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Showing posts with label no heat. Show all posts
Showing posts with label no heat. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 3, 2013

Chrysler Town & Country Heater Not Heating Properly

NO heat mode door wont change


2005 Town & Country  heater that isn't heating correctly. The engine temp gauge comes normally, but the air in the cabin stays cold, until I get lucky doing one of several things: 

Tried sliding the temp controls back and forth.
Tried turning the fan control switch off and on, pausing about 5 secs on off, 
Tried going to defroster for 10 sec, then back to vent, or I turn the van off and restart, or I step on the gas somewhat hard while driving..

Any One of those options will usually get hot air blowing and the heater working normally, and it will work correctly for the remainder of the time the engine is warm, but when the van is shut off, and restarted say the next day, it does the same thing. 


Vehicle Details:

Make: Chrysler
Model: Town & Country Touring
Year: 2005
Engine: 3.8L


Expert's Reply On This Problem:

First Understand How The Hot And Cold Air Gets In To The Vehicle:

The Bled door and blend door actuator are the main parts:
The blend door controls the mixture of hot or cold air and is located in the airbox tucked up against the firewall on the floor just under the radio. 
The blend door is moved by an actuator (servo) motor and moves according to the position of the manual heat control position. 
You can check for blend door actuator operation by turning the ignition on, engine off and have everything else off that makes noise such as the blower fan. 

How To Check The Operation Of Blower Fan?

Get down low near the floor, turn the heat control dial in either direction and listen for the motor to actuate. It should move for a few seconds depending on how much of a temperature change you are trying to accomplish. You can do the same thing for the actuator motor for the vent control. 

What If There Is No Motor Noise Heard?

If the blend door doesn't make any noise then it could be bad wiring (unlikely) or the motor itself went bad. If one motor works and the other doesn't then consider replacing the bad motor alone. It isn't too difficult. Both motors are on the driver's side of the airbox above and right of the gas pedal. 

Ok, And What If Motor Is Working Properly?

If the motor seems to be working then either the heater core is clogged or the the blend door is probably broken.

Ok,But How To Confirm If Heater Core Is Working Or Faulty?

You can check the heater core by feeling the input and output coolant hoses on the firewall in the engine compartment. Both should be hot. If one is cool then the core is probably clogged. If it seems OK then the blend door is the probable culprit. 

How Does Identify blend door?

The door is about the size and shape of a long envelope with a shaft on one end that connects to the actuator motor. The shaft seems to be the weak point and it snaps. When it does, the door falls into a default position, which is full cold and it blocks all warm air from the heater. The problem is you cannot get to it or even see it, it is buried inside the airbox.


But as You Mentioned That You Can Heat After Trying Various Things,This States That May Be Heater Core Or Blend Door Actuator Is Not The Issue.

On That Basis The Further Troubleshooting Details Are As Follows:


Intermittent heat problems like yours are usually caused by low coolant level on these vans. So first get the coolant level checked and inspected.
But if the engine temperature seems perfectly normal and coolant level is fine.

Then it actually sounds like there is air in the cooling system causing the lack of heat if the problem happens on both sides at the same time. Running the engine longer and having it at higher RPM's will force the air out of the heater core and coolant in, and then you have heat until it cools down again.


Ok,So From Where To Start?

I would start with bleeding the cooling system. Here's the basic procedure to bleed the cooling system.

With the radiator cap off make sure the coolant level is near the top. Start and run the engine until it's at full operating temperature. Raise the RPM's to about 2,000 and hold it there for 10 seconds or so, do this periodically while it's warming up and especially after the thermostat is open and staying open. Once the upper radiator hose is too hot to hold on to, no air is seen coming from the radiator, then you can do a final top off and cap it. At that point see if you have heat, if you do then it was very likely just trapped air in the heater core.


Ok,And What If There Is No Air In The System?

If there is no air in the system and you are losing heat on both sides at the same time then it sounds like the control head has failed. There is a blend door and actuator for each side of the van and it's extremely unlikely that both of the actuators and doors would act up at the same time and then start working again at the same time.

This Details Will Help.
Thanks.,

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Monday, February 18, 2013

A/C - Driver side cold, Passenger side hot?

Air conditioning blows hot on passenger side but cold on driver's side


2009 Grand Cherokee A/c  driver side gets cold but the passenger side gets warm.



Take apart dash and look for blend door at A/C.

See if everything functioning correctly or not. If everything looks to be turning correctly then you can hopefully rule out the control head and actuators.

Set the temp and see if you can control temperature on heat. If you aren't able to control temperature on the right side when it's on heat then you know you have a right blend door problem, in that case the heater box will have to come out and be disassembled.

But if you can control temperature on heat but the a/c is warm on the right side it's likely a charge issue. The refrigerant charge you can understand.

