REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figure 1
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.
- Raise the vehicle and support safely.
- Remove the rear wheels.
- Disconnect the parking brake cable from the rear brake assembly.
- Disconnect the brake tubes from the hoses and unclip the brake tubes from the axle housing. Make sure to plug the brake lines, otherwise brake fluid will continue to leak out of the system and the remaining fluid could become tainted. Disconnect the rear wheel speed sensors, if equipped with anti-lock brakes.
- If equipped, disconnect the link from the suspension leveling sensor from the track bar. Remove the rear air spring, if so equipped.
- Using a floor jack, support the weight of the axle.
- Unbolt the shock absorbers and remove the track bar-to-axle pivot bolt. Suspend the track bar with a wire.
- Lower the axle until the spring and isolator assemblies can be removed, then remove them from the vehicle.
- Carefully pull the axle out from under the vehicle.
- At this point in time, the brake assemblies can be removed from the axle assembly. .
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rear crossmember assembly
- Position the axle under the vehicle, then raise the axle with a floor jack. Be careful to not allow the axle to fall off of the floor jack.
- Attach the pivot bushing hanger brackets-to-frame rail. Tighten the bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
- Install the springs and isolators. For more details, refer to the spring installation procedure located earlier in this section.
- Raise the axle and loosely install the shock absorber and track bar through bolts.
- Install the brake assemblies onto the rear axle.
- Attach the brake hose and parking brake cable to the rear caliper (disc brakes), or rear brake cylinder (drum brakes), and suspension arm. Install the brake hose mounting bracket to the caliper support.
- Route the parking brake cable through the hanger bracket and lock the housing end into the bracket. Install the cable end into the intermediate connector.
- Install the brake hose and fitting into the bracket and install the lock. Attach the brake tube assembly to the hose fitting and tighten it to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
- Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts until snug.
- Lower the vehicle until some of its weight is resting on the tires, then tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
- Lower the vehicle completely to the ground. Tighten the lower shock absorber bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm). Tighten the track bar bolt to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
- Bleed the brake system.
Premier and Monaco
See Figure 2
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
- Remove the rear wheels.
- Remove the parking brake cables from the body support.
- Disconnect and plug the brake hoses at the axle.
- Remove the shock absorbers. For more details, refer to the shock absorber removal procedure located earlier in this section.
- Support the axle assembly with a floor jack, then remove the support bracket bolts. Lower the axle assembly and pull it out from under the vehicle.
Fig. Fig. 2: The removed rear crossmember/axle assembly-Premier and Monaco vehicles
- Position the axle under the vehicle and raise it into place with a floor jack.
- Install and tighten the support bracket bolts to 68 ft. lbs. (92 Nm).
- Connect the brake hoses at the axle.
- Connect the parking brake cables.
- Install the shock absorbers. Tighten the upper shock bolt to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm) and the lower bolt to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm).
- Remove the floor jack from under the rear axle assembly.
- Install the rear wheels and tighten the lug nuts until snug.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground, then tighten the lug nuts to the 63 ft. lbs. (85 Nm) for steel wheels and to 90 ft. lbs. (122 Nm) for aluminum wheels.
- Bleed the brake system and adjust the parking brake cable.
REPLACEMENT
See Figures 1 and 2
REMOVAL- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.
- Raise the car and support it securely. Remove the wheel(s).
- On rear disc brake-equipped vehicles, remove the caliper and rotor. Support the caliper out of the way with strong wire or cord. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the hydraulic hose. For more details, refer to the rear disc brake caliper removal procedure in Brakes .
- Remove the grease cap, cotter pin, nut lock, retaining nut and outer wheel bearing.
- Carefully pull the brake drum and outer bearing off the spindle. Do not drag the inner bearing or grease seal over the stub axle (the thread bearing and oil seal may be damaged.) Using an appropriate tool, remove the grease seal and inner bearing from the drum or hub. Discard the old grease seal-a new seal should be used when reinstalling the inner bearing.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the drum (above) and disc (below) brake and bearing assemblies
- Thoroughly clean all old grease from the outer and inner bearings, bearing cups and hub cavity.
- To clean the bearings, soak them in an appropriate cleaning solvent.
- Strike the flat surface of the bearing inner race against a hardwood block several times.
