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Showing posts with label engine stalling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label engine stalling. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

50 hp Evinrude idle rough, bogging and stalling

Boat Idles Rough,bogs and stalls

Boat Stalls and bogs on Accelerate


The issues:

  • It Idles rough.
  • It stalls and bogs when accelerate.
  • Carbs issue.
  • Intake Adjustment Screw
  • Where is Idle adjust screw
  • How to Set Primer System
All mentioned issues stated above will be discussed below,to its best possible way.


1994 evinrude 50 Idles rough?

In this case the compression test needs to be done.On each cylinder you should get approx 115 to 12p Psi.If any of the cylinder shows less Psi,then there lies the problem.Reverse the faulty cylinder to working cylinder ans working cylinder to faulty cylinder and see if the problem reverse.If yes,then you know the cylinder is faulty and replace the cylinder to get the compression right.

If the compression is tested fine and correct on each cylinder then there is a issue with carbs.
The carbs are dirty.
To clean the carbs soak the carbs about half an hour then blew out the jets with choke cleaner,thenput it back together.


OK,WHY IT BOGS DOWN WHEN ACCELERATED?

When you accelerate the fuel flow runs to carbs.If carbs are serviced and not realigned properly the vehicle will bog down.
Also if the fuel line going to carb is not lined or fitted properly or the fuel line is getting pinched in between and causing low fuel to reach the carbs then it will bog down.


WHY TO SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS?

If the carbs were disassemble to service and not realigned properly to its exact position then carbs needs to be re-syncronized to its exact position.
Suppose if one carb throttle plate is open more than the other it will idle rough and cause bogging and stalling. Also these are bad about roller on carb splitting and falling off, the roller that throttle arm pushes against on carb should be the size of  2 pencil and if smaller, roller is missing. 


Where is intake adjust screw?

See the diagram of intake screw to loosen to adjust will be #28 as it is in cam #14

boat intake adjust

Which the Idle adjust screw on Evinrude?

The idle adjust screw is the one that attaches the arm to both carbs.
Before spinning the screw note down its actual position.So if idle gets wrong,you know its actual position,to bring it to normal idle state.


How to prime the system?


There is the little red arrow valve on the left side above the control arms toward the back of the engine.
That little red valve is the manual setting for the primer system. Turning it the other way has the same effect as pushing in on the key for the choke position. The small handle should be lined up with the solenoid. You will feel a small click when it goes back to the position it should be.

Some cases turning that valve will make the engine receive power.And all sorts out.
But if in case this works temporarily then you definitely have carbs issue.Re-synchronize the carbs.If you are not able to set it,then get it done at proper professionals.

Suppose if turning that red valve  momentarily fixed your problem, then after a little bit the engine floods out and fuel starts flowing out from front, then that tells you that the high speed jet is plugged or needle and seat are plugged up in one or both of the carbs. They should both be removed, cleaned and carb kits installed.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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Thursday, June 28, 2012

Jeep Liberty Limited ENGINE PROBLEMS

Multiple problems starter after replacing engine.

2002 jeep liberty limited engine replaced by shop,after that noise started coming from A/C  system.
It can be heard under hood.Its a knocking vibration noise.

THE TROUBLESHOOTING FOR THIS PROBLEM IS AS FOLLOWS:---

Try this test get under the hood.
Grasp the A/C tube on the passanger side near the Evaporator which is near to the firewall.see if you notice the notice there.

It's very possible that vibration or knock from an a/c line or the exhaust after the engine replacement. Most probably the exhaust is not  adjusted correctly on the collectors and that is  hitting the frame and noise is heard, or issue with  trans crossmember, etc. If the flange in front of the muffler is misadjusted then it will cause the muffler to knock against the right rear lower control arm bolt, which is a great possibility in your case.

INSPECT THE A/C lines.The lines are very delicate to get bent.
The same goes for the a/c lines. They are soft aluminum and can be bent easily, and there is quite a bit of a/c line, wiring, and other components that have to be routed correctly under the hood or things will knock against each other.
.
If the noise was coming from the compressor then it would be a very fast knocking noise that only happened when the compressor was engaged, and it would come from the compressor itself. You shouldn't have a question if the noise was coming from the compressor.

In this case 
I personally recommend  taking it back to the shop that just did the engine work because it sounds like the exhaust and a/c line issues are going to be directly related to the work they did. 

at present the case is not worse,but can be a major issue.the noise you hear is the starting,but can increase in future and cause severe engine or A/c related issues.

This details will .
Thanks.

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http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/03/car-repair-guide.html 

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Friday, April 27, 2012

1997 Toyota Camry: Erratic Idle and Intermittent engine stalling?

Intermittant stalling when Vehicle stops at Signal/red light.
This problems are very much noticed on many car brands.

There are few weak parts that can cause the problems.


Idler control valve,EGR valve,spark plugs and wires, ect.
Please go for Original Toyota or branded parts instead of cheap / local non branded parts.They dont match original parts quality and dont last long or many a times they dont get detected by cars computer system.So same problem is noticed even after you replace the parts.

The two most common issues for this problem are idle air control motor or IAC and the EGR valve. Both of these are very common failures that affect engine idle.
There is one more item that will cause erratic and intermittent engine stalling. This is the EFI water temperature sensor. It is very difficult to catch these when they are erratic or act up. Usually one of the follow-up signs is that the vehicle will crank for a slightly longer than normal. When it starts back up.
What happens is sporadically the EFI water temperature sensor will Spike a high-voltage around 2 to 3 V and the computer sees this as a an extremely cold engine and runs the injection time very rich for a few split seconds and will stall the engine. A lot of times this will not set a malfunction code for the engine control computer EFI water temp sensor.
The actual sensor cost is about $60. In these types of cases the labor to try and diagnose or catch this failure will out weigh the actual cost of just replacing with a new Toyota sensor. If it doesn't work you're only out $60. One of the other possibilities is the ignition coils. I have seen failures on the igniter side of the ignition coil on the IGT or IGF circuit and it will cause the engine quit running momentarily. This however 90% of the times will set a P 1300 series code.

This details will help you.
Thanks.


For All types of Car models and brands help

Go to Newly Launched


FREE Car repair guide?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/03/car-repair-guide.html

&

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http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/03/complete-car-repair-help.html


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