Technical Car Experts Answers everything you need: dodge charging system test

Random Electrical Malfunction on Mitsubishi

POSSIBILITIES:---
EITHER ITS ISSUE WITH BATTERY OR CHARGING SYSTEM(ALTERNATOR) OR ITS FAULTY IGNITION SWITCH.

The problem noticed like ...............

while driving , the radio goes out, the heat/AC fan stops, the headlights and dash lights dim and the dash warning lights come on then go off then it all works again.

These problems are random and not permanent,someday all will work properly and suddenly next day all problem returns.

Troubleshooting :------------

First of all in such cases please notice that, while driving, does any warning lights come on when the rest of the problems are not occurring? Specifically the Brake, Battery, or ABS lights?

Do you have any battery related issues at all?
How old is the battery?
When was battery last time replaced?

IF the battery is very old,then it has to be replaced.Batteries when get old it looses its capacity to hold the charge and voltage drops.Due to these certain malfunction issues occurs.

BUT,if there is no such warning lights coming up on dash and battery is very much new and holding its charge properly then...............

FURTHER Troubleshooting:---------

AS its mentioned that electrical system gets random malfunction,like radio getting off or cutting off,A/C suddenly stops working,Headlights getting dim etc etc.

As per our garage repair experience, the problem indicates towards a faulty ignition switch.

I WILL EXPLAIN HOW?

The complete issue is related to random power drop.

The ignition switches in these( Mitsubishi) cars are notorious for failure and can have identical symptoms to those you describe.

When the contacts become loose or burnt inside the ignition switch, it can cause random power drops. When these power drops occur, the most notable that people identify are the AC and radio cutting out. If the drop occurs for more than a split second, it becomes nearly the same as the key being turned off, just with the engine typically remaining running. Because of this, you will often notice warning lights on the dash and even dimming of interior and exterior lighting as the charging current cuts out with it and the lighting drops to 12V (from 14V normally).

NOW these concept changes if the brake/battery or ABS lights were consistently occurring prior. The reason for this is if the alternator is failing, you will often see these lights occur just prior to a circuit failure event like those you are experiencing.
The reasons we can fairly safely exclude this issue are that it is not consistent (sometimes the lights don't come on first), the radio is not typically affected, and the AC fan will change pitch but won't normally cut out entirely.

These confirms that the charging system OK and it just being the ignition switch like we normally see.

As per our garage repair experience these switches are extremely common to fail on this era Mitsubishi, and specifically on the Eclipse/Galant frequently (as opposed to Lancer/Outlander switch failures that more often make it difficult to start).

The ignition switch will cost you about $50 at any dealership.

FOR REPLACING IGNITION SWITCH:---

These switches are easy to repair.You will need some screw drivers.

You will have to remove the steering column.The steering column cover is held on by Philips screws going up through the bottom.
Now once the screws all removed, the top and bottom halves of the column covers will unsnap from each other.
Once the steering column is exposed, the ignition switch is on the left side of the column, directly behind the cylinder where the key goes it.
Now unplug the large six pin connector aiming forward.Just pull it back to unplug the connector.
The switch is held in with a screw and then it can be slid out and a new switch slid into it's place. The screw holding it in requires a very small screw driver to access; if you do not have one, you can remove the lower dash panel that is in the way, which is also held on with Philips screws.
This will gain you more access.

But if you have small screw driver,then no need to remove lower dash panel.

At this point you are going to want to replace that switch and re-evaluate from there.

Please note,that if you have any kind of battery related issues then ignition switch is not faulty.The battery related problems like,no start,engine cranks but no start,battery warning light remaining steady on dash,battery is very old,battery not charging,or battery discharging overnight, etc etc.
Knowing that your battery connections are all tight, and you've had no other battery issues then its related to issue with ignition switch.

Get it checked.

These details will help.
Thanks.

Users Who Viewed This Problem Also Viewed:

How to monitor Vehicles charging system?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-to-monitor-vehicles-charging-system.html

Car Alternator making noise?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/car-alternator-making-noise.html

Battery and brake Warning lights on Dash

http://alltypesofpartsreplacing.blogspot.com/2012/10/battery-and-brake-warning-lights-on-dash.html

2001 Chevrolet Tracker: Headlights and Dash lights Pulsating?

http://whoisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/06/2001-chevrolet-tracker-headlights-and.html

Before replacing alternator,its always advisable to test it.

