Technical Car Experts Answers everything you need: engine

Showing posts with label engine. Show all posts

Sunday, September 22, 2013

Engine Will Not Start,Starter Turns ON

Starter spinning but the engine will not Crank

There are few possibilities that can cause the problems:---

The starter drive on your starter is faulty.

The starter drive is not engaging the flywheel to crank the engine.

The flywheel issue.The flywheel has some cracked or broken teeth that stops the starter from engaging.

Understand the starter system of the vehicle:---

On some starter the solenoid is mounted on top of the starter.

Now When the ignition key is turned to ON, the solenoid paths current to the starter motor and at the same time pulls a lever that forwards the drive gear mechanism out so it will engage the flywheel and crank the engine.

But when solenoid is weak or damaged, it may not be strong enough to overcome the spring tension that retracts the drive gear. So the starter spins but doesn't crank the engine. In your case this might be happening and that is what causing the problem.

On other type of starter assembly the solenoid is mounted remotely. In this starters when the starter motor starts to spin, it ratchets out so the drive gear will engage the flywheel and crank the engine. In this case if the drive mechanism is damaged or hung up, the motor may spin but not crank the engine.

In any case the starter motor has to be removed out to inspect the starter.

WHY ENGINE WILL NOT START:

This are due to few possible reasons.

What exactly any working engine needs to start?

Engine requires sufficient cranking speed, good compression, adequate ignition voltage (with correct timing) and fuel (a relatively rich air/fuel mixture initially). So whenever an engine is not able to start, any of the following is not performing.

If the engine won't crank, you are probably dealing with a starter or battery problem.

If an engine cranks but refuses to start, it lacks ignition, fuel or compression.

When the engine cranks ordinarily but won't start, you need to check ignition, fuel and compression. Ignition can be checked with a spark tester or by positioning a plug wire near a good ground.

No spark? The most likely causes would be a failed ignition module, distributor pickup or crank position (CKP) sensors.

Saturday, February 9, 2013

2005 Chrysler 300C: Has No Heat & Also has No start Problem

Troubleshooting No Heat And No Start Problem

Its 2005 Chrysler 300C, :
The problem Description:
While I was driving I heard a noise like a hose had broken followed by the noise and after that heater no longer worked I then heard a sound like something was dragging under my car. Then I noticed that there was a lightening bolt symbol and a slippery or loss of traction symbol.

Now my car will not start.
Please Help?

Follow Troubleshooting:-----

From your description it sounds like you may have lost a radiator or heater hose, allowed the coolant to escape and kept driving while it severely overheated. And that is what you noticed.

The first thing you'll need to do is check the coolant level and look around the engine compartment for sprayed coolant and the damaged hose or cooling system component.

Also let me know what happens when you try to start the engine, does it not crank? See if it cranks now that it has cooled off overnight. When severely overheated and driven that way catastrophic engine damage can be done.

Clients Reply:

The engine just make whine noise and will not start.
And as per your details No coolant was found the reservoir was completely empty and mechanic says that most likely the engine will not start again.

What are potential options for replacement? Can the engine for this model be replaced with that of a lower model or does it have to be the same 5.7L hemi?

EXPERT'S REPLY:

As per my experience there are a few options for replacement.

Most expensive would be a Mopar or aftermarket re-manufactured engine.
The cost will be very high for this brands, but benefit is you would have the longest warranty and would last the longest. There will be quite a few options available at different parts stores and suppliers, warranty and prices will vary.

Other option is try to find a used engine from a salvage yard. This will be the cheapest way to fix it but likely wouldn't last as long as a re-manufactured engine, unless you were able to find a low mileage unit. Replacing it with a used engine would be the cheapest route.

This car also came with either the 2.7 or 3.5 engine models, but swapping one of those in would be more expensive in the long run. You'd need all engine accessories, exhaust, complete wiring harness, fuel and evaporation emissions lines, the transmission and powertrain control module from a six cylinder car. If you decided to do this it would be cheapest to try to find a wrecked six cylinder car to take all the components from.

Also Note one more thing the Replacement unit comes with two types, short blocks and long blocks

A short block is the block, crank, pistons and cam. A long block is the same but comes with the cylinder heads and valvetrain. If yours has been overheated then you're going to need a long block as the heads won't be reusable.

I suggest get the help of professional mechanic who knows these job very well.Do it yourself will not be that easy to complete these task properly.

Hope all goes well.

Thursday, June 28, 2012

Jeep Liberty Limited ENGINE PROBLEMS

Multiple problems starter after replacing engine.

2002 jeep liberty limited engine replaced by shop,after that noise started coming from A/C system.

It can be heard under hood.Its a knocking vibration noise.

THE TROUBLESHOOTING FOR THIS PROBLEM IS AS FOLLOWS:---

Try this test get under the hood.

Grasp the A/C tube on the passanger side near the Evaporator which is near to the firewall.see if you notice the notice there.

It's very possible that vibration or knock from an a/c line or the exhaust after the engine replacement. Most probably the exhaust is not adjusted correctly on the collectors and that is hitting the frame and noise is heard, or issue with trans crossmember, etc. If the flange in front of the muffler is misadjusted then it will cause the muffler to knock against the right rear lower control arm bolt, which is a great possibility in your case.

INSPECT THE A/C lines.The lines are very delicate to get bent.

The same goes for the a/c lines. They are soft aluminum and can be bent easily, and there is quite a bit of a/c line, wiring, and other components that have to be routed correctly under the hood or things will knock against each other.

