Technical Car Experts Answers everything you need: rough idle

Showing posts with label rough idle. Show all posts

Tuesday, July 10, 2012

50 hp Evinrude idle rough, bogging and stalling

Boat Idles Rough,bogs and stalls

Boat Stalls and bogs on Accelerate

The issues:

It Idles rough.
It stalls and bogs when accelerate.
Carbs issue.
Intake Adjustment Screw
Where is Idle adjust screw
How to Set Primer System

All mentioned issues stated above will be discussed below,to its best possible way.

1994 evinrude 50 Idles rough?

In this case the compression test needs to be done.On each cylinder you should get approx 115 to 12p Psi.If any of the cylinder shows less Psi,then there lies the problem.Reverse the faulty cylinder to working cylinder ans working cylinder to faulty cylinder and see if the problem reverse.If yes,then you know the cylinder is faulty and replace the cylinder to get the compression right.

If the compression is tested fine and correct on each cylinder then there is a issue with carbs.

The carbs are dirty.

To clean the carbs soak the carbs about half an hour then blew out the jets with choke cleaner,thenput it back together.

OK,WHY IT BOGS DOWN WHEN ACCELERATED?

When you accelerate the fuel flow runs to carbs.If carbs are serviced and not realigned properly the vehicle will bog down.

Also if the fuel line going to carb is not lined or fitted properly or the fuel line is getting pinched in between and causing low fuel to reach the carbs then it will bog down.

WHY TO SYNCHRONIZE THE CARBS?

If the carbs were disassemble to service and not realigned properly to its exact position then carbs needs to be re-syncronized to its exact position.

Suppose if one carb throttle plate is open more than the other it will idle rough and cause bogging and stalling. Also these are bad about roller on carb splitting and falling off, the roller that throttle arm pushes against on carb should be the size of 2 pencil and if smaller, roller is missing.

Where is intake adjust screw?

See the diagram of intake screw to loosen to adjust will be #28 as it is in cam #14

Which the Idle adjust screw on Evinrude?

The idle adjust screw is the one that attaches the arm to both carbs.

Before spinning the screw note down its actual position.So if idle gets wrong,you know its actual position,to bring it to normal idle state.

How to prime the system?

There is the little red arrow valve on the left side above the control arms toward the back of the engine.

That little red valve is the manual setting for the primer system. Turning it the other way has the same effect as pushing in on the key for the choke position. The small handle should be lined up with the solenoid. You will feel a small click when it goes back to the position it should be.

Some cases turning that valve will make the engine receive power.And all sorts out.

But if in case this works temporarily then you definitely have carbs issue.Re-synchronize the carbs.If you are not able to set it,then get it done at proper professionals.

Suppose if turning that red valve momentarily fixed your problem, then after a little bit the engine floods out and fuel starts flowing out from front, then that tells you that the high speed jet is plugged or needle and seat are plugged up in one or both of the carbs. They should both be removed, cleaned and carb kits installed.

This details will help.

Thanks.

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Friday, May 25, 2012

2006 Dodge Caravan: Runs Rough, rough idle, hesitation, jerkiness in engine and stalling out?

Its a multiple issue problem.
First thing to inspect is Engine warning light ON dash.
Is the check engine light coming up ON dash or not.
If yes,then scan for error codes.
There are two procedure to scan error codes.
One is by OBD code reader scan tool and other procedure is manually without scan tool.

Luckily on dodge, we can do this without a scan tool.

Within 5 seconds, turn the ignition key on-off-on-off-on, leaving it in the on position(position just before cranking). Now look at your odometer readout. the fault codes will show up as 4 digit numbers preceded by the letter P.
example - P0455.

Once the error codes are retrieved,the problem will be pointed out so further troubleshooting can be carried out.

But if there is no check engine light coming ON,then its rare that there is any error code stored in ECM.

In that case,inspect the idle is drive as well as in park reverse model.
If the idle issue is there in all modes then as per that

the first possibility to be checked is a vacuum leak, restricted vacuum hose, or intake gasket leak.

This is how the system performs:------
When you depress the brakes or have the brakes engaged while at a light, the power assist is used which gets its vacuum from the engine vacuum system.
A leak or restriction in one of the vacuum hose combined with brake applied will reduce engine vacuum enough for rough running, rough idle, hesitation, jerkiness in engine or stalling out.
With AC on, the problem is even more pronounced as there is more load on the engine, which makes correct vacuum more critical.

A bad vacuum hose or intake gasket leak will cause this.
In this case First, the engine vacuum has to be tested with a handheld vacuum gage and then the system is propane tested to find the source of the leak or restriction.

The only other things would be timing being slightly off by a tooth and causing a low idle condition.
But if that's the case then it would normally set a fault code for the cam sensor and would set the check engine light. Or a burnt valve, which if the vacuum checks out, then an engine compression test should be done to see which cylinder(s) are low on compression to know where the valve issue is. But again, normally this sets a fault code for engine misfire and turns on the check engine light.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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Saturday, March 10, 2012

Rough idle,staling and Erratic shifting?

Multiple Problems on Mercury Cougar.
There are many possibilities that can cause this.

First of all inspect the EGR valve and head gasket.

A worn out EGR valve and cracked leaking Head Gasket can cause such problem.

