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Monday, April 29, 2013

1998 Dodge Dakota/ Obd Codes P300,P301,P303,P305,

Dodge OBD Codes P300,P301,P303,P305,


1998 Dodge Dakota Problem:

1998 dakota 3.9, get 4 codes p300,p301,p303,p305, with a loss of power no rough run, mostly shows up between 1/2 to full tank. 

AutoParts replaced are both heads checked out being cracked, pcm (dodge) spark plugs, cap,rotor, wires,coil, this code has been coming up since before any repair has started,after I replaced the heads  the codes came back, I also replaced the evap solenoid on the fire wall, any thoughts.
Vehicle is run 132,000 miles



Possibly Of Fuel Level:

If it truly is correlated to the fuel level being higher then it could be happening because liquid fuel is being pulled into the evaporative emissions system. If the rollover valve on the tank is allowing liquid fuel to be pulled into the canister and evap system it will cause the engine to run rich. 

Options To Be Tried:

You can try removing the purge solenoid's vacuum line off at the intake and capping the nipple and then see if the problem goes away. 

Another Possibility Can Be Fuel Injectors:
You could have an injector issue. At out Auto repair garage we see lots of these trucks with debris plugging the injector inlet screens. The fuel line comes into the rail on the same bank as all the misfire codes are setting on, these three cylinders are the ones you would expect to have problems with if there was debris coming in from the line.So check the injectors.

Reasons for Cylinders To Run Lean:

On the bottom of the intake is the plenum pan which seals to it with a paper gasket. These were troublesome and the gasket would suck out in sections between the bolt holes. If the gasket was sucked out it could cause some cylinders to run lean and it can also cause oil to be pulled out of the valley and be burned in the engine. If the plenum pan gasket wasn't replaced when the intake was off this could be part of your issue.
So get the plenum pan gasket inspected.

Getting this suggested possibilities checked will help
Thanks.

ALSO VIEW THIS RELATED:

For Car parts and diagrams:

CAR MANUAL GUIDE
                 
FOR FREE MANUALS AND GUIDES: ---
Car repair guide?


For all types of car repair help:



Car Backfires

For car repair How to guides:
www.howtorepairguide.com
OVERHEATING: Radiator Fan Not Working

Engine Cooling Fan not Working


"Radiator fan"  "Engine Fan"  "COOLING FAN WILL NOT TURN OFF"

LIFT GATE / TAIL GATE ISSUES

TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN


CAR ALARM ISSUES


Car starter removal, Starter motor testing, Starter repairs, Starter solenoid, Starter wiring,


DOOR PANEL REMOVAL, car door panel, door panel components, front door panel, rear door panel,


HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT, HEATER CORE REMOVAL, TROUBLESHOOT HEATER CORE, FLUSH HEATER CORE,

CAR POWER SEAT, ELECTRIC SEAT, POWER SEAT WILL NOT WORK, SEAT WILL NOT GO FORWARD,



For all types of---------

Timing belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?



                          

==========

For all types of --------

Drive belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?




stalling issues:
Engine stalls, car stalls while starting, vehicle stalls while starting, Engine stalls and dies, Car stalls and stops,


CRUISE CONTROL Not working, cruise control replacing, troubleshooting cruise control problems,


TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS:

NO REVERSE ON TRANSMISSION

GEAR SHIFT ISSUES

Transmission fluid leak, transmission gears slip,


TRANSMISSION REPLACING AND TROUBLESHOOTING, INSPECTING TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS, TRANSMISSION FAILURES, OD WARNING LIGHT,


TRANSMISSION FLUID FILLING, WHERE TO FILL TRANSMISSION FLUID, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID, NO TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK,


WINDSHIELD WIPERS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS NOT WORKING,WIPER MOTOR MAKING NOISE,NO WIPERS,WIPER FLUID LEAKS,WIPER FUSE AND RELAY,


COOLANT LEAK ISSUES, COOLANT LEAK PROBLEMS, COOLANT SENSOR, LOW COOLANT,


BRAKE LIGHTS NOT WORKING, REPAIRING BRAKE LIGHTS, NO BRAKE LIGHTS,


CHECK ENGINE LIGHT,ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHING,ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT,ECM ERROR CODES,


DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON, ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,WARNING LIGHTS STEADY ON DASH,RESET DASH BOARD WARNING INDICATOR,


KEYFOB PROGRAMMING, REPROGRAMMING CAR KEY, KEYLESS ENTRY RESET,ANTITHEFT WILL NOT LET CAR TO START, ANTI THEFT ISSUES, KEYFOB NOT WORKING, KEYLESS ENTRY QUIT WORKING,


IGNITION KEY WILL NOT RELEASE, IGNITION KEY STUCK UP, KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION, FAULTY IGNITION KEY LOCK CYLINDER, REPLACING IGNITION CYLINDER,


HEATER ISSUES:

HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



STEERING ISSUES:

POWER STEERING TROUBLESHOOTING, STEERING SQUEAKS, POWER STEERING FLUID LEAKS, FAULTY POWER STEERING PUMP, POWER STEERING NOT WORKING, POWER STEERING BELT,



VEHICLE STARTING ISSUE:

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:

Labels: Dodge dakota, eninge error codes, misfire codes, obd codes, obd ii, obd II codes, P300

Dodge Durango/ Jeep Cherokee/ Ring and Bearing

Using Ring And Bearing 


4.7 Engine FROM A "2001 DURANGO" THAT I AM BUILDING TO PUT IN AN "2002 GRAND CHEROKEE". I ODERED A RING AND BEARING SET ON EBAY. THE ROD BEARINGS DO NOT HAVE THE TAB ON THE END OF IT AND THE ONE I PULLED FROM MY BLOCK DOES. CAN I USE THE ONES WITHOUT THE TABS?



Yes,  the bearings without the notches can be used without any problem. 

How The Bearings Get Grip?
When the rod cap is installed and torqued the ends of the bearing shells press against each other and this is what actually holds the bearing in place in the rod and cap. 

The Bearing Notches History?

The notches on the bearings actually went away on the 4.7 a year or so after your 2001 engine was built, since then there haven't been any 4.7's built that did have them. 

Nothing To worry?

Even if the engine originally had the notches but the new bearings don't it's perfectly fine to use the bearings without them, these are the revised bearings and should be the only ones available for these engines now.

This will Help.
thanks

ALSO VIEW THIS RELATED:

For Car parts and diagrams:

CAR MANUAL GUIDE
                 
FOR FREE MANUALS AND GUIDES: ---
Car repair guide?


For all types of car repair help:



Car Backfires

For car repair How to guides:
www.howtorepairguide.com
OVERHEATING: Radiator Fan Not Working

Engine Cooling Fan not Working


"Radiator fan"  "Engine Fan"  "COOLING FAN WILL NOT TURN OFF"

LIFT GATE / TAIL GATE ISSUES

TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN


CAR ALARM ISSUES


Car starter removal, Starter motor testing, Starter repairs, Starter solenoid, Starter wiring,


DOOR PANEL REMOVAL, car door panel, door panel components, front door panel, rear door panel,


HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT, HEATER CORE REMOVAL, TROUBLESHOOT HEATER CORE, FLUSH HEATER CORE,

CAR POWER SEAT, ELECTRIC SEAT, POWER SEAT WILL NOT WORK, SEAT WILL NOT GO FORWARD,



For all types of---------

Timing belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?



                          

==========

For all types of --------

Drive belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?




stalling issues:
Engine stalls, car stalls while starting, vehicle stalls while starting, Engine stalls and dies, Car stalls and stops,


CRUISE CONTROL Not working, cruise control replacing, troubleshooting cruise control problems,


TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS:

NO REVERSE ON TRANSMISSION

GEAR SHIFT ISSUES

Transmission fluid leak, transmission gears slip,


TRANSMISSION REPLACING AND TROUBLESHOOTING, INSPECTING TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS, TRANSMISSION FAILURES, OD WARNING LIGHT,


TRANSMISSION FLUID FILLING, WHERE TO FILL TRANSMISSION FLUID, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID, NO TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK,


