add enough fuel to maintain a properly balanced air/fuel ratio. As a result, the engine runs lean and sets a P0171 and/or P0174 code (see Ford TSB 98-23-10 for details).

If the MAF is dirty, the fix is easy enough: just clean or replace the MAF sensor. In many instances, the MAF sensor can be successfully cleaned by spraying the sensor element with electronics cleaner. Do not use any other type of cleaner as this may damage the sensor.

Disconnect the air inlet tube just ahead of the sensor, and then spray the electronics cleaner through the screen at the wire element in the center of the little MAF sensor. Let the cleaner soak in for several minutes, then give it another shot of cleaner. Let it sit another five minutes, then reconnect the air inlet tubing and start the engine.

If the lean codes keep coming back, the MAF sensor may have to be replaced if the engine does not have a vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem.

VACUUM LEAKS

Another common cause of Ford P0171 and P0174 ean codes is an engine vacuum leak. Ford TSB 04-17-4 details procedures for checking fuel trim and looking for vacuum leaks.

On 3.8L Fords with a split-plenum intake manifold, the port gaskets and isolator bolt assemblies for the upper plenum can deteriorate over time and leak air, often as a result of oil being sucked into the intake manifold through the PCV system. Also the vacuum hose that connects the fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold can swell and leak vacuum where the hose connects to the manifold. Ford TSB 03-16-1 says the fix involves several steps: remove the upper manifold plenum and replace the original gaskets and bolts with revised ones, replace the front valve cover with a revised valve cover that reduces the amount of oil vapor sucked into the PCV system, inspect and replace the fuel pressure regulator hose, and finally, reflash the PCM so it is less sensitive to lean fuel conditions.

BAD DPFE SENSOR

Ford p0171 AND p0174 lean codes can also be set by a bad EGR differential pressure sensor. These sensors have a very high failure rate once a vehicle has more than about 60,000 miles on the odometer or is more than five or six years old.

The DPFE sensor is mounted on the engine, and is attached with two rubber hoses to the tube that routes exhaust gas to the EGR valve. The original equipment sensor has an rectangular aluminum housing about three inches long. Corrosion inside the sensor reduces its sensitivity to EGR flow, causing it to under-report EGR flow. The PCM responds by increasing EGR flow, which may keep the EGR valve open longer than usual creating a lean condition in the engine. Thus, a bad sensor may set a P0401 code (insufficient EGR flow), or it may not set an EGR code but a P0171 and/or P0174 lean code instead.

The cause of the P0401 code in most cases turns out to be a bad DPFE sensor, not an EGR valve problem or an EGR valve that is plugged up with carbon (though this can also set a P0401 code). An aftermarket replacement DPFE sensor costs less than $50 and usually gets rid of not only the P0401 code, but also the P0171 and P0174 codes, too.

Admiral side by side Refrigerator, it leaks water?

The detail is for both frost free refrigerators and manual defrost refrigerators:---------------

The problem is that the drain hole in the drain pan under your evaporator coil is clogged up with gunk.

You simply need to unclog that drain hole so that the melt water from the defrost cycle drains into that tray underneath the refrigerator which the melt water is supposed to drain into. The one you say is devoid of water.

Here is a blog I wrote up years ago that explains how frost free fridges work. Read it and keep in mind that the drain hole in the evaporator drain pan on your fridge is clogged up. That will explain where the water is coming from.

Also, I wrote this for a person who didn't know the first thing about fridges, so it may seem too basic...

The mystery of your frost free fridge revealed:
or "What every owner of a frost free fridge should know":

The way to tell the difference between a frost free fridge and a manual defrost fridge is that a frost free fridge will have separate freezer and fresh food compartments, whereas a manual defrost fridge will have a freezer box at the top of the fresh food compartment. The fundamental difference between a "frost free" fridge and a manual defrost fridge is that a frost free fridge has an automatic method of defrosting itself.

In a manual defrost fridge the refrigerant evaporates and absorbs heat as it flows through the channels molded right into the evaporator box at the top of the fresh food compartment. Since the refrigerant is evaporating in those molded channels, the evaporator box will be the coldest thing in a manual defrost fridge, and that is where frost will accumulate. You defrost such a fridge by unplugging it or turning the thermostat to "defrost" or "off" and waiting for the frost on the freezer compartment to melt.

In a frost free fridge, there will be an evaporator coil which is hidden out of sight which serves the same purpose as the "freezer box" in a manual defrost fridge. The refrigerant evaporates in that evaporator coil, absorbing heat as it does, thereby making the evaporator coil very cold. There will also be an "evaporator fan" which sucks air through that evaporator coil and blows most of the cold air into the freezer compartment, and a little of it into the fresh food compartment. Some frost free fridges have adjustable baffles that allow you to set the proportion of cold air sent to each compartment. The reason why the freezer compartment gets colder than the fresh food section is because it normally has more cold air flow through it.

