Turn off your Land Cruiser and prop open the hood.
Remove the four screws on top of the headlight assembly holding it in place.
Stand in front of the headlight and pull it toward you. Spray a lubricant into the underside of the headlight if it doesn't come out easily. Do not jerk it completely away from the Land Cruiser, since the wiring still connects it to the vehicle.
Disconnect the wiring harness from the back of the headlight once you've removed the headlight enough to reach the wires.
Pull the headlight completely free from the Land Cruiser. Install the replacement headlight by sliding it onto the grooves the former headlight sat on, connecting the wiring harness, and securing it with the original four mounting screws.
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Headlights, like any other lighting device, can fail due to broken filaments. The front of any truck is the worst possible location for a lighting device since it is subject to impact, extensive temperature change and severe vibration-all of which shorten the life of the light. The front of the truck is also where good lighting is needed the most so its not uncommon to have to replace a headlight during the life of the vehicle.
There are two general styles of headlamps, the sealed beam and replaceable bulb type. The sealed beam is by far the most common and includes almost all of the circular and rectangular lamps found on vehicles built through the 1980s. The sealed beam is so named because it includes the lamp (filament), the reflector and the lens in one sealed unit. Sealed beams are available in several sizes and shapes.
The replaceable bulb is the newer technology. Using a small halogen bulb, only the lamp is replaced, while the lens and reflector are part of the body of the car. This is generally the style found on wrap-around or "European'' lighting systems. While the replaceable bulbs are more expensive than sealed beams, they generally produce more and better light. The fixed lenses and reflectors can be engineered to allow better frontal styling and better light distribution for a particular vehicle.
It is quite possible to replace a headlight of either type without affecting the alignment (aim) of the light. Sealed beams mount into a bracket (bucket) to which springs are attached. The adjusting screws control the position of the bucket which in turn aims the light. Replaceable bulbs simply fit into the back of the reflector. The lens and reflector unit are aimed by separate adjusting screws.
Take a moment before disassembly to identify the large adjusting screws (generally two for each lamp, one above and one at the side) and don't change their settings.
With the exception of the oldest vehicles, sealed beams are removed from the outside of the car. Start with the outer trim pieces and work your way in to the lamp and its retainer. Bulb type units are almost always replaced from under the hood.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATIONSealed Beams
See Figures 1 through 5
- Make sure the headlight switch is in the off position.
- Loosen the parking and side turn signal unit retaining screws. Then remove the units unplugging the connectors.
Fig. Fig. 1: After removing the parking lamp screws, push on the grille clips to release the grille from the truck
- Next, open the hood to gain access to the grille clips. Using a flat-bladded tool, push on the clips to release them and the grille.
Fig. Fig. 2: Remove the grille from the truck and set aside
- The sealed beam is held in place by a retainer and either 2 or 4 small screws. Identify these screws before applying any tools.DO NOT confuse the small retaining screws with the larger aiming screws. There will be two aiming screws or adjustors for each lamp. (One adjustor controls the up/down motion and the other controls the left/right motion.) Identify the adjustors and avoid them during removal. If they are not disturbed, the new headlamp will be in identical aim to the old one.
Fig. Fig. 3: Remove the headlight bezel which is secured by screws
- Using a small screwdriver (preferably magnetic) and a pair of taper-nose pliers if necessary, remove the small screws in the headlamp retainer. DON'T drop the screws; they vanish into unknown locations.
Fig. Fig. 4: Be careful when removing the headlight bezels, they can be sharp
A good kitchen or household magnet placed on the shank of the screwdriver will provide enough grip to hold the screw during removal.
- Remove the retainer and the headlamp may be gently pulled free from its mounts. Detach the connector from the back of the sealed beam unit and remove the unit from the car.
Fig. Fig. 5: Pull the light out, then unplug the wiring harness from behind it
To install:
- Place the new headlamp in position and connect the wiring harness. Remember to install the rubber boot on the back of the new lamp; its a water seal. Make sure the headlight is right-side up.
- Have an assistant turn on the headlights and check the new lamp for proper function, checking both high and low beams before final assembly.
- Install the retainer and the small screws that hold it.