The procedure to do this is as follows :----

TESTING

See Figures 1 and 2

Fig. Fig. 1: Charging system schematic for Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models

Fig. Fig. 2: Charging system schematic for Sebring coupe and Avenger models

Voltage Drop Test

See Figures 3 and 4

These tests will show the amount of voltage drop across the alternator output wire from the alternator output (B+) terminal to the battery positive post. They will also show the amount of voltage drop from the ground (-) terminal on the alternator.

A voltmeter with a 0-18 volt DC scale should be used for these tests. By repositioning the voltmeter test leads, the point of high resistance (voltage drop) can easily be found. Test points on the alternator can be reached by either removing the air cleaner housing or below by raising the vehicle.

Before starting the test, make sure the battery is in good condition and is fully charged. Check the conditions of the battery cables.

Start the engine, let it warm up to normal operating temperatures, then turn the engine OFF .

Connect an engine tachometer, following the manufacturer's directions.

Make sure the parking brake is fully engaged.

Start the engine, then place the blower on HIGH, and turn on the high beam headlamps and interior lamps.

Bring the engine speed up to 2,400 rpm and hold it there.

To test the ground (-) circuitry, perform the following:
1. Touch the negative lead of the voltmeter directly to the positive battery terminal.
2. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the B+ output terminal stud on the alternator (NOT the terminal mounting nut). The voltage should be no higher than 0.6 volts. If the voltage is higher than 0.6 volts, touch the test lead to the terminal mounting stud nut, and then to the wiring connector. If the voltage is now below 0.6 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connections at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed at each ground (-) connection in the circuit to locate the excessive resistance.

Fig. Fig. 3: Alternator terminals for the 2.0L and 2.4L engines

Fig. Fig. 4: Alternator terminals for the 2.5L engine

To test the positive (+) circuitry, perform the following:
1. Touch the positive lead of the voltmeter directly to the negative battery terminal.
2. Touch the negative lead of the voltmeter to the ground terminal stud on the alternator case (NOT the terminal mounting nut). The voltage should be no higher than 0.3 volts. If the voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, touch the test lead to the terminal mounting stud nut, and then to the wiring connector. If the voltage is now below 0.3 volts, look for dirty, loose or poor connections at this point. A voltage drop test may be performed at each positive (+) connection in the circuit to locate the excessive resistance.

This test can also be performed between the alternator case and the engine. If the test voltage is higher than 0.3 volts, check for corrosion at the alternator mounting points or loose alternator mounting.

Output Voltage Test

Determine if any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC'S) exist .

Before starting the test, make sure the battery is in good condition and is fully charged. Check the conditions of the battery cables.

Perform the voltage drop test to ensure clean and tight alternator/battery electrical connections.

Be sure the alternator drive belt is properly tensioned.

A volt/amp tester equipped with both a battery load control (carbon pile rheostat) and an inductive-type pickup clamp (ammeter probe) will be used for this test. Make sure to follows all directions supplied with the tester. If you are using a tester equipped with an inductive-type clamp, you don't have to remove the wiring from the alternator.

Start the engine and let it run until it reaches normal operating temperature, then shut the engine OFF .

Make sure all electrical accessories and lights are turned OFF.

Connect the volt/amp tester leads to the battery. Be sure the carbon pile rheostat control is in the OPEN or OFF position before connecting the leads.

Connect the inductive clamp (ammeter probe), following the instructions supplied with the test equipment.

If a volt/amp tester is not equipped with an engine tachometer, connect a separate tachometer to the engine.

Fully engage the parking brake.

Start the engine, then bring the engine speed up to 2,500 rpm.

WARNING

This load test must be performed within 15 seconds to prevent damage to the test equipment!

With the engine speed held at 2,500 rpm, slowly adjust the rheostat control (load) on the tester to get the highest amperage reading. Do not let the voltage drop below 12 volts. Record the reading.

On certain brands of test equipment, this load will be applied automatically. Be sure to read the operating manual supplied with the test equipment before performing the test.

The ammeter reading must meet the minimum test amps specification of 75 amps.

Rotate the load control to the OFF position.

Continue holding the engine speed at 2,500 rpm. If the EVR circuitry is OK, the amperage should drop below 15-20 amps. With all of the electrical accessories and vehicle lighting off, this could take several minutes of engine operation.