REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1989-91 Models
STANDARD COLUMNS
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the turn signal switch.
- Remove the retaining screw and lift the ignition lock cylinder lamp out of the way.
- Remove the bearing housing.
- Remove the coil spring.
- Remove the lock plate from the shaft.
- Remove the 2 retaining screws and lift the lock lever guide plate to expose the lock cylinder release hole.
- Insert the key and place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position. Remove the key.
- Insert a thin punch into the lock cylinder release hole and push inward to release the spring-loaded lock retainer. At the same time, pull the lock cylinder out of the column.
- When installing the lock cylinder, make sure it is in the LOCK position. Press it into the column. It will snap into place. The remainder of assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the tilt lever and turn signal lever.
- Remove the turn signal switch.
- Using the key, place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position. Remove the key.
- Insert a thin punch in the slot next to the switch mounting screw boss and depress the spring latch at the bottom of the slot. Hold the spring latch depressed and pull the lock cylinder out of the column.
- To install, place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position and press it into place in the column. It will snap into position. The remainder of assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
1992-96 Models
See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- If equipped with a tilt column, remove the tilt lever by turning it counterclockwise.
- Remove the upper and lower covers from the column.
- Remove the ignition switch mounting screws. Use a tamper resistant Torx® bit (Snap-On® TTXR20A2, or equivalent) to remove the screws.
- Pull the switch away from the column. Release the connector locks on the 7 terminal wiring connector, then remove the connector from the ignition switch.
- Release the connector lock on the 4 terminal wiring connector, then remove the connector from the ignition switch.
- Turn the key to the LOCK position. Using a TTXR20A2, or equivalent, remove the key cylinder retaining screw and bracket.
- Rotate the key clockwise to the OFF position. The key cylinder will unseat from the ignition switch. When the key cylinder is unseated, it will be approximately 1 / 8 in. (3mm) away from the ignition switch halo light ring. DO NOT attempt to remove the key cylinder at this time.
- With the key cylinder in the unseated position, rotate the key counterclockwise to the LOCK position and remove the key.
- Remove the key cylinder from the ignition switch.
- Engage the electrical connectors to the ignition switch and make sure the switch locking tabs are fully seated.
- Before attaching the ignition switch to a tilt steering column, the transmission shifter must be in the PARK position. Also the park lock dowel pin and the column lock flag must be properly indexed before installing the switch as follows:
- Place the transmission shifter in the PARK position
- Place the ignition switch in the LOCK position. The switch is in the lock position when the column lock flag is parallel to the ignition switch terminals.
- Position the ignition switch park lock dowel pin so it will engage the steering column park lock slider linkage.
- Apply a light coating of grease to the column lock flag and the park lock dowel pin.
- Place the ignition switch against the lock housing opening on the steering column. Ensure that the ignition switch park lock dowel pin enters the slot in the park lock slider linkage in the steering column.
- Install the retaining bracket and ignition switch mounting screws, then tighten the screws to 22-30 inch lbs. (3-4 Nm).
- If the vehicle is equipped with a tilt steering column, install the tilt lever.
- With the key cylinder and the ignition switch in the LOCK position, insert the key cylinder into the ignition switch until it bottoms.
- Insert the ignition key into the lock cylinder. While pushing the key cylinder in toward the ignition switch, rotate the ignition key until the end of travel.
- Install the retaining screw into the bracket and lock cylinder. Tighten the screw to 22-30 inch lbs. (3-4 Nm).
- Install the steering column covers, then the tilt lever, if equipped.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
- Check for proper operation.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Standard Columns
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the turn signal switch.
- Remove the retaining screw and lift the ignition lock cylinder lamp out of the way.
- Remove the bearing housing.
- Remove the coil spring.
- Remove the lock plate from the shaft.
- Remove the 2 retaining screws and lift the lock lever guide plate to expose the lock cylinder release hole.
- Insert the key and place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position. Remove the key.
- Insert a thin punch into the lock cylinder release hole and push inward to release the spring-loaded lock retainer. At the same time, pull the lock cylinder out of the column.
- Remove the 3 retaining screws and lift out the ignition switch.
- Position the ignition switch in the center detent position ( OFF ).
- Place the shift lever in PARK.
- Feed the wires down through the space between the housing and jacket. Position the switch in the housing and install the 3 retaining screws.
- Place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position and press it into place in the column. It will snap into position.
- The remainder of assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Tilt Columns
See Figure 4
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the tilt lever and turn signal lever.
- If equipped, remove the turn signal lever.
- Remove the turn signal switch.
- Using the key, place the lock cylinder in the LOCK position. Remove the key.
- Insert a thin punch in the slot next to the switch mounting screw boss and depress the spring latch at the bottom of the slot. Hold the spring latch depressed and pull the lock cylinder out of the column.
