Front Driveshaft and Universal Joints
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 10
- Jack up the front of the vehicle and support with jackstands.
- Place matchmarks on the flanges. Remove the 4 nuts and bolts.
- Remove the front driveshaft dust cover. Some types are equipped with 2 bolts, while others use 4.
- Remove the driveshaft dust cover subassembly. The three bolts are two different sizes.
The driveshaft dust cover is located around the outer portion of the U-joint. On some models you may have an upper and lower.
- Suspend the front side of the driveshaft.
- Place matchmarks on the flanges. Remove the 4 nuts and bolts.
- Remove the front driveshaft.
- Align the matchmarks on the rear flanges, then connect the flanges with the nuts and/or bolts. Tighten to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm).
- Install the front driveshaft dust cover subassembly. Tighten bolts A to 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm) and B to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm).
- Align the matchmarks on the front flanges, then connect the flanges with the bolts and nuts. Tighten to 54 ft. lbs. (74 Nm).
- Install the front driveshaft dust cover. Tighten the bolts to 13 ft. lbs. (17 Nm) and the nuts to 10 ft. lbs. (13 Nm).
- Attach the rear driveshaft flange to the companion flange on the transfer case. Align the matchmarks on the flanges, then connect the flanges with the bolts and nuts. Tighten to 54-56 ft. lbs. (74-76 Nm).
- Lower the vehicle and road test it.
U-JOINT REPLACEMENT
See Figures 11 through 15
- Raise and support the vehicle.
- Remove the driveshaft.
- Matchmark the yoke and the driveshaft.
- Remove the snaprings from the bearings. There are two types of snaprings; Toyota and Dana.
- Position the yoke on vise jaws. Using a bearing remover and a hammer, gently tap the remover until the bearing is driven out of the yoke about 1 in. (25mm).
- Place the tool in the vise and drive the yoke away from the tool until the bearing is removed.
- Repeat Steps 4 and 5 for the other bearings.
- Check for worn or damaged parts. Inspect the bearing journal surfaces for wear.
- Install the bearing cups, seals, and O-rings in the spider.
- Apply multi-purpose grease to a new spider and bearings. Be careful not to apply too much grease.
- Position the spider into the yoke.
- Start the bearings in the yoke, then press them into place, using a vise. Repeat for the other bearings.
- If the axial play of the spider is greater than 0.0020 in. (0.05mm), select snaprings which will provide the correct play. Be sure that the snaprings are the same size on both sides or driveshaft noise and vibration will result.
- Check the U-joint assembly for smooth operation.
When replacing the driveshaft U-joints on a 4WD vehicle, be sure that the grease fitting is accessible after the joint is assembled.
Center Bearing
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The center support bearing is a sealed unit which requires no periodic maintenance. The following procedure should be used if it becomes necessary to replace the bearing. Toyota does not supply individual parts for the bearing replacement only the assembly. See your local jobber if necessary.
- Remove the intermediate driveshaft and the center support bearing assembly.
- Paint mating marks on the universal joint flange and the intermediate driveshaft.
- Remove the cotter pin and castle nut from the intermediate driveshaft; the nut will be staked. Remove the universal joint flange from the driveshaft using a press.
- Remove the center support bearing assembly from the driveshaft.
- Remove the two bolts from the bearing housing and remove the housing.
- Remove the dust deflectors from both sides of the bearing cushion. Remove the dust deflectors from either side of the bearing.
- Remove the snaprings from each side of the bearing. This is easy to do if you have a snapring tool which fits the holes in the ring, and very difficult otherwise. Remove the bearing.
- Install the new bearing into the cushion and fit a snapring on each side.
- Apply a coat of multi-purpose grease to the dust deflectors and put them in their respective places on each side of the bearing. The single deflector with a slightly larger diameter goes on the rear of the bearing.
- Press the dust deflector onto each side of the cushion. The water drain holes in the deflectors should be in the same position on each side of the cushion. The water drain holes should face the bottom of the housing.
- Press the support bearing assembly firmly onto the intermediate driveshaft, with the seal facing front.
- Match the mating marks painted earlier, and install the universal joint flange to the driveshaft. Install the center bearing on the intermediate shaft and tighten the nut to 134 ft. lbs. (181 Nm). Loosen the nut and then retighten it to 51 ft. lbs. (69 Nm). Stake the nut.
Check to see if the center support bearing assembly will rotate smoothly around the driveshaft.