- Immerse the bearings in solvent between the blows to jar grease loose and wash old particles of hardened grease from the bearings.
- Repeat this procedure until the bearings are clean.
- Bearings can be dried using compressed air, but do not spin the bearings.
- After cleaning, oil the bearings with engine oil.
- Check the old bearings for damage as follows:
- Insert the previously oiled bearing into its appropriate cup, apply pressure to the bearing while rotating it to test them for pitting and roughness.
- Replace all worn or defective bearings with new ones.
- If the bearings show signs of pitting or roughness, they should be replaced.
- Bearings must be replaced as a set; both the cup and the bearing need to be replaced at the same time.
- If the used bearings are suitable for further use, remove the engine oil from the bearings using an appropriate solvent, then dry the bearings.
- To repack the bearings, use a Multi-Purpose NLGI Grade 2 EP Grease such as Mopar® or equivalent. Place the bearings in a clean covered container until ready for installation. If a bearing packer is not available, hand pack the grease into all cavities between the cage and rollers. Make sure to completely fill the bearings with grease (when hand packing the bearings, you can never have too much grease packed into it).
Fig. Fig. 2: Locations of the various bearing components inside a hub; brake drum mounted bearings are similar
- If the bearings and cups are to be replaced, remove the cups from the drum or hub using a brass drift or suitable removal tool.
- Install the new bearing cups with the an appropriate bearing cup installation tool.
- Install the inner bearing in the grease coated hub and bearing cup, then install new grease seals (inner and outer) using an appropriate seal installation tool.
- Coat the hub cavity and cup with grease.
- Before installing the hub or drum assembly, inspect the stub axle and seal surface for burrs or roughness. Smooth out all rough surfaces with emery paper.
- Coat the stub axle with the bearing grease.
- Carefully slide the hub or the drum assembly over the stub axle.
Do not drag the seal or inner bearing over the threaded area of the stub axle.
- Install the outer bearing, thrust washer and nut.
- Tighten the wheel bearing adjusting nut to 20-25 ft. lbs. (27-34 Nm) while rotating the hub or drum assembly. This seats the bearings.
- Back off the adjusting nut 1 / 4 turn (90°), then tighten the adjusting nut only finger-tight.
- Position the nut lock over the bearing adjusting nut with one pair of slots in line with the cotter pin hole in the stub axle, and install a new cotter pin.
- Install the grease caps.
- Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts until snug.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Tighten the lug nuts to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
front wheel drive vehicles use a flexible beam axle with trailing links and coil (or air) springs. The blade type trailing arms, attached to body mounted pivots, provide fore and aft location of the suspension while a Track Bar provides lateral location.
Located in line with the spindles, an open channel section beam axle assures that the rear tires remain parallel to each other and essentially perpendicular to the road surface. While being able to twist as one wheel moves vertically with respect to the other.
Roll resistance is provided partly by the axle's resistance to twist. But primarily by a torque tube or rod depending (on the rear suspension) running through the channel and attached rigidly to its end plates by welding. Because the torque tube or rod is an integral part of the axle assembly, it cannot be individually replaced.
One shock absorber on each side is mounted outside the coil spring and attached to the body and the beam axle. Wheel spindles are bolted to the outer ends of the axle and can be individually replaced if necessary.
Rear wheel alignment changes require the use of shims between the spindle and the axle end plates.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the trailing arm rear suspension
Fig. Fig. 2: The supplemental automatic air load leveling system enhances the trailing arm rear suspension
Fig. Fig. 3: The optional automatic air suspension is a completely different system from the regular trailing arm rear suspension system
See Figures 1 and 2
For bleeding of the Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), refer to the ABS bleeding procedure located later in this section.
The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. You will need an assistant for this job.
Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system. It contains moisture and corrosion products and should, therefore, always be replaced with fresh fluid.
- The sequence for bleeding is right rear wheel, left front wheel, left rear wheel, then right front wheel for Chrysler front wheel drive vehicles without an ABS system. Remove the vacuum from the vacuum booster by applying the brakes several times. Do not run the engine while bleeding the brakes.
- Clean all the bleeder screws. You may want to give each one a shot of penetrating solvent to loosen it; seizure is a common problem with bleeder screws, which then break off, sometimes requiring replacement of the part to which they are attached.
