Thats an easy one, 3 pushpins in each inner fender, take out the grille with 4 screws, 4? in top of bumper, 5? pushpins in bottom and it falls off
If you have fog lights be sure to unplug them too.
Becareful, there are two hook-type clips (one each side) located on the top of the bumper itself, just below the headlight/turn signal assembley. If you break those, the bumper will not lock into place along the top. You need to locate those, push the bumper (toward the engine), insert a long flat head screw driver, and push down on the hook/clip and then pull the bumper out while holding down the clip. I found out the hard way by breaking the driver side. That corner doesn't fit up very well now.
These aren't the best pics, but they might be helpful.
We were able to gently lift the radiator a tiny bit by loosening the bolts and prying up on the lower supports with a big flat head screwdriver. It gave juuuust enough wiggle room to pop those little bolt brackets in.
We were able to gently lift the radiator a tiny bit by loosening the bolts and prying up on the lower supports with a big flat head screwdriver. It gave juuuust enough wiggle room to pop those little bolt brackets in.
A helpful hint on the bumper clips located under the signal lights.
Instead of trying to use a giant screw driver use the shortest, fattest, flat head you have. Insert the flat head in between the fascia and the clip by reaching up from underneath. Then twist the driver which separates them and with your other hand pull the fascia out and off. I spent an hour trying to use different tools and none of them worked. I spent less than 2 minutes on both clips once I used the short and fat flat head.
Instead of trying to use a giant screw driver use the shortest, fattest, flat head you have. Insert the flat head in between the fascia and the clip by reaching up from underneath. Then twist the driver which separates them and with your other hand pull the fascia out and off. I spent an hour trying to use different tools and none of them worked. I spent less than 2 minutes on both clips once I used the short and fat flat head.
An even better solution when using an OEM hook kit - replace the "bolt plate" with a piece of steel with two holes drilled in it. Then, through-bolt it using grade 5+ hardware. By placing the nuts on top, you will eliminate the need to pry up on the radiator/condenser and you will also wind up with a stronger union by using new, high quality fasteners.
INCLUDED PARTS:
(1)- LEFT HAND BRACKET
(1)- RIGHT HAND BRACKET
(12)– 7/16” x 1” bolt
(12)– 7/16” flat washer
(12)– 7/16” Nylock nut
(2) - hook kits
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Installation Instructions:
(1) Secure vehicle by properly blocking tires before commencing installation. Make sure to disconnect any
driving or fog lights from bumper. Remove the factory bumper, retain all mounting bolts as they will be
reused later in when the bumper is reinstalled. Remove the front sway bar linkage.
(2) With the front bumper removed, place the tow hook bracket on the front of the unitized sub frame. Insert
the four 7/16” bolts through the bracket into the sub frame, Place the four washers onto the frame and
start the four Nylock nuts. This portion of the installation may require patience as there is limited space to
position fingers up into the sub frame.
NOTE: Don’t tighten at this time.
(3) Once all bolts are put into place and nuts are installed, torque the four bolts first, torque to 55-ft. lb.. Then
torque the front bolts and nuts to 55 ft. lb.. Repeat installing the other bracket on the opposite side.
Put the sway bar back into place and reconnect linkage.
(4) Once all the bracket mounting bolts and nuts are torque to specs reinstall the factory bumper using the
original hardware from step 1.
(5) With the front bumper in place install the tow hook to the frame brackets, torque to 65 ft. lb. Reconnect
any turn signal or lighting wires that where disconnected during the removal of the front bumper.