WINDSHIELD WIPERS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS NOT WORKING,WIPER MOTOR MAKING NOISE,NO WIPERS,WIPER FLUID LEAKS,WIPER FUSE AND RELAY,


COOLANT LEAK ISSUES, COOLANT LEAK PROBLEMS, COOLANT SENSOR, LOW COOLANT,


BRAKE LIGHTS NOT WORKING, REPAIRING BRAKE LIGHTS, NO BRAKE LIGHTS,


CHECK ENGINE LIGHT,ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHING,ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT,ECM ERROR CODES,


DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON, ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,WARNING LIGHTS STEADY ON DASH,RESET DASH BOARD WARNING INDICATOR,


KEYFOB PROGRAMMING, REPROGRAMMING CAR KEY, KEYLESS ENTRY RESET,ANTITHEFT WILL NOT LET CAR TO START, ANTI THEFT ISSUES, KEYFOB NOT WORKING, KEYLESS ENTRY QUIT WORKING,


IGNITION KEY WILL NOT RELEASE, IGNITION KEY STUCK UP, KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION, FAULTY IGNITION KEY LOCK CYLINDER, REPLACING IGNITION CYLINDER,


HEATER ISSUES:

HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



STEERING ISSUES:

POWER STEERING TROUBLESHOOTING, STEERING SQUEAKS, POWER STEERING FLUID LEAKS, FAULTY POWER STEERING PUMP, POWER STEERING NOT WORKING, POWER STEERING BELT,



VEHICLE STARTING ISSUE:

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:


Labels: bearing, dodge, jeep Cherokee, ring

Saturday, April 27, 2013

Dodge Dakota Broken Shifter Cable

Dodge brake/shifter interlock


Dodge Dakota Shifter cable repairs


Problems with the shifter on  '05 Dakota . The Gear shift lever will not move when I pull it down, but if I wiggle it around it usually does.
Now shifter got pulled too hard and broke the plastic connector that it attaches too. 

Will I have to replace the whole shift cable and if so how to replace Gear Shift Cable on Dodge Dakota.


As per what the problem is described:----

If the cable broke then that rules out the ignition/shifter interlock as a possible cause, the cause of it hanging up is either going to be brake/shifter interlock or in the trans. It's very unlikely to be in the trans, especially since wiggling it would allow you to shift.

Details Regarding Shift Cable Replacement:----

The shift cable is serviced as an assembly, so yes the cable will need to be replaced. It's not a big job and you'll probably be able to do it yourself with no problem. 

Reasons For Why Shift Cable Breaks:----

The cause of these cables breaking is usually a bad interlock solenoid. If you look at the cable you'll notice a two wire solenoid just under where it broke. This is the interlock solenoid that turns on and off to allow you to shift out of park When the brake is pressed. This solenoid is usually the case of these sticking in park and eventually the cable breaking if you pull hard enough. Being made of plastic doesn't help anything! Also the metal cable itself snap too though.

What Is Required To Replace Gear Shift Cable?

If you've already got the steering column shroud and knee blocker removed then you've got most of the dis-assembly done. You'll need to unplug the interlock solenoid and pop the remaining part of the cable off at the shifter. It just pops over a stud and will come off with a screwdriver.

You'll see a couple ears on the cable that spread to hold it to the bracket on the column. Squeezing the ears in will allow you to slide the cable down out of the bracket.

Follow it to the firewall where you'll find a rubber grommet, which is part of the cable assembly. Pull the grommet from the firewall and the cable will be loose.

Then go underneath to the trans. You'll find the same type of stud there where the cable attaches to the manual valve lever on the trans. Pop it off.

You'll also find the same type of attachment where the cable mounts to the bracket on the side of the trans. Squeeze the tabs and the cable will slide out of the bracket.

At that point it's loose and you can remove it through the inside of the truck.

When you put the replacement in fish it through the firewall and then down to the trans. Mount it at the trans and hook the cable up.

Then mount it and hook it up at the column. With the trans in park and shifter in park, slide the cable adjuster lock tab into place. The adjuster is up at the steering column end, it will be in the unlocked position on the new cable and very obvious.