- Fill the master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid.
Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air. Don't leave the master cylinder or the fluid container uncovered any longer than necessary. Be careful handling the fluid-it will damage the vehicle's paint.
Check the level of the fluid often when bleeding, and refill the reservoirs as necessary. Don't let them run dry, or you will have to repeat the process.
- Attach a length of clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw on the wheel cylinder. Insert the other end of the tube into a clear, clean jar half filled with brake fluid.
- Have your assistant slowly depress the brake pedal. As this is done, open the bleeder screw until the brake fluid starts to flow through the tube. Then, close the bleeder screw before the brake pedal reaches the end of its travel. After the bleeder valve is fully closed, have your assistant slowly release the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the expelled fluid.
- Repeat the procedure on the other three brake cylinders/calipers, checking the lever of brake fluid in the master cylinder reservoir often.
After finishing, there should be no feeling of sponginess in the brake pedal. If there is, either there is still air in the line, in which case the process must be repeated, or there is a leak somewhere, which, of course, must be corrected before the car is moved. After all repairs and service work is finished, roadtest the vehicle for proper operation.
Fig. Fig. 1: Use a bottle of clean brake fluid and a clear hose when bleeding the brakes
Fig. Fig. 2: The front bleeder screws are located on the inner, top side of the front calipers
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the rear disc brake assembly-
You'll need a metric size Allen wrench (4mm) to perform this operation.
Fig. Fig. 2: Before disassembling the caliper components, familiarize yourself with their location and mounting position
Fig. Fig. 3: When the caliper is lifted off of the rear disc, the outboard pad will remain on the brake adapter
Fig. Fig. 4: Mount the new outboard pad on the brake adapter and the new inboard pad on the caliper
Fig. Fig. 5: The brake pads are easily identifiable by their backside markings
- Slightly loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.
- Raise rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands.
- Remove the rear wheels.
- There is an access plug on the inboard side of the caliper that looks like an ordinary bolt. It is located just under the parking brake cable lever. Clean the plug and the area around it to keep dirt out of the caliper and then remove it.
- Install the 4mm Allen wrench into the access hole and turn it counterclockwise to retract the pads from the disc. Turn the retractor a few turns: just until there is daylight between the disc and the pads.
- Remove the anti-rattle spring by prying it off the outside of the caliper with a small, blunt instrument. Be careful to pry outward on the spring only far enough to release it; if the spring is pryed excessively, it may be damaged.
- Clean the guide pin heads and the areas around them of dirt, then loosen them. Pull them out just far enough to free the caliper from the adapter, if it is not necessary to replace the caliper bushings. If the bushings are to be replaced, remove the guide pins completely.
- Lift the caliper (and the inboard pad, which will remain with it) upward and away from the braking disc and then suspend it securely on a piece of wire to prevent putting excessive stress on the brake hose.
- Pull the inboard pad away from the caliper piston to remove it. Pull the outboard pad off of the caliper adapter.
In the following step, be careful to retract the piston very slowly and carefully and by using only a minimum of force. The use of excessive force will damage the retraction and actuation shafts.
- Insert the Allen wrench into the rear access hole and retract the piston all the way by turning the wrench very gently and only until the rotating effort very slightly increases.
- Disconnect the brake line from the caliper, then immediately plug the brake line.
- Remove the brake caliper from the vehicle.
- Install a new inboard brake pad to the bore of the caliper piston. Then, install a new outboard pad, marked with either an L or R , according to the side of the vehicle you are working on. This pad is installed by sliding it onto the caliper adaptor.
- Lower the caliper over the disc and outboard pad. Gently and cautiously turn the guide pins in order to start them in their threads without cross-threading them. Use a minimum amount of force and allow the pins to find their own angle so the threads will not be damaged. Tighten the guide pins to 18-26 ft. lbs. (25-35 Nm).
- Install the anti-rattle spring onto the caliper. Then, insert the Allen wrench through the access hole and turn the retraction shaft clockwise (viewing from the inboard side) just until there is a slight amount of tension felt, and the clearance between the pads and disc is removed. Then, loosen (counterclockwise) the shaft 1 / 3 (120°) turn.
- Attach brake line to the rear brake caliper. Tighten the rear brake line fitting to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm). Bleed the brake system.
