Showing posts with label overheating. Show all posts

Sunday, September 29, 2013

Temperature gauge will go up to hot

Vehicles Temperature needle gets to hot mark very quickly

First thing here is " Do you really notice engine overheating?'
Or its just the temperature needle getting to hot and engine is normal to run.

On that case the temperature unit needs to be inspected.

The most common possibilities for such problems are:---

Low coolant.Check the level of coolant.
Electric cooling fan not working.Faulty fan motor.Or fan motor wire cut in between.
A bad radiator fan switch.
Thermostat not opening.
A worn out waterpump.
Fan belt is broken.
Radiator clogged and needs cleaning or replacement.

May be its worn out thermostat or issue with water pump.

If the engine is really getting overheat so quickly then the problem lies with faulty headgasket.

Or clog in radiator itself.

The first thing to do is to make sure the colling fan runs when the engine temp is above 222 F with the a/c off. The engine control module (ECM) controls the relay for the fan. When the temp exceeds 222 f then the fan is commanded on until the engine temp decrease below 212 f. If the fan is not coming on then that would be a problem to check into first. The ECM also commands the engine cooling fan on when the a/c is on and vehicle speed is below 70 mph. So if the cooling fan comes on when the a/c is on but not when idling then we need to look at the engine coolant temp sensor input, or possibly the ECM itself. If the engine has a cylinder head gasket failure usually they do just the opposite, run hot at highway speeds and cool down at idle.
Also it can be faulty fan motor assembly or fan motor wires are cut and not letting fan to come on.

If waterpump and thermostat are already replaced and still you notice the problem then,When you installed the thermostat and water pump did you bleed the cooling system of air. When you do any kind of work on the cooling system air gets in it and must be bled out. Another thing can be problem with lower intake gasket leaking which could cause an over heating condition. There is a coolant bypass line that bolts on top of the water pump at the top is a bleeder screw you can warm up the vehicle and open then close until coolant flows out it. Some times the air pocket can be very stubborn to get out.

This will help.
Thanks.

2005 Chrysler 300 overheats

Chrysler Overheats

Unfortunately, it sounds like you may have a blown head gasket and you’ll likely need to take it in to get it repaired or at least do the test yourself.

About your vehicle.

The first thing that you want to do is check the cooling system for any exhaust gases. There is a tester for that, that you can gt from Autozone for about $20. It comes with instructions, but there is a blue fluid that is used in it, if the fluid turns yellow, that is exhaust gases.

OEM/Block Tester AUTOZONE
Part Number:
27145

Suppose If you get any exhaust gases in the cooling system, that will cause more pressure than desired and will allow the engine to burn coolant and/or heat the coolant up too high. Most times not filling the crankcase with coolant either.
If there are, then there would be an internal engine problem, like a head gasket or head.
Of course, you will want to make sure that the system is full, the coolant is circulating, and the cooling fan(s) are working as well as the pressure cap holding pressure.

Another issue can be water pump worn out or thermostat issue.But if its already replaced and new,Air in the cooling system. Needs to be burped by leaving cap off so it doesn't build up pressure, drive slowly around your neighborhood and take a supply of coolant w/you. Stop periodically and add coolant. When it finally stops accepting coolant fill the reservoir to the line, again drive slowly and recheck coolant level.

Also, is it possible you reversed the thermostat so it is blocking coolant rather than opening and letting coolant circulate?

You could have air in the system. There is a bleeder right near the thermostat housing. You may want to open that bleeder when it is cold, start it and try to get any residual air out of the system by working with that bleeder. The bubbling you see may just be due to the coolant boiling. The lower hose not getting warm at all indicates the thermostat is not opening and there is no circulation.

Some of the symptoms suggest a leaking head gasket. Look for bubbles in the overflow reservoir. If the coolant is cold, you know it's not overheating.

Do not remove the thermostat. In some cases, that will cause overheating because the coolant won't stay in the radiator long enough to cool. More commonly, the engine won't reach operating temperature. Parts won't fit right leading to rapid engine wear, and the fuel system will not go into "closed loop" and fuel mileage will go way down.

The pressure cap simply allows system temperature to go above 212 degrees without causing the water in the coolant to boil. It doesn't CAUSE the temperature to rise.

If Overheating is not repaired on time it can cause many other issue.Also vehicle no start problem can occur.

Engine overheating can cause severe internal damage. Did the engine turn over and not fire, or not turn over at all, as in the engine is locked.

There are a couple of possibilities, the most likely is that your overheating caused damage to the cylinder walls which is now causing low compression, resulting in a no start condition. It is also possible that some other component failed at the same time as the overheating, and that component is causing the no start, i.e., a bad crank sensor or something of that nature. If you let the engine overheat to the point that it began shutting off, then it is extremely likely that you have internal engine damage.

