Technical Car Experts Answers everything you need: June 2012

Thursday, June 28, 2012

Jeep Liberty Limited ENGINE PROBLEMS

Multiple problems starter after replacing engine.

2002 jeep liberty limited engine replaced by shop,after that noise started coming from A/C system.

It can be heard under hood.Its a knocking vibration noise.

THE TROUBLESHOOTING FOR THIS PROBLEM IS AS FOLLOWS:---

Try this test get under the hood.

Grasp the A/C tube on the passanger side near the Evaporator which is near to the firewall.see if you notice the notice there.

It's very possible that vibration or knock from an a/c line or the exhaust after the engine replacement. Most probably the exhaust is not adjusted correctly on the collectors and that is hitting the frame and noise is heard, or issue with trans crossmember, etc. If the flange in front of the muffler is misadjusted then it will cause the muffler to knock against the right rear lower control arm bolt, which is a great possibility in your case.

INSPECT THE A/C lines.The lines are very delicate to get bent.

The same goes for the a/c lines. They are soft aluminum and can be bent easily, and there is quite a bit of a/c line, wiring, and other components that have to be routed correctly under the hood or things will knock against each other.

If the noise was coming from the compressor then it would be a very fast knocking noise that only happened when the compressor was engaged, and it would come from the compressor itself. You shouldn't have a question if the noise was coming from the compressor.

In this case

I personally recommend taking it back to the shop that just did the engine work because it sounds like the exhaust and a/c line issues are going to be directly related to the work they did.

at present the case is not worse,but can be a major issue.the noise you hear is the starting,but can increase in future and cause severe engine or A/c related issues.

This details will .

Thanks.

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2002 Jeep Wrangler: 4WD Idiot Light is ON?

Solution For 4 Wheel Drive Indicator Light Problem.

The idiot light comes ON when in 2wd but goes off when lever is shift to 4wd.

This is a common Problem.Noticed by many others too.The Indicator light system is controlled by switch.

The switch needs to be inspected.

On the top of the transfer case there is a switch that has a plunger that rides off the shift selector in the transfer case, depending on transfer case position it puts a reference voltage through a different resistor to vary the return voltage. The return voltage is read and position is determined and then the appropriate light comes on. It's common for these switches to fail and actually operate backward as yours is. The switch will need to be replaced .
Once the switch is replaced,all should work well.
In some cases its seen that wiring in switch gets together and shorts.So first inspect the wires.Clean the connections and reconnect.Then see,if same problem noticed then replace the switch.
If the switch is cracked or got shorted inside and burned.Then directly replace the switch.

See the diagram shown below for its location :----

4WD Indicator Light Switch
In right rear corner of engine compartment

idiot light switch

This detail will help.
Thanks.

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2004 Dodge Ram: Transmission Not Working?

Solution For repairing Transmission Problem.

CASE HISTORY:---
Vehicle was driving fine.After getting over the bump the vehicle jerked and transmission stopped operating.

The engine whines while start up but tranny will not operate.

SOLUTION FOR TROUBLESHOOTING IS AS FOLLOWS:------

First thing to check in this case is Transmission fluid level.
Try this test to confirm the fluid level.

With the engine off remove the dipstick and note the exact fluid level on the stick. It will be substantially over the full mark since the engine isn't running.
Now test the fluid level again ,but this time start the engine for few minutes.Then wait for one more minute.
Then check the fluid level again and see where it's at.

Did the level stay the same? Did it drop?

If in the the first test vehicle fluid level is at cool level and after starting engine the vehicle fluid level shows at hot fluid level.Then its advisable to get the fluid replaced.

But if fluid level is checked ok and its full then,smell the fluid,is it smelling burnt or is it very dirty fluid.IF yes then also get the fluid changed.Get the transmission system flushed and fluid replaced.The burnt fluid is indication that transmission clutch system is getting worn out.The clutch needs to be inspected.

But if that is also not the case and fluid is clear and not burnt smell.
Then see if you get any steady check engine light ON dash.
If yes then get the error codes scanned.
The code will tell us what part is causing the problem.

But if there is No check engine light on dash.
Then its not error code issue.

In that case test the relays in the fuse box,.If the relay is faulty,it has to be replaced.