Every time you open the door of the fresh food compartment or freezer compartment of your fridge, you let some cold dry air out of your fridge and some warm moist air in. The moisture in the air you let in is what causes frost to form on the freezer compartment of a manual defrost fridge or the evaporator coils of a frost free fridge. Ice and frost forming on the evaporator coils of a frost free fridge reduce the efficiency of the fridge because they act as insulation and prevent heat transfer between the cold aluminum coils and the air the evaporator fan is circulating over those coils and throughout the fridge. And, of course, frost reduces the amount of air flow through the coils.

This "automatic defrost system" consists of three components: the defrost timer, the defrost heater and the defrost thermostat. These three components work together to melt the frost off the evaporator coil.

Let's look at each of the three components in the automatic defrosting system of a typical frost free fridge:

1. THE DEFROST TIMER:
Just like you have a timer in a clothes washer that controls the valves and motors at each stage of the clothes washing cycle, every frost free fridge will have a defrost timer. The defrost timer in a frost free fridge is much simpler than the timers in washing machines or dish washers because there are fewer things in a frost free fridge for the timer to control. The defrost timer's job is to shut off the fridge's compressor and evaporator fan (together) for about 20 to 35 minutes every 8 to 12 hours and divert the power to the defrost heater instead.

2. THE DEFROST HEATER:
The defrost heater is just an electric coil heater that's positioned close to the evaporator coils so the radiant heat melts the frost off the evaporator coils. The melt water then drips down and is carried by a sloping drip pan to a drain. A rubber hose usually running along the back of the fridge carries this melt water down into a receiving pan sitting on top of, or around, the usually warm compressor motor. The water is then re-evaporated back into the room by the waste heat from the compressor. You can redirect this melt water into a drain and use your frost free fridge to dehumidify your house a little.

3. THE DEFROST THERMOSTAT:
Once the frost is all melted off the evaporator coils, continued heating results in a rapid rise in temperature in the vicinity of the evaporator coils. The job of the defrost thermostat is to detect that temperature rise and break the circuit to the defrost heater, thereby preventing further heating and possible damage to the plastic and foam parts near it. (This is normally accomplished by simply wiring the defrost thermostat in series with the defrost heater.) Once the defrost thermostat breaks the circuit to the defrost heater, the fridge will then just sit there and do nothing at all until the end of the defrost cycle when the defrost timer shuts off power to the defrost circuit and restores power to the compressor and fan circuit once again.

Actually, not to put too fine a point on it, but once the defrost cycle is over, the defrost timer DOESN'T actually turn on the compressor and fan. That's because the fridge might not need any cooling right then. At the end of the defrost cycle, the defrost timer restores power to the fridge's thermostat (more correctly called a "cold control"). The thermostat then closes the circuit to the fridge's compressor and evaporator fan only if the fridge needs cooling.

In the rest of this post, the word "thermostat" will be used for both the cold control and the defrost thermostat, but it should be obvious from the context which thermostat is being referred to.

So, the defrost timer switches power between the defrost heater and the fridge's thermostat (or "cold control"), and the thermostat then inturrupts that power or allows it to flow to the compressor and evaporator fan simultaneously.

So, typically, both the evaporator fan and the compressor motor will both be running (or both be not running) at the same time. If the compressor is running, but you don't detect any breeze whatsoever in the freezer compartment with your hand (or by the smoke rising from a lit cigarette or piece of smoldering cotton string), then it indicates a problem with the evaporator fan not working, and therefore no cold air being blown into the freezer and fresh food compartments.

Similarily, if the evaporator fan is blowing air, but the compressor is not running, it could be a problem with the compressor motor, perhaps the starting relay which starts the compressor motor.

Having the compressor and the evaporator fan both off at the same time is normal. The fridge may be cold and the thermostat has shut off the cooling circuit. Alternatively, the fridge could be in a defrost cycle. However, if both the compressor and evaporator fan are off for what seems like an unreasonably long time, and the food in your freezer is starting to melt, then there's a good liklihood that the defrost timer is STUCK in defrost mode.

AND THIS IS WHERE I COME BACK TO THE SUBJECT AT HAND.

The defrost timer location will be different on every fridge, so you have to find out where it is on your make and model.