- When reinstalling the driveshaft, be certain to match up the marks on both the front transmission flange and the flange on the sleeve yoke of the rear driveshaft.
As with all engine components, the harmonic balancer will eventually fail and need to be replaced. The rubber layer between the metal parts is often the source of the failure. The adhesive bond between them can fail and cause the parts to slip, reducing the amount of power transferred. The engine accessories may not function properly when this happens as they do not turn at the required speed. The rubber can also break apart internally and cause a total failure of the balancer. Cracks on the visible edge of the rubber layer are a sign that it is deteriorating. The seal behind the balancer should also be replaced if there is oil leaking from it, as oil makes the rubber deteriorate faster.
It is often difficult to remove the harmonic balancer because of its tight fit with the crankshaft. However, a special tool called a balancer puller can make the task easier. The puller is a metal hub that attaches to the balancer with several bolts, and has a center bolt that presses against the end of the crankshaft. When the center bolt is turned, the puller pushes against the crankshaft and draws the balancer off it. After the balancer has been removed, the shaft key and slot should be inspected for damage and the key replaced if there are any chips or cracks.
Installing a harmonic balancer can be just as difficult as removing it. The contact surfaces on the crankshaft and balancer should be lightly oiled so that they slide together more easily. The balancer can be pushed onto the crankshaft by turning a bolt in the center hole. Since the locking bolt is too small for this, a larger bolt must be found with the same thread. To avoid stripping the thread in the crankshaft, the bolt should have several turns on it before any force is applied. It may be necessary to first tap the balancer on with a rubber mallet. Once the balancer is on the crankshaft, the locking bolt is secured with the correct torque.
The harmonic balancer in your Toyota is the crankshaft pulley. The balancer helps to reduce the effect of resonance that originates from the natural combustion cycle in your engine. This resonance, if left unchecked, could cause the crankshaft to fail. Under normal circumstances, you should never have to replace the harmonic balancer, but you may need to remove it in order to change the timing belt.Loosen the lug nuts on your driver's side wheel. You will turn the lug nuts only 45 degrees counterclockwise to do this.
Jack up on the front jack point located behind the radiator.
Place jack stands underneath the front pinch welds. On the Toyota , these will be located under the driver's and passenger's front door (under the car). Or in two door models, near the front of the driver's and passenger's door. Lower the car onto the jack stands.
Finish loosening the lug nuts and remove the wheel
Pry the plastic rivets out of the splash guard in the wheel well and remove the splash guard.
Locate the harmonic balancer. It will be the pulley directly behind the splash guard you just removed.
Loosen and remove the crank pulley bolt that holds the harmonic balancer in place using the crankshaft bolt remover tool. The tool prevents the pulley from moving while you loosen the bolt. You'll have to use an impact gun to loosen this bolt.
Place the crank pulley remover tool over the harmonic balancer and turn the tool's bolts clockwise to pull the balancer off. This tool will grab the pulley and let you pull it off the crankshaft. To do this, it has "arms" that grab the side of the pulley, and a bolt that pushes against the end of the crankshaft to pry the pulley off.
Use an impact wrench. The 3/8 inch models do not have enough torque for this job so use a 1/2 in wrench. Jam the belt with a piece of wood so the pulley doesn't turn. Use an socket designed for an impact wrench, which has a tighter fit on the crankshaft (or "harmonic balancer") bolt head than a socket meant for a hand tool. This will keep you from marring the bolt head. The bolt is threaded normally, not reverse threaded.
I am a believer in using hand tools wherever possible. The service manual shows the use of a special hand tool. It is a semi-circular piece of metal attached to a handle. The semicircle is attached to the crankshaft pulley by two bolts that go through two holes that you can see in the pulley. The idea is to hold the pulley with this tool. The semicircle leaves the pulley bolt exposed so you can put a wrench over it and turn it. However it would be hard to find this tool for sale in the USA. To losen the pulley bolt you will need a breaker bar with a long extension. If you have the car up on a lift then you have room for a long handle, but if you have it on jackstands you won't. My conclusion is that the impact wrench is the practical way.
Camshaft Sprockets or Pulleys
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
22R and 22R-E Engines
See Figures 1 through 6
The cam sprocket is removed from the camshaft as part of the rocker assembly removal. If the sprocket is to be removed from the chain, support the chain with a piece of wood, keeping the chain engaged to the lower sprocket. If the chain comes off the bottom sprocket, the timing chain covers must be removed and the chain correctly installed. Refer to Timing Chain Removal and Installation in this section.