ALSO OVERHEATING CAN BE DUE TO fan not running as the rotating fan assembly is now severely out of balance. This in turn would probably cause the fan motor/bearings to fail, or blow a fuse. If they are damaged/blown then naturally your engine will start to overheat, unless you get air moving over the radiator element by driving it at moderate speed.

Sunday, May 12, 2013

Chrysler: Problems & Solutions

Troubleshooting Chrysler Car Problems

Chrysler Concorde LXi

TRANSMISSION FLUID CHANGE

PROBLEM:

Chryser 2004 Concorde Lxi started

to 'slip' last week, when starting off from a traffic light. Also, I noticed a slight down-shift while in cruse control on the freeway when going up a small hill

Transmission fluid changed 150,000 miles ago. Will I need to just have the fluid changed again? I presently have over 330,000 miles on the car.

SOLUTION:

Well the trans fluid should be replaced at 60 to 90K intervals, so you are WAY overdue for that service. So yes do a fluid and filter change. Now that may help, but if it does not, then you may need to get the transmission overhauled or replaced. 330,000 miles on a transmission is a lot, and the vehicle transmission is getting worn out. But do the service. You may be able to get another 50K out of her.

Chrysler Concorde

2001 Chrysler Concorde Fuel Filter

PROBLEM:

How many fuel filters 2001 Chrysler Concorde 2.7L has, where are they located and how often they should be changed?

SOLUTION:

2001 Chrysler Concorde vehicle does not have a fuel filter.Instead of fuel filter it has a strainer which is built into the pump and is not replaceable.If the strainer is causing the problem,then you will have to replace the complete pump assembly. That will solve the problem.

chrysler sebring

Add ATF Fluid

PROBLEM:

2008 Chrysler sebring convertible 2.4L trying to add some aft fluid to the top pump.

SOLUTION:

The pump motor IS under the spare tire area. Remove the spare tire cover and then the plastic trim panel at the rear of the trunk and you'll find the pump assembly near the trunk latch. The fill plug is on the pump assembly where you can fill it after the leak is repaired.

PLEASE NOTE: This system does not use ATF, you'll need ARAL VITAMOL ZH-M fluid to top it off after a repair or a leak.

Chrysler Town & Country LX

Steering Column Switch Stuck Up

PROBLEM:

06 Town & Country LX Accel/Resume switch on the steering is stuck down in the "on" position. This is causing an inability to engage the cruise control.

SOLUTION:

Basic possibility for Switch to Stuck:

If the switch is stuck it is either because of a mechanical failure of the switch or something stuck in it. I'm assuming you've already made sure nothing is stuck in it that you can view from outside.

For Example: If a sticky liquid like soda or fruit juice was spilled on the switch that would have ran inside and gummed it up and would cause it to stick. One thing you can try, whether there was a spill or not, is try to spray some electrical contact cleaner inside the switch and see if it will free up. The cleaner will hopefully dissolve anything that could be causing it to stick, yet it won't cause further problems like water would.

But If Its Not Helping:

Aside from cleaner and physically trying to pry the switch with something like a small screwdriver, if you are unable to get it to move again then the switch will need to be replaced.May be its worn out and acting like this.

Chrysler Pacifica

Shift Stuck In Park

PROBLEM:

2005 Chrysler Pacifica and the shift is stuck in the park position. It will not shift out of park.

SOLUTION:

There are few possibilities,that you will have to inspect and confirm first.

With key ON and your hand on the shifter, when you press the brake, can you feel or hear the interlock solenoid operating? Make sure a/c fan and radio is off to help hear the noise from the interlock solenoid.

(When pressing the brake with the key on can you hear or feel the interlock solenoid operating?).

Important Note: On some of these vehicles there is a "plug" covering a hole in the shifter bezel around the shift lever. The bezel also contains the path for the shifter to move.

Please check if on your chrysler if there is a plug . If you see the plug then you should be able to remove the plug, stick something through the hole to touch a release tab on the shifter, and see if the shifter will move out of park that way.

Mostly Possible Faults In Such Case:

Most likely you have a failure with the interlock solenoid, interlock cable, or an issue with the shifter itself. If your vehicle has the plug and interlock release tab you should be able to allow operation until you can get your issue resolved.

Things You Can Try:

You can attempt to disconnect the solenoid from the cable and see if it will allow operation. You will need to remove the trim panel below steering column that covers lower section of the dash. Then remove the steering column shrouds that are around the steering column behind the steering wheel. With this trim removed you can see the interlock cable attached to the back of the ignition switch.

If Disconnecting The Shift Cable Is Not Helping:

If you disconnect the wiring to the cable it should release the interlock solenoid and allow the shifter to be moved. If it still doesn't shift out of park there is a problem with the shifter assembly itself.

See Below The Diagram Showing

Interlock cable removed from back of ignition switch

Chrysler 300

2006 Chrysler 300 Replacement A/c

PROBLEM:

Required Cheap Compatible A/C Compressor for 2006 Chrysler 300.

SOLUTION:

There are many junk yards where you can get used and working A/c Compressor units.But it has no guaranty.