New seal washers must always be used when installing the brake hose to the caliper.
- Install the rear wheels and install the lug nuts until snug.
- Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque listed in the specification chart in Suspension & Steering .
- Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure that the brake pads seat against the rotor. The pedal must give resistance at the normal position before attempting to drive the car. Drive the car at moderate speeds in an isolated area in order to apply the brakes several times to test the system.
See Figures 6, 7 and 8
All brake pins, shims and other parts removed must be reinstalled in the the proper location. Record their locations before removing any brake hardware. On vehicles equipped with ABS, refer to the necessary service procedures later in this section.
Fig. Fig. 6: After removing the wheels, loosen and remove the 2 attaching bolts from the caliper assembly
Fig. Fig. 7: Install the inboard pad into the caliper so that the retaining clip is inserted into the piston bore
Fig. Fig. 8: When the outboard pad is installed into the caliper, make sure that the retaining clip arms are seated correctly on the caliper fingers
- Remove some of the fluid from the master cylinder.
- Slightly loosen the rear wheel lug nuts.
- Raise the vehicle and support safely on jackstands.
- Remove the rear wheels.
- Remove the hold-down spring, if equipped.
- Remove the caliper mounting pin bolts. Lift the caliper off the rotor assembly.
- Remove the outboard pad by prying the shoe retaining clip over the raised area of the caliper. Slide the pad down and off of the caliper.
- Pull the inboard pad away from the piston until the retaining clip is free from the piston cavity.
Support the caliper with strong wire or cord from the vehicle frame to prevent the weight of the caliper from damaging the flexible hose.
- If the caliper is to be overhauled (rebuilt), perform the following:
- Place a small piece of wood between the piston and caliper fingers.
- Carefully depress the brake pedal to hydraulically push the piston out of the bore. The brake pedal will fall away when the piston has passed the bore opening. Then prop the brake pedal to any position below the first inch (25mm) of pedal travel: this will prevent the loss of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
- If both rear calipers are to be removed and overhauled, disconnect the flexible brake line at the frame bracket after removing the piston. Plug the brake tube and remove the piston from the opposite caliper, using the same process as above for the first piston removal.
- Disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper.
- For the overhaul, mount the caliper in a bench-mounted vise.
- If the caliper is simply going to be replaced with a new one, disconnect the flexible brake hose from the caliper. Immediately plug the brake hose, to stop any brake fluid leakage and keep the fluid from becoming contaminated.
- Connect the brake tube to the caliper. Tighten the brake hose-to-caliper banjo bolt to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm).
New seal washers must always be used when installing the brake hose to the caliper.
- Use a large C-clamp, slowly compress the piston back into the caliper bore.
- Install the inner pad to the caliper by centering the retaining clamp in the caliper piston bore and seating the pad against the piston.
- Install the outer pad by sliding the retaining clip over the caliper fingers. Be sure that the brake pad is installed on the caliper so that the retaining clip is past the raised area on the caliper fingers.
- Position the caliper over the rotor so the caliper engages the adaptor correctly (the lower tabs on the brake pads and the casting projections on the caliper are under the adapter rail). Tighten the guide pin bolts to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm).
- Install the hold-down spring, if removed.
- Refill the master cylinder as necessary.
- Install the rear wheels and install the lug nuts until snug.
- Lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque listed in the specification chart in Suspension & Steering .
- Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure that the brake pads seat against the rotor. The pedal must give resistance at the normal position before attempting to drive the car. Drive the car at moderate speeds in an isolated area in order to apply the brakes several times to test the system.
See Figures 15 and 16
Rear disc brake calipers are not overhauled, but are replaced on most vehicles. Check with local Auto Supply store or Dealership for the availability of service related parts. Only the dust boots and guide pin bushings are serviced, as described here. If a new caliper assembly complete with dust boots and guide pin bushings is to be installed, make sure to transfer usable pads and related parts and replace those which are worn.
- Disconnect and plug the brake line. Disconnect the parking brake cable retaining clips from the hanger bracket and caliper. Disconnect the cable at the parking brake lever. Then, remove the caliper.
- Check the caliper dust boot and inboard pad area for piston seal leaks. If there is a visible leak, the caliper must be replaced (they are not serviceable).