If you read working of heater Box,it will help you to know the problem much better:

With the way airflow is set up in modern Chrysler heater boxes one side of the vehicle gets air from one side of the evaporator and the other side of the vehicle from the opposite side. 
When a/c charge becomes low it will be able to cool one side of the evaporator but not the other so it creates a temperature difference between left and right.
 If you are able to control heat ok then the first thing that will need to be done is evacuate and properly recharge that a/c and it should take care of the problem.But if heat is not getting controlled then definitely heater box has to be inspected.



Many a times the problem occurs even after the A/C system is recharged.
On that cases its the problem related to internal refrigerant leak in the evaporator or a broken blend door. 

Why i am mentioning about evaporator leak,because at our auto garage we have seen this.The evaporator is made up of a series of plates that are soldered together to make single cores, the evaporator is made up of a stack of these cores. Once in a while they will develop an internal leak and one side of the evaporator will cool and the other won't. This is uncommon but possible.

The other possible cause would be a broken blend door. If you're sure the charge is ok at this point the heater box will need to be removed and disassembled to inspect the blend door.


OK,IF ITS HEATER BOX ISSUE,THEN 
HOW TO REMOVE JEEP CHEROKEE HEATER BOX?

Here's the procedure,

First you will have to remove the entire instrument panel as an assembly. Please note that the bracing and everything comes with it, just removing the trim panels won't be enough. The steering column has to be removed or dropped, the center console removed, and then the entire instrument panel assembly. Once it is done then only the the heater box on the firewall  can be removed.


Brace is not very difficult to remove but it looks so,.The brace will not come out as it has two bolts and a screw holding it there and then it has a huge rivet looking pin,that has to be pushed out.

See the image shown below:----
Rivet


The bolts above and below that are the ones that hold it to the pillar, they're either 13 or 15mm. Those are what needs to be removed.Once the bolts are out,the brace is loose to be easily removed.

You will also require basic tools and much is confidence to do this task.

Hope all goes well.

Thanks.


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Saturday, February 9, 2013

2005 Chrysler 300C: Has No Heat & Also has No start Problem

Troubleshooting No Heat And No Start Problem

Its 2005 Chrysler 300C, :
The problem Description:
While I was driving I heard a noise like a hose had broken followed by the noise and after that  heater  no longer worked I then heard a sound like something was dragging under my car. Then I noticed that there was a lightening bolt symbol and a slippery or loss of traction symbol.

Now my car will not start.
Please Help?


Follow Troubleshooting:-----


From your description it sounds like you may have lost a radiator or heater hose, allowed the coolant to escape and kept driving while it severely overheated. And that is what you noticed.

The first thing you'll need to do is check the coolant level and look around the engine compartment for sprayed coolant and the damaged hose or cooling system component. 

Also let me know  what happens when you try to start the engine, does it not crank? See if it cranks now that it has cooled off overnight. When severely overheated and driven that way catastrophic engine damage can be done.


Clients Reply:

The engine just make whine noise and will not start.
And as per your details No coolant was found the reservoir was completely empty and mechanic says that most likely the engine will not start again.

What are potential options for replacement? Can the engine for this model be replaced with that of a lower model or does it have to be the same 5.7L hemi?

EXPERT'S REPLY:


As per my experience there are a few options for replacement.

Most expensive would be a Mopar or aftermarket re-manufactured engine.
The cost will be very high for this brands, but benefit is you would have the longest warranty and would last the longest. There will be quite a few options available at different parts stores and suppliers, warranty and prices will vary.

Other option is try to find a used engine from a salvage yard. This will be the cheapest way to fix it but likely wouldn't last as long as a re-manufactured engine, unless you were able to find a low mileage unit. Replacing it with a used engine would be the cheapest route.

This car also came with either the 2.7 or 3.5 engine models, but swapping one of those in would be more expensive in the long run. You'd need all engine accessories, exhaust, complete wiring harness, fuel and evaporation emissions lines, the transmission and powertrain control module from a six cylinder car. If you decided to do this it would be cheapest to try to find a wrecked six cylinder car to take all the components from.

Also Note one more thing the Replacement unit comes with two types, short blocks and long blocks

A short block is the block, crank, pistons and cam. A long block is the same but comes with the cylinder heads and valvetrain. If yours has been overheated then you're going to need a long block as the heads won't be reusable.

I suggest get the help of professional mechanic who knows these job very well.Do it yourself will not be that easy to complete these task properly.

Hope all goes well.






Sunday, January 27, 2013

Dodge Ram has No Warm Air

NO WARM AIR FROM CABIN VENTS


Thermostat tested good and coolant level is fine.Also there is no engine overheat issue noticed while driving.


It Does get slightly warmer turning it from full cold to full hot.


At our Auto repair garage we have seen lots of such similar and relative cases,when AC and heater both functions but not completely and correctly.