- Place the ignition switch in the ACCESSORY position and remove the mounting screws. Lift off the switch. The ACCESSORY position is the one opposite the spring-loaded end position.
- First, install the lock cylinder. Place the cylinder in the LOCK position and push it into the housing. It will snap into place.
- Rotate the lock cylinder to the ACCESSORY position.
- Fit the actuator rod in the slider hole and position the switch on the column. Insert the mounting screws, but don't tighten them yet.
- Push the switch gently down the column to remove all lash from the actuator rod. Tighten the mounting screws. Make sure that you didn't take the switch out of the ACCESSORY detent!
- The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal.
Manual Rack and Pinion Steering Gear
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Dakota
See Figures 1 and 2
This procedure applies to 2WD Dakota models only.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
- Remove the coupling pin.
- Remove the bolts attaching the rack to the crossmember.
- Remove the gear from the vehicle.
- The installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the mounting bolts to 150 ft. lbs. (203 Nm).
Manual Steering Gear
ADJUSTMENT
Wormshaft Preload Torque
See Figure 1
This procedure only applies to Pick-up and Ramcharger models so equipped.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the pitman arm from the pitman shaft.
- Remove the horn pad.
- Loosen the sector shaft adjusting screw locknut and back off the adjusting screw about 1 1 / 2 turns.
- Turn the steering wheel to the right stop and then back 1 / 2 turn. Measure the torque required to turn the steering while back to the straight-ahead position. The specification is 4-6 inch lbs. (0.45-0..7 Nm).
- If not within specifications, loosen the large adjustment cap locknut and turn the adjustment cap until the proper preload is reached. Turning the adjuster clockwise increases the preload torque.
- Tighten the locknut and recheck the preload.
- Tighten the sector shaft adjuster screw locknut.
Sector Shaft Adjustment
See Figure 2
- Perform the wormshaft preload procedure.
- Center the steering wheel.
- Loosen the sector shaft adjuster screw locknut and screw the adjuster screw all the way down. Tighten the locknut.
- Rotate the steering wheel 1 / 4 turn away from the overcenter position. Measure the torque required to rotate the wheel over the overcenter position. The specification is 14 inch lbs. (1.6 Nm).
- If not within specifications, adjust the screw accordingly and tighten the locknut.
- Install the horn pad.
- Install the pitman arm.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the 2 bolts from the wormshaft to steering shaft coupler.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Matchmark, then remove the pitman arm from the pitman shaft. Use tool C-4150, or equivalent.
- Remove the steering gear mounting bolts and remove the gear from the vehicle.
- The installation is the reversal of the removal procedure. Tighten the pitman arm nut to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm).
Power Rack and Pinion Steering Gear
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Dakota
See Figures 1 and 2
This procedure applies to 2WD Dakota models only.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckle.
- Disconnect and plug the power steering fluid lines.
- Remove the coupling pin.
- Remove the bolts attaching the rack to the crossmember.
- Remove the gear from the vehicle.
- The installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the mounting bolts to 150 ft. lbs. (203 Nm). Refill the power steering pump.
Power Steering Gear
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Pick-Up and Ramcharger
- Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
- Remove the windshield washer solvent reservoir and the coolant overflow tank, if necessary.
- Position a drain pan under the steering gear.
- Disconnect the fluid hoses from the gear and plug them.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands. Matchmark and remove the pitman arm.
- Disconnect the steering column shaft from the stub shaft.
- Remove the retaining bolts and remove the steering gear from the vehicle.
- Installation is the reversal of the removal procedure. Tighten the pitman arm nut to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm).
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands. Center the steering.
- Disconnect the pitman arm from the center link.
- Disconnect and plug the pressure and return hoses.
- Disconnect the steering gear-to-shaft coupling.
- Remove the steering gear mount bolts and remove the gear from the vehicle.
- Matchmark and remove the pitman arm from the sector shaft.
- Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Tighten the pitman arm nut to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm) and the mount bolts to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm). Refill the power steering pump.
Sector Shaft
If the vehicle wanders of the steering has too much play, the sector shaft can be adjusted as follows:
- Loosen the adjusting screw locknut and turn the screw all the down.
- Back the screw off 1 / 4 - 1 / 2 turn.
- Tighten the locknut.
- Road test the vehicle. If the steering wheel does not return easily after a turn, back the screw off until the wheel returns easily.
- Remove the steering gear arm and lockwasher from the sector shaft with a suitable gear puller.
- Remove the horn button or horn ring.
- Loosen the sector shaft adjusting screw locknut and back out the adjusting screw about two turns.
- Turn the steering wheel two complete turns from the straight-ahead position and place an inch pound/Nm torque wrench on the steering wheel shaft nut.