Fig. Fig. 15: Use the Special Tools (C-4171 and C-4689, or their equivalents) to install the new dust boot
Fig. Fig. 16: After the bushings are installed into the caliper, install the Teflon® sleeves into the bushings
- Inspect the dust boot and the caliper pin bushings. Replace them if they are damaged, dry, or embrittled.
- Clean the area around the dust boot with alcohol or a suitable solvent and wipe it dry. Remove the dust boot retainer with a finger or a blunt instrument and remove the dust boot from the caliper and piston grooves and discard it.
- Clean the grooves in the piston and caliper and then coat a new boot with clean brake fluid, leaving a heavy coating inside. Position the boot over the piston and into the grooves of both piston and caliper. Install a boot retainer over the groove in the caliper.
- Pry the bushings from the caliper with a small, dull tool. Discard the bushings and Teflon® sleeves.
- Remove the Teflon® sleeves from new bushings. Install the bushings by putting pressure on their flanges with the fingers to press them in until seated. Reinstall the Teflon® sleeves.
- Install the caliper as described above. Connect the brake hose, torquing the banjo bolt to 1929 ft. lbs.
- Bleed the brake system. Pump the brake pedal several times to ensure that the brake pads seat against the rotor. The pedal must give resistance at the normal position before attempting to drive the car. Drive the car at moderate speeds in an isolated area in order to apply the brakes several times to test the system.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
- Remove the brake caliper and pads as described earlier in this section.
Do not disconnect the rear brake hose and make sure to hang the caliper from the vehicle's frame with strong wire or cord.
- The rear brake rotor is held in place by the wheel and wheel nuts. In some cases, the rotor is also held onto the rear axle hub with 2 or 3 retaining nuts (on the wheel lug studs).
- The 1988 models (except Premier and Monaco) have a rear brake adapter which must be removed before the rotor can be pulled off of the hub. Remove the 2 mounting bolts from the rear and separate the adapter from the brake assembly.
- Before removing the rotor, matchmark it and one adjacent wheel stud so it may be installed in the same position.
- After removing the retaining nuts, if applicable, the rotor can simply be pulled off the studs.
- Slide the new rotor onto the hub studs so that the matchmarks line up. If retaining nuts were used to retain the rotor, install the retaining nuts until snug.
- If applicable, install the brake adapter. Tighten the adapter mounting bolts to 130-190 ft. lbs. (176-258 Nm).
- Install the brake caliper and pads. For more details, refer to the caliper installation procedure located earlier in this section.
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
Inspect the disc for scoring, rust, impregnated lining material and ridges, and replace or machine it if serious problems in these areas are visible. Take the following specific measurements:
- With the wheel removed, install the lug nuts to hold the disc snugly in place against the hub. Then, mount a dial indicator so it will read runout about 1 in. (25.4mm) from the outer edge of the rotor. Zero the indicator, rotate the disc, and read the maximum reading. Compare the reading with the specification in the brake specification chart located at the end of this section.
Fig. Fig. 1: Use Special Tool SP-1910, or a similar dial indicator, to check the disc for run-out (warpage/wobble), but ...
Fig. Fig. 2: ... before condemning the disc as defective, also check the hub for run-out in a similar manner
Fig. Fig. 3: The rear disc brake rotors have the minimum allowable thickness stamped right on them
- If the specification is excessive, remove the rotor and repeat the process, this time mounting the indicator so as to measure the runout of the hub. This must not exceed 0.003 in. (0.076mm). If it does, the hub requires replacement. If hub runout meets the specification and disc runout does not, replace the disc or have it machined, if it can be trued up while maintaining minimum thickness specifications (stamped on an unmachined surface). Note that this specification includes 0.030 in. (0.76mm) wear beyond the maximum machining limit of 0.030 in. (0.76mm) from original thickness.
- Use a micrometer to measure disc thickness at 4 locations. Thickness variation must not exceed 0.0005 in. (0.013mm). If thickness variation can be corrected by machining the disc while maintaining maximum thickness limits, this may be done.
All brake discs or rotors have markings for MINIMUM allowable thickness cast on an unmachined surface or an alternate surface. Always use this specification as the minimum allowable thickness or refinishing limit. Refer to a local auto parts store or machine shop if necessary shop where brake disc or rotors are resurfaced.
