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Showing posts with label stalling. Show all posts
Showing posts with label stalling. Show all posts

Friday, May 10, 2013

Engine Surges

Dodge Durango Surges and Stalls

Dodge Surges Erratically and Revs Up And Down

Engine Surges

An engine surge is often caused by a fuel system operations or drivetrain operation  failure. The fuel management system makes use of sensors that keep track of emission output and engine overall performance and are interacting with the main PCM (powertrain control module) managing fuel mixture, timing and emission management systems. When the engine is surging the PCM is "hunting" by altering the fuel mixture and timing. These corrections are made by the PCM in an isolating manner as the PCM tries to match its parameters. These parameters are not being satisfied due to a system breakdown.

PROBLEM:

06 durango,  stalled last night pulling out of drive way leaving for work, then was revving erratically engine light came on, only drove a 1/4 mile.  Put a scan tool on it, said low voltage, and OBD ii codes P0562 low voltage, P0876 trans fluid pressure switch P0700 transmission control system mil request.

Started it this morning battery was shot started super slow tested battery only had 12.1v,put new battery in, it started right up much faster, but will not go in revers or drive its like its in neutral, fluid is clean and full but it wont move at all, jacked up the car to see if wheels would spin in gear they do not, if i spin the tires by hand the speedometer reads the speed.

Main Problem:

While turning out of the driveway, after it stalled the engine was running erratically revving up and down then the check engine light came on.
There were no codes prior, they all popped on after it stalled. Its a 4.7 4x4 slt.


Troubleshooting:

First We Will Discuss OBD Error Codes:


What Exactly This OBD ii Error Codes Say Or Point Towards:


OBD II Code P0562 sets when battery voltage falls too low and was almost surely set by your bad battery. This one won't be related to the symptoms you are having and is just informational in most cases.

OBD II Code P0700 sets in the engine controller when there is a code stored in the trans controller. This one is just informational and tells you to read the trans codes.

OBD II Code P0876 is for the performance of the underdrive clutch pressure switch. The pressure switches close when there is fluid in the respective circuits. This code is going to be related to your symptoms.

Your Vehicles  Exact Problem?

Most likely its just seems a filter issue. What often happened on these is a bad cooler filter caused fluid drainback while sitting, which in turn will cause the sump filter to split or even pop out of the pump. When this happens then there is no line pressure because it sucks air rather than fluid and the trans can't engage. It will set pressure switch codes because there is no fluid pressure in the circuits when the solenoids apply clutches.


Failed Accumulator Cover
It's possible that the accumulator cover on the right side of the valve body has failed, but it's more likely a filter issue.


Inspect Sump Filter:
The first thing I would recommend is dropping the pan and inspecting the sump filter. I believe you will find the filter has either split or popped down out of the seal that holds it into the pump.


Delay Going Into reverse:
The delay going into reverse is due to bad cooler filter, this is caused by loss of prime and loss of prime is what splits or pops the sump filter out. So this all is related to each other.


Using Branded Parts,Instead Of Aftermarket Parts:

I'm still seeing problems with aftermarket filters causing this but the Mopar filters have been clean for many years. I wouldn't recommend aftermarket filters in this trans.Go for branded parts.


Its Not Electrical Part Failure:
The problem is definitely hydraulic rather than electrical. Even in the event of complete electrical failure the trans will still have third gear and reverse. An electrical issue can't cause the symptoms you are having.


Symptoms Of Faulty Filter:
Revving the engine that high is pulling some fluid through the filter. The filter is either split or partially popped down out of the seal; it's possible there could be a pump issue but it's not likely. Don't rev it up to try to drive it like that though, It can cause clutch damage.


2006 Dodge Durango Vehicle Transmission Details:

The governor pressure solenoid and transducer were used in the Torqueflite transmissions, you have a 545RFE.


Problem Due To Sump Filter Failure:

You have all the perfect symptoms of a sump filter issue. You have no line pressure at idle and the underdrive pressure switch isn't closing, and you had delayed engagement leading up to it which is a sure sign of a filter issue. Other possibilities for such problem can be  pump or clutch issue, but the probability of a filter issue is almost confirmed.


As Per Our Auto Garage Repair Experience:

We have seen lots of dodge with same issues.
It's definitely possible that it had a bad cooler filter on it from the factory. There were thousands of bad cooler filters out there and it was subject to a TSB and a recall. I've seen problems with ones that weren't involved in the recall, TSB or build date range also.