- Rotate the steering shaft at least one turn toward the straight-ahead position while measuring the torque on the wrench. The torque value should be between 4-6 inch lbs. (0.45-0.68 Nm) to move the steering wheel. If torque is not within specifications, loosen the wormshaft bearing adjuster locknut and turn the adjuster clockwise to increase the preload, or counterclockwise to decrease it. When the preload is correct, hold the adjuster screw steady and tighten the locknut. Recheck the preload.
This adjustment can be accurately made only after proper preloading of the worm bearing.
- Turn the steering wheel gently lock-to-lock and count the number of turns. Turn the steering wheel back exactly half way to the center position.
- Turn the sector shaft adjusting screw clockwise to remove all lash between the ball nut rack and the sector bear teeth, then tighten the adjusting screw locknut to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
- Turn the steering wheel about 1 / 4 turn away from the center or high spot position. With the torque wrench on the steering wheel nut, measure the torque required to turn the steering wheel through the high spot at the center position. The reading should be between 8-11 inch lbs. (0.90-1.24 Nm). This is the total of the worm shaft bearing preload and the ball nut rack and sector gear mesh load. Re-adjust the sector shaft adjustment screw if necessary to obtain a correct torque reading.
- After completing the adjustments, place the front wheels in a straight-ahead position and, with the steering wheel and steering gear centered, install the steering arm on the sector shaft. Tighten the steering arm retaining nut to 175 ft. lbs. (238 Nm).
Power Steering Pump
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figure 1
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Position a drain pan under the power steering pump.
- Disconnect the fluid hoses from the pump and plug them.
- Remove the front bracket attaching bolts and remove the belt from the pulley.
- Remove the rear pump to bracket nut and remove the pump.
- Remove the bracket from the pump.
- Remove the pulley from the pump with the proper puller. Install the pulley on the new pump using the special installation tools.
- Installation is the reversal of the removal procedure.
- Fill the reservoir with power steering fluid.
- Turn the wheels to the full left turn position and add fluid until the reservoir is full.
- Start the engine and add fluid to bring the level to the correct level.
- To purge the system of air, turn the steering wheel from side to side without contacting the stops.
- Return the wheel to the straight-ahead position and operate the engine for 2 minutes before road testing. This should bleed the system completely.
Steering Column
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1989-93 Models
- Disconnect the battery ground cable.
- On trucks with a column shift, disconnect the link rod by prying the rod out of the grommet in the shift lever.
- Remove the lower coupling roll pin.
- Disconnect the wiring at the column.
- Remove the steering wheel.
- Remove the turn signal lever.
- Remove the floor plate screws.
- Remove the instrument panel lower reinforcement.
- Disconnect the selector cable from the bracket on the column.
- Remove the column bracket-to-instrument panel nuts.
- Carefully remove the coupling from the wormshaft and lift the column out of the truck.
- Install a new shift grommet from the rod side of the lever using pliers and a backup washer to snap the grommet into place. Coating the grommet with multi-purpose grease will aid in installation. A new grommet should be used whenever a rod is disconnected from the lever.
- Position the column in the truck.
- With the front wheels straight-ahead and the master splines on the wormshaft and coupling aligned, engage the coupling and wormshaft and install the roll pin.
- Install, but don't tighten, the bracket nuts.
- Make sure that both plastic spacers are fully seated in their slots in the column support bracket, then, tighten the bracket nuts to 110 inch lbs. (12.5 Nm)
- Install the floor plate screws.
- Install the steering wheel.
- Connect the wiring.
- Connect and adjust the shift linkage.
- Connect the shift selector cable to the bracket on the column in its original location. Slowly move the shift lever from L to P, pausing briefly at each position. The pointer must align with each selector position. If necessary, loosen the bolt and re-adjust the linkage to align the pointer correctly.
- Install the panel lower reinforcement and cluster bezel.
1994-96 Models
RAM MODELSSee Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
- Make sure the wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
WARNING
Do not bump, jolt or hammer on the column shaft and gear shift tube.
- Pry the shift link rod out of the grommet on the bottom of the column, if equipped with an automatic transmission.
- Remove the steering wheel from the column (refer to the procedure in this section).
- For vehicles equipped with a column shift, disconnect the link rod in the engine compartment.
- Pry out the link rod from the grommet in the shift lever.
- Paint installation alignment marks on the column shaft-to-coupler to aid column shaft alignment upon reinstallation. Remove the steering column shaft-to-coupler bolt.
- Remove the dash panel cover under the column.
- For column shift vehicles, make sure the shift lever is in PARK. Pull the cable and twist it to remove it from the position arm. Push the tab on the bottom of the cable retainer, then squeeze the sides to remove the retainer from the column.
- If equipped with a tilt column, remove the tilt lever. Remove the upper and lower lock housing shroud trim.
- Remove the turn signal/multi-function switch using a 7mm socket.
- Loosen the upper support bracket nuts to allow some slack. This will aid in removal of the upper fixed shroud.