You'll also need to remove a plastic lock for the interlock solenoid adjustment once the cable is in place and adjusted. The plastic piece again will be very obvious and resembles a plastic grenade pin, and should be white.

2002 Dodge Dakota. It occasionally won't shift out of park

The park shifter/cable has been replaced along with the brake switch.


INSPECT THE BRAKE LIGHTS:

First of all verify if the stop lamps work when the shifter wont move out of park, you may have a problem with a voltage drop to the shifter interlock solenoid.If the stop lamps work when the shifter wont come out of park, the problem is most likely with the shift interlock solenoid that keeps the shifter from moving unless you step on the brake pedal.

If the brake light functions properly when brake pedal is depressed then its issue with shift interlock switch ........
Depending on what trans you have there is a method to adjust the shift interlock cable(shifter cable) for proper release.The diagram  shows the electrical connector to test proper voltage when depressing the brake, should be battery voltage.

shift interlock switch wiring



For Brake Transmission Interlock Mechanism And Its Adjustment Procedure Click Here


Labels: adjustment, brake, dakota, dodge, mechanism, shift interlock, shifter cable

Brake Transmission Interlock Mechanism

Dodge Brake Shift Interlock Switch Mechanism Adjustment 


How To Adjust Brake Shift Interlock Assembly


dodge brake shift adjustment


45RFE - AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
ADJUSTMENTS - BRAKE TRANSMISSION SHIFT INTERLOCK
Correct cable adjustment is important to proper interlock operation. The gearshift cable must be correctly adjusted in order to shift out of PARK.

Please follow the
ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE 
  1. Remove the steering column trim as necessary for access to the brake transmission shift interlock.
  2. Shift the transmission into the PARK position
  1. Pull upward on both the BTSI lock tab and the gearshift cable lock tab (Fig. 68).
  2. Verify that the shift lever is in the PARK position.
  3. Verify positive engagement of the transmission park lock by attempting to rotate the propeller shaft. The shaft will not rotate when the park lock is engaged.
  4. Turn ignition switch to LOCK position. Be sure ignition key cylinder is in the LOCK position. Cable will not adjust correctly in any other position.
  5. Ensure that the cable is free to self-adjust by pushing cable rearward and releasing.
  6. Push the gearshift cable lock tab down until it snaps in place.
  7. Locate the BTSI alignment hole in the bottom of the BTSI mechanism between the BTSI lock tab and the BTSI connector.
  8. Move the BTSI assembly up or down on the gearshift cable until an appropriate size drill bit can be inserted into the alignment hole and through the assembly.
  9. Push the BTSI lock tab down until it snaps into place and remove the drill bit.
  10. Install any steering column trim previously removed.
BTSI FUNCTION CHECK 
  1. Verify removal of ignition key allowed in PARK position only.
  2. When the shift lever is in PARK, the ignition key cylinder should rotate freely from off to lock. When the shifter is in any other position, the ignition key should not rotate from off to lock.
  3. Shifting out of PARK should be possible when the ignition key cylinder is in the off position.
  4. Shifting out of PARK should not be possible while applying normal force, and ignition key cylinder is in the run or start positions, unless the foot brake pedal is depressed approximately 1/2 inch (12 mm) .
  5. Shifting out of PARK should not be possible when the ignition key cylinder is in the accessory or lock position.
  6. Shifting between any gear and NEUTRAL, or PARK, may be done without depressing foot brake with ignition switch in run or start positions.
  7. Engine starts must be possible with shifter lever in PARK or NEUTRAL positions only. Engine starts must not be possible in any position other than PARK or NEUTRAL.
  8. With shifter lever in the:
    • PARK position - Apply upward force on the shift arm and remove pressure. Engine starts must be possible.
    • PARK position - Apply downward force on the shift arm and remove pressure. Engine starts must be possible.
    • NEUTRAL position - Normal position. Engine starts must be possible.
    • NEUTRAL position - Engine running and brakes applied, apply upward force on the shift arm. Transmission shall not be able to shift from neutral to reverse.

This procedure will help.
Thanks.