The fact that revving it allows it to engage tells us that most likely it's sucking air. It could be a pump or clutch issue but it's very likely sucking air.

If the sump filter popped out of the pump completely then it wouldn't engage at all, but if the filter has a split seam or it is sucking air around the seal then it will cause such problem as described in the question.

If replacing the filters doesn't help then the most likely cause is the pump itself if line pressure is low.



Reasons For Delayed Transmission Engagement:

First of all the engine shouldn't die from a bad battery alone as long as the charging system still working.
The engine died because the torque converter clutch was dragging from low line pressure.

Possibilities for this is failure of the pump or any trans part to fail suddenly.

Priming the Pump
Raising the RPM's will help to build prime and suck fluid from the pan, once fluid is flowing, although aerated, it may stay engaged.

Other than filter issue it's possible that a bad pump or sticking valve in the pump valve body could cause the delayed engagement. It's very unlikely that this pump would fail in a way to cause delayed engagement, and it's uncommon for the valve to stick and cause delayed engagement, but possible. Replacing the pump would be the repair either way.


Why The Vehicle Dies:
If the torque converter clutch drags at low speeds or when stopped then it will kill the engine. This is a common thing to happen on this trans when low on fluid or line pressure drops. This is most likely why it died.


Working Of Pressure Switch:
Pressure switches close when there is fluid applied to a clutch circuit. On 06 dodge durango vehicle pressure switch code setting for the underdrive clutch, meaning that there is no pressure there when the solenoid is turned on. Pressure switches are feedback to the trans controller rather than outputs that create action.


Reason For Loss Of Line Pressure:
The only things that can cause a loss of line pressure are low fluid, a sump filter issue, or the pump. If the problem is just in the underdrive clutch then that opens up other possibilities, but if the fluid isn't burnt then it's not likely a slipping clutch.


Working Of Underdrive Clutch:
The underdrive clutch is used for forward and reverse. It's used for reverse, first, second, second prime and third.


2006 Dodge Durango Has Solenoid Pack:
As previously mentioned above there is no governor transducer or solenoid on this trans. There is the solenoid pack on top the valve body that contains shift solenoids but the problem is hydraulic. An electrical issue couldn't cause the trans to not engage.

It's building prime once you get to the 2,000 RPM area. It's not likely to be the pump, most likely it's sucking air at the sump filter or it's seal.



This Details Will Help.
Thanks.


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Tuesday, July 10, 2012

50 hp Evinrude idle rough, bogging and stalling

Boat Idles Rough,bogs and stalls

Boat Stalls and bogs on Accelerate


The issues:

  • It Idles rough.
  • It stalls and bogs when accelerate.
  • Carbs issue.
  • Intake Adjustment Screw
  • Where is Idle adjust screw
  • How to Set Primer System
All mentioned issues stated above will be discussed below,to its best possible way.


1994 evinrude 50 Idles rough?

In this case the compression test needs to be done.On each cylinder you should get approx 115 to 12p Psi.If any of the cylinder shows less Psi,then there lies the problem.Reverse the faulty cylinder to working cylinder ans working cylinder to faulty cylinder and see if the problem reverse.If yes,then you know the cylinder is faulty and replace the cylinder to get the compression right.

If the compression is tested fine and correct on each cylinder then there is a issue with carbs.
The carbs are dirty.
To clean the carbs soak the carbs about half an hour then blew out the jets with choke cleaner,thenput it back together.


OK,WHY IT BOGS DOWN WHEN ACCELERATED?

When you accelerate the fuel flow runs to carbs.If carbs are serviced and not realigned properly the vehicle will bog down.
Also if the fuel line going to carb is not lined or fitted properly or the fuel line is getting pinched in between and causing low fuel to reach the carbs then it will bog down.


WHY TO SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS?

If the carbs were disassemble to service and not realigned properly to its exact position then carbs needs to be re-syncronized to its exact position.
Suppose if one carb throttle plate is open more than the other it will idle rough and cause bogging and stalling. Also these are bad about roller on carb splitting and falling off, the roller that throttle arm pushes against on carb should be the size of  2 pencil and if smaller, roller is missing. 


Where is intake adjust screw?

See the diagram of intake screw to loosen to adjust will be #28 as it is in cam #14

boat intake adjust

Which the Idle adjust screw on Evinrude?