- Remove the electrical connections from the key-in light, ignition switch, horn, and clock spring (speed control)
- Remove the wiring harness from the column by prying out the plastic retainer buttons.
- Remove the lower dash panel and toe plate fasteners.
- Remove the column from the vehicle. Take care to avoid damaging paint or trim.
- Install a replacement grommet on the shift rod arm and lubricate it with a suitable multi-purpose lubricant.
- Install the ground clip on the left spacer slot.
- If applicable, remove the shipping lock pin.
- Install the column in the vehicle through the floorpan. Position the column bracket shear pins on the attaching studs and loosely assemble the upper bracket nuts.
- Make sure the wheels are still in a straight-ahead position and align the column shaft to the coupler. Install the pinch bolt, then tighten to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm).
- Clip the wiring harness onto the steering column. Install the multifunction switch and connect the column wiring. Tighten it with a 7mm socket.
- Install the upper fixed shroud.
- Make sure the both breakaway capsules are fully seated in the slots on the column bracket, then tighten the bracket bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
- Tighten the toe plate to floor pan attaching nuts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
- Install the wiring connections to the column.
- Install the lower shroud. Position the shift lever, if equipped with an automatic transaxle, in the farthest down position and install the PRNDL cable. If the indicator needs adjustment, turn the recessed hex head screw underneath the cable retainer.
- Install the lock housing shrouds. Install the tilt lever (if equipped).
- Install the lower dash panel column cover.
- Install the steering wheel.
- Connect the shift link rod to the transmission shift lever. Use multi-purpose grease to aid the installation.
- Check the transaxle linkage adjustment through all of the gear positions.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
See Figures 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11
- Make sure the wheels are in the straight-ahead position.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
WARNING
Do not bump, jolt or hammer on the column shaft and gear shift tube.
- Remove the steering wheel from the column (refer to the procedure in this section).
- Pry out the link rod from the grommet in the shift lever.
- Remove the upper-to-lower coupler pinch bolt. Push the upper coupler shaft down into the steering coupler.
- Push the upper-to-lower coupler shaft down into the steering coupler.
- Remove the dash panel column cover.
- For column shift vehicles, make sure the shift lever is in position 1, then remove the gear position indicator cable.
- If equipped with a tilt column, remove the tilt lever. Remove the upper and lower lock housing shroud trim. Remove the lower fixed shroud.
- Remove the turn signal/multi-function switch using a 7mm socket.
- Loosen the upper support bracket nuts to allow some slack. This will aid in removal of the upper fixed shroud.
- Remove the electrical connections from the key-in light, ignition switch, horn, and clock spring (speed control)
- Remove the wiring harness from the column by prying out the plastic retainer buttons.
- Remove the lower dash panel and toe plate fasteners.
- Remove the column from the vehicle. Take care to avoid damaging paint or trim.
- Install a replacement grommet on the shift rod arm and lubricate it with a suitable multi-purpose lubricant.
- Install the ground clip on the left spacer slot.
- Remove the shipping lock pin, if applicable.
- Install the column in the vehicle through the floorpan, position the column bracket shear pins on the attaching studs and loosely assemble the upper bracket nuts.
- Make sure the wheels are still in a straight-ahead position. Align and install the upper and lower coupler. Do not apply force to the top of the steering column shaft.
- Install the coupler bolt, then tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (47 Nm).
- Clip the wiring harness onto the steering column. Install the multifunction switch and connect the column wiring and tighten it with a 7mm socket.
- Install the upper fixed shroud.
- Make sure the both breakaway capsules are fully seated in the slots on the column bracket, then tighten the bracket bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
- Tighten the toe plate attaching nuts/bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
- Install the wiring connections to the column.
- Install the lower fixed shroud.
- For column shift vehicles, install the gear position indicator cable.
- Install the lock housing shrouds. Install the tilt lever (if equipped).
- Install the lower dash panel column cover.
- Install the steering wheel.
- For column shift vehicles, connect the shift link rod to the transmission shift lever. Use multi-purpose grease to aid the installation.
- Check the transaxle linkage adjustment through all of the gear positions.
- Connect the negative battery cable.
Steering Linkage
See Figure 1
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Tie Rod Ends
See Figures 2, 3 and 4
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
- Using a suitable puller, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle of center link.
Either count the number of visible threads or paint an alignment reference mark before unscrewing the end from the tie rod. This should enable you to thread the tie rod end back to NEAR the original position. Even if this is done, a front end alignment check should still be performed.
- Loosen the sleeve clamp nut and bolt and unscrew the tie rod end from the sleeve.
- Install the tie rod end in the sleeve. Screw it in as many turns as the tie rod end was when removed (or to the painted mark).
- Install the tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castellated nut, tightening it to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm). Always install a new cotter pin.
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
Pitman Arm
- Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
- Disconnect the drag link at the pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
- Remove the pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
- Matchmark the pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
- Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the pitman arm from the gear.
