Driver information center is not working

Driver information center not working has few possibilities.

It can be the issue with faulty blown out fuses.The fuses that controls the Driver information center module.

Or it can be the issue with module itself.

On some cases its faulty display tube,which has to be replaced.

But getting display tube is difficult.Some famous car junk yards can provide you,if available.But if its not there,then complete module has to be replaced and that costs approx $500.

For chevy silverado car models its DIC/ipc fuse. Check that fuse,whether is short/blown or its good.

On Oldsmobile car models


You have to first check the fuse in fuse box.If fuse checked good,then remove the DIC and check for power WITH A METER on Terminal 14 to ground ,it should be battery voltage [B+].
And same way Terminal 7 to ground should be B+.
Now set meter on OHMS reading Terminal 8 to ground UNPLUGGED on ohms should be 0-3 ohms.
If all these check OK, the DIC is bad.

Nakamichi 6 disc in dash changer Stops at E-Mecha

Have a error on a nakamichi car stereo, e-mecha comes up when want to change a cd or eject a cd

Its not a problem.
In this case,you have to turn off the unit for few seconds then turn ON.

These is the basic working procedure of these cd-changer units.


Basic features of this unit:----
Digital SPDIF input. Two AUX inputs. CD changer control. Green lighting. 6 disc in dash changer.


To understand this units working procedure,go through this details:----

When ever this  cd player is turned on, the read head goes through a start-up routine by moving to a "HOME" position.If the head is settled somewhere else,while turned off,then when you turn the unit ON,the head comes first to its HOME position first.
This is common routine and these will be noticed  every time a CD is inserted or changed.
Actually when CD is inserted on changed,there is a small switch which gets pushed and this procedure gets activated.
The routine continues when a small switch is pushed by the motor assembly, indicating the motor has reached home.

But if you get E-Mecha displayed on your display panel.
Then this is indication ,that either switch is not getting pushed properly or the motor is not spinning right.

When the unit is new,the switch is very smooth,by time this switch gets dirty and gets bit stiff and requires more pressure to get pushed and operate.In that case the switch needs to be lubricated.This switch requires more force than it should typically to reach home. It requires replacement or lubrication or loosening, something to make it activate more easily.

The switch is not very powerful to get activated.On some cases its seen,that switch actually dont get properly pushed or activated,but it is SO CLOSE to activating every time,that  a small bump to the radio or dash housing will jar the read head, activating the switch. Radio will continue to operate normally.So some repair techs,tap on side of radio unit to see if the switch get jerk and radio gets started.On such cases the switch needs to be lubricated and refitted.


WHY EXACTLY E-MECHA IS DISPLAYED?

If the head is allowed to spin without hitting the switch for a few seconds, home is never reached and E-MECHA is displayed.
So the switch should be pushed and motor should spin and head should reach home position.
 Turning the radio off and back on or pressing reset clears the E-MECHA and the radio will again attempt to reach home.


These details will help.
Thanks.

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Fuel Running Lean

Engine Running Lean and Also check engine light is ON.

The Vehicle is 1999 Ford Explorer

Common problem noticed on fords and other vehicles too.

At our repair garage many customer visits with same types of issues like ...........

• Lean running engine runs hotter
• Running Lean
• Fuel Bank 1 and 2 running lean
• Fuel running rich lean
• Car running lean fuel
• Fuel injection running too lean

And many such other similar types of problems are noticed by customers.

In most of such cases the check engine light comes ON.

In that case the vehicle needs to be scanned for error codes which are stored in its engine control module.

On most of cases the error codes retrieved are 

C1230,C1102, P0443,P0171,P0174.

As for 1999 ford explorer vehicle. These problem is very common.On 1999 Ford Explorer it had known issues with leaking upper intake gasket and due to this lean codes get set. 

For this problem,as per our garage repair experience I would suggest you to start with installing a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail service port and make sure you have 32 to 45 PSI and if so, remove and replace the upper intake along with the mounting bolts and this should resolve the problem you having.If the fuel pressure is less then its required PSI,then i suggest you to get the fuel pump and fuel filter inspected and replaced.

This is what the error codes tell and explains.

The codes P0171 and P0174 are lean codes and are mostly set because the upper intake gasket is leaking and needs to be replaced.

Also because many other ford explorer 4.0 users have noticed same issue like yours and had complained about this ,so for these reason Ford has released a redesigned gasket set to correct this concern. 

AND FOR OTHER COMMON ERROR CODES NOTICED:---

• The OBD code P0443 is usually a canister purge control issue but also low vacuum can effect this as well so the better place to start is correcting the intake leak and clear all code and see if any reset.

• The codes C1230 and C1102 are in most cases set due to a bad rear speed sensor or the connection to it. The speed sensor is located in the top of the rear differential housing for ford explorer vehicle.

On most of such cases the OBD codes retrieved are P0171 and OBD code P0174.

These details will help.

Thanks.

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Whining noise on deceleration

The Vehicle makes whining noise during deceleration and shudder noise is heard with whining.

The vehicle is 2002 Ford Explorer with 130K miles.

At our garage we notice same types problems like.............

• Diff whine during deceleration,
• Whine during deceleration,
• Differential noise,
• Whining most loudly in 4th and 5th gears on deceleration,
• Noisy rear end in deceleration,
• Tranny whine when deceleration in first gear,
• Deceleration noise in gear,

In such cases first get checked the transmission fluid level,if its low refill/change it.If its getting leaked,then get the leak issue cleared.

Also without forget get the T-case checked.If its not sealed properly,then get the transfer case resealed.