Your case is also one of them.

In your case also the heat is there but not completely warm its getting.

So suppose its ineffective to control temperature at all then i believe the problem is related to  blend door but as per what you described your problem I really don't think that is certainly in your case. Because when turning from cold to hot you get bit of warmness.

The blend door is the door in the heater box that controls temperature. It is driven with an electronic actuator controlled by the control head on the dash.
In your case you receive bit of heat,these confirms that blend door is functioning.So this tells us that the door, control head and actuator are most likely ok.


Also in your description you mentioned that coolant level is fine.
I exactly dont how you checked the coolant level.But if you are confident that its full then on some cases its leaking coolant,also get the coolant leak issue confirmed by getting the coolant line pressure test done.
On some cases we see that problem results due to air in heater core causing these.

If air is caught in the heater core it leads to lack of heat problem. Air can be stuck either from a leak resulting in low coolant level or lack of bleeding the system after a cooling system repair.

But if coolant level is tested full and you don't hear any gurgling sounds from the dash on acceleration then you can rule out air in the heater core.

On such types of problem mostly the possible reason is low coolant or faulty thermostat or issue with blend door or faulty blend door actuator.But if all these most common possibilities if checked ok,then

Most probably on your case its a restricted heater core. Over time dirt,dust and corrosion can develop on the specific cores within where the coolant passes and it puts a stop to coolant from flowing appropriately.
In the same way if there isn't sufficient hot coolant flowing by the core then it can't properly heat the air. As your vehicle model it uses modern heater core brands. And as per modern day heater core design you cannot always depend on being able to feel a temperature variation between the hoses anymore.

To correct these problem i suggest flushing the heater core and that should take care of your problem.
Inspect and clean the heater hoses correctly.There will be two hoses.
The heater hoses located at the firewall and follow them forward. One will go to a tube at the water pump, remove it at that joint. The other hose goes along the right valve cover and will have a coupler inline, remove it there.Before removing the hoses understand its positioning.Refit it same way as it was fitted before.

For flushing,servicing and cleaning the heater core follow the procedure:---



Run water through the heater core using a garden hose, watching the water flowing out.At beginning the dirty water will flow out,let it flow. Once it starts to flow clear water then stop and flow water in the opposite direction. When it starts to run clear again switch back to the other direction. Flush till you get any dirty dustiness in the water.

Then re-install the hoses, bleed the cooling system and you should find that your heat is back.Please make sure no air gets trapped or remain in the heater core.Bleed the cooling system line completely.


These details will help.
Thanks.


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Monday, February 20, 2012

No heat,blower blows only cold?

Very common issue,noticed by many car models.

The heat is generated by a radiator located in your dash using engine coolant. You don't have heat because the valve that is controlling the coolant flow is closed - either it or the commands that is controlling it are broken - Inspect both of them to confirm.

For more help,i will say.......
The valve is located on the tube that brings the coolant from the engine - depending on your engine model it's located very close to the firewall (the big piece of steel that separates from the engine) either in the engine bay or behind the protection grill.
The commands elements - when you turn the heat button on the dash, it is pulling on a cable which is pulling on a lever attached to the shaft of the valve. So most likely part that has failed here is the button (made from plastic) , followed by the lever and finally the cable (corrosion) .
This is how its routed and it works.

This details will help.
Thanks.

See below more help solutions :----



Saturday, November 12, 2011

Lincoln continental overheating and also has no heat problem.

Ok,so heater blowing cold air and with that overheating.
The problem with your Continental is likely a leaking headgasket.Given that your car is also overheating, it is a common concern that the headgaskets leak.There is probably an internal leak where air is getting into the cooling system which will cause the lack of heat problem that you've described.
There are testers available for checking for combustion gases getting into the cooling system.They are commonly refered to as block testers.
The repair for this problem will be headgasket replacement.
Basically to replace head gasket it takes roughly 4-5 hours to do both headgaskets.Make sure that you change the oil after replacement ,if there has been coolant contamination,you may have to change the oil more than once before driving.
Get original or branded parts,local non branded cheap auto parts don't last long and same problem occurs in few days or months.Branded Auto parts are bit costly,but they last long and give good results.
This will help.
Thanks.

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For car AC related and Heater related solutions. You can refer the options mentioned below:---

Car AC Blows Warm Air ?


How to test AUTO AC pressure?


AUTO Air Conditioning Troubleshooting?



AUTO A/C COOLING PROBLEM?


Fixing refrigerant leak?


How to locate Car AC Refrigerant leak?


CAR AC INTERMITTENT COOLING?


What causes INTERMITTENT COOLING on Car AC system?


Car AC making Noise?


BAD ODOR ON CAR AIR CONDITIONER?



How to Recharge Car's Air Conditioner

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/10/how-to-recharge-cars-air-conditioner.html

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