For Dodge Front End Vibration Issues: Click here
Labels: brake, brake adjustment, interlock, mechanism, shift, switch

Monday, April 22, 2013

2002 jeep wrangler ignition cylinder with the ignition switch

Jeep Wrangler Ignition Switch Design

Help broken ignition switch on jeep wrangler 

For
REPLACEMENT IGNITION SWITCH
jeep ignition switch

This type of ignition switch assembly design was used on many Chrysler products where the ignition switch is on one side of the column and the lock cylinder is on the other. These have been troublesome and often end up breaking at the ignition switch end, which indicates is where yours is broken.

As  dealing with car parts and car repairs since long i am aware that originally the actuator pin was only serviced with the steering column, but within the last couple years it has become available through Chrysler on different vehicles.

As i can recollect that I just replaced one on a PT Cruiser a couple weeks ago.But Chrysler does not have a repair kit available for the Wrangler and are still servicing it as a complete steering column, which is a very bad option.

But one good thing is Dorman does supply a repair kit for your column luckily. It's about 1/3 of the price that it would cost if it was actually available through Chrysler, and it's about 40 times less than replacing the column.Its easily available through any parts store or many online sources. Most of my local parts stores are carrying these parts.

To replace this part the simple procedure is as follows:----

The lock cylinder and ignition switch are removed and then the lower housing is removed from the steering column. Once this suggested parts are removed you will notice some Torx screws on the bottom that hold the housing the column, these will come off and the housing is removed to expose the part you need to replace.

Assemble all parts correctly to make it work.
For Step By Step Procedure:

jeep wrangler ignition switch removal


This details will help.
Thanks.


Labels: ignition cylinder, ignition switch, jeep wrangler

2004 dodge caravan has front end vibration

Dodge Van Makes Vibrating Noise


Car Problem: 2004 dodge caravan. At stop light or while driving, engine on ,in drive, foot on brakes, van has a vibration from front area, like engine, trans area, passenger side. 
But if dodge van is shifted into neutral, noise goes away.It is only present when van is in gear, foot on brake. 


Car Expert Says:

Deals in car repairing for dodge,Cadillac,trucks,van,

First The Most Common Possibilities:

  • If it's coming from the right front then it's going to be from an engine driven accessory. 
  • With it happening in gear only or possibly worse in gear, 
This indicates that it's locked up overrunning clutch on the alternator.Please check and confirm that first.

As Per My Car Repair Experiences:


If it's coming from the right front then it's going to be from an engine driven accessory. With it happening in gear only or possibly worse in gear, I believe you have a locked up overrunning clutch on the alternator.

Its common problem on these vans and is something I have repaired several times. 
I will explain you the troubleshooting in detail:

Inside the alternator pulley is an overrunning clutch and these have shown problems with failing and locking up. When they do lock up then it will cause the belt to flutter at idle and in gear because of the load placed on the crankshaft.This is what you are noticing and that's what causing the vibration. 

How To start inspecting this Problem?

Here i will explain you about inspecting your car problem:
If you look at the belt and tensioner while the noise is occurring you should see them both fluttering along with the noise/vibration. You may have to look from the bottom with the splash shield off.

Any recommendation or suggestion before i look into the problem?

What I would highly recommend is checking the overrunning clutch for signs of failure. There is a plastic cap on the end of the pulley which can be clipped off. Pop the cap off and check for signs of rust dust. If any is found then the clutch has failed.

But What's the other possibility if Clutch seems OK?

If absolutely nothing can be seen then the belt can be taken off and then the alternator spun by hand. Spin it clockwise but don't let go of the pulley, just after spinning it clockwise then promptly reverse direction and try to spin it counterclockwise. You should be able to spin it counterclockwise and feel that the alternator's shaft is still turning clockwise. 
If you are unable to spin the pulley counterclockwise while the shaft is spinning clockwise then the clutch has locked up and the pulley will need to be changed.

This details will help.
Thanks.


Labels: dodge, front end, locked alternator, vibration

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Jeep Wrangler Has No spark

Troubleshoting No Spark Issue On Jeep wrangler



The Problem Description Of The Vehicle:

Having trouble with  93 Jeep Wrangler. I have fuel (I can hear the fuel pump charge the system when the key is turned on, don't know after that) but no spark. 