But if transmission fluid and transfer case basics are checked ok,then its the issue with rear differential mentioned as follows :---

The type of noise described is caused by the excessive lash in the ring and pinion and very common on the Explorer. Also as the vehicle is having  130,000 miles on it. So with so many miles,this issues and problems are very common. The cost for these repair done will be approx $1000.These price is consistent with removing the rear diff and replacing the pinion bearing along with the carrier bearing and let the repair garage  set the lash up correctly,without last being set properly,the issue of whine noise and shudder will not solve. . While they have it out,make sure they also replace both axle bearing as well.

These details will help.

Thanks.

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Faulty coolant level sensor

Faulty coolant level sensor on Pontiac Grand Prix 

Problems Noticed Will Be:----

• The on dash coolant light blinks ON & Off.

You Can Try:---

Remove the coolant sensor and clean it with electronic component cleaner,then refit the sensor and see.
In most cases this helps.

But if that is not helping then,may be its faulty coolant level sensor.


There is a testing procedure to Test the Sensor:----

These procedure helps to confirm if sensor is faulty or not.

• First of all you have to remove the low coolant level sensor.
• Now with the ignition key on but the the engine off and the coolant level sensor disconnected from the vehicle wiring harness, observe the low coolant light:

               A)  Light is on - Chassis wiring or instrument cluster concern. Follow the appropriate diagnostic information in SI.

               B)  Light is out - Proceed to Next Step of Testing Procedure.

See the diagram shown below for more help:------

TESTING PROCEDURE:----

• Now With the key off, you have to connect the coolant level sensor into the vehicle's wiring harness. 
• The connection should be as follows.The above diagram will be helpful.As per the diagram connect a ground wire (1) to the battery negative terminal. Using a sharp probe (3) attached to the ground wire, ground the coolant sensor probe (2) as shown in the illustration. 
• The wire contact should not be loose.Make sure a good contact is made. Once this wiring connections are done.Now with the key on and the engine off, observe the low coolant light for at least 15 seconds.

          A) If the Light is still on - Replace the low coolant sensor and re-check system operation.
          B) But if the Light is out - Proceed to Next Step.

• Try cleaning the sensor.For that you can use a small wire brush or emery cloth, polish the low coolant level sensor probe to remove any film or oxidation. 
• A indication of good sensor is that the probe should be a bright brass color when finished. Use Brake Parts Cleaner to flush removed deposits from the low coolant sensor probe. Re-install the low coolant sensor into the vehicle and proceed to Next Step.

• Now before re-installing the same old coolant sensor.Without forget clean the coolant system of the car. And for that you have to flush the cooling system and install new DEX-COOL(R) mixture as outlined in the SI. 
• Without forget check the vehicle's warranty history to determine if any engine gasket had recently been changed. If there has not been a recent gasket replacement, locate and repair the source of the engine oil contamination.
• In most of such cases,the low coolant level light comes on due to engine oil getting collected and contaminated on vehicles sensors and other parts.

In case if the coolant level sensor is checked to be faulty,then please go for branded part,instead of cheap non branded parts.
The non-branded aftermarket parts are not bad parts,but there performance is very low/less as compared to genuine/original branded parts.

These details will help.
Thanks.

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2005 Ford Excrusion: Front A/C will not turn ON

Air-conditioner will not turn on

The vehicle is ford Excursion,rear A/c turns ON,but front A/c will not turn ON.

In such cases first inspect the fuses in the fuse box.The fuses are mostly the common possibility to get shorted in such cases.
But if All fuses checked ok,then continue further troubleshooting.

These types of problem are previously noticed and seen at out car garage.On that garage repair experience,i will share the possibility of that cases here too.

The details are as follows:----


If fuses are checked ok,then in most of such cases the problem is probably the bad ac control head (the part in the dash).
On such cases to confirm the problem , you need to do is remove it and check if you have power and ground at the connectors going to it.
As per 2005 Ford excursion wiring,you have to check the white/violet and the light blue/black wire with the key on for power. You should have ground to the two black wires. If all is good the control head is bad. This is a common failure on these trucks.

HOW TO REMOVE CONTROL HEAD OUT?

The procedure is simple,.

First of all you have to  remove the plastic panel that covers the dash. For that just tilt the wheel down and pull it loose. It snaps in. Once unsnapped disconnect any electrical connectors going to it and put it aside. You will notice 4 simple screws.Now take the 4 screws holding in the ac control loose and remove it. Now disconnect the wires and check them as stated in the above mentioned method.

These details will help.
Thanks.

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CARS: Working of tire pressure monitoring system

How Exactly the Tire Pressure Monitoring System ( TPMS) Works on Ford Vehicles.

TPMS Working on Ford Vehicles.


The Basic Details Are As Follows:-----

The tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS)  is to monitors the air pressure of all 4 tires.
This System is mostly seen in latest model newly manufactured vehicles.
This complete system works and gets operated by frequency signals.
The wheel-mounted tire pressure sensors transmit the radio frequency signals.This signals go to the smart junction box, also known as SJB. TPMS functionality is integral to the SJB.
These transmissions signal report are sent approximately every 60 seconds when the vehicle speed exceeds 32 km/h (20 mph).
The purpose of he TPMS is to compare each tire pressure sensor transmission against a low-pressure limit. If it has been determined that the tire pressure has fallen below this limit, the SJB comes in action and starts its role of communicating this detail to the vehicle communication bus and that passes to the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster then illuminates the TPMS indicator and displays the appropriate message(s) in the message center (if equipped).

NOTE:---- For vehicles with different front and rear tire pressures (such as the Ford E-Series and certain Ford F-Series), the tire pressure sensors must be trained following a tire rotation. Failure to train the sensors will cause the TPMS indicator to illuminate.

For vehicles with the same tire pressures for front and rear tires, tire rotation will not affect the system.It functions as mentioned in the procedure above.

These details will help.
Thanks.

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