Check fuse 19 and verify that it is showing 12v on both sides of it. The deck lid release switch would then be something to check. You should find 12v on the pink wire, and when you close the switch it should show 12v on black/white wire. From there it goes on the black/white to pin 1 of the gray plug of the body control module under the dash on the rear side of the dash fuse box. The body control module is then supposed to apply 12v to the black/white wire that runs to the rear at the deck lid release solenoid and that should click and open the latch. So have a helper try to release the lid while you measure for voltage and listen at the solenoid in the rear when it is positioned in the locked configuration. The black wire at the solenoid should be grounded to the chassis nearby. It thus could be the solenoid, the release switch, the body control module, or the wires that I listed not being properly conducting. You will need to trace the circuit using a 12v glow light or a voltmeter.---------------
If you don't have power at terminal #3 when you press the trunk release switch, then you have either a bad trunk release switch or a broken wire between the switch and trunk release solenoid. Pop out the trunk release switch and check for power at terminal #2 and terminal #1 when the switch is pressed. If you have power at #2, but not at #1, jump the terminals. The trunk should pop open and that confirms a bad release switch.If nothing happens, then you have a break in the wire. The harness is routed back there, if there is a harness going from the body to the trunk lid, open it up and there's a good chance the broken wire is in there.
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Read this conversation:-----
customer:---
I have 99 dodge Intrepid and trunk will not release with its button.
It has 3 wires going to
it. The center wire is always live, the two outside wires don't recieve
power with the trunk release button pushed or not pushed. Does anyone
have any ideas on what the problem may be.
The solid black wire is a ground and I do get 12 volts on the tan/black
wire. The 12 volts is always there.... when the trunk release button
is or is not pushed.
Should the third wire not be energized when the trunk release button is
pushed?
Does the ignition have to be on to opent he trunk?
EXPERT:---
The dash switch sends a signal to the BCM.
BK/WT wire going to the solenoid is the wire straight from the BCM to
actuate the solenoid. It is one of the outside wires on the connector.
It should light up when the dash button is pushed.
Since you say the BK/WT wire does not get power when you push the remote
or dash button, then either the BCM is not putting out voltage to that
wire, or there is a break in the connection from the BCM or in that
BK/WT wire.
The BK wire - the other outside wire - is the ground for the solenoid coil.
See if you get some reasonable coil resistance reading across the two
terminals on the solenoid.
Based on what you posted (no voltage on either outside wire when button
pushed), it sounds like the problem is not the solenoid.
Middle wire is the ajar signal - don't worry about that. The BK/WT wire
is the solenoid voltage signal from the BCM to the solenoid - and from
what you posted previously, appears to be the problem
-----------
CUSTOMER :---
While waiting on a reply I put 12 volts to the third "mysterious" wire
terminal on the trunk release. When I did this the latch opens fine.
This leads me to believe that the problem is somewhere else. When I
push the trunk release button I have to be able to energize that third
terminal. .... any ideas on where the problem may be?
--------
EXPERT:---
Yes - exactly as I told you from what you already had posted - the
problem is *not* in the solenoid. The signal is either not coming out
of the BCM or their is a break in the connection between the BCM output
and the solenoid connector.
--------
CUSTOMER :--
Should I be starting to look for a disconnected wire at the BCM? Where
is it? Are there numbers or any other sort of ID on the wires coming
out of it?
----------
EXPERT:--
BCM is in the Junction Block - that's the fuse panel at the driver's
left foot kick panel. It has 4 connectors: grey, black, white, blue..
That BK/WT wire is in the grey connector. It's pin no. 1, so of course
should be at the end of the connector.
Before doing anything else, you might try pulling the fuse for the BCM
for a few minutes to reset it. Sometimes problems like this are fixed
by doing that - too easy, I know, but worth a try. Fuse No. 19 in the
Power Distribution Center - under the hood on driver's side towards front.
-----------
CUSTOMER:--- PROBLEM SOLVED:--
Hooray!
I tracked the problem down to an open wire in the trunk wiring harness.
It was open where the wire repeatedly bends when the lid is opened /
closed. Spliced in a new wire and everything works fine.... the trunk
even opens from the key fob remote!
I must admit that I was starting to get a bit nervous about the BCM,
especially after you (Greg) said that your dealer had to replace your
BCM serveral times before they managed to fix the problem.
--------
EXPERT:--
THANKS for the update.-------