- With the wheels in the straight-ahead position, install the pitman arm up to the matchmarks made previously and restore it to its correct mounted position.
- Tighten the pitman arm nut to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm). Tighten the drag link ball stud nut to 40 ft. lbs., advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
Tie Rod and Drag Link
See Figure 5
Drag link seals should be inspected for damage at all oil change interval.
Damaged seals require removal of the seals and inspection of the drag link assembly at the throat opening. If the parts have not lost all the lubricant or are not contaminated, worn or rusted, use new seals and reinstall. Otherwise a completely new drag link assembly should be installed.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle (at a comfortable working height. Remove the interfering wheel from the vehicle.
- Turn the wheels in a direction that will give the best access to the drag link.
- Remove the cotter pins and nuts from the drag link. Install puller tool C-4150, or equivalent, to free the drag link from the steering gear arm.
- Lower the drag link from the vehicle.
- Position the drag link to the steering knuckle arm so that from the bend in the arm to the knuckle is the short distance marked as "A'' (see illustration). The long distance from the bend (marked "B'') is to be installed in the steering gear arm.
- Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
- Install the wheel. Carefully lower the vehicle.
Connecting Rod
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
- Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
- Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
Steering Wheel
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1989-93 Models
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5
- Disconnect the battery ground cable.
- If applicable, unscrew the horn pad from behind the steering wheel.
- Working through the access holes in the back of the wheel, push the horn pad off. Do NOT pry the pad off!
- Disconnect the horn wire.
- Matchmark the steering wheel and shaft.
- Remove the steering wheel retaining nut.
- Using a puller, remove the steering wheel from the shaft. NEVER hammer the shaft to free the wheel!
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the nut to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm).
1994-96 Models
See Figures 6, 7, 8 and 9
The DRBII scan tool may be required for this procedure. Steering wheel installation requires the clockspring to be centered to prevent accidental deployment of the air bag module. If the clockspring is not centered, or if the front wheels were moved, the clockspring centering procedure will require the use of the DRBII scan tool to final check the system.
- Make sure the front wheels are straight and the steering column is locked in place.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery and isolate. Wait 2 minutes for the reserve capacitor to discharge before removing non deployed module.
- Remove the 4 nuts attaching the air bag module from the back side of the steering wheel.
- Lift the module and unplug the connector from the rear of the module.
Refer to Chassis Electrical for precautions concerning the handling of a live air bag module.
- Remove the vehicle speed control switch and connector, if so equipped, or the cover.
- Remove the steering wheel retaining nut. The steering wheel and shaft are master splined for installation reference.
- Pull the air bag and speed control wires through the lower, larger hole in the steering wheel and horn wire through the smaller hole at the top. Be sure not to pinch the wires.
- With the front wheels in a straight-ahead position, position the steering wheel on the steering column by aligning the master splines.
- Install, then tighten the nut to 45 ft. lbs. (61 Nm). Do not attempt to force the wheel onto the shaft. The force of the nut is all that is needed to properly seat the steering wheel.
- Install the wires to the horn buttons, speed control and air bag module.
- Connect the clockspring wiring to the module by pressing straight in on the connector. It should latch securely beneath the module locking clip.
- Mount the air bag module, install the 4 nuts, tightening them to 80-100 inch lbs. (9-11 Nm).
- Do not connect the negative battery until you perform an Air Bag System Check as outlined in Chassis Electrical .
INSPECTION
To inspect the lower ball joints, unload the suspension. Lower ball joints on 2WD vehicles should be replaced if the have more than 0.020 in. (0.5mm) play. Any ball joint on 4WD vehicles should be replaced if any play exists.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONExcept Dakota
2WD MODELS
See Figures 1, 2 and 3
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the shock absorber.
- Remove the strut bar and disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install spring compressor tool DD-1278, or equivalent to the coil spring and tighten the nut finger-tight, then back off half a turn.
- Remove the cotter pin and lower ball joint nut.
- Release the lower ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Remove the tool and remove the ball stud from the control arm. Release the compressor tool from the coil spring.
- Pull the arm down and remove the spring with the rubber isolation pad from the vehicle. Remove the ball joint boot. Use tool C-4212, or an appropriate ball joint press to remove the ball joint from the arm.
- Use the remover tool to press the ball joint into the arm. Install a new rubber boot. Install the spring with the rubber isolators. Install the compressor tool and compress it enough so the lower ball joint can be inserted through the knuckle.
- Tighten 11 / 16 lower ball joint nuts to 135 ft. lbs. (183 Nm). Tighten 3 /4 nuts to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Remove the spring compressor.
- Install the strut bar and connect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install the shock absorber.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the front axle shaft.
- Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. On the left side, disconnect the drag link ball stud from the steering knuckle.
- On the left side, remove the nuts and washers from the steering knuckle arm and remove the arm and spring, if equipped, from the knuckle.