But in in your area there is no car junk yard near by or its not possible,then you can go for second hand car parts online.

There are many car parts site who deals with good used or compatible parts,.

Also you can get parts on ebay.com

You can get new compressor for cheap from ebay here is a link.

Click here

Here is link for buying used one if your trying to save money.

Click here

Chrysler Jeep Liberty/Cherokee

EGR Control Valve Problem

PROBLEM:

List of Problems Noticed On Chrysler Jeep:

Chrysler liberty/cherokee 2.8 automatic diesel.

It idles a little roughly,
When brake is applied the rev counter goes to 700 RPM and then back to the normal 750 RPM
It has stalling problem.
Yesterday it lost all power after a corner, no acceleration (Turned it off, on again and fine??).
It emits black smoke.
The catalytic converter is quite blocked.

SOLUTION:

First of all confirm if there is check engine light coming up ON dash.If yes scan for codes.The error codes will point out what is issue.

If there is no check engine light coming on, then all problem is indicating towards EGR flow control valve.

This valve may be sticking closed at times especially when coming to a stop. I have replaced this valve (which is like a throttle body) for issues like this.Also a faulty EGR will cause black smoke problems.

Go Through

AUTOMOTIVE EMISSIONS?

Inspect EGR Valve:

I recommend having the EGR flow control valve checked and or replaced. Sometimes just cleaning the soot from it will help. Like I mentioned, it looks like a throttle valve and i's the device that the intake hose from the intercooler connects to.

Other Possibility Can Be Vacuum Problem:

Yes inspect all of the vacuum lines from the little vacuum pump and the solenoids to the turbocharger waste gate actuator and repair any loose or cracked hoses.

Why its rare for vacuum issue because ,Usually though when there is a vacuum problem, a check engine light will come on and set a under boost code. But still dont ignore Vaccum Leak Issue.Also check all of the air intake hoses at the intercooler, turbo, and at the EGR flow control valve.

How to locate the vacuumleak?

Chrysler Town & Country

Engine Overheats

PROBLEM:

2004 Chrysler T&C, 3.3L

engine overheats after driving only few miles. Already replaced the radiator, the water pump, and the thermostat.

SOLUTION:

There are few possibilities for engine overheat while driving.

The first place I would start with this is with the cooling fans. Make sure they are coming on when the engine gets hot.You can also turn on the a/c and this should activate the fans.If the fans are not coming ON,then its issue with fan.For that fan motor and fan control relay has to be checked.

But If Fans Come ON and still it overheats

Then inspect does the check engine light come on or the engine run rough?

If its running rough,then inspect the spark plug and ignition cylinder.

Combustion Test:

Also it's possible that there is a small head gasket leak on any cylinder. The next step should be a combustion test kit to see if combustion gases are coming into the cooling system and causing the over heat.

Also make sure the system is bled properly,

The radiator is replaced but if the radiator lines are not bleed properly it can cause such the problem.

Head Gasket Leak:

If it is a small leak on the cylinder,the best repair will be to replace the head gasket. If the exhaust is getting into the coolant you can't really use any of the sealers to solve the problem.The gasket replacement is the only option.The Haynes manual for your vehicle should provide details in how to replace it for you. But please make sure do the leak check first however.

Chrysler Sebring

2007 Chrysler Sebring Thermostat

PROBLEM:

2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L engine THERMOSTAT location

SOLUTION:

On 2007 Chrysler Sebring 2.4L engine model there are two thermostats.

One is Primary thermostat and another is Secondary thermostat.

See the Chrysler Thermostat diagram shown below:

Diagrams with thermostat removal procedure

This details will help.

Sunday, February 10, 2013

Oil light beeps when the engine is warm

Oil Light Issues And Engine Getting Warm

The Details About the Problem:

1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager just bought with about 120K miles. The engine oil light beeps when the engine is warm.
The oil was recently replaced and it still happens.

Troubleshooting Details For The Problem

It's quite possible that there is actual low oil pressure due to an internal engine issue, but if you aren't hearing any abnormal engine noises that's probably not the case.

But as per your vehicle details, at our Auto Garage repair store one thing that often happens is a failed oil pressure sending unit. This is the sensor that is fed oil pressure and reports it to the powertrain control module. What often happens is the membrane inside the sensor will rupture and then it allows oil to leak through the sensor and into the electrical connector and it causes the oil light to come on at stops when hot, when oil pressure is naturally at it's lowest anyway.

To take care of these problem i suggest you to first unplug the oil sender and see if there is oil in the connector. If there is then it will need to be cleaned out and the sender replaced.

If you notice there is no leakage then a manual oil pressure gauge can be used to check actual oil pressure. If pressure is ok when the engine is hot, idling in gear then the sender will need to be replaced.

If pressure is found to actually be low then you could have an oil pump or bearing issue in the engine.

Getting these possibilities inspected will help.
Thanks.

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