Also getting  power to the plug going into the coil for about one second when the key is first turned on, no power after that or when cranking. This is with the plug removed from the coil with a test light contacting inside of the plug. 

Tried Replacing:---
I have replaced the ECU, the coil, the battery, the wiring harness both under the dash and in the engine compartment, the crank position sensor, I think the O2 sensor (just restarting the project) and the water temp sensor.

Vehicle Details:
Make (manufacturer): Jeep
Model: Wrangler
Year: 1993
Engine (optional): 2.5L


Expert's Reply To This Problem:

As Per The Problem described:

Because the coil has power when the key is initially turned on its clear that the powertrain control module (PCM) is awake, it's commanding the ASD relay on, and the relay's output circuit is ok. 

Then What's The Actual Problem?

The ASD relay is initially turned on for about a second. When the PCM sees that the engine is turning and is in time then it will turn the relay back on when cranking. It looks at the crankshaft position sensor, which is mounted in the bellhousing. I see that you've replaced the crank sensor already.

Yes,Its Replaced,Then What's The Other Possibility?

Along with the crank sensor it looks at the cam sensor, which is also referred to as the pickup plate and is in the distributor under the rotor. The PCM looks at cam and crank signals together and determines whether the engine is in time, if it is then the ASD relay is turned on to power the coil and injectors.

Assuming your crank sensor and wiring are ok, possible problems at this point would be the cam sensor, the engine is out of time, or the distributor isn't turning for some reason. If the timing chain was broken it wouldn't turn, but you should also note the engine cranking faster than normal.

Ok,But What About Distributor?

If the distributor drive gear was damaged or the distributor shaft is broken then it won't turn either, but this isn't very common. 

Ok,Then What Is most Possible Problem In This Case?

It would take some electrical testing to know for sure, but if the PCM, wiring harness and crank sensor are new then the problem almost surely lies with the pickup plate. Pop the cap off and make sure the rotor does turn when the engine turns. If so then most likely the pickup plate is causing your issue.


Also I Got Error Codes?
12, 33 and 11.  What This Error Codes Indicate?

For Error Code 12 it sets when the battery has been disconnected and error code 33 sets for the a/c clutch relay, which would be a normal code if you don't have a/c. The code 11 is for lack of distributor reference signal, so that's more evidence that the pickup plate isn't working. 

Ok,So What You Suggest?

Start by popping the cap and see if the rotor does turn, if it does then the pickup plate is likely your issue. Some basic testing of the sensor can be done with a digital voltmeter and you may be able to prove the sensor bad with a few minutes of testing if you have a meter.

How Should I Use Voltmeter To Start Basic Testing?

  • Let's go to the crank sensor first. Turn the key on and unplug the sensor, ground the black meter lead and set it to the 200 ohm scale. Measure the resistance to ground on the black/light blue wire.

Then flip the meter over to the 20v DC scale and measure the voltage on the other two wires.

  • Do you get the same readings at the cam sensor connector as you did at the crank sensor?
To check these voltages you want to leave the black meter lead grounded and probe the terminals with the red meter lead. If this wasn't the way you tested at the crank sensor let's go back and check those voltages again.

Please Note: The crank and cam sensors are the same with one wire reading 3.37 and one reading 5.02 on each using the negative battery post as a ground.
That's the reference voltage wire which comes from the PCM. 

Now Let's disconnect the vehicle speed sensor. It will be on the back of the transfer case assuming you have a four wheel drive. It's a three wire sensor and it will have the same orange wire in it. Unplug that and see if the voltage on the orange wire jumps up.


Now Measure the voltage:
What is it at the cam and crank sensor now? See if it jumped up there too. If it did then the engine should start. This is the 8v reference circuit and it's usually right around 9v.

But If The orange wires at both the cam and crank sensors are both still 3.37. Or Not more then 5 volts.
Then There's a wiring problem somewhere on the circuit. The orange wire at all three sensors is the same wire coming from the same place at the PCM. It's ok down at the speed sensor but not at the others so somewhere we're losing about 6v in the harness. We'll need to dig deeper into the harness to troubleshoot the problem.