- If equipped with a Model 44 front axle, remove the ball joint nuts and discard the lower nut. Use a brass drift and hammer to separate the steering knuckle from the axle tube yoke.
- Remove the snapring from the ball joint. Install the knuckle in a vise and use tools D-150-1, D-150-3 and C-4212-L to remove the ball joint from the knuckle.
- If equipped with a Dana 60 front axle, use tools C-4212-L, C-4366-1 and C-4366-2 to remove the lower ball joint.
- If equipped with a Model 44 front axle, use tools C-4212-L and C-4288 to force the lower ball joint into the steering knuckle. Install the snapring and install a new rubber boot. Position the knuckle on the axle tube yoke and install a new lower ball stud nut. Tighten to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Install the upper ball stud nut and tighten to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm), then install a new cotter pin.
- If equipped with a Model 60 front axle, use tools C-4212-L, C-4366-3 and C-4366-4 to install the seal and lower bearing cup into the axle tube yoke lower bore. Reposition the tools and install the lower bearing and seal into the bore. Position the knuckle over the socket pin. Fill the lower socket cavity with grease. Install the lower cap and tighten the bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
- On the left side, install the spring, if equipped and the steering knuckle arm to the steering knuckle.
- Connect the tie rod to the end of the steering knuckle. On the left side, connect the drag link ball stud to the steering knuckle.
- Install the front axle shaft and all related components.
Dakota
2WD MODELS- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the shock absorber.
- Disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install spring compressor tool DD-1278, or equivalent to the coil spring and tighten the nut finger-tight, then back off half a turn.
- Remove the cotter pin and lower ball joint nut.
- Release the lower ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Remove the tool and remove the ball stud from the control arm. Release the compressor tool from the coil spring.
- Pull the arm down and remove the spring with the rubber isolation pad from the vehicle. Remove the ball joint boot. Use tool C-4212, or an appropriate ball joint press to remove the ball joint from the arm.
- Use the remover tool to press the ball joint into the arm. Install a new rubber boot. Install the spring with the rubber isolators. Install the compressor tool and compress it enough so the lower ball joint can be inserted through the knuckle.
- Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 135 ft. lbs. (183 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Remove the spring compressor.
- Connect the sway bar to the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install the shock absorber.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the CV driveshaft.
- Remove the torsion bar.
- Remove the shock absorber lower attaching bolt.
- Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm.
- Remove the cotter pin and the nut from the lower ball stud. Separate the lower ball stud from the steering knuckle.
- Pry the peened ball joint retainer sections upward from the lower control arm and remove the ball joint from the arm.
- Install the new ball joint in the control arm. Peen the ball joint housing retainer over to secure the ball joint.
- Install the grease seal.
- Insert the ball stud into the steering knuckle bore. Install the nut. Tighten to 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.
- Attach the stabilizer bar to the control arm and install the shock mount bolt.
- Install the torsion bar and turn the adjustment bolt clockwise to apply a load to the bar.
- Install the CV driveshaft and all related parts.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Set the front suspension height so that the difference between the distance from the surface that the tires are on to the lower control arm inner pivot and the distance that the tires are on to the outer end of the arm is 1-1 1 / 2 in. (25-38mm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Pick-Up and Ramcharger
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the shock absorber.
- Remove the strut bar and disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install spring compressor tool DD-1278, or equivalent to the coil spring and tighten the nut finger-tight. Then back off half a turn.
- Remove the cotter pin and lower ball joint nut.
- Release the lower ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Remove the tool and remove the ball stud from the control arm. Release the compressor tool from the coil spring.
- Pull the arm down and remove the spring with the rubber isolation pad from the vehicle. Remove the lower control arm pivot bolt from the crossmember and remove the arm from the vehicle.
- Install the arm to the crossmember finger-tight. Install the spring with the rubber isolators. Install the compressor tool and compress it enough so the lower ball joint can be inserted through the knuckle.
- Tighten 11 / 16 lower ball joint nuts to 135 ft. lbs. (183 Nm). Tighten 3 /4 nuts to 175 ft. lbs. (237 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Remove the spring compressor.
- Install the strut bar and connect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install the shock absorber.
- Lower the vehicle completely. When the weight of the vehicle is off of the lifting apparatus, tighten the lower arm pivot bolts to 225 ft. lbs. (305 Nm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
Dakota
2WD MODELSSee Figure 1
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the shock absorber.
- Disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install spring compressor tool DD-1278, or equivalent to the coil spring and tighten the nut finger-tight, then back off half a turn.
- Remove the cotter pin and lower ball joint nut.
- Release the lower ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Remove the tool and remove the ball stud from the control arm. Release the compressor tool from the coil spring.
- Pull the arm down and remove the spring with the rubber isolation pad from the vehicle. Remove the lower control arm pivot bolts from the crossmember and remove the arm from the vehicle.