In the fuse box under the hood find the trans relay. (relays are the larger black square objects). See the condition of relay,if it looks worn out and blown/shorted then replace it.But if relay looks good then,With the relay out start the truck and see if the trans will engage then or if it still won't move.
If it engages with relay out,then its faulty relay, replace it.

But if with the relay out,the problem is same then reinsert relay where it was.

Now manually try pushing the truck.With the trans in park are you able to push the truck, or do you feel a mechanical lock preventing the truck from moving?
If its transmission problem you will feel that vehicle is hard to push and it feels like locked.

If you feel the vehicle is hard to push with trans is park mode.
Then You've definitely got an internal trans issue of some sort then.

The previous test we did clears that

The pump is pulling fluid from the pan, which is a good sign.
It's also a good sign that the fluid isn't burnt, normally if there was clutch damage then the fluid would be burnt.

On this basis it indicates that problem can be like failed clutch, geartrain component or broken/stripped shaft in the transmission.
To confirm the issue further I recommend is removing the pan and having a look at the accumulator cover.
Remove the cover and inspect the undercover pistons.
On the right side of the valve body there is a steel plate that runs from the front to back, this cover holds all the accumulator pistons in the valve body. The plate is held on with Torx screws and sometimes the screw heads will shear and the plate bends, this allows pistons to come out and you will lose certain clutches depending on what piston falls out. If your underdrive piston falls out then it's not going to move.

If you notice any of this issues then the repair simply involves removing the valve body and installing a repair kit from your dealer. The kit comes with a piston, seals, screws and the cover.Replacing the parts will solve the issue.

BUT after you remove the accumulator cover and all looks clean and absolutely fine and all pistons are tight intact.Then its not the valve body issue.
If this does look ok then unfortunately the trans will have to be further disassembled to see what has happened. Any internal failure on these is uncommon, but if your fluid isn't burnt at all then if there actually is an internal failure then a geartrain component or shaft seems most likely. Let's hope it's the accumulator cover.
Because the repair cost will be less.
But if its internal issue with transmission mission then cost will be much expensive and proper transmission rebuilt auto shop will be required to get the exact cause detected.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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2007 Dodge Caliber: Low Beam Headlight Not working

Solution For Low Beam Headlight Problem

CASE HISTORY:----
IN THIS CASE
The right side low beam works,but left side low beam is not working.

The low beam bulb is tested good.The left side high beam works good.

Only left side low beam not working.

THE SOLUTION STARTS HERE:----

In this case it can be faulty bulb plug in the socket.Inspect the plug in the socket.Each plug has 3 wires.There are 2 bulb sockets.Check both sockets with a meter and you should get 11.4v to 12.0v on each outside wire and a good ground on the center wires.If you have this tested ok then you are sure that there is voltage and problem is with main module.
But if there is no voltage to this wires then issue with short in wiring.You have to rewire from main module to the socket.

BUT IF YOU HAVE VOLTAGE TO THIS PLUG WIRES.THEN FURTHER TROUBLESHOOTING IS AS FOLLOWS:-------
The module which controls this light and light gets command from this module.Its called TIPM.
The TIPM is the module/fuse box under the hood (TIPM stands for Totally Integrated Power Module). It's the back plastic box located up in the left front corner of the engine compartment. Mostly you have seen it but probably not familiar with the TIPM terminology.
Here is what the details below will make you understand its working theory.

What voltage you're seeing on this wires is diagnostic voltage. It's put out on the circuit by the TIPM (module/fuse box under the hood) to check for open circuits. The presence of the diagnostic voltage there tells you that the wire from the TIPM to the bulb is good. There is diagnostic voltage on all bulbs at all times no matter if they are turned on or not, you would see this voltage everywhere.

Diagnostic voltage has no current and won't light any light bulb, so testing of these circuits could only be done with a test light. A voltmeter will show you the diagnostic voltage, which is good in it's own way - if there is diagnostic voltage there then you know the wire is good.But to make the bulb work,the TIPM should work.

Since bulb is good and tested OK/working in other socket.And now diagnostic voltage test shows wire is good.So as per this the problem has to be in the TIPM.

In this case the first thing I would recommend is disconnet the battery for a couple minutes.

This is a system reset procedure.The cars computer system gets reset every time the battery terminals are disconnected.

If the TIPM sees current draw go too high on a circuit it will set a fault code and disable that circuit. Disconnecting the battery would clear any fault codes in the TIPM if they are set and may restore operation of your headlight.