This Details Will Help.
Thanks.

ALSO VIEW THIS RELATED:

For Car parts and diagrams:

CAR MANUAL GUIDE
                 
FOR FREE MANUALS AND GUIDES: ---
Car repair guide?


For all types of car repair help:



Car Backfires

For car repair How to guides:
www.howtorepairguide.com
OVERHEATING: Radiator Fan Not Working

Engine Cooling Fan not Working


"Radiator fan"  "Engine Fan"  "COOLING FAN WILL NOT TURN OFF"

LIFT GATE / TAIL GATE ISSUES

TRUNK WILL NOT OPEN


CAR ALARM ISSUES


Car starter removal, Starter motor testing, Starter repairs, Starter solenoid, Starter wiring,


DOOR PANEL REMOVAL, car door panel, door panel components, front door panel, rear door panel,


HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT, HEATER CORE REMOVAL, TROUBLESHOOT HEATER CORE, FLUSH HEATER CORE,

CAR POWER SEAT, ELECTRIC SEAT, POWER SEAT WILL NOT WORK, SEAT WILL NOT GO FORWARD,



For all types of---------

Timing belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?



                          

==========

For all types of --------

Drive belt routing diagrams for cars and trucks?




stalling issues:
Engine stalls, car stalls while starting, vehicle stalls while starting, Engine stalls and dies, Car stalls and stops,


CRUISE CONTROL Not working, cruise control replacing, troubleshooting cruise control problems,


TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS:

NO REVERSE ON TRANSMISSION

GEAR SHIFT ISSUES

Transmission fluid leak, transmission gears slip,


TRANSMISSION REPLACING AND TROUBLESHOOTING, INSPECTING TRANSMISSION COMPONENTS, TRANSMISSION FAILURES, OD WARNING LIGHT,


TRANSMISSION FLUID FILLING, WHERE TO FILL TRANSMISSION FLUID, AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID, NO TRANSMISSION DIPSTICK,


WINDSHIELD WIPERS, WINDSHIELD WIPERS NOT WORKING,WIPER MOTOR MAKING NOISE,NO WIPERS,WIPER FLUID LEAKS,WIPER FUSE AND RELAY,


COOLANT LEAK ISSUES, COOLANT LEAK PROBLEMS, COOLANT SENSOR, LOW COOLANT,


BRAKE LIGHTS NOT WORKING, REPAIRING BRAKE LIGHTS, NO BRAKE LIGHTS,


CHECK ENGINE LIGHT,ENGINE WARNING LIGHT FLASHING,ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT,ECM ERROR CODES,


DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHTS ARE ON, ENGINE LIGHT ON DASH,WARNING LIGHTS STEADY ON DASH,RESET DASH BOARD WARNING INDICATOR,


KEYFOB PROGRAMMING, REPROGRAMMING CAR KEY, KEYLESS ENTRY RESET,ANTITHEFT WILL NOT LET CAR TO START, ANTI THEFT ISSUES, KEYFOB NOT WORKING, KEYLESS ENTRY QUIT WORKING,


IGNITION KEY WILL NOT RELEASE, IGNITION KEY STUCK UP, KEY WILL NOT COME OUT OF IGNITION, FAULTY IGNITION KEY LOCK CYLINDER, REPLACING IGNITION CYLINDER,


HEATER ISSUES:

HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



HEATER NOT BLOWING COLD,NO HOT AIR FROM HEATER,A/C BLOWS HOT AIR,A/C NOT BLOWING COLD, COLD AIR FROM HEATER,BLEND DOOR ACUTATOR CLOSED,HVAC UNIT NOT OPERATING,



STEERING ISSUES:

POWER STEERING TROUBLESHOOTING, STEERING SQUEAKS, POWER STEERING FLUID LEAKS, FAULTY POWER STEERING PUMP, POWER STEERING NOT WORKING, POWER STEERING BELT,



VEHICLE STARTING ISSUE:

CAR NO START: ENGINE NOT TURNING OVER:
Labels: faulty distributor, no spark, obd code, PCM, pickup plate
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