- Remove the valve cover.
- Turn the crankshaft until the No. 1 cylinder position is set at TDC compression. Matchmark the sprocket and chain.
- Remove the halfmoon plug from the front of the cylinder head.
- Unbolt the cam sprocket.
- Remove the distributor drive gear and camshaft thrust plate.
- Remove the cam sprocket. Using a piece of wire, support the chain to keep it in position for sprocket installation.
To install:
- While holding up on the sprocket and chain, turn the crankshaft until No. 1 and No. 4 cylinders reach TDC.
- Place the sprocket over the camshaft dowel. If the chain does not seem long enough on replacement, turn the crankshaft back and forth while pulling up on the chain and sprocket.
- Place the distributor drive gear and camshaft thrust plate over the chain sprocket. Tighten the bolt to 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm).
- Install the halfmoon plug on the cylinder head.
- Install the valve cover.
- Remove the timing belt.
- Use a properly installed counter-holding tool, remove the pulley bolt, the pulley and the match pin. Note that the left and right pulleys are different; label them to avoid confusion at reassembly.
To install:
- Align the camshaft match pin hole with the marks on the upper rear timing belt cover. This places the pin holes straight up.
- Install the timing pulleys, observing correct placement of the left and right pulleys. Install the bolts, but do not install the match pin. Check that the bolt head is not touching the pulley (Its not completely tight yet). Align the timing mark on each pulley with the marks on the No. 3 timing cover.
- Install the timing belt, following the procedures given in this section. After the engine has been rotated two full revolutions and the timing marks checked, tighten the idler pulley bolt.
- Remove the camshaft timing pulley bolts. Align the pulley match pin hole with the hole in the camshaft; install the match pin. Reinstall the camshaft pulley bolts.
- Using a properly installed counter-holding tool, tighten the pulley bolts to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Take great care not to nick or damage the timing belt.
- Continue with the re-installation of the timing belt.
Driven Disc and Pressure Plate
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1 through 27
- Remove the transmission.
- Matchmark the clutch cover (pressure plate) and flywheel, indicating their relationship.
- Loosen the clutch cover-to-flywheel retaining bolts one turn at a time in a crisscross pattern. The pressure on the clutch disc must be released GRADUALLY.
- Remove the clutch cover-to-flywheel bolts. Remove the clutch cover and the clutch disc.
- If the clutch throwout bearing is to be replaced, do so at this time as follows:
- Remove the bearing retaining clip(s) and remove the bearing and hub.
- Remove the release fork and the boot.
- The bearing is press fit to the hub. Turn the bearing by hand while placing it under some pressure; check for freedom of motion and lack of grinding or resistance. The bearing is permanently lubricated and cannot be disassembled or greased.
- Clean all parts; lightly grease the input shaft splines and all of the contact points.
- Install the bearing/hub assembly, fork, boot, and retaining clip(s) in their original locations.
- Inspect the flywheel surface for cracks, heat scoring (blue marks), and warpage. If oil is present on the flywheel surface, this indicates that either the engine rear oil seal or the transmission front oil seal is leaking. If necessary, replace the seal(s). If in doubt concerning the condition of the flywheel, consult an automotive machine shop.
- Before installing any new parts, make sure that they are clean. During installation, do not get grease or oil on any of the components, as this will shorten clutch life considerably. Grease or fingerprints may be cleaned with an evaporative cleaner such as the type used on brake linings.
To install:
- Position the clutch disc against the flywheel. The long side of the splined section faces the flywheel.
- Install the clutch cover over the disc and install the bolts loosely. Align the matchmarks made. If a new or rebuilt clutch cover assembly is installed, use the matchmark on the old cover assembly as a reference.
Whenever the clutch disc is replaced, replacement of the pressure plate (clutch cover) and release bearing is highly recommended.
- Align the clutch disc with the flywheel using a clutch aligning tool. These handy tools are available in many auto parts stores at a reasonable price. Do NOT attempt to align the clutch disc by eye; use an alignment tool.
- With the clutch aligning tool installed, tighten the clutch cover bolts gradually in a star pattern, as is done with lug nuts. Final tighten the bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm).
- Apply molybdenum disulfide grease or multi-purpose grease to the release fork contact points, the pivot and the clutch disc splines. Install the boot, fork, and bearing on the transmission input shaft.
- Install the transmission.