BUT
If system reset procedure is not helping.Then you are confirmed that problem is in the TIPM, the low beam driver has failed. The TIPM would need to be replaced if that's the case.

The TIPM is a costly part.It will cost Approx $800.
There are two possible TIPM's for your vehicle and it will need to be ordered by VIN. The part has to be ordered by dealer.There are few auto parts store which deals in such parts.But i suggest you to order the part by dealer.i agree the part is costly at dealer and cheaper at other auto parts store.But at dealership you get original part and its actually for your car brand model.
but if you are getting Aftermarket part with good warranty and its working good,then you can order that too.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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2006 Chrysler 300c: Shifter Stuck in Park?

Will not Shift to drive,shifter stuck in park.

Most probably its internal problem with shifter assembly.
To confirm the issue.Try this basic test procedure:-----

Start the engine, press and hold the brake and see if you are able to move the shifter over slightly to the right. If you are then you know the brake/shifter interlock system is working ok.

In Most of such cases the problem was noticed with internal in the shifter.

There is a spring loaded plastic arm where the ignition interlock cable attaches and this arm will often break and prevent moving the shifter from park because it doesn't know the key has been turned on.

This is common problem and there was a recall that affected many vehicles.
If yours is covered under the recall then the repair and tow will be free at your dealer.So first confirm the issue with your car dealer and get details about this problem recall.

If yours isn't covered then you or a shop can disassemble the shifter and replace the interlock arm, there is now a repair kit and it runs about $7.
So if its not covered under recall,then also the repair for this issue is not very costly.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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Wednesday, June 27, 2012

VALVE COVER GASKET REMOVAL GUIDE

Chrysler PT Cruiser, 2001 - 2005 Valve Cover Gasket Removal details and procedure:-------

Also valve cover gasket removal for other car model is listed below:---

The very common problem noticed is oil fouling.

The oil fouling is most likely a result of the valve cover gasket leaking down in one or more of the spark plug towers ,on the cover gasket there are 4 gaskets which stop the oil from leaking into the spark plug sockets,these get brittle and dont seal .

The details that will help you while doing this Valve Cover Gasket replacing Job

The valve cover gasket comes with spark plug seals.
You have to remove the intake manifold, accelerator linkage, and some other electrical and vacuum connections.

In this process without forget to replace the PCV while your doing this..... This is because with the Turbo (after 100K miles) that clean air and gas are a must.

Its not a difficult job.
The replacement takes approx 3 hours.
I hope this helps some others experiencing this problem...

Please note while doing this job.

The Torque specs.

Max torque 105 in lbs and that is equal to 8.75 ft lbs.

105 in-lbs, 12Nm.
BUT they are supposed to be torqued down in increments. First 40 in-lbs, then 80 in-lbs then up to the 105 in-lbs.
VALVE COVER GASKET REMOVAL DETAILS STARTS HERE:----------

Removal & Installation

Remove upper intake manifold.

Remove ignition coil and spark plug wires.

Disconnect PCV and make-up air hoses from cylinder head cover.

Remove cylinder head cover bolts.

WARNING
When removing cylinder head cover bolts, be careful not to interchange the center bolts with the seven perimeter bolts. The two center bolts contain an aluminum washer between the bolt head and torque limiter for sealing purposes.

Remove cylinder head cover from cylinder head.

To install:

NOTE

Replace spark plug well seals and bolt seals when installing a new cylinder head cover gasket.

Install new cylinder head cover gaskets and spark plug well seals.

Replace cylinder head cover bolt seals.

CAUTION
Do not allow oil or solvents to contact the timing belt as they can deteriorate the rubber and cause tooth skipping.

Apply Mopar® Engine RTV GEN II at the camshaft cap corners and at the top edges of the 1/2 round seal.

CAUTION
When installing cylinder head cover bolts, be careful not to interchange the two center bolts with the seven perimeter bolts. The two center bolts contain an aluminum washer between the bolt head and torque limiter for sealing purposes.

Install cylinder head cover assembly to cylinder head. Install all bolts, ensuring the two bolts containing the sealing washer are located in the center locations of cover.

Tighten bolts in sequence shown in. Using a 3 step torque method as follows:

Tighten all bolts to 40 inch lbs. (4.5 Nm)
Tighten all bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9.0 Nm)
Tighten all bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)

Install ignition coil and spark plug wires. Tighten fasteners to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).