Defrost timers will have their output shaft exposed so that if you mark the position of the shaft on the timer with a felt pen, you can check it an hour or two later to confirm that the timer shaft is turning. Also, having the output shaft of the timer exposed allows an appliance repairman to manually advance the defrost timer to check the operation of the defrost heater and defrost thermostat to see if they're working. This is normally done by turning the output shaft of the defrost timer with a screw driver, but since you can damage the timer by turning that shaft backwards the screwdriver slot will be designed in such a way that the shaft can really only be turned in one direction with a screw driver.

If you ever notice that your frost free fridge has suddenly stopped working completely, it's worth advancing the defrost timer to see if the fridge is stuck in defrost mode. If you hear a "click" and the fridge comes back to life, then the problem was that the defrost timer was stuck, probably in the defrost mode. That tells you it's a good idea to replace your defrost timer before that happens again.

If, on the other hand, if the defrost timer is stuck in the "run" mode, or the defrost heater isn't working, the usual result will be frost forming around the cold air vents in the freezer compartment, and frost forming in your frost free fridges freezer compartment. In that case, advance the defrost timer until the compressor and fan shut off, indicating that the defrost timer is now diverting power to the defrost heater instead. Try manually advancing the defrost timer to perform several defrost cycles in a row to melt the accumulated frost. If doing that doesn't help, then the defrost heater is probably not working and needs to be replaced. Normally, a repairman will also replace the defrost thermostat at the same time as he replaces the defrost heater because the cost of the defrost thermostat is only 2 or 3 dollars. So, replaceing it at the same time as the defrost heater is mostly a matter of preventative maintenance. Those 2 or 3 dollars could save a $50 or $60 service call a few months down the road.

Finally, if you ever see water dripping from the roof of the fresh food compartment of your frost free fridge, the problem is that the melt water from the defrost cycle isn't draining away. Most often the problem here is that dirt has clogged the drain hole in the drip pan under the evaporator coils. There will normally be a cover of some type in the freezer compartment of your fridge. Removing that cover exposes the fan and evaporator coil (which is easily damaged because of all the thin aluminum fins covering it's surface). By poking a flexible (stranded) wire into the drain hole of the drip pan under the evaporator coil, you can usually unclog the drain hole and allow the melt water to drain away as it should.

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This is just a guide of how the Admiral side by side refrigerator works.

The alternator belt routing diagram for 1985 Volvo 240 DL?

Serpentine belt routing diagram below:-------------

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Please note:------ That some of the diagrams which you are seeing below are actually very big.So they are not seen full.To see the full big image of the belt routing diagram.Please do as follows:------

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

1985

Volvo 240

Timing Belt Diagrams

Drive Belt Diagrams

Please note:------ That some of the diagrams which you are seeing below are actually very big.So they are not seen full.To see the full big image of the belt routing diagram.Please do as follows:------

Right click on the image and select option "open image in new web" if the image is not seen full or its very small to see.-----------

how to remove water pump housing on aurora oldsmobile?

Click the link below:---

http://aurorah.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=1stgen&thread=2861&page=1#30460

How to change water pump housing 1998 aurora oldsmobile?

The water pump in your 1998 Oldsmobile Aurora is mounted onto the front of the engine and is rotated by a pulley. The pulley is part of the entire serpentine belt system. The pump draws coolant into the engine block through the lower radiator hose, and circulates the coolant through the engine block. The coolant continues its circulation through the engine and out to through the water pump and lower radiator hose.

The procedure to replace water pump is as follows:---

Park the vehicle and allow it to fully cool before performing the water pump replacement repair. Raise the hood, put on your safety glasses and remove the radiator cap to relieve the pressure. Disconnect the negative battery cable using a crescent wrench, for added safety.

Place the drain pan below the radiator drain plug located on the bottom-left side, when facing the engine. Reach under the front end and loosen the drain plug to partially drain the radiator. Drain the coolant to a level just below the bottom of the water pump assembly. Re-tighten the drain plug.

Remove the fan shroud (safety shield) using a socket wrench. Detach the engine fan and fan clutch assembly from the pulley by removing the mounting bolt. Be careful not to drop or damage the fan clutch unit.

Locate the pulley tensioner used to loosen the serpentine belt for removal. Loosen the pulley tensioner using a serpentine belt removal tool by turning it counterclockwise. Hold the center tensioner bolt clockwise to release tension and remove the belt from the water pump housing cover. The tensioner will return to its regular tension once released.

Remove the four bolts mounting the pulley to the water pump unit using the socket wrench and extension as necessary.

Disconnect the lower radiator and heater hoses attaching at the water pump by releasing the squeeze-type clamps. Take out the 11 retaining bolts mounting the water pump to the engine block. Carefully note the location of each bolt removed, because they are on different lengths.