The idle adjust screw is the one that attaches the arm to both carbs.
Before spinning the screw note down its actual position.So if idle gets wrong,you know its actual position,to bring it to normal idle state.


How to prime the system?


There is the little red arrow valve on the left side above the control arms toward the back of the engine.
That little red valve is the manual setting for the primer system. Turning it the other way has the same effect as pushing in on the key for the choke position. The small handle should be lined up with the solenoid. You will feel a small click when it goes back to the position it should be.

Some cases turning that valve will make the engine receive power.And all sorts out.
But if in case this works temporarily then you definitely have carbs issue.Re-synchronize the carbs.If you are not able to set it,then get it done at proper professionals.

Suppose if turning that red valve  momentarily fixed your problem, then after a little bit the engine floods out and fuel starts flowing out from front, then that tells you that the high speed jet is plugged or needle and seat are plugged up in one or both of the carbs. They should both be removed, cleaned and carb kits installed.

This details will help.
Thanks.


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Saturday, March 10, 2012

Rough idle,staling and Erratic shifting?

Multiple Problems on Mercury Cougar.
There are many possibilities that can cause this.

First of all inspect the EGR valve and head gasket.

A worn out EGR valve and cracked leaking Head Gasket can cause such problem.


You might have an air or a vacuum leak. This is very common! Open the hood and listen for a hissing sound when the engine is running.
Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor that is not reading airflow accurately, an EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow.
If it is hard to pinpoint take some brake cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum lines and see if the engine stumbles or if the idle is affected. Be extremely careful when doing this.

Also, your throttle body may be carboned up and need to be cleaned. This can cause all sorts of idle and hesitation problems. This is caused by the throttle plate not seating properly. The First thing to do is clean out the throttle body with some throttle plate and intake cleaner and a small brush. Another common cause would be the Idle Air Control motor. This is very common on older cars. The IAC motor gets lazy and cant keep up with the fast idle changes. Also when the IAC motor is out, its recommended to check the passages for carbon build up. If they are plugged they need to be cleaned out.


Check for the following conditions:-----
Poor connection at PCM or IAC motor. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage.
Restricted air intake system. Check for a possible collapsed air intake duct, restricted air filter element, or foreign objects blocking the air intake system.
Throttle body. Check for objects blocking the IAC passage or throttle bore, excessive deposits in the IAC passage and on the IAC pintle, and excessive deposits in the throttle bore and on the throttle plate. Check for a sticking throttle plate. Also inspect the IAC passage for deposits or objects which will not allow the IAC pintle to fully extend.
Vacuum leak. Check for a condition that causes a vacuum leak, such as disconnected or damaged hoses, leaks at EGR valve and EGR pipe to intake manifold, leaks at throttle body, faulty or incorrectly installed PCV valve, leaks at intake manifold brake booster hose disconnected, oil filler cap, oil level indicator loose or missing, etc..


Possible Causes 
Check for air leaks in the Air Induction system (e.g., in the intake manifold)
Check for air leaks in the PCV system and in its related hoses and/or valve
Idle air inlet passage or throttle bore is dirty or full of deposits
IAC valve has failed
MAF sensor is dirty, "skewed" or installed improperly
Throttle plate, throttle shaft or linkage is damaged or sticking
TP sensor is out-of-range or "skewed" high.

One more thing if the transmission uses engine vacuum, then chances are the shifting is related to the engine performance... Chances are you just have a vacuum leak and it is affecting everything else. Do not use the old EGR valve back in. Perform a smoke test to the intake for vacuum leaks or maybe use some carb cleaner to find a leak. Of course.. be very careful. Also, check engine vacuum with a gauge at idle.

Another possibility is that,you might just have a bad pickup inside the distributor, lazy IAC motor, mass air flow sensor or even engine coolant temp sensor. You could check ignition timing and even the distributor signal while the engine is running. Obviously, just be sure the fuel pressure and the tune up parts check out ok.

If any engine noise is heard while Accelerating then,you could replace the o2 sensor that might have been contaminated.. that would be a good start.

IF the engine is making noise on accelerating, it could be lots of things. IF you are confident that it is the timing chain, then yes.. you could replace it.
Again, just be sure that the ignition timing is ok as well as the tune up parts. I would stick with the oil that is recommend by the manufacture in your owners manual.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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