- Reinstall the headlight bezel and/or grille.
RETAINING RING TYPE
See Figures 6 and 7
- With the ignition switch OFF and the headlamp switch OFF, raise and prop the hood.
- On Pick-Ups and 4Runners, remove the grille and headlamp assembly.
Fig. Fig. 6: Remove the headlamp, then unplug the connector
- On Land Cruisers:
- If the right headlamp is to be changed, lift out the coolant reserve tank. Place the tank in an out of the way location but NOT on the battery or engine. Don't spill any coolant.
- If the left headlamp is to be changed:
- Remove the air duct (3 bolts).
- Remove the air suction silencer and the air switching valve. Label the hoses so they go back in the correct places.
- Remove the underhood cooling fan. Its held by 3 bolts; don't forget to disconnect the electrical harness.
- Unplug the connector from the back of the lamp. The connector may be very tight and require wiggling to loosen; support the lamp while with your other hand while wiggling the connector loose.
Fig. Fig. 7: Turn the bulb retaining ring counterclockwise, then take out the bulb
- Turn the bulb socket about 45° counterclockwise to loosen it. Remove the bulb.
- Install the new bulb with the socket pointing up. Make certain all three guide tabs fit into their correct slots. Turn the socket clockwise to lock it in place.
- Connect the wiring connector firmly.
- Turn the headlights ON and check both high and low beam function.
- Turn the headlights OFF.
- Reinstall the underhood fan, air switching valve, silencer, hoses and ducting (left side) or the coolant reservoir tank (right side).
- Lower the hood.
See Figures 8 through 12
- With the ignition switch OFF and the headlamp switch OFF, raise and prop the hood.
- Unplug the connector for the bulb.
Fig. Fig. 8: Turn the bulb retaining ring counterclockwise, then remove the ring
- Turn the plastic cover counterclockwise, then remove it.
Fig. Fig. 9: Remove the rubber cover
- Remove the rubber cover.
- Release the bulb retaining spring, then remove the bulb.
Fig. Fig. 10: Removing and installing the retaining spring
- Align the tabs of the bulb with the cutout of the mounting hole and install the bulb.
- Install the retaining spring, then attach the rubber cover. Make sure the rubber cover is snug on the connector and the headlight body.
Fig. Fig. 11: Make sure the rubber cover is snug on the connector and the headlight body
- Install the plastic cover with the ON mark facing upwards. Turn it clockwise, then insert the connector.
Fig. Fig. 12: Install the plastic cover with the ON mark facing upwards. Turn it clockwise, then insert the connector
- Aiming is not necessary after replacing these types of bulbs.
Excluding Land Cruiser
See Figure 13
The head lamps should be aimed using a special alignment tool, however this procedure may be used for temporary adjustment. Local regulations may vary regarding head lamp aiming, consult with your local authorities.
Fig. Fig. 13: Headlamp adjusting screw locations
- Verify the tires are at their proper inflation pressure. Clean the head lamp lenses and make sure there are no heavy loads in the trunk. The gas tank should be filled.
- Position the vehicle on a level surface facing a flat wall 25 ft. (7.7 m) away.
- Measure and record the distance from the floor to the center of the head lamp. Place a strip of tape across the wall at this same height.
- Place strips of tape on the wall, perpendicular to the first measurement, indicating the vehicle centerline and the centerline of both head lamps.
- Rock the vehicle side-to-side a few times to allow the suspension to stabilize.
- Turn the lights on, adjust the head lamps to achieve a high intensity pattern.
See Figures 13 and 14
Fig. Fig. 14: Land Cruisers have a bubble gauge to aid in aiming
- Before checking the headlamp aim:
- Be sure that the body around the headlamp is not deformed.
- Park the vehicle on a level spot.
- Bounce in the vehicle a few times to get the truck at a level point.
- Look at the beam angle gauge (vertical movement). The bubble of the gauge should not move out of the center of the gauge by more than two marks on either the upward or downward scale of the gauge.
- Look at the beam angle gauge (horizontal movement). The red mark should not move by more than one mark on either side of the gauge.
- If the error is over the specified marks, take your vehicle to a specialized shop to have the headlamps adjusted professionally.