You might have an air or a vacuum leak. This is very common! Open the hood and listen for a hissing sound when the engine is running.
Unmetered air can enter the engine through a vacuum leak, a dirty airflow sensor that is not reading airflow accurately, an EGR valve is not closing and is leaking exhaust into the intake manifold, an EGR valve that is allowing too much flow.
If it is hard to pinpoint take some brake cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold and vacuum lines and see if the engine stumbles or if the idle is affected. Be extremely careful when doing this.

Also, your throttle body may be carboned up and need to be cleaned. This can cause all sorts of idle and hesitation problems. This is caused by the throttle plate not seating properly. The First thing to do is clean out the throttle body with some throttle plate and intake cleaner and a small brush. Another common cause would be the Idle Air Control motor. This is very common on older cars. The IAC motor gets lazy and cant keep up with the fast idle changes. Also when the IAC motor is out, its recommended to check the passages for carbon build up. If they are plugged they need to be cleaned out.

Check for the following conditions:-----
Poor connection at PCM or IAC motor. Inspect harness connectors for backed out terminals, improper mating, broken locks, improperly formed or damaged terminals, and poor terminal to wire connection.
Damaged harness. Inspect the wiring harness for damage.
Restricted air intake system. Check for a possible collapsed air intake duct, restricted air filter element, or foreign objects blocking the air intake system.
Throttle body. Check for objects blocking the IAC passage or throttle bore, excessive deposits in the IAC passage and on the IAC pintle, and excessive deposits in the throttle bore and on the throttle plate. Check for a sticking throttle plate. Also inspect the IAC passage for deposits or objects which will not allow the IAC pintle to fully extend.
Vacuum leak. Check for a condition that causes a vacuum leak, such as disconnected or damaged hoses, leaks at EGR valve and EGR pipe to intake manifold, leaks at throttle body, faulty or incorrectly installed PCV valve, leaks at intake manifold brake booster hose disconnected, oil filler cap, oil level indicator loose or missing, etc..

Possible Causes
Check for air leaks in the Air Induction system (e.g., in the intake manifold)
Check for air leaks in the PCV system and in its related hoses and/or valve
Idle air inlet passage or throttle bore is dirty or full of deposits
IAC valve has failed
MAF sensor is dirty, "skewed" or installed improperly
Throttle plate, throttle shaft or linkage is damaged or sticking
TP sensor is out-of-range or "skewed" high.

One more thing if the transmission uses engine vacuum, then chances are the shifting is related to the engine performance... Chances are you just have a vacuum leak and it is affecting everything else. Do not use the old EGR valve back in. Perform a smoke test to the intake for vacuum leaks or maybe use some carb cleaner to find a leak. Of course.. be very careful. Also, check engine vacuum with a gauge at idle.

Another possibility is that,you might just have a bad pickup inside the distributor, lazy IAC motor, mass air flow sensor or even engine coolant temp sensor. You could check ignition timing and even the distributor signal while the engine is running. Obviously, just be sure the fuel pressure and the tune up parts check out ok.

If any engine noise is heard while Accelerating then,you could replace the o2 sensor that might have been contaminated.. that would be a good start.

IF the engine is making noise on accelerating, it could be lots of things. IF you are confident that it is the timing chain, then yes.. you could replace it.
Again, just be sure that the ignition timing is ok as well as the tune up parts. I would stick with the oil that is recommend by the manufacture in your owners manual.

This details will help.
Thanks.

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Thursday, February 9, 2012

idle flair is noticed on car? Rough idle? car will not idle? Erratic idle speed?

This are common symptoms noticed due to faulty IAC valve.

The car needs tune up.

In most cases idle flair is caused by a dirty and sticking IAC (idle air control valve) and will car run too many miles (IF) then I would start with removing it from the throttle body and try cleaning it real well with some carb cleaner and while your in there also clean the throttle body bore and plate. I would also take a close look at the PCV supply line where it connects to the back of the upper intake and make sure the rubber elbow isnt rotted out and leaking.

After cleaning it remove the negative battery cable for about 10 minutes to reset the PCM.

This details will help.

Thanks.

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http://schematicsdiagram.blogspot.com/2011/12/erratic-idle-on-car.html

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Thursday, January 26, 2012

Bad miss at idle?

The problem noticed on ford vehicle.

First, you need to check for vacuum leaks.If you have a collapsed or broken vacuum hose, this can seriously interfere with the performance of the engine.

If this is not the case, then most likely you have an ignition coil or two bad on the vehicle. If the miss is bad enough to cause it to stall, then likely you're going to have a check engine, or service engine light on and codes stored in the computer.

You can get the computer scanned. If there are no codes then you'll need to have it connected to a ford scanner tool, which will be able to run tests to determine which cylinder(s) are affected.

Another possibility is the idle control valve. This won't necessarily cause any misfires, but it can cause it to die on you when in drive... it's possible you have multiple problems going on.

There's also the possibilities of low fuel pressure, low compression, a blown head gasket.. or a number of other things as well, which is another reason it is critical to get the codes scanned on this.

You can usually get it scanned for free at a retail parts store, such as Autozone or Advance.

Try this procedure mentioned below :----

Start the vehicle up and let it idle, then unplug the electrical connector for one of the coils, and if you notice a difference in idle, then likely that cylinder is good. Turn off the engine, plug it back in, start it up, and unplug the next one (do not plug the coil connector back in with the engine running, as the voltage spike can damage the coil). Once you find one that when unplugged doesn't change anything, then you've got a problem in that cylinder which could be a bad coil, bad coil boot, bad spark plug, low compression, or a bad fuel injector.

This will help.Thanks.

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