If the PCV valve was removed, apply Mopar® Thread Sealant with Teflon to threads and install valve to cylinder head cover. Tighten PCV valve to 70 inch lbs. (8 Nm).

Connect PCV and make-up air hoses to cylinder head cover.

Install upper intake manifold.

ALSO FOLLOW THIS OTHER PARTS REMOVAL INSTALLATION PROCEDURE.THIS WILL BE REQUIRED TO REPLACE VALVE COVER GASKET:-----

You have remove the entire Upper Intake Manifold and have full access to the Valve Cover:

First Disconnect throttle support (It has 2 nuts), disconnect throttle cables,
Disconnect electrical connectors and hose connections.There are four (4) electrical connectors and four (4) hose connections.
once this is done remove Ignition Coil Pack.There are four(4) bolts attached to top of valve cover
Now Disconnect Spark Plug wires from Spark Plugs
After that you have to Disconnect Steering Fluid reservoir.For that there are two (2) bolts.Remove the bolt and tie it to the side and out of the way.
Now major task comes to end the last you have to Remove nine (9) valve cover bolts and they stay in cover if yo don't pull them out.

Upper Intake Manifold (Plenum)

PLEASE NOTE PROCEDURE IS DIFFERENT FOR TURBO AND NON-TURBO MODELS

Procedure for both are provided below:----

Removal & Installation

Non-Turbo Models

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.

Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

Remove or disconnect the following:

Negative battery cable
Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor and air hose
Engine cover
Throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle lever bracket
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Idle Air Control (IAC) motor electrical connector
Throttle Position (TPS) sensor wiring connector
Proportional purge hoses
Brake booster vacuum hose
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose from the intake manifold
Throttle body support bracket bolt
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube from the upper intake manifold
Upper intake manifold

Clean the mating surfaces.

Fig. Remove the EGR tube from the upper intake manifold

To install:

Fig. Upper intake manifold bolt torque sequence-Non-Turbo models

Install or connect the following:

New gaskets and seals
Intake manifold on the EGR tube then on the lower intake manifold. Torque the bolts, in sequence, to 20 ft. lbs. (28 Nm) on 2002 models or 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm) on 2003-06 models.
Throttle body support bracket and torque the bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (20 Nm)
EGR retainer plate and torque the smaller bolt to 95 inch lbs. (11 Nm) and the large bolt to 28 ft. lbs. (21 Nm)
PCV hose to the intake manifold
MAP sensor electrical connector
Proportional purge hoses
Brake booster hose
IAC motor and TPS connectors
Throttle and speed control cables
Air cleaner assembly
Engine cover
IAT sensor
Negative battery cable

Turbo Models

NOTE

The engines in these vehicles are equipped with either an aluminum or plastic manifold.

Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.

Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.

Remove or disconnect the following:

NOTE
Cover the lower intake manifold to avoid dirt and other objects from entering.

Negative battery cable
Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor
Throttle inlet pressure hose
Charge air cooler hose from the throttle body
Idle Air Control (IAC) motor electrical connector
Throttle control shield
Throttle and cruise control cables from the throttle lever bracket
Throttle cable bracket
Brake booster vacuum hose
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose from the intake manifold
Purge solenoid hose from the throttle body
Upper intake manifold support bracket and manifold

Clean the mating surfaces.

To install:

Fig. Upper intake manifold bolt torque sequence-turbo models

Remove the cover from the lower intake manifold.

Install or connect the following:

New gasket
Intake manifold on the lower intake manifold. If equipped with an aluminum manifold, torque the bolts in sequence to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm). If equipped with a plastic manifold, torque the bolts in sequence to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm).
Upper intake manifold support bracket Torque the retainers to 250 inch lbs. (28 Nm).
Purge solenoid hose to the throttle body
Brake booster vacuum hose
PCV hose
Throttle cable bracket and tighten the screws to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm)
Throttle and cruise control cables to the throttle lever bracket
Throttle control shield
IAC motor electrical connector
MAP sensor
Charge air cooler hose to the throttle body
IAT sensor
Throttle inlet pressure hose
Negative battery cable

This details will help.

Thanks.

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@

Thursday, June 28, 2012

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Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Removal & Installation

Removal & Installation

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