If the brake disc or rotor needs to be replaced with a new part, the protective coating on the braking surface of the rotor must be removed with an appropriate solvent.
REAR DRUM BRAKES:------
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Except Premier and Monaco
See Figure 1
- Slightly loosen the rear lug nuts.
- Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the drum cap, cotter pin, washer, locknut and adjusting nut, then remove the brake drum.
- Disconnect the adjuster lever spring.
- Disconnect the brake line from the rear brake cylinder. Plug the brake line to keep the brake fluid from becoming contaminated.
- Disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake lever. Compress the parking brake cable clip (using a 14mm box wrench over the clip compresses all three retaining fingers). Pull the cable out of the backing plate, then remove the backing plate from the vehicle.
- Remove the backing plate attaching bolts and washers, then separate the backing plate and spindle from the rear support trailing arm.
Fig. Fig. 1: The backing plate and stub axle is attached to the trailing arm by 4 bolts-except Premier and Monaco
- Lubricate the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate with brake lubricant or moly grease.
- Insert the parking brake cable into the backing plate.
- Install the backing plate, gasket and spindle onto the rear suspension member. Tighten the backing plate bolts to 53 ft. lbs. (71 Nm).
- Attach the parking brake cable to the brake lever.
- Connect the brake tube to the rear wheel cylinder. Tighten the brake fitting to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm).
- Install the brake drum. For more details, refer to the brake drum installation procedure located earlier in this section.
- Adjust and bleed the brake system before driving anywhere.
- Adjust the parking brake after adjusting the service brakes.
- Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts until snug.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
Premier and Monaco
See Figure 2
- Slightly loosen the rear lug nuts.
- Raise and safely support the rear of the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the hub cap and nut, then remove the brake drum and axle hub as one assembly.
- Remove the brake shoes (or the shoes can be removed after the backing plate is removed from the rear axle assembly). For more details on the removal of the rear brake shoes, refer to the brake shoe procedure earlier in this section.
- Disconnect the brake line from the rear brake cylinder. Plug the brake line to keep the brake fluid from becoming contaminated.
- Remove the wheel cylinder bolts and remove the cylinder from the backing plate. The wheel cylinder can also be removed after the backing plate is removed from the vehicle.
- Remove the axle shaft bolts, then remove the axle shaft.
- Compress the parking brake cable clip. Pull the cable out of the backing plate, then remove the backing plate from the vehicle.
- If equipped, remove the stiffener plate from the backing plate.
Fig. Fig. 2: The Premier and Monaco also use 4 mounting bolts, but they thread in from the backside of the assembly
- Lubricate the brake shoe contact points on the backing plate with brake lubricant or moly grease.
- If applicable, install the stiffener plate on the backing plate. Tighten the attaching bolts/nuts to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm).
- The brake shoes and wheel cylinder can be installed on the backing plate at either this time, or after the backing plate is installed on the rear axle assembly.
- Position the backing plate and axle shaft on the trailing arm, then install the attaching bolts. Tighten the attaching bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (64 Nm).
- Install the brake shoes and wheel cylinder, if not all ready performed.
- Adjust the brake shoes, then install the brake drum and hub on the axle.
- Secure the hub to the axle shaft with a new nut. Tighten the axle hub nut to 123 ft. lbs. (167 Nm).
- Install the cap in the axle hub.
- Bleed the brake system. For more details, refer to the bleeding procedures earlier in this section.
- Install the wheel and tighten the lug nuts until snug.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Outer Tie Rod End
See Figures 1 and 2
- Raise the vehicle and support it with jackstands.
- Loosen the jam nut which connects the tie rod end to the rack.
- Mark the tie rod position on the threads.
- Remove the tie rod cotter pin and nut.
- Using a puller, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.
- Unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Count the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the rack assembly.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the outer tie rod assembly
Fig. Fig. 2: Use a puller such as Special Tool C-3894-A, or the equivalent, to remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle
- Install a new tie rod end assembly (install new grease fitting, if so equipped) the same of number of turns it took to remove the old one. Tighten the jam nut to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
- Insert the tie rod stud into the lower steering knuckle hole. Install the tie rod stud nut and tighten to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).
- Install a new cotter pin to the tie rod stud. Bend the cotter pin ends tightly against the tie rod stud.