If the noise was coming from the compressor then it would be a very fast knocking noise that only happened when the compressor was engaged, and it would come from the compressor itself. You shouldn't have a question if the noise was coming from the compressor.

In this case

I personally recommend taking it back to the shop that just did the engine work because it sounds like the exhaust and a/c line issues are going to be directly related to the work they did.

at present the case is not worse,but can be a major issue.the noise you hear is the starting,but can increase in future and cause severe engine or A/c related issues.

This details will .

Thanks.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

For All types of Car models and brands help
Go to Newly Launched

FREE Car repair guide?
http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/03/car-repair-guide.html

&
Complete Car repair Help FREE?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.in/2012/03/complete-car-repair-help.html

Friday, December 9, 2011

How to Remove Engine on Toyota Previa?

Removing engine is not simple job.If possible do it with the help of helper.Keep all required tools and procedure ready.Its a time consuming job.

The details are as follows :----

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system" or "remove the radiator." In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found elsewhere in this guide.

It is virtually impossible to list each individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured. Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches to any repair procedure.

Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:

If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.

Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.

Because there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.

After unbolting the transmission, always make sure it is properly supported.

If it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the compressor and set it aside.

When unbolting the engine mounts, always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.

Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.

After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.

After the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown of the engine using the procedures outlined in this guide.

CAUTION

Fuel injection systems remain under pressure after the engine has been turned OFF. Properly relieve fuel pressure before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire or personal injury.

Disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 90 seconds to proceed working on the vehicle if equipped with an airbag.

CAUTION

Some models covered by this guide may be equipped with a Supplemental Restraint System (SRS), which uses an air bag. Whenever working near any of the SRS components, such as the impact sensors, the air bag module, steering column and instrument panel, disable the SRS, as described in Chassis Electrical .

Drain the engine coolant and oil.

Relieve the fuel system pressure.

Raise the vehicle and support safely. Remove the engine under covers.

Drain the engine oil and cooling system.

On 4WD vehicles, disconnect the front driveshaft.

Remove the rear driveshaft.

Remove the air duct.

Matchmark and disconnect the equipment (separated accessory drive system) driveshaft from the crankshaft pulley.

Disconnect the A/T shift cable.

Remove the air intake duct.

Disconnect the ground strap from the left hand front engine mounting.

Disconnect the starter wire.

Disconnect the following hoses:

No. 4 radiator hose from the water inlet
No. 1 radiator hose from the water inlet
Heater hose from the water pump
Oil auto feeder hose from the No. 1 oil return pipe
Disconnect the A/C idle up air hose from the union under the intake manifold
Disconnect the power steering idle up air hose from the union under the intake manifold
Disconnect the water bypass hose from the floor pipe
Disconnect the brake booster hose from the floor pipe
Disconnect the two vacuum hoses for the fuel pressure control Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) from the engine wire and vacuum transmitting pipe on the throttle body
Air hose for the distributor ventilation from the water bypass pipe under the intake manifold
Disconnect the vacuum hose for the EVAP from the charcoal canister

If equipped with automatic transmission, disconnect the shift cable.

Remove the intake pipe hose.

Disconnect the accelerator cable from the throttle body.

Disengage the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) connector for the fuel pressure control.

Disconnect the engine wire from the engine left side as follows:
1. Disengauge the igniter connector.
2. Disconnect the two Electronic Control Module (ECM) harnesses.
3. Disconnect the four harnesses from the cowl wire on the front floor panel.
4. Separate the engine wire from the front floor panel by removing the bolt and detaching the three clamps.
5. Pull out the engine wire from the front floor panel hose.

Remove the A/T oil dipstick.

Disconnect the fuel inlet and return hoses.

Remove the front exhaust pipe.

Remove the exhaust pipe heat insulator and ground strap by removing the four bolts.

Disconnect the two A/T oil cooler hoses.

Remove the ignition coil and disconnect the ground strap for the engine.

Disconnect the condenser wiring.

Disconnect the four clamps and engine wire.

Disconnect the A/T and park/neutral position switch wiring.

Remove the engine with the transmission as follows:
1. Support the engine and transmission with a supporting device.
2. Lower the vehicle while supporting the engine and transmission with the engine lifter.
3. Remove the two bolts, two nuts and two plate washers holding the right and left engine mountings to the engine front support member.
4. Remove the four through bolts, four plate washers and four nuts holding the rear mounting to the No. 2 rear engine mounting bracket.
5. Make sure the engine and transmission are clear of all wiring, hoses and cables.
6. Lower the engine and transmission to the floor.

Install the engine in the reverse order of removal while paying close attention to the following.

Raise the engine and install the two bolts, two plate washers and two nuts to hold the right and left engine front mountings to the engine front support member. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 27 ft. lbs. (37 Nm).

Install the two through bolts, four washers and four nuts to hold the engine rear mounting to the No. 2 rear engine mounting bracket. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 31 ft. lbs. (42 Nm).

Install the rear driveshaft. If equipped with 4WD, install the front driveshaft. Install a new oil filter and fill the engine with oil. Fill the engine with engine coolant. Install the engine undercovers. Start the engine and check for leaks.

----------------

This basic details will help.Thanks.

------------------

If you need dis-assembly or replacement instructions for any other auto/car part, or you want to ask question related to your car/truck jeep problem then please leave the comment with your details, so I can provide you the required instructions and solutions.

For more car help solutions,see the list below:----