- Install the arm to the crossmember finger-tight. Install the spring with the rubber isolators. Install the compressor tool and compress it enough so the lower ball joint can be inserted through the knuckle.
- Tighten the lower ball joint nut to 135 ft. lbs. (183 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Remove the spring compressor.
- Connect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install the shock absorber.
- Lower the vehicle completely. When the weight of the vehicle is off of the lifting apparatus, tighten the front lower arm pivot bolt to 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm) and the rear nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the CV driveshaft.
- Remove the torsion bar.
- Remove the shock absorber lower attaching bolt.
- Disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm.
- Remove the cotter pin and the nut from the lower ball stud. Separate the lower ball stud from the steering knuckle.
- Remove the pivot bolts and remove the arm from the vehicle.
- Install the new control arm to the vehicle.
- Install the pivot bolts.
- Insert the ball stud into the steering knuckle bore. Install the nut, tighten to 120 ft. lbs. (163 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.
- Attach the stabilizer bar to the control arm and install the shock mount bolt.
- Install the torsion bar and turn the adjustment bolt clockwise to apply a load to the bar.
- Install the CV driveshaft and all related parts.
- Lower the vehicle so the weight of the vehicle is completely off of the lifting apparatus.
- Tighten the front pivot nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm) and the rear nut to 130 ft. lbs. (176 Nm).
- Set the front suspension height. The difference between the distance from the surface that the tires are on to the lower control arm inner pivot and the distance that the tires are on to the outer end of the arm is 1-1 1/ 2 in. (25-38mm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
The 1994-96 Pick-ups do not have replaceable bushings.
- Remove the lower control arm.
- Use an arbor press and an appropriate size sleeve to force the original bushing from the lower control arm.
- Use an arbor press and an appropriate size sleeve to force the bushing into the lower control arm bore. Make sure that it is fully seated.
- Install the lower control arm.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figure 1
- Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
- Using a small drift and hammer, drive out the spring pin from the front end of the strut.
- Remove the nut, retainer and bushing.
- Remove the rear mounting bolts along with the jounce bumper and bracket.
- Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten the mounting bracket bolts to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm). Tighten the retainer nut to 50 ft. lbs. (68 Nm).
INSPECTION
To inspect the ball joints, unload the suspension and support the vehicle safely. Upper ball joints on 2WD vehicles and any ball joint on 4WD vehicles should be replaced if any play exists at all.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONExcept Dakota
2WD MODELS
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Position a support at the outer end of the lower control arm and lower the vehicle so that the support compresses the coil spring.
- Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
- Remove the cotter pin and the stud nut.
- Release the upper ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Unthread the ball joint from the control arm with tool C-3561, or equivalent.
- The installation is the reversal of the removal procedure. Tighten the ball joint itself to 125 ft. lbs. (169 Nm). Tighten the upper ball stud nut to 135 ft. lbs (183 Nm).
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the front axle shaft.
- Disconnect the tie rod end from the steering knuckle. On the left side, disconnect the drag link ball stud from the steering knuckle.
- On the left side, remove the nuts and washers from the steering knuckle arm and remove the arm and spring, if equipped, from the knuckle.
- If equipped with a Model 44 front axle, remove the ball joint nuts and discard the lower nut. Use a brass drift and hammer to separate the steering knuckle from the axle tube yoke. Use tool C-4169 to remove the sleeve from the upper yoke arm.
- Remove the snapring from the ball joint. Install the knuckle in a vise and use tools D-150-1, D-150-3 and C-4212-L to remove the ball joint from the knuckle.
- If equipped with a Model 60 front axle, remove the bolts from the knuckle lower cap. Dislodge the cap from the steering knuckle and axle tube yoke. Remove the steering knuckle. Use tool D-192 to remove the upper socket pin from the axle tube upper arm bore. Remove the seal.
- If equipped with a Model 44 front axle, use tools C-4212-L and C-4288 to force the upper ball joint into the steering knuckle. Install the snapring and install a new rubber boot. Thread the replacement sleeve into the upper yoke bore so that 2 threads are exposed at the top of the yoke. Position the knuckle on the axle tube yoke and install a new lower ball stud nut, then tighten to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Using the special socket, tighten the sleeve to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Install the upper ball stud nut and torque to 100 ft. lbs. (136 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.
- If equipped with a Model 60 front axle, use tool D-192 to install the upper socket pin to the axle tube upper arm bore. Install a new seal. Tighten to 500-600 ft. lbs. (668-813 Nm). Position the knuckle over the socket pin. Fill the lower socket cavity with grease. Install the lower cap and tighten the bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm).
- On the left side, install the spring, if equipped and the steering knuckle arm to the steering knuckle.
- Connect the tie rod to the end of the steering knuckle. On the left side, connect the drag link ball stud to the steering knuckle.