- Have the wheel alignment checked by a qualified automotive service facility.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Without Air Bag System
See Figures 1 and 2
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Straighten the steering wheel so the front tires are pointing straight forward.
- Remove the horn pad. Label, then disconnect any electrical wire leads (horn, cruise control, etc.).
- Remove the steering wheel hold-down nut and remove the damper, if equipped. Matchmark the steering wheel to the shaft.
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the steering wheel and electrical connectors
Fig. Fig. 2: Use a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel from the steering column shaft
- Using a suitable steering wheel puller (Special Tool C-3428-B or equivalent), pull the steering wheel off of the shaft.
Do not bump or hammer on the steering column shaft to remove the wheel.
To install:- Place the steering wheel on the steering column shaft with the master splines and the matchmarks aligned.
- Install the steering wheel-to-column shaft retaining nut. Tighten the nut to 52 ft. lbs. (70 Nm) for Premier and Monaco vehicles and to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm) for all other vehicles.
Do not force the steering wheel onto the shaft by driving it on with a heavy object. Pull the steering wheel down onto the column shaft using only the steering wheel retaining nut.
- Install the horn pad onto the steering wheel.
- Connect the battery.
With Air Bag System
See Figures 3 through 11
A steering wheel puller (Special Tool C-3428-B or equivalent) and a scan tool (DRB II or equivalent) will be needed for this procedure.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Straighten the steering wheel so the front tires are pointing straight forward.
- Remove the 4 nuts located on the back side of the steering wheel that attach the air bag module to the steering wheel.
Fig. Fig. 3: Exploded view of the steering wheel, air bag module and electrical connectors
- Lift the module off of the wheel, then detach the electrical connectors. Remove the speed control switch, if equipped.
- If equipped with the set screw, place it in the clockspring to ensure proper positioning when the steering wheel is removed.
- Remove the steering wheel hold-down nut and remove the damper, if equipped. Matchmark the steering wheel to the shaft.
- Using a suitable steering wheel puller (Special Tool C-3428-B or equivalent), pull the steering wheel off of the shaft.
Fig. Fig. 4: Disconnect the battery and wait at least 2 minutes, then remove the air bag retaining bolts ...
Fig. Fig. 5: ... then lift the air bag module off of the steering wheel and ...
Fig. Fig. 6: ... unplug the electrical connector from the back of the module
Fig. Fig. 7: Remove the speed control panel switch (if equipped) and unplug the electrical connector
Fig. Fig. 8: Unplug and label any other wiring connectors which will interfere with steering wheel removal
Fig. Fig. 9: Loosen and remove the steering wheel-to-steering column retaining bolt ...
Fig. Fig. 10: ... then remove the steering wheel using a specially designed steering wheel puller
Fig. Fig. 11: Do not hammer on the steering wheel to remove it-doing so could damage the column
- Position the steering wheel on the steering column. Make sure the flats on the hub of the steering wheel are aligned with the formations on the clockspring.
- Pull the air bag and speed control connectors through the lower, larger hole in the steering wheel and pull the horn wire through the smaller hole at the top. Make sure the wires are not pinched anywhere.
- Install the damper, if equipped.
- Install the hold-down nut and tighten it to 45 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
- If equipped with a clockspring set screw, remove the screw and place it in its storage location on the steering wheel.
- Connect the horn wire.
- Connect the speed control wire and install the speed control switch.
- Connect the clockspring lead wire to the air bag module and install module to steering wheel.
Do not allow anyone to enter the vehicle from this point on, until this procedure is completed.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
- Connect the DRB II to the Air bag System Diagnostic Module (ASDM) connector located to the right of the console.
- From the passenger side of the vehicle, turn the key to the ON position.
- Check to make sure nobody has entered the vehicle. Connect the negative battery cable.
- Using the DRB II, read and record any active fault data or stored codes.
- If any active fault codes are present, perform the proper diagnostic procedures before continuing.
- If there are no active fault codes, erase the stored fault codes; if there are active codes, the stored codes will not erase.
- From the passenger side of the vehicle, turn the key OFF , then ON and observe the instrument cluster air bag warning light. It should come on for 6-8 seconds, then go out, indicating the system is functioning normally. If the warning light either fails to come on, or stays lit, there is a system malfunction and further diagnostics are needed.