Gently tap the water pump using a rubber mallet to break the seal, then remove the unit. Remove the old gasket using a gasket scraper, using care not to allow any debris to enter the engine opening.

Apply a continuous bead of gasket sealant onto the replacement gasket. Place the gasket on the water pump opening and make sure that the mounting bolt holes are properly aligned. Apply another bead of sealant onto the remaining side of the gasket.

Install the replacement water pump and secure it in place by screwing in a few bolts in a staggered pattern. Put in the remaining bolts and tighten them all, again using a staggered pattern.

Attach the lower radiator and heater hoses to the water pump and secure in place with their squeeze-type clamps.

Connect the belt pulley to the water pump and screw in place. Loosen the pulley tensioner by turning it counterclockwise and split on the serpentine belt, then release the tensioner.

Carefully connect the engine fan and fan clutch assembly from the belt pulley. Reconnect the fan shroud (safety shield) and reconnect the battery cable.

Pour the drained antifreeze (coolant) back into the radiator and start the engine. Allow the engine to run for several minutes to remove any trapped air within the system. Replace the radiator fill cap and check for leaks at all connections.

How to re-learn Buick Park Avenue car key?

1) Insert a valid mechanical coded unlearned ignition key into the ignition lock cylinder and turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. The SECURITY indicator illuminates for the length of the auto learn timer (10 minutes).
2) When the auto learn timer expires (the SECURITY indicator turns off) turn the ignition switch to OFF and remove the key.
3) Wait 10 seconds.
4) Repeat steps 1-3 two more times (for a total of thirty minutes).
5) Insert the newly learned key into the ignition lock cylinder and turn the ignition switch to the RUN position. The SECURITY indicator remains off indicating the new ignition key was learned,then start the vehicle.

---------------------------

But if this procedure is not helping, then it can be problem with the ignition lock cylinder.

You may have a fault with the security system in your vehicle with one of the components most commonly the cylinder that reads the key.In some cases the computer can just lose its memory on the key and the key can be re learned in order for the vehicle to start again.

Follow the procedure mentioned above to see if it will re learn the key and start again.If it does then you should be good to go from here.

If it does not then the security system will have to be tested to locate the failed component and then that component replaced to correct this condition here.-----------------

Does your cars ignition key have a small black chip in it? If so you may have an ignition lock cylinder problem. The lock cylinder has a couple of small wires that move with the cylinder when it is rotated, over time these can break (sometimes they break inside the wire insulation and are hard to diagnose). If you have an ohm meter its not too hard to check. Pull the lower panel under the drivers side of the dash and you will find a fairly large electrical connector with a screw in the middle holding the two halfs together. Remove the screw (7mm 1/4 drive socket) and seperate the two halfs. Find the bright orange coated wire that splits into two thin white wires and goes into the loose half of the connector. Have someone hold the key for you and put one lead of the ohm meter on each side of the key being sure that you are not touching the metal parts of the leads or the chip in the key. Get the resistance (ohms) reading. Then put the key fully into the ignition lock cylinder. Next put one lead of the meter on each of the two small white wires (they will be next to each other) you should read close to what you read from the key. If you do read the same or very close to the key, rotate the lock cylinder from off to run and then to crank. The reading should stay close to the key reading. If it goes out of limits (open circuit) you have a bad lock cylinder and it will need to be replaced.

What is a pass key security system?

The Pass-Key, Pass-Key II, or VATS, as it's called in earlier GM vehicles, uses a resistor mounted in the key blank to confirm that the correct ignition key is being used to start the engine. Many people call the resistor pellet a "chip" due to the common misconception that it is some sophisticated digital circuit to identify the key to the car. Not quite. It is not a "chip" of silicon as is customarily used for integrated circuits, but merely a block of carbon appropriately sized to have a desired electrical resistance.-----------------

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The PASS -key module controls the output to the starter enable circuit and the fuel enable circuit. If the module does not send the proper signal to the PCM , the PCM does not allow fuel to be provided to the engine. If the wrong key resistance is sensed the module will not enable the starter circuit. The security light on the dash will tell you where the malfunction is. If the light flashes or stays on all the time, the most likely problem is broken wires at the ignition lock.

When the alarm beeps the car will not start after that, this is because

the key has a pelet on it that has a code. When the computer reads the wrong code, it dosent let the starter move and dosent let fuel through the motor
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So try re-learning the key, but if that is not helping, then you will have to take the car to local Buick dealer and they will reprogram the key and ignition cylinder chip.If the ignition cylinder chip is got malfunctioned, then it will be replaced.And this will solve the problem.----------