- Install the front axle shaft and all related components.
2WD MODELS
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Position a support at the outer end of the lower control arm and lower the vehicle so that the support compresses the coil spring.
- Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
- Remove the cotter pin and stud nut.
- Release the upper ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Unthread the ball joint from the control arm with tool C-3561, or equivalent.
- Tighten the ball joint itself to 125 ft. lbs. (169 Nm).
- Tighten the upper ball stud nut to 135 ft. lbs (183 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.
- The installation of the remaining components is the reverse of the removal procedure.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the CV driveshaft from the vehicle.
- Turn the torsion bar adjustment nut counterclockwise to relieve all tension from the torsion bar.
- Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud.
- Release the upper ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent. Remove the tool.
- Remove the upper ball stud seal.
- Force the ball joint from the arm using the ball stud removal and installation tool C-4212.
- Install the new ball joint using the ball stud removal and installation tool C-4212.
- Install the ball stud seal.
- Insert the upper ball stud in the steering knuckle arm bore and install the nut. Tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm) and install a new cotter pin.
- Turn the torsion bar adjustment nut clockwise to apply a load on the bar.
- Install the CV driveshaft and all related parts.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Set the front suspension height. The difference between the distance from the surface that the tires are on to the lower control arm inner pivot and the distance that the tires are on to the outer end of the arm is 1-1 1/ 2 in. (25-38mm).
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Any time the control arm is removed, it is necessary to have the front suspension aligned.
Pick-Up and RamchargerSee Figure 1
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the shock absorber.
- Remove the strut bar and disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install spring compressor tool DD-1278, or equivalent to the coil spring and tighten the nut finger-tight. Then back off half a turn.
- Remove the cotter pin and upper ball joint nut. Suspend the assembly with a wire so there is not excessive pull on the brake hose.
- Release the upper ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Remove the tool and remove the ball stud from the control arm.
- Remove the cam bolt assemblies and remove the arm from the vehicle.
- Install the arm to the frame rail bracket and install the retaining bolts.
- Tighten the ball joint nut to 135 ft. lbs. (183 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Remove the spring compressor.
- Install the strut bar and connect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install the shock absorber.
- Roughly align the front end, then tighten the cam bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
Dakota
2WD MODELSSee Figure 2
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the shock absorber.
- Disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install spring compressor tool DD-1278, or equivalent to the coil spring and tighten the nut finger-tight, then back off half a turn.
- Remove the cotter pin and upper ball joint nut. Suspend the rotor assembly with a wire so there is not excessive pull on the brake hose.
- Release the upper ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent.
- Remove the tool and remove the ball stud from the control arm.
- Remove the pivot bar retaining bolts and remove the arm from the vehicle.
- Install the arm to the frame rail bracket and install the retaining bolts.
- Tighten the ball joint nut to 135 ft. lbs. (183 Nm). Install a new cotter pin. Remove the spring compressor.
- Connect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if equipped.
- Install the shock absorber.
- Roughly align the front end, then tighten the cam bolts to 155 ft. lbs. (210 Nm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
- Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
- Remove the CV driveshaft from the vehicle.
- Turn the torsion bar adjustment nut counterclockwise to relieve all tension from the torsion bar. Remove the screws that attach the brake hose bracket to the upper arm. Remove the shock absorber.
- Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball stud, then remove the retaining nut.
- Release the upper ball joint taper using ball stud loosening tool C-3564-A, or equivalent. Remove the tool. Remove the ball stud from the steering knuckle.
- Remove the pivot bar retaining bolts.
- Remove the arm from the vehicle.
- Position the arm at the frame rail bracket.
- Install the pivot arm nuts and bolts.
- Insert the upper ball stud in the steering knuckle arm bore and install the nut. Tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm) and install a new cotter pin. Install the shock absorber and attach the brake hose bracket.
- Turn the torsion bar adjustment nut clockwise to apply a load on the bar.
- Install the CV driveshaft and all related parts.
- Lower the vehicle.
- Set the front suspension height. The difference between the distance from the surface that the tires are on to the lower control arm inner pivot and the distance that the tires are on to the outer end of the arm is 1-1 1/ 2 in. (25-38mm).
- Have the alignment checked at a reputable repair facility.
1994-96 Pick-ups do not have replaceable bushings.
- Remove the upper control arm.
- Place the upper control arm in a vice and assemble Remover/Installer tool No C-3962, or equivalent and adapter No. SP-3953, or equivalent over the bushing. Tighten the nuts and force the bushings out of the arm bore.
Be sure the control arm is supported firmly at the area where the bushing is being forced in. Do not use any lubricant to aid in the installation.
- Position the flange end of the replacement bushing in the Remover/Installer tool No C-3962, or equivalent. Support the control arm firmly and force the bushing in the control arm bore (from outside). Tighten until the flange end is seated on the arm.
- Install the control arm.