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Showing posts with label fluid leaks from transmission. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fluid leaks from transmission. Show all posts

Thursday, June 28, 2012

2004 Dodge Ram: Transmission Not Working?

Solution For repairing Transmission Problem.

CASE HISTORY:---
Vehicle was driving fine.After getting over the bump the vehicle jerked and transmission stopped operating.

The engine whines while start up but tranny will not operate.

SOLUTION FOR TROUBLESHOOTING IS AS FOLLOWS:------

First thing to check in this case is Transmission fluid level.
Try this test to confirm the fluid level.


With the engine off remove the dipstick and note the exact fluid level on the stick. It will be substantially over the full mark since the engine isn't running.
Now test the fluid level again ,but this time start the engine for few minutes.Then wait for one more minute.
Then check the fluid level again and see where it's at.

Did the level stay the same? Did it drop?

If in the the first test  vehicle fluid level is at cool level and after starting engine the vehicle fluid level shows at hot fluid level.Then its advisable to get the fluid replaced.

But if fluid level is checked ok and its full then,smell the fluid,is it smelling burnt or is it very dirty fluid.IF yes then also get the fluid changed.Get the transmission system flushed and fluid replaced.The burnt fluid is indication that transmission clutch system is getting worn out.The clutch needs to be inspected.

But if that is also not the case and fluid is clear and not burnt smell.
Then see if you get any steady check engine light ON dash.
If yes then get the error codes scanned.
The code will tell us what part is causing the problem.

But if there is No check engine light on dash.
Then its not error code issue.

In that case test the relays in the fuse box,.If the relay is faulty,it has to be replaced.

In the fuse box under the hood find the trans relay. (relays are the larger black square objects). See the condition of relay,if it looks worn out and blown/shorted then replace it.But if relay looks good then,With the relay out start the truck and see if the trans will engage then or if it still won't move.
If it engages with relay out,then its faulty relay, replace it.

But if with the relay out,the problem is same then reinsert relay where it was.

Now manually try pushing the truck.With the trans in park are you able to push the truck, or do you feel a mechanical lock preventing the truck from moving?
If its transmission problem you will feel that vehicle is hard to push and it feels like locked.

If you feel the vehicle is hard to push with trans is park mode.
Then You've definitely got an internal trans issue of some sort then.

The previous test we did clears that

  • The pump is pulling fluid from the pan, which is a good sign. 
  • It's also a good sign that the fluid isn't burnt, normally if there was clutch damage then the fluid would be burnt.

On this basis it indicates that problem can be like failed clutch, geartrain component or broken/stripped shaft in the transmission.
To confirm the issue further I  recommend is removing the pan and having a look at the accumulator cover.
Remove the cover and inspect the undercover pistons.
On the right side of the valve body there is a steel plate that runs from the front to back, this cover holds all the accumulator pistons in the valve body. The plate is held on with Torx screws and sometimes the screw heads will shear and the plate bends, this allows pistons to come out and you will lose certain clutches depending on what piston falls out. If your underdrive piston falls out then it's not going to move.

If  you notice any of this issues then the repair simply involves removing the valve body and installing a repair kit from your dealer. The kit comes with a piston, seals, screws and the cover.Replacing the parts will solve the issue.

BUT after you remove the accumulator cover and all looks clean and absolutely fine and all pistons are tight intact.Then its not the valve body issue.
If this does look ok then unfortunately the trans will have to be further disassembled to see what has happened. Any internal failure on these is uncommon, but if your fluid isn't burnt at all then if there actually is an internal failure then a geartrain component or shaft seems most likely. Let's hope it's the accumulator cover.
Because the repair cost will be less.
But if its internal issue with transmission mission then cost will be much expensive and proper transmission rebuilt auto shop will be required to get the exact cause detected.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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Wednesday, June 20, 2012

1999 Honda Accord: Location of Transmission Dipstick?

Where is Transmission dipstick located.

Transmission dipstick is very useful for inspecting the transmission fluid level in the reservoir.


The transmission fluid dipstick is towards the front of the vehicle, in the lower portion of the engine compartment The Dipstick has  yellow loop handle.But if its an aftermarket dipstick then its color may differ.
The help diagram is shown below for its exact location:---------


honda dipstick

This details will help.
Thanks.


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Monday, February 13, 2012

Ford Windstar transmission fluid leaking?

Look into the transmission fluid cooler inside the radiator..make sure its ok.
May have to add an additional external transmission fluid cooler .

Also one more possibility is faulty worn out torque converter seal.

If the seal goes out a gain then it probably needs a transmission overhaul.

Also Ford Windstar will  leak transmission fluid if the radiator is bad.Yes, it could leak it into the coolant if the radiator is bad. It usually doesn't cause a leak on the ground though unless the lines are broken or something outside the radiator.

If the torque converter seal is faulty,then to replace the front seal,the trans has to come out.

You will need to pull the transmission in order to change it out. The trans has to come out from the bottom.
Below are trans removal directions. Once removed, use seal puller to remove seal and install new front seal:

Remove or disconnect the following:
NOTE Leave the 2 lower engine-to-transaxle bolts in place to hold the transaxle secure against the engine block until a suitable jack can be placed under the transaxle to support it during removal.

NOTE Install engine lifting eyes to support the engine during transaxle removal.

Battery and battery tray Hood and cowl vent Air cleaner assembly All transaxle electrical harnesses Transaxle shift cable from the lever by unsnapping the shift cable end from the lever ball stud Transaxle fluid cooler lines

Upper transaxle-to-engine bolts Engine electrical harness bracket Battery cable bracket

Install an engine support kit and suitably support the engine.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove or disconnect the following:

Transaxle fluid Front wheels Halfshafts Bolts retaining the rear engine support to the transaxle Front subframe Speedometer cable from the vehicle speed sensor Starter Transaxle housing cover The 4 flexplate-to-converter nuts

Support the transaxle with a suitable jack and remove the remaining transaxle-to-engine bolts.
Remove the engine bracket-to-transaxle bolts.
Separate the transaxle from the engine block by carefully moving the transaxle rearward until enough clearance exists to remove the transaxle from the engine compartment.
Slowly lower the transaxle from the engine compartment.

To install:
Place the transaxle on a suitable jack and position it in place.
Install or connect the following:

Engine bracket-to-transaxle bolts, and tighten the bolts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm) Lower transaxle-to-engine bolts, and tighten the bolts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm) Flexplate-to-torque converter bolts, and tighten them to 20-34 ft. lbs. (27-46 Nm) Transaxle housing cover, and tighten the bolts to 80-106 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm) Starter motor, and connect the electrical harness Speedometer cable Front subframe The 4 bolts retaining the rear engine support, and tighten them to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm) Both halfshafts Front wheels and lower the vehicle

Remove the engine support kit.
Install or connect the following:

Transaxle electrical harnesses Upper transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm) Fluid cooler-to-transaxle lines Transaxle shift cable to the manual lever ball stud Air cleaner assembly Cowl vent and hood Battery tray and battery

Fill the transaxle with proper amount of Mercon fluid.
Connect the positive, then the negative battery cable.


This details will help